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passionne

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Everything posted by passionne

  1. I played Far Cry with and without ATI Tool (removed from the computer) : with, I have the keyboard lag, without, this problem disappears. That confirms the previous tests with other games. All the ATI Tool releases cause his problem : 0.25beta14, 0.25beta16r8, 0.26. I thank every people who helped me in this thread.
  2. No, I did not use Driver Cleaner. I must reinstall Windows x64 because of a bug caused by Catalyst : I removed the 6.11 release (Delete programs) but I cannot reinstall the driver any longer. But if I use Driver Cleaner in Safe Mode in order to remove all the remaining Catalyst components, how to do : my PC has dual-boot, Windows x64 and Windows XP SP2 : how to choose safe mode in Windows x64 only ?
  3. I followed your advice : I tried Open GL games, in particular Doom III and Chronicles of Riddick. On Doom III, there was not any problem. And on Chronicles of Riddick, I encountered stutter, probably caused by Catalyst driver. Before changing the Catalyst release, I removed ATI Tool from my computer, the overclocking utility for ATI cards. I tested Half Life 2, Splinter Cell Chaos Theory (not Far Cry because of a Catalyst problem on Windows x64) and the problem does not appear at all whereas these 2 games were affected before. I will go on testing with other FPS, in particular Far Cry, when I will have reinstalled Windows x64. And I will confirm in this thread if it was the cause. Thanks for your help.
  4. Maybe a dumb question but you do have DirectX 9c installed? Yes, DirectX 9.0c is already installed. With the USB KB you could try enableing USB keyboard support in the BIOS (although this should not have affected the PS2 keyboard.) No effect. When you Flashed the Bios did you follow the DFI guide and clear the CMOS and load optimized defaults? (you'll need to search for the CMOS Clear guide) I don't remember but I cleared CMOS yesterday in order to be sure, by following the Clear CMOS guide. No effect. Does it continue to move forward in Farcry if you just tap the W key or only if you hold it down for a time and then release? Yes, the problem occurs in both the cases : if I tap or hold it down the movement keys, the problem sometimes appears. I would try putting all the GFX settings to their lowest possible settings including resolution and see if it is a lag in the display or the keyboard input. No effect by lowering the display resolution.
  5. Thanks for your feedback. I fear that it is a hardware-related problem. But if you find a solution, may you report it in this thread, please ? Thanks.
  6. Hello, When I play first person shooters (Far Cry, Doom 3, FEAR, Splinter Cell Chaos Theory, Max Payne 2...), the following phenomenon occurs : when I stop pressing a movement key (W, S, A or D), sometimes, the character keeps on going in the direction during a few seconds : for instance, when I press W, the character goes forward then when I stop pressing this key, it goes forward a few seconds before stopping. It is quite annoying. What I did to solve this problem : - changed the wired PS/2 keyboard (Logitech) by another one. - changed the PS/2 wired keyboard by another one via USB. - flashed the motherboard bios (0704-2 beta, 0510-3) - in Notepad, I pressed the W, S, A, D keys to see if the same phenomenon encountered in the games, occurs. No : when I stop pressing one of these keys, it immediately stops being pressed on the screen. - changed the Nvidia driver (6.66 to 6.86). - I did not reinstall Windows XP SP2 but I installed Windows XP 64 bits and Far Cry x64 and I have the same problem : so, it does not seem a OS-related problem. In non-FPS games (simulations, RPG, RTS), I don't encounter this problem. Any idea ? Indeed, I wonder if the cause could be a hardware failure. Thanks for your feedback.
  7. I already have 4 SATA drives connected to the 4 motherboard ports. And I changed spread spectrum for SATA in bios (chipset parameters) but no result.
  8. Hello, I tried to overclock 2 CPUs, 1 Opteron 148 and 1 San Diego 4000+. Both of them were cooled with the MAch II GT device at -60°C. For the Opteron, I had the following problem : when I increase the FSB, the system boots and freezes a few seconds after the boot. When I test the stability with Prime 95 or OCCT, there is no more system freeze. But when I stop burning the CPU, the system freezes again a few seconds later. Another symptom is that I cannot increase the FSB after a limit, whereas the system is fully stable at this frequency (11x285 Mhz). With all my previous processors, I reached the maximum frequency when the system was instable (Prime 95 and OCCT). Before concluding that the cold bug was the cause, I did many tests : - use of a RAM divider in order not to be limited by the RAM : RAM always worked at about 200 Mhz. - DFI bios flash from 6/23-3 to 7/04-2BTA. - RAM, LDT, chipset, CPU voltages increase. - chipset parameters changes : errata enhancement 123, 94. - the maximum FSB of the motherboard is 322 Mhz (tested with the Opteron on air). - test of the RAM stability with Memtest 1.55 : no errors during 10 hours. - test of CPU stability with Prime 95 and OCCT during 5 hours : no errors. Finally, I have just sold it and bought an AMD San Diego 4000+. I tried to overclock it today and the same phenomenon occurs : I am stuck at FSB = 227 Mhz, I cannot boot, and under 227 Mhz, I manage to boot but the system freezes a few seconds later, exactly like for the Opteron. I changed the voltages, used a RAM divider to make the RAM function at 200 Mhz without any success. Just after the DFI nF4 logo, there is the screen which displays a few information about the configuration : I noticed that "memory controller" is marked "NA" for both of the CPUs. So my conclusion is that the memory controllers of the Opteron and of my 4000+ do not support the extreme cold. What is your opinion ? For the Opteron, I was aware of the cold bug widespread for this type of CPU. But for the San Diego 4000+, I am really amazed : I had a San Diego 3700+ last year and I did not suffer form cold bug. So for this 4000+, is my problem caused by the extreme cold ? I did not test it on air and now that the Mach II GT head is mounted, I don't want to remove it since I must to remove all my stuff. Thanks for your feedback.
  9. I allude to 120 mm fans with LEDs, I read this figure somewhere, I don't remember which site anymore.
  10. 3 A are given for 120 mm fans. We don't know what his fans diameters are. And you are right, the 12 V and 5 V lines power the fans. So 3 A is spread one these 2 lines. But really, 11 fans draw much power. The best would be to appraise the overall systme power with the aforementioned tool and to test the boot without any fans.
  11. There are 2 methods : The simplest one : http://www.jackypc.com/index2.php3?rub=articles&num=12 Or : http://www.jackypc.com/index2.php3?rub=articles&num=44 I applied the first one. The drawback is that I must swich on and off the 2 power supplies but the installation is really easy.
  12. First, he must evaluate his power nees with this tool : http://www.extreme.outervision.com/index.jsp Secondly, the fans consumes a huge power, about 3 A each on the 12 V line when turning at the maximum speed. So 33 A on the 12 V line with the 11 fans only ! For sure, the PC P&C 510 is not powerful enough.
  13. What maximum voltage did you apply on your CPU ? Indeed, if the voltage was too high, the processor degrades itself very rapidly : it is no longer stable to highest frequencies and the performance is decreased when you test it with benchmarks. I noticed that phenomenon with my previous 3700+ San Diego : overcloekd to 3.2 Ghz at 1.85 V, it was no longer stable at this frequency a few days ago and its benchmark performance was lower when I ran it at 3150 Mhz, after applying 1.85 V.
  14. I had the same problem with an OCZ Powerstream 600 W : I was unable to launch games as soon as SLI was enabled. All my problems were solved as soon as I bought another power supply : the OCZ powers the motherboard, the 2 graphic cards and the other one (LC 550 W) all the stuff (4 HDDs, floppy drive, DVD drive, 6 neons, 4 tri-LEDs, 3 x 120 mm fans, 2 x 92 mm fans). Be careful if you plan buying the PC Power & Cooling 850 W, it is not compliant with the DFI nF4 motherboards. That is why I preferred having 2 power supplies. And this solution is far cheaper than a big one !
  15. I bouight it in overclockers.co.uk but they specified on their website to contact the manufacturer directly.
  16. Hello, I tried to follow the procedure on the DFI website to send a RMA request (France/support/RMA request) but after filling all the fields, I obtain the following error : "Step 2 URL error". I think that it is a website bug. But in this case, I don't know how to send a RMA request. May someone help me ? Thanks.
  17. OK, thank you for people who helped me. Unfortuntely, my DFI motherboard and the OCZ power supply were both damaged : when I wanted to remove the motherboard from the case, the 2 12 V pins where burnt on the motherboard and on the power supply. So I bought another motherboard and I will RMA the 2 components to DFI and OCZ.
  18. Unfortunately, I have not another CPU. But I can test 1 graphic card at a time.
  19. Hello, Since yesterday, the PC does not work any longer. The symptoms : While I burnt the 2 AMD cores (the first one : Toast, high priority and the second one : Prime 95, blend). I booted it again, burnt it again with the same tools during half an hour without any problems then, after a crash due to the burn, the PC restarted, booted and a few seconds after the boot, the PC shut down. Strange... I restart it, burn again and shut down again. And this time, it does not restart. Then, I wait for 10 minutes before switching it on : this time, the boot sequence begins : graphic cards detection, DFI Lan Party screen, RAID screen, system information, backup CMOS message and when Windows starts being loaded, the PC shuts down and does not restart. Trials : - I waited for more 10 minutes before switching it on. But no boot, the screen remains black : the HDD red light and the power blue light located on the PC tower remain lit. On the motherboard, all the LED lights are on : "DRAM power LED", "Standby power LED" and the 4 red lights in the lower corner on the left ( VGA, , DRAM, CPU and start-up). But these 4 red lights do not light progressively, all of them switch on in the same time, which is not normal. I never heard error beeps and I checked the speaker jumper. - Consequently, I cleared CMOS during 10 then 30 minutes, after the power cable unplug. - I disconnected the 24 pin cable plugged in the motherboard and plugged it 1 minute later. - I removed the motherboard battery and cleared CMOS for 1 hour. - I changed the motherboard battery. - I measured the 5V and 12 V delivered by the 2 power supplies, with a voltmeter. They are OK. The OCZ Powerstream 600 W powers the motherboard, the 2 graphic cards and the floppy disk. And the LC 6550 powers all the other stuff (HDD, lights, neons, Pioneer writer, Thermaltake Hardcano). They start independently. - I changed the RAM : 2x512 MB OCZ PC4800 then 2x1 GB OCZ PC4000 EB. - I dismounted the Mach II GT head to replace it by the original AMD heatsink. Indeed, I noticed a strange symptom : normally, the PC is switched on when the Mach II GT head temperature is -40 °C. And now, the lights switch on when 0°C is reached. That is why I suspect a condensation problem which created a short-circuit on the motherboard. The result : the HDD red light and the power blue light keep being lit, all the motherboard lights are on and no boot at all, even the graphic cards screen does not appear. And the parameters are the following : f CPU= 286x10.5 Mhz=3003 Mhz f RAM=250 Mhz V CPU=1.55 V V RAM=2.7 V V chipset=1.7 V (watercooled) V LDT=1.4 V T CPU=-24°C T RAM=25-27 °C T PWM IC= 43-46 °C (watercooled : waterblock on the power stage, right to the CPU) T RAD CPU=30 °C (heatsinks, right to the CPU). T OCZ 600 W=30 °C All these parameters are normal. So, finally, is my DFI motherboard dead ? Thanks for your feedback.
  20. Before loading a new driver (graphic, chipset), I always backup my whole system with a tool like Acronis True Image. Thus, if there are problems, I backup my whole system in 15 minutes. It is a solution to protect oneself against problems you encountered.
  21. Finally, I found the solution : I deleted all the entries related to USB drivers in the device manager. Then, in the control panel, I selected "add hardware". And Windows included both the "standard OpenHCD USB Host Controller " for USB 1.1 and "Standard Enhanced PCI to USB host controller" for USB 2.0. And when I connect a USB key, I no longer have the message, informing me that the device works at USB 1.1 bandwidth instead of USB 2.0 one. I hope that that will help other people. Thanks for your help nevertheless.
  22. The PC did not find any drivers, even if I specify the folder in which the USB 2.0 drivers are located, on the original nf4 CD.
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