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Everything posted by Vista

  1. I hear you about just wanting to get it gaming! Those temps look fine. People are going to point fingers at your Corsair Value RAM next. With some loose DRAM settings you might get it to go with some OC.
  2. Yeah, I'd chalk it up to bad luck unless you have 8x HDD and 4x DVD/CDRW running too. Still, get a good sine-wave UPS if you don't already have one.
  3. 3 GHz is good! You probably have the 1 in a million San Diego that will go 5 GHz, but you'll never know until you try it
  4. How does it do as far as stability? How does it benchmark? With differences that small in Memtest, you can't really worry until you have more data. Usually the extra 5MHz FSB is worth it.
  5. Seasonics have been well rated and many people have no problems with the 500 and 600w versions on the SLI-DR. I almost got a S12-500 but decided the Enermax 600 had a bit more headroom and nicer/longer cables for my case. In retrospect, I would have been fine with the S12-500 or S12-600 as well.
  6. OCCT will do that with ITE SmartGuardian, Speedfan, or MBM5. It just slaves itself off the sensor readings of whatever you have installed and select during setup. The OCCT graphs while running the 30 minute "Test" are very interesting on my system, you can see slight PSU +12/+5/+3.3 voltage droops and variation but the CPU voltage stays dead on.
  7. Wow! I'd update your sig and backup your data ASAP! Was the computer plugged into a UPS or surge protector? That does seem bad, many people have had no problems with that PSU and your rig sig. Maybe you can get an RMA and upgrade to a 600w or something?
  8. Check out some of the threads like: http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10104 Your CPU has some speed limit. Each stick of RAM has some limit. Your mobo has a limit too but you won't reach it Put both sticks of RAM together and your limit will be lower than with one stick. Four sticks will be even worse, even on a San Diego. Bigger sticks are slower than smaller sticks and dual channel is faster than single, so your 2x256 should bench faster than 1x512 or 2x512 or 2x1GB. Now the bad thing is that for any given combination of CPU, RAM, PSU, GPU, and MB that test perfectly in isolation, there are islands of stability at some combination of BIOS settings. Your job as a builder is to find those conditions.
  9. If the BIOS DRAM auto settings gives you 2-3-2-5 in CPU-Z and they are working for you, don't change them! See how high your FSB will go stable with OCCT, SuperPI, Prime95, games, etc., at those looser timings. http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3393 has information on what all those DRAM settings mean, starting with post #19.
  10. You can always try the RGone BIOS "Flash it thrice in a row, or more, just to be sure" method. Anything that easy to zap must be haphazard sometimes.
  11. I'm sure a lot of people are getting away with one 120mm 5w CPU fan running off the mobo CPU fan header. The problems I've seen on this forum usually involve multiple fans running off the mobo that probably total over 10 watts (or bad stall/inrush current on a single fan). If you plug a fan into your mobo and try to regulate it, the power has to run through the mobo power regulators, etc., so you're putting a load on the board and probably adding to PWMIC heat, especially if you are trying to undervolt the fan(s). Edit: There is a technique using opto-isolators where you can have your cake and eat it too. Basically you intercept the mobo fan header RPM and voltage with a controller that is powered off a PSU Molex but tracks the mobo fan header voltage.
  12. Yeah, I re-read what your edits said and edited my response LOL I don't have any other ideas unfortunately, maybe another forum member can help us out
  13. I'd try to back out and go back to SATA 1&2 with the cables plugged in appropriately, with SATA 3&4 disabled, and change the boot priority for your HDD's so that the RAID comes first and the IDE comes last. Resetting the CMOS means you need to reset your RAID settings in BIOS as well. Does the older IDE HDD have Windows installed?
  14. 3/10/2005 (http://www.dfi.com.tw/Upload/BIOS/NF4LD310.zip) is the latest "official" BIOS that is shipping on your board. That Sony FDD should be fine, barring DOA.
  15. Memtest each stick up to it's MHz limit using SPD settings and stock VDIMM or a bit more. It could be that one stick isn't stable at the same speeds and timings and voltages as the other, so when you try dual channel mode with two sticks they don't play well together. Dual channel is harder on the memory controller and RAM than single, so you cannot expect timings to stay as tight. Slot 2 is best performance for single channel, and 2-4 are best performance for dual channel, regardless of BIOS. You won't get better results trying other slots or combinations. There are so many BIOS settings available just for optimizing DRAM timing I find it hard to believe your hypothesis that "this is the board's problem". You mention that you tried CAS 2.5 and the board booted up no problem... this is a clue! Dividers work but you may need different (looser) settings to be stable or even boot. For each divider there is going to be a sweet spot between timings and FSB.
  16. I never could convince SmartGuardian to not automatically load at startup. The Options Startup setting does nothing, and every time you run SG it creates a new registry Run command. I like the graphs in Speedfan too. Three more to add to the pile: S&M Stresses things a bit differently than most, it ramps and cycles the load on the CPU at a rapid frequency. StressCPU Best for heating up your CPU without lots of RAM or video load. rthdribl Good for heating your GPU to gaming loads without much CPU or RAM usage.
  17. 4.8 watts might be pushing it. Ideally, you'd want to use the mobo for RPM monitoring only. You can use something like a Zalman FanMate to manually adjust the speed, or get a front-panel fan controller.
  18. In a properly working system the 4 red LED's will turn off one by one as the board goes through the boot process. If there is a problem during boot, one or more of the red LED's will remain on. By counting the LED's and then looking at the chart, you can tell where the boot process failed. So if only one red LED remains on, that means there might be a VGA detection problem (or something else preventing the board from getting to system boot to clear the last LED).
  19. The screen refresh rate only affects the frequency at which your CRT updates, so it isn't going to vary during gameplay. If you don't have noticable flicker on your Windows desktop, your screen refresh rate is high enough and the problem lies elsewhere. Use Driver Cleaner and try different ForceWare drivers.
  20. Where did your 2x60gb Seagate Barracuda's come from? Did they use to be in a RAID on another rig with Windows? If so, you may have to clear the drives using a HDD utility before you reinstall Windows.
  21. Check out this thread: http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread...&highlight=MBM5
  22. My case didn't come with a PSU, they are getting smarter
  23. So True RGone, I now use Excel to track my changes, when I break out Excel you know I'm seriously trying to track this stuff. It is quite revealing, and helpful to get back to safe territory after exploring!
  24. I had the hardest time getting to 260x10, much less 275x9. Test each stick of RAM seperately in orange Slot 2 just to find their 1:1 speed limits and characteristics at a given voltage. Then put the worst stick in slot 2, the best stick in slot 4, and lower your FSB by 5-10% under what the worst stick topped out at and see what happens. Also, you can try over-volting your CPU to 1.425x110% for a bit, check errors, then back off and see what happens. There are a lot of variables involved here I've found, and it's all on the edge
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