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Everything posted by Fonetik

  1. Finally got the hang of my SLI-DR. It's now running at toaster quality speeds! [bimg]http://www.wordhole.net/dfi_nf4/toaster1.jpg[/bimg] Please include the following info in my sig: DFI NF4 SLI-DR Athlon 64 3500+ 939 90nm Winchester @ 2500MHz 2x512MB Corsair CMX512-3200XLPT v1.2 @ DDR500 BFG GeForce 6800 GT OC 256 PCIE Western Digital 74GB Raptor II OCZ Modstream 520W PSU Aerocool Spiral Galaxies Full Tower Thanks!
  2. Maybe you have a bad power cable. If something in the wiring is shorting out then you could have a big issue. I would check the connector and make sure the pins aren't bent or loose. You're plugging the connector in the correct way, right? I've heard that the manual has it backwards with the 12V and 5V pins switched :eek: .
  3. The buffer size is transparent to the motherboard. That's totally internal to the HDD. As long as it says it's SATA you're good to go. The NF4 is supposed to work with NCQ. My WD Raptor has TCQ (similar, but no real benefit) and works fine.
  4. What were you doing when you got this error? I think you're misreading it and it is not an IP error. It just says that it will send your IP address to Microsoft for logging purposes. The info that the message gives you is pretty useless unless you can decode the hex numbers. In certain situations (3Dmark 2001 looping with Prime in backgroud after a few hours) I get these errors even though I am Prime and memtest stable for 6-8 hours. I'm 90% certain it is a memory issue though. I'm trying to track down exactly what setting is causing this. At the moment, I am thinking that it is a DRAM Drive Strength or CPU voltage issue.
  5. I haven't found a utility that shows the correct voltages on my board. NVmonitor is way off (0.600V CPU?!) and Smart Guardian shows my 12V rail as 11.41V. If I test this with a multimeter I get 11.94V under heavy load. So, as far as I've seen, none of the utilities are very accurate. As for Windows booting slowly and working fine once it does, I would look into your drivers. Maybe even try booting into safe mode once. Sometimes that clears things up. A defrag couldn't hurt, but it would have to be enormously fragmented to make that big of a difference. On a related note, you might consider running scandisk with free space/surface scan on to see if your drive has developed any bad sectors.
  6. I'm not sure where you heard this about AMD systems. I and many others are running at 2-2-2-5 but it will depend on your RAM. Also, note that the POST screen will actually report 2-2-2-5 as 2-2-5-2.
  7. I've had issues with Windows failing to update my CPU speed on my 3000+ laptop. Try using something like CPU-Z or AMD's CPU-ID. http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php http://www.amd.com/us-en/Processors/Techni...71_9706,00.html
  8. Sounds like you have Cool 'n Quiet enabled in the BIOS and the CPU is throttling down if it's at 803MHz. If you want to run at full speed all the time either disable it in the BIOS or change your power profile in XP to something like "Always On". If you want to overclock, I recommend disabling both CPU Throttling (turns down speed at high temps) and Cool 'n Quiet (turns down speed when there's little processor usage) in the BIOS. Memory speed seems correct for default values. Increasing voltages alone will not change the speeds. If you can run memtest86 and prime95 overnight without errors you probably can't get more stable.
  9. Press DEL during the Lanparty Logo to get into the BIOS. It just covers up the POST screen.
  10. I used needle-nosed pliers to push the little teeth in on the backside of the board and to push the posts through from back. The posts are a little oversized for the holes they are in, but they should push through with a little effort. Once the teeth and post are pushed in a bit, the teeth won't catch on the board and you can use a blunt edge of the pliers (even the rubberized handle so you don't scratch the board) to push on the bottom of the post. Use a thin layer of thermal paste just as you'd do on your CPU. Try not to make a mess and don't pull the outer, square foam shim off the cooler. You'll see it when you get the cooler off.
  11. Unlike incandescent lightbulbs, LEDs are polarity dependant. You need to plug the wire in the right way for it to light up, so I would try turning the cable around. On my SLI-DR I know I had to flip the connectors on one side of the case header pins so that the labels on all the connectors all pointed toward the center. I believe my power LED connector is also only 2 pins wide. Look for the + on the board and match it with the colored (not black, mine is green) wire on the cable. spkr rst HDD |___|_|_||_| Labels face V . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -------|-||--| Labels face ^ atx-pwr pwr led Putting it on the wrong way shouldn't damage the LED unless you leave it on for a long time and reverse bias the diode junction. If it doesn't work, take it off.
  12. Here's my case. Nothing too fancy yet since I've been concentrating on performance so far. I at least tried to make it look nice though. There's a closed case pic, open case pic and night shot. It really looks a lot brighter with the lights off than my camera will show, but this is the best I could do. Oh, and no, the pictures are not mirrored. This is one of those crazy upside-down and backwards cases. I like it though Just for envy's sake, the last picture shows the monitor I've been using with it.
  13. Are you using the USB drivers that came from DFI? I had problems with those in Windows XP and saw on these forums that others did too. If so, and you're running XP, uninstall them and let XP install the ones that come with SP2. I haven't had any problems since.
  14. I had this same problem when I first tried to power up my board. The diagnostic lights went down to 1 lit, I got one short speaker beep but nothing else happened. I fixed it by clearing the CMOS and putting the "Safe Boot" jumper in the active position. It booted cleanly after that and I put the jumper back into its original position. It's been fine since.
  15. I am an electrical engineer and I can tell you that power concerns are a big deal when designing any type of circuit board. Having multiple connections to the power source may not ensure more power, but what it does ensure is consistent voltages accross the board. Most components couldn't care less if they really got 4.8V instead of 5V as long as it's within tolerances. But you want all your components getting the same 4.8V. I would go so far as to say that just connecting the board to the PSU's ground in so many places and near the most important devices (CPU, RAM, GPU) ensures a much more stable environment by ensuring a common ground that does not fluctuate across the board. Multiple ground/power connections means a better overall capacitative effect between the board layers which means more stable supply voltages. I would guess that every other layer of your motherboard is a ground plane. Not that I've ever designed a motherboard. DFI did a great job to provide so many power connections that are basically creating consistent voltages across the board by reducing the local effects of high power draw (say, near your GPU) and providing a better shield against interference from high frequency noise and power spikes. This is what any good board designer should do, especially one that knows their customers are going to put high-powered components into their product. So when you fire up your favorite FPS and crank those Watts into your GPU, you aren't lowering voltages across your entire motherboard!
  16. You're more patient than I to wait that extra 2 seconds
  17. You can see my memory timing post here: http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread...orsair+3200xlpt I'm pretty sure the 3200XLPT that I have is the same as the 3200XL only with a platinum heatspreader. The timings that I posted have been rock solid! Edit: jshekhel, I noticed that we have many of the same components. If you try the timings I posted, let me know if they help you out.
  18. This is a strange little BIOS issue I've noticed on all the revisions I've tried (using 3/10 now). I wonder if anyone else has this happen to them. I only have 2 drives in my system. 1 SATA on the NF4 controller (SATA1) and another DVD-RW on the PATA controller. I set all the other drives to NONE in the BIOS to avoid the automatic detection during every boot. I've noticed though, that whenever I go into the BIOS, two of these drive settings revert back to AUTO and I have to change them back to NONE. If I remember to do this it skips the detection like I want, so it is obviously saving my settings. It just doesn't recall them properly when I boot into the BIOS screens. Otherwise, my system works perfectly. It's just a little annoying to change this setting every time I edit the BIOS settings. This is the 3rd BIOS revision I've used and I know it also happened at least on the original version my board came with (1/25, I think). Anyone else see this happening? Any Ideas?
  19. I noticed that the chipset heatsink/fan on my SLI-DR moved around quite easily which indicated a poor contact surface for heat exchange. This is due in parts to both the spring-loaded mounting posts that allow play and the thermal pad which does not adhere to the chipset die. It normally operated in the high 40's C and may have broken into the low 50's at times. I removed it by unscrewing my board from the case and using needle-nosed pliers to squeeze the mounting post teeth in on the backside of the board and pushing them through. It is pretty easy to do this, just be careful not to scratch the board. At this point the cooler pops right off. I peeled the yellow thermal pad off with a sharp knife, being careful not to gouge the heatsink surface too much. It's not very smooth to begin with, but why make things worse? I was also careful not to remove the foam pad that surrounds the thermal pad. It looks like this is there to keep the heatsink from shorting out the small components on the face of the chipset. I applied a thin layer or Arctic Silver 5 to the area of the heatsink that had contacted the chipset die, based on where the thermal pad had shown the impression. I tried not to make too much of a mess since I hear AS5 can be conductive. A better way to do this would be to apply a thin layer to the die on the chipset itself, but I didn't think of it at the time. I replaced the heatsink/fan assembly and popped the mounting posts back through the motherboard. Now my chipset operates at idle in the high 30's C and tops out in the low-mid 40's. The heatsink assembly still can be moved fairly easily. I suppose using AS epoxy would have solved that problem, but I really don't touch my chipset that often anyway and it seems to work fine as it is.
  20. I recently posted my baseline Corsair 3200XLPT TCCD stable timings here: http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7644
  21. I had some lingering problems with my RAM timings. I tried out Rgone's basic "catch-all" stability settings and they worked better than I previously had, but I still had some issues. I also tried out some other posted TCCD chip timings that still gave me problems. Eventually, I printed out Jess1313's timing tutorial (posted by Angry_Games in the sticky and edited by Rgone) and took the task upon myself to decide each timing setting based on those guidelines. It appears that my first attempt was successful. These settings are somewhat arbitrary and lean toward the conservative side since stability was my main goal. I've run Memtest86 overnight (~8 hours) with 0 errors as well as Prime95 for over 11 hours with no problems. Application crashes in XP and BSOD's appear to be gone. 3DMark '05 and the Crytek engine demo "The Project" seem to run nicely. Previously I had been having appication crashes in 3DMark between tests. In the interest of sharing my work so that others don't share my frustration, here are the settings I am now using: (Corsair TwinX 2x512 3200XLPT v1.2 modules and A64 3500+ Winchester) ------------Genie BIOS-------------- FSB = 200 LDT = x4.0 LDT bus = 16dn 16up cpu/fsb = x11.0 (manually set to default multiplier) PCI express = 101 (Nvidia 6800 GT) CPU VID = 1.400V CPU VID Ctrl = 1.400V CPU VID Spec. Ctrl = *113% (1.58V) LDT V = 1.4V Chipset V = 1.8V DRAM V = 2.9V --------------DRAM Configuration------------- Freq. = 200 (1/01) CPC = enable (1T) Tcl = 2.0 Trad = 2 Tras = 5 Trp = 2 Trc = 15 Trfc = 17 Trrd = 4 Twr = 3 Twtr = 2 Trwt = 2 Tref = 0780 Twcl = Auto Bank interleave = enabled skew = decrease skew value = 50 DRAM drive = L1 data drive = L4 Max. async. = 8 read preamble = 6 idle cycle = 32 dyn counter = disable R/W queue = 16x bypass max = 7x 32 byte gran. = enable (4 bursts) As I said above, these are pretty conservative except for the timings I know these sticks are rated for (2-2-2-5 @ DDR 400). I'll be using these as a baseline to start honing down for more performance. I'd be glad to hear any suggestions anyone else might have with regard to what timinigs are no-brainers to trim down. Most of all, I hope this helps anyone else who is having the same trouble I did. I plan to come back and update this post with new findings. Update: Sandra memory benchmarks look pretty consistent with previous, more aggressive settings. Looks like I hit all the important ones. Turns out my problem with 3DMark is actually a bug concerning XP SP2 and background processes (checked the 3DMark FAQ). Nonetheless, these are stable timings that might help someone out.
  22. Are you trying to run a HD with Windows that was installed from another system? That will not work. Or do you mean that the Windows setup resets? If that's the case, turn off all the on board peripherals in the BIOS (especially USB) and try running the Windows setup again.
  23. I have the Corsair TWINX 3200XLPT RAM (which I assume is similar dimensions to XLPRO) and an XP-120. I have my sticks in slots 2 & 4 with no problem (even a few mm of clearance), only I made sure to put them there before installing the CPU heatsink. You don't say what problems you have with your ethernet ports, but the drivers from the included disc worked fine for me with both the Marvell and Nforce controllers on the SLI-DR. You might want to check any BIOS settings for your network adapters.
  24. I have a 120mm Panaflo on my XP-120 CPU cooler and it also doesn't seem to have an RPM sensor (as Rgone's post informs). It always shows up as 0 RPM and I've tried other fans on that header to make sure it is working. I have no idea why they bother with putting that third, yellow wire on the connector if they don't use it. I guess it's just cheaper than using a different cable assembly.
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