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Vista

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  1. Well, burn-in is a hotly debated voodoo science. My guess is it's really user burn-in: you get smarter and tune into your rig over time, so it synergistically reacts in a positive way
  2. Ouch and Haha Perhaps that accounts for some of the variation I've seen in reported chipset temps. Can't be a lot that missed that QA step though.
  3. I don't have any experience with ATI cards, but that sounds like a video codec problem. Perhaps cleaning out/reinstalling the codecs or trying a different codec pack would help. Just a thought.
  4. Good to hear it's working for you! 240x10 with that CPU, RAM, and PSU is quite respectable, even without CnQ enabled!
  5. Sorry, I didn't realize you were trying to use CnQ and OC at the same time... that's a different kettle of fish. Personally, I'd ditch CnQ and approach that cool and quiet (and stable) operation by using better heatsinks, big slow fans, ducting, etc. rather than hope that CnQ will work reliably while running a huge OC over stock. Too many people have problems getting that combination to work (do a forum search). Then you could try lowering voltages to something more reasonable while maintaing your OC. I'd feel better with your 240x10 settings for extending the life of your CPU and components, 1.65v seems a bit high for air cooling.
  6. 60°C is about as high as I'd personally want to see for any length of time, but that doesn't give you much safety margin if your room temperature rises another 5°C in the summer. According to the AMD chart (http://www.angrygames.com/AMD_CPU/AMD_64/AMD_64.htm) 70°C is the maximum rating. You might try an after-market HSF, or see if you can lower your volts a touch while staying stable. Edit: You might also try StressCPU to max your CPU temperatures. I find this program does indeed get temperatures 1-2°C higher than OCCT, CPU Burn-in, or S&M.
  7. It is always more stable to have all 4 power headers connected, even if you only have 1 video card. You aren't wasting or "using unneeded power", you are just making sure stable power is available to all points on the board without added resistance and heat from using just the ATX connectors.
  8. If you have any USB devices plugged in, try unplugging them all before powering up. You might have the Maxtor problem as well (though I thought that was only SATA drives). Make sure you don't have any yellow warnings in the Device Manager, and that everything is using the right drivers and set Power Management so they cannot ever power off. As a last resort, try running the mobo with minimal cards and peripherals outside of the case and see if Windows is still unstable.
  9. This must be the infamous "Let's take a #2 pencil and scribble on everything that looks vaguely metallic" mod that unlocks the full mysterious potential of your Clawhammer (while chopping 2 of it's legs off).
  10. You got the right idea, no DRAM frequency divider (1:1) is best, crank up the FSB and lower the CPU/FSB ratio while trying for a screenie. You CAN blow up and smoke your system doing this, with great power comes great responsibility.
  11. This is a San Diego: http://www.monarchcomputer.com/Merchant2/m...egory_Code=amdp Don't know which is the IN-A-BOX retail version.
  12. 38ºC load is sweet with stock cooling! Yes, it's all too easy to end up with a mislabled sensor, most sensor programs aren't up-to-date with DFI yet. That being said, I uninstalled ITE Smart Guardian 1.0 since I hate that it wants to load on boot regardless of options set.
  13. My DFI will sleep, but I don't like standby mode for other stability reasons. Snapshots of RAM are a fleeting thing at best, hoping to shove them back into RAM and devices with a bunch of sensors and while messing with volts and waking up your monitor is just asking for problems if you are OCing. I'm not a big fan of S3 mode really.
  14. Yes, I call this effect "Winnie burn-in". Or maybe it's user burn-in. Or maybe it's a combination of you getting better at tuning and your RAM and CPU and TIM and dust breaking in. Whatever, I'm seeing that too with a CBBHD. It wouldn't go stable with looser timing at 2475 until I threatened it with 1.56v, then I backed off to my sig specs and it seems tamed Edit: I'm beginning to suspect that the AMD 64 has a rookie mode.. if you try to OC with less than 1.5v it assumes you just have a bad PSU and aren't serious. If you give it a kick in the pants it wakes up and resets into Enthusiast Mode. I can see in a few years, we will have CPU's that report back to home base, "Yes, Vista overclocked the CPU by 25.3% in a 20% zone, and look at those peak temperatures! No warranty granted." Sort of like the new BMW's with the snoopy on-board engine monitors.
  15. Check out my sig specs, might work for you today
  16. Hey, congratulations! Yes, I had to magnify your photobucket images to read them, so it wouldn't hurt to repost when you get some sleep
  17. Please refer to this thread: http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4177 Lots of people doing RAID 0 with 4x drives on the NF4s!
  18. Please click on the User CP link on the top-left, click and fill out the Edit Signature with everything you can think of related to your rig and BIOS settings, Preview Signature and use Size=1 please 37°C idle in BIOS sounds plausible with the stock HSF and a 3500+, but I don't know what CPU and volts and overclock you are attempting right out of the box. Under load, A64's immediately jump up in temp, then when you remove the load they jump back to idle temps. You need to use something like Speedfan or OCCT to graph your temps at idle and under game load.
  19. Go to http://extreme.outervision.com/index.jsp, input your imaginary wish system, set "Add additional %" to 50% since PSU makers and board makers and everyone else is optimistic... you can see we will need 1000w PSU's when we get to 2x dual-core CPU and SLI with 2x dual-core GPU unless the architecture changes drastically. I think the Nanocooling graph is interesting, we are approaching nuclear reactor and rocket engine cooling problems with P4 silicon chips now.
  20. This happens on my Dell 8200 as well so don't get too excited. S3 either works without comment for many that try it, while other people struggle with it and there is with no apparent pattern. Google and you'll see lots of oddness on every stripe of system. Some PCI and USB devices don't "sleep" well, which adds to the complexity.
  21. What works great is setting the chipset fan speed in PC Health so it never hits over 5300 RPM. Above that speed yes it can whine a bit with no appreciable increase in cooling at 7337 RPM vs. 5300ish. I agree the clearances are tight to non-existent in either PCIE slot for my 6800 GT, but no rattles and I get better cooling overall in the PCIE4 slot at 8x. If it's not a problem ... and you say your rig is working, it's not a problem
  22. The price difference might not be that much depending on your area. Do you need the SiL extra 4 SATA connections and Front-X support? Even if you get the UT SLI-DR, your mobo may end up being the least expensive main component if your are hoping to overclock stable. Check out this thread: http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10736. The downside of SLI mode is that you cannot use a single video card in the PCIE4 slot. Edit: Also, dual core CPU and GPU's and advanced 939 cooling solutions are just around the corner, as well as cheaper San Diegos, etc. that I bet will work with the NF4 series. For ~$129 USD how far could you go wrong with an Ultra-D?
  23. Southern cooking for sure, but good sushi is just sensational!
  24. Owies!!! AG, what mod praytell were you attempting so I can avoid that one? The fused pins are especially lovely LOL
  25. LMAO, I remember one of the final episodes where the two leads encounter the old wise third lead prone in a corridor. The base commander turns fractionally toward the blonde babe and states with coroner flatness, "He's dead", and they move on. Robots could act with more emotion.
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