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About magg

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  1. I was looking through SpeedFan just now, and went into the S.M.A.R.T. tab to check out my hard drives [Hitachi 7K250 160GB SATA, two of them, non-RAID], and I noticed that there was a difference between the two in terms of what showed up. On my main HD [C:], there's an option that shows Reallocated Sector Count, and the values are 100 / 100 / 5, titled Value, Worst, and Warn, respectively. But when I look at the secondary HD [D:], it shows up as 1 / 1 / 5. And instead of having the "OK" symbol next to it, I get a warning symbol. Does anybody know what this is and how I can fix it? Also, when I look through 3dmark05's system information, it shows the hard drives listed as IDE. Is this an incorrect reading? Or is my system screwed up?
  2. Define extras, what kind of other crap comes with it. Personally, I could care less, but my buddy may want to know.
  3. Picking one of these up for my buddy's rig that he's building with his student loans [ :nod: ] and I couldn't tell the difference aside from what looks like more accessories? Anybody feel like clarifying for me? Thanks. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16813136151 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16813136157
  4. The only way you can really tell is if you bench them both. Your board definately has the options for both types of RAM, so just try them both out and see which one works best for you. Personally, I use TCCD on my 3000+ Winchester. When you have chips like this with lower multi's, the FSB has to be higher in order to get some decent clocks. Therefore, if you want to keep your stuff running 1:1, then you have to use TCCD/TCC5 in order to keep the clocks up. I mean, it's possible to get some UTT / *H-5 based RAM with some high clocks, but it's not likely. So, with your 3200+, especially since it's a Venice and hopefully a decent stepping, you should be able to get a decent OC by upping the FSB and leaving the multi at 10. I personally don't like using dividers, so my recommendation would be to use TCCD and run it up 1:1. But, as I said, never know until you try Good luck.
  5. Ok, thanks. Because the tREF that I was running was still just the accepted value from the 3/10P BIOS [3120 IIRC?] I have much to learn to become a memory guru, especially with this board, heh. Too many damn options
  6. RMA it. It'd be easier than you trying to fix it, effing it up, and then voiding your warranty. Shoot a PM to Angry or RG and see if maybe they could do something for you.
  7. Is that equation good for any HTT that you have? I'd like to try that, that may explain why my XBL's can't hit 300HTT stable... pisses me off.
  8. Panaflo 92mm are still the best in terms of price / performance ratio. Here's the spec list for their 92mm's: L1A - 42CFM @ 27dBA M1A - 48CFM @ 30dBA H1B - 56CFM @ 35dBA U1A - 68CFM @ 43dBA Any one of those would be great. I use the M1A on my XP-90 [regular aluminum], OC'd to my sig settings, and I hit these temps: Idle [room temp 77F] - 29/30C Load [room temp 77F] - 40C Check www.sidewindercomputers.com for a large selection of Panaflo fans. Hope this helps
  9. They actually recommend you to not take that outer ring off, just the inside thermal pad if anything. It's supposed to help level out the fan or something, IIRC.
  10. I don't think anything that was previously TCCD is anymore...it's all going to TCC5 since Samsung discontinued the production of those chips. According to Steve @ OCZ though, they are pretty much identical chips, which is why even though the new Plat. Rev. 2's use the TCC5, they didn't create a new revision number for them because the chips are almost identical. I would agree with the XBL's though, they're cheaper than the GSkill's and still clock very very well.
  11. The size of a grain of rice. Put it in the middle of the chip and let the pressure and weight of the heatsink spread out the paste. Follow these exactly: http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_...ctions_big2.htm
  12. That's very high, I wouldn't run that 24/7. 1.65V is the highest I'd do on air period, with 1.6V being 24/7. @Geeman: jesus h. christ what vCore did you put through that, like 2V? :eek:
  13. Yes, it's fantabulous. I really liked it, and it made up for the other two movies not being as great...would pay to see it again, and that's saying something
  14. @ProfessorChaos: Holy crap, how much did that fan setup cost you? Panaflo's aren't that cheap :eek:
  15. I don't know if you're planning on completely sticking with Danger Den, but if not, then here's what I would suggest. As for the CPU block, the MCW-6002 from Swiftech is generally considered to be the best ATM. Chipset blocks aren't really that necessary, as it's more of a hassle and only decent air cooling is needed for those. For the GPU, the Maze4 is a good choice for the rig. As for the radiator, I wouldn't waste your money on anything less than 120MM, or for that matter a BIX. Get yourself a heatercore [120x2 fans] as they are cheaper and cool a lot better than radiators [look at www.VoyeurMods.com for pre-modded ones]. 1/2 ID tubing is good, reservoir isn't needed if you're getting a T-Line / Fillport, so pick one or the other. That DD pump is ok, but I'd prefer the MCP655 from Swiftech or an Eheim 1250, although the DD pump is still decent. Yeah, that'd be my decision
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