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About Fonetik

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  1. Finally got the hang of my SLI-DR. It's now running at toaster quality speeds! [bimg]http://www.wordhole.net/dfi_nf4/toaster1.jpg[/bimg] Please include the following info in my sig: DFI NF4 SLI-DR Athlon 64 3500+ 939 90nm Winchester @ 2500MHz 2x512MB Corsair CMX512-3200XLPT v1.2 @ DDR500 BFG GeForce 6800 GT OC 256 PCIE Western Digital 74GB Raptor II OCZ Modstream 520W PSU Aerocool Spiral Galaxies Full Tower Thanks!
  2. Maybe you have a bad power cable. If something in the wiring is shorting out then you could have a big issue. I would check the connector and make sure the pins aren't bent or loose. You're plugging the connector in the correct way, right? I've heard that the manual has it backwards with the 12V and 5V pins switched :eek: .
  3. The buffer size is transparent to the motherboard. That's totally internal to the HDD. As long as it says it's SATA you're good to go. The NF4 is supposed to work with NCQ. My WD Raptor has TCQ (similar, but no real benefit) and works fine.
  4. What were you doing when you got this error? I think you're misreading it and it is not an IP error. It just says that it will send your IP address to Microsoft for logging purposes. The info that the message gives you is pretty useless unless you can decode the hex numbers. In certain situations (3Dmark 2001 looping with Prime in backgroud after a few hours) I get these errors even though I am Prime and memtest stable for 6-8 hours. I'm 90% certain it is a memory issue though. I'm trying to track down exactly what setting is causing this. At the moment, I am thinking that it is a DRAM Drive Strength or CPU voltage issue.
  5. I haven't found a utility that shows the correct voltages on my board. NVmonitor is way off (0.600V CPU?!) and Smart Guardian shows my 12V rail as 11.41V. If I test this with a multimeter I get 11.94V under heavy load. So, as far as I've seen, none of the utilities are very accurate. As for Windows booting slowly and working fine once it does, I would look into your drivers. Maybe even try booting into safe mode once. Sometimes that clears things up. A defrag couldn't hurt, but it would have to be enormously fragmented to make that big of a difference. On a related note, you might consider running scandisk with free space/surface scan on to see if your drive has developed any bad sectors.
  6. I'm not sure where you heard this about AMD systems. I and many others are running at 2-2-2-5 but it will depend on your RAM. Also, note that the POST screen will actually report 2-2-2-5 as 2-2-5-2.
  7. I've had issues with Windows failing to update my CPU speed on my 3000+ laptop. Try using something like CPU-Z or AMD's CPU-ID. http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php http://www.amd.com/us-en/Processors/Techni...71_9706,00.html
  8. Sounds like you have Cool 'n Quiet enabled in the BIOS and the CPU is throttling down if it's at 803MHz. If you want to run at full speed all the time either disable it in the BIOS or change your power profile in XP to something like "Always On". If you want to overclock, I recommend disabling both CPU Throttling (turns down speed at high temps) and Cool 'n Quiet (turns down speed when there's little processor usage) in the BIOS. Memory speed seems correct for default values. Increasing voltages alone will not change the speeds. If you can run memtest86 and prime95 overnight without errors you probably can't get more stable.
  9. Press DEL during the Lanparty Logo to get into the BIOS. It just covers up the POST screen.
  10. I used needle-nosed pliers to push the little teeth in on the backside of the board and to push the posts through from back. The posts are a little oversized for the holes they are in, but they should push through with a little effort. Once the teeth and post are pushed in a bit, the teeth won't catch on the board and you can use a blunt edge of the pliers (even the rubberized handle so you don't scratch the board) to push on the bottom of the post. Use a thin layer of thermal paste just as you'd do on your CPU. Try not to make a mess and don't pull the outer, square foam shim off the cooler. You'll see it when you get the cooler off.
  11. Unlike incandescent lightbulbs, LEDs are polarity dependant. You need to plug the wire in the right way for it to light up, so I would try turning the cable around. On my SLI-DR I know I had to flip the connectors on one side of the case header pins so that the labels on all the connectors all pointed toward the center. I believe my power LED connector is also only 2 pins wide. Look for the + on the board and match it with the colored (not black, mine is green) wire on the cable. spkr rst HDD |___|_|_||_| Labels face V . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -------|-||--| Labels face ^ atx-pwr pwr led Putting it on the wrong way shouldn't damage the LED unless you leave it on for a long time and reverse bias the diode junction. If it doesn't work, take it off.
  12. Here's my case. Nothing too fancy yet since I've been concentrating on performance so far. I at least tried to make it look nice though. There's a closed case pic, open case pic and night shot. It really looks a lot brighter with the lights off than my camera will show, but this is the best I could do. Oh, and no, the pictures are not mirrored. This is one of those crazy upside-down and backwards cases. I like it though Just for envy's sake, the last picture shows the monitor I've been using with it.
  13. Are you using the USB drivers that came from DFI? I had problems with those in Windows XP and saw on these forums that others did too. If so, and you're running XP, uninstall them and let XP install the ones that come with SP2. I haven't had any problems since.
  14. I had this same problem when I first tried to power up my board. The diagnostic lights went down to 1 lit, I got one short speaker beep but nothing else happened. I fixed it by clearing the CMOS and putting the "Safe Boot" jumper in the active position. It booted cleanly after that and I put the jumper back into its original position. It's been fine since.
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