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Everything posted by demonR6

  1. Is it fuzzy across the monitor or just in certain places? I had a BFG 8800 GTS for about two weeks and among the myriad of problems I was experiencing, my flat panel was fuzzy. The kicker is that it was only a ribbon from top to bottom and was spaced equally every two or so inches. The blurry area was about an inch thick all the way across. The problem did not exist on the 21" crt though.
  2. I had a BFG 8800 GTS and had my own issues as well. On a fresh install of Windows XP Pro with all of the latest drivers and the latest Nvidia drivers, I would get really weird lockups and what not. Particularly in one game I cannot mention due to an NDA agreement, the entire screen gets dark with the exception of the edges which have an overbloom which makes it bleached out. Sort of like the picture you see for the movie The Ring. Really freaky if you as me. It is not so dark that it is unplayable, but it sucks because it make the game so crappy looking. I removed the drivers and used Driver Cleaner and then loaded the oem drivers and same problem. During my fit of insanity I did a fresh install of Windows.. nothing. Then out of sheer frustration I took the card back and got another.. same problem. Out of frustration I cleaned all the drivers yet again and threw in my old x800 GTO2 that is modded to an x850 and lo and behold, no problem. It has to be the absolutely . Nvidia drivers for the 8800, absolutely no question about it. I had the problem I mentioned above plus hard lockups, BSOD's and a myriad of other errors in the two weeks I was using that card. I've been beta testing the game in question since early last year and never had an issue and once I slapped that card in it was evident the video drivers are not right. I asked other individuals I know who have other gen Nvidia cards and they do not experience the issues I was having.
  3. I was looking for some adivce on a new hard drive. My computer is primarily used for gaming, occasionally I listen to mp3s and browse the web. Currently I have the SATA drive listed in my sig. I am only using 40% of my drive if that. I keep it clean, using Diskeeper for the constant defrag, Registry Mechanic as well on a weekly basis. More or less it is as clean and efficient as it can get. On that end I was considering another faster drive to run the OS and games. I can stick with a newer SATA drive with an 8m cache or I was considering a 74GB Raptor. I am aware of the newer generation, mack daddy 150GB Raptor but I don't know if that would be overkill at this juncture. I only have two or three games loaded ever so it is not a question of me having fifty plus games and a load of crap littering my drive. If anyone would offer a hand and some suggestions I would appreciate it much.
  4. I love my G.Skill ram.. quite possibly the best I have ever messed around with. When I was setting this board up and testing the ram to see where it floored at, I was in the 320 range. I was limited by the CPU so I quit pushing it. I would not hesitate to buy G.Skill on my next build.
  5. I never did a fresh install after upgrading from the 3000+ > 3500+ > FX-55. I simply dropped it in and reset the bios.
  6. ahhh and that is why I always suggest a non-destructive Windows install whenever possible. Sorry to hear that happened. I know it has happened a couple of times to me and in one case it killed a 160GB drive full of dj mixes I had. (notice the use of the word had)
  7. I can empathize with you.. when sh!t breaks down it usually is a stunner with me. For no reason mine crapped out yesterday and I spent most of the day today tearing it down and putting it back together piece by piece like I did when I first built it. As mentioned before, I would definitely follow the instructions for the initial build and step through it piece by piece until you find the culprit. Have you had the system stable at all stock settings after clearing the CMOS and a fresh install of Windoze? I would go for the basics if I were you and start eliminating problems.
  8. 20 passes each stick on tests 5 & 8 with no errors in slot 1. I am now running both sticks in the orange slots memtest 5 with no errors so far at 10 passes.
  9. Will do.. thanks! What a way to spend Sunday morning. Hopefully I can get this done before football! Will post back results.
  10. I encountered a problem yesterday where the computer would not boot. I was getting power up, fans, hard drive were all spooling up and the LEDS all cycled through and the remaining 1 was lit up. No video though so I do not know if it was posting. I tore down the system completely starting from scratch.. I have my system watercooled so I was not able to do it by the book but even then with only the video card, the CPU and one stick of ram in the farthest orange slot it boots. I swapped out ram to make sure the second stick was fine and again it boots. On the next attempt I try both sticks and it hangs on the boot screen. I swap the ram around and make another attempt, nothing. Next I swap out the ram for the two yellow slots and repeat procedure, it boots. I am guessing that somehow the slot closest to the CPU is fried as that is the one that is giving me trouble? I want to put it back together and make sure nothing else is borked. Is it okay to run the ram in the yellow slots? I know since day one we have been told that the orange slots is what we need to run the ram in. I don't know if I am better off buying a new board at this point. I just can't figure out why it died for no reason. I have never had any issues and the board has always been rock solid. Comments, concerns, complaints or suggestions are appreciated.
  11. Grats! 2.9 is not a shabby number.. Did you lower the HTT multi like you said you were going to do?
  12. On the FX-55 I am running it at 245*12 LDT4 @1.4V. My LDT is 1.3, chipset is 1.6 and my DRAM is 2.7V. Give that a shot and see if you are stable. DRAM Configuration Settings: DRAM Frequency Set - 200=RAM/FSB:01/01 Command Per Clock (CPC) - Enable CAS Latency Control (Tcl) - 3.0 RAS# to CAS# delay (Trcd) - 04 Bus Clocks Min RAS# active time (Tras) - 08 Bus Clocks Row precharge time (Trp) - 03 Bus Clocks Row Cycle time (Trc) - 07 Bus Clocks Row refresh cyc time (Trfc) - 16 Row to Row delay (Trrd) - 02 Bus Clocks Write recovery time (Twr) - 02 Bus Clocks Write to Read delay (Twtr) - 02 Bus Clocks Read to Write delay (Trwt) - 03 Bus Clocks Refresh Period (Tref) - 3120 Cycles DRAM Bank Interleave - Enabled DQS Skew Control - Auto DQS Skew Value - 0 DRAM Drive Strength - Auto DRAM Data Drive Strength - Auto Max Async Latency - 8.0 DRAM Response Time - Fast Read Preamble Time - Auto IdleCycle Limit - 128 Cycles Dynamic Counter - Disable R/W Queue Bypass - 16 x Bypass Max - 04 x 32 Byte Granularity - Disable(4 Bursts)
  13. Hi guys, a couple of watercooling items I no longer need or have use for that maybe someone can use. Prices do not include shipping, will use USPS and only to lower 48. Non CC PayPal. - Thermaltake AquaBay M3 Reservoir and Water Level Indicator - bought to replace my Corsair BayRes but did not work out because I had to use ghetto fab it to make it work with my hoses and it ended up causing more restrictive flow which in turn made my temps go up a few degrees. It was installed and run in the system for about an hour before I realized it did me absolutely no good to have this in my system. $25 http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/ind...roducts_id=3542 SOLD - Corsair BayRes - about a year old, wanted to upgrade for something different and a bit larger, somehow ended up with the AquaBay reservoir which wasn't larger.. just looked nicer. The item below is the Swiftech version but same part, just rebranded. $5 http://www.swiftnets.com/products/MCRES-525.asp Thanks for looking.
  14. Remember that even though you have the best components, your OC may not be the same as someone out there with stellar clocks on the same exact gear. I have had good luck with my G.Skill ram and I had some very good Muskin ram as well. I am not up to speed on that model PSU but I have an OCZ Powerstream 520W and I swear by it, look in my sig at all the crap it runs. Also take into consideration that being a gaming rig, your video will weigh in heavily as opposed to your CPU. I would focus on video, ram then CPU. By the way I have been on H20 for almost two years and have not had a single issue. g/l
  15. You have a monitor mentioned in your post but no mention of what it is or how much you are selling it for.. just that it is six to nine weeks old. If you intend to sell it, you may want to expand on that. Just thought I would offer a suggestion to help you out.
  16. Not a bad price for the FX-55 and it is capable of 3GHz with the right components.
  17. Just picked up this proc from someone who went Conroe. Damn it's a nice clocker. I simply dropped it in place of the 3500+ and changed the bios to a conservative number just to make sure it would not take a dump with my memory settings. I really did not want to wipe all my settings and start over, call me lazy but it worked. After I booted it and checked out the temps and stability, I rebooted and cranked up the fsb and the multi. I was on it for about three hours at 240*12 @ 1.48V and it was fine. Today after getting home from work I decided to crank it up some more, I also lowered the volts to see what I could get away with. It has been running since 6pm at 245*12 @ 1.39V again without problems. I have not primed it but I did give it my own stress test.. I had Winamp going with the visuals in windowed on my second screen along with an IE window and Ventrilo running as well. On the primary screen I was playing a game which I am currently participating in beta, I had everything set to HIGH and ran it in windowed mode as well. Damn thing runs rock solid for how long now.. about six hours. The whole time I was playing and alternating between IE checking mail, changing stations on Winamp etc. Idle temps are 35C and on load I hit 39C but that is expected from an FX processor by what I have read. I am expecting a new reservoir, tubing and ncf to update my cooling loop so once that is complete I will try for some more from it. I am not expecting a whole lot more but the previous owner said he had it on phase and it should be able to handle 3.0 or more easy. I could not resist picking this up as it was a good price considering what it is. Now to upgrade the video..
  18. That is a nice OC from a 3000+.. especially if you are not running it on H20. I would not want that to be a 24/7 rig unless you don't mind that CPU taking a dump prematurely.
  19. It should not be that hard though. Looks like you have decent gear although I am not up to speed on that PSU. I just picked up a second hand FX-55 today and dropped it in place of my 3500+ and I am now currently at 2.882 (240x10) @ 1.42V. I am using all the gear in my sig, just swapped out CPUs. I need to sort out the temps though because right off the bat the idle temps are around 36C. I have already reseated the wb three times thinking that was the problem but no joy. Off to research and see if I can find out why the high temps. On the 3500+ I was idling at 32C. Maybe the Smartguardian is flakey with the new CPU? *shrug* Either way, like I said, you should be able to get decent clocks from it.
  20. Rebates are a load of horseshit if you ask me.. if you make claims you will give XYZ cashback for buying crap from a merchant or a product, don't drag your feet in the mud for eight months before squaring up with the customers you lured into buying your product or at your store.
  21. Take note of the comments.. it will cost about the same as a good mobile phone. To you that may be a $39.99 Nokia where as to someone else that may mean a $2500 gold plated Motorola satellite capable phone.
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