magg

I was looking through SpeedFan just now, and went into the S.M.A.R.T. tab to check out my hard drives [Hitachi 7K250 160GB SATA, two of them, non-RAID], and I noticed that there was a difference between the two in terms of what showed up. On my main HD [C:], there's an option that shows Reallocated Sector Count, and the values are 100 / 100 / 5, titled Value, Worst, and Warn, respectively. But when I look at the secondary HD [D:], it shows up as 1 / 1 / 5. And instead of having the "OK" symbol next to it, I get a warning symbol. Does anybody know what this is and how I can fix it? Also, when I look through 3dmark05's system information, it shows the hard drives listed as IDE. Is this an incorrect reading? Or is my system screwed up?

Define extras, what kind of other crap comes with it. Personally, I could care less, but my buddy may want to know.

Picking one of these up for my buddy's rig that he's building with his student loans [ :nod: ] and I couldn't tell the difference aside from what looks like more accessories? Anybody feel like clarifying for me? Thanks. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16813136151 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16813136157

The only way you can really tell is if you bench them both. Your board definately has the options for both types of RAM, so just try them both out and see which one works best for you. Personally, I use TCCD on my 3000+ Winchester. When you have chips like this with lower multi's, the FSB has to be higher in order to get some decent clocks. Therefore, if you want to keep your stuff running 1:1, then you have to use TCCD/TCC5 in order to keep the clocks up. I mean, it's possible to get some UTT / *H-5 based RAM with some high clocks, but it's not likely. So, with your 3200+, especially since it's a Venice and hopefully a decent stepping, you should be able to get a decent OC by upping the FSB and leaving the multi at 10. I personally don't like using dividers, so my recommendation would be to use TCCD and run it up 1:1. But, as I said, never know until you try Good luck.

Ok, thanks. Because the tREF that I was running was still just the accepted value from the 3/10P BIOS [3120 IIRC?] I have much to learn to become a memory guru, especially with this board, heh. Too many damn options

RMA it. It'd be easier than you trying to fix it, effing it up, and then voiding your warranty. Shoot a PM to Angry or RG and see if maybe they could do something for you.

Is that equation good for any HTT that you have? I'd like to try that, that may explain why my XBL's can't hit 300HTT stable... pisses me off.

Panaflo 92mm are still the best in terms of price / performance ratio. Here's the spec list for their 92mm's: L1A - 42CFM @ 27dBA M1A - 48CFM @ 30dBA H1B - 56CFM @ 35dBA U1A - 68CFM @ 43dBA Any one of those would be great. I use the M1A on my XP-90 [regular aluminum], OC'd to my sig settings, and I hit these temps: Idle [room temp 77F] - 29/30C Load [room temp 77F] - 40C Check www.sidewindercomputers.com for a large selection of Panaflo fans. Hope this helps

They actually recommend you to not take that outer ring off, just the inside thermal pad if anything. It's supposed to help level out the fan or something, IIRC.

I don't think anything that was previously TCCD is anymore...it's all going to TCC5 since Samsung discontinued the production of those chips. According to Steve @ OCZ though, they are pretty much identical chips, which is why even though the new Plat. Rev. 2's use the TCC5, they didn't create a new revision number for them because the chips are almost identical. I would agree with the XBL's though, they're cheaper than the GSkill's and still clock very very well.

The size of a grain of rice. Put it in the middle of the chip and let the pressure and weight of the heatsink spread out the paste. Follow these exactly: http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_...ctions_big2.htm

That's very high, I wouldn't run that 24/7. 1.65V is the highest I'd do on air period, with 1.6V being 24/7. @Geeman: jesus h. christ what vCore did you put through that, like 2V? :eek:

Yes, it's fantabulous. I really liked it, and it made up for the other two movies not being as great...would pay to see it again, and that's saying something

@ProfessorChaos: Holy crap, how much did that fan setup cost you? Panaflo's aren't that cheap :eek:

I don't know if you're planning on completely sticking with Danger Den, but if not, then here's what I would suggest. As for the CPU block, the MCW-6002 from Swiftech is generally considered to be the best ATM. Chipset blocks aren't really that necessary, as it's more of a hassle and only decent air cooling is needed for those. For the GPU, the Maze4 is a good choice for the rig. As for the radiator, I wouldn't waste your money on anything less than 120MM, or for that matter a BIX. Get yourself a heatercore [120x2 fans] as they are cheaper and cool a lot better than radiators [look at www.VoyeurMods.com for pre-modded ones]. 1/2 ID tubing is good, reservoir isn't needed if you're getting a T-Line / Fillport, so pick one or the other. That DD pump is ok, but I'd prefer the MCP655 from Swiftech or an Eheim 1250, although the DD pump is still decent. Yeah, that'd be my decision

Wouldn't that mean it's stuck detecting the RAM? Cuz once it has 3 lights lit, that means it's already detected the CPU? Or am I one step ahead...

It depends on where you buy from. If you buy your XP-90 from Jab-tech [which the OEM is on sale for $24.99 RIGHT NOW!!], they will include the fan tail with your fan. You have a couple choices. L1A = 42CFM @ 27dBA M1A = 48CFM @ 30dBA [my choice] H1A = 56CFM @ 35dBA U1A = 68CFM @ 43dBA I choose the medium M1A fan, quiet but still does the jobs, my load temps are never above 40C with Prime, OCCT, games, whatever, with the current OC I have in my sig. I would say choose that one, as it works very well as long as ambient is kept reasonable and you have good case airflow. www.sidewindercomputers.com is another good place to buy Panaflo's if you already have the XP-90 ordered. That site also includes the fan tail.

Fortron is the one I'd choose out of those, it's pretty good, but why would you skimp on the most important part of the system? Get a PowerStream if you can afford it, it won't let you down.

Ahh, that's unfortunate. Nice case though, must have cost you a pretty penny. Good luck with your tests, when you post results we'll see what we can do

I took the stock HSF from my 3000+ Winchester and picked up some velcro strips from the store as well as the ones that came w/ my CCFL kit. I stuck one side of the velcro to the side of the fan, and the other side to my case [right above the RAM] and then stuck the fan to the side of the case so it hangs out horizontally over my RAM. Now, the fan blows air directly on the top module, and a little bit on the second module, but the XP-90 pretty much takes care of that one. For security, I zip-tied it to my 24-pin since the PSU is right above it, just in case the velcro starts to fail [which I doubt, velcro doesn't really loose its strength if it's latched once and not continuously pulled off and on].

Another quick note, which I'm pretty sure you already know, but if the IDE HD's are used only for storage and you have a SATA as your main OS HD, make sure you set that as primary in the BIOS and the other IDE's as secondary, so it knows to look for the SATA for the OS. And you're welcome

Always put your hard drives on IDE1, and opticals and other things on IDE2. As far as which to put for master/slave, for opticals it doesn't really matter. For your hard drives, always put the one w/ the OS as your master. If neither of the hard drives are one with an OS [ex: used solely for storage], then that also doesn't really matter which one is master or slave.

Use the little jumper clamps that came w/ the mobo. A black thing about the size of your palm, shaped kind of like a diamond, with two little silver prongs at one end. Pull them off with that, and then push them down on the second set of pins.

Try this...worked for me, and quite a few other people too. http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9153

Take the jumpers that are on the board between your PCIe slots, and move each set of jumpers down to the bottom row of pins. This will enable SLi mode. Then just put your GFX card in the second slot, and it will run at PCIe 8x. .............. ----------- .............. ----------- Should look like that when your done, the periods being the pins and the dashes being the jumpers.