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Everything posted by Vista

  1. With Windows XP, Start Menu->Settings->Control Panel->User Accounts. Click on each account, and then Change My Password or Turn Off as needed for each account.
  2. Maybe a fast CMOS clear and one stick of RAM in the Orange Slot furthest from the CPU (Slot 4). If that doesn't work I'm out of ideas Last ditch is to unmount the mobo from the case and put it on the magic mat (i.e., the DFI cardboard box and foam) with absolute minimum stuff plugged in, see what happens.
  3. You should use a secure password for all of your Windows accounts, and disable any accounts you are not using currently or remove them. You should use secure passwords for your Windows login because it is remotely possible for hackers to gain control of your computer more easily if you have a blank admin or user password versus something like xyz2137g98.
  4. The G70 SLI setup recommends 500w PSU minimum. Another bump to the cause for huge PSUs! Linkage to http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/attachment...tachmentid=1224
  5. If worse comes to worse d3van, AG can sort it for you, if you can catch him before he gets his Xbox360 lol So holding down insert or delete keys has no effect on your ability to get into BIOS? Using a PS/2 keyboard?
  6. The stock AMD 64 HSF retail package solution works, but it is hot and fairly noisy. You can even overclock it some. But you can drop your load temps by over 10°C by getting the XP-90 from SVC.com (thanks AG!), add a Panaflo or Nexus fan with the OEM chip, and end up faster/quieter/cooler/cheaper. Doesn't get better than that bro
  7. To be really good about CMOS clearing, power off PSU, unplug AC powercord from PSU, remove battery, remove all the power connectors to the mobo. Press the power button on the mobo 2-3 times, jumper to clear the CMOS. Back out in reverse order. The key here is to remove all power from the mobo while you are trying to clear the CMOS, including add-on boards. There are a lot of capacitors involved if you don't drain things in the right order. Also, many pros here advise "flash me 3 or more times" when flashing the BIOS, since you are dealing with an EEPROM and attempting to emulate a dedicated burner.
  8. Get the Ultra-D, save some money. You can always mod to SLI later if you get the urge, but I bet by then you will be getting the new DFI nF8 or something with a quad core dual 64 GPU. Get the NEC ND-3520 DVD/CDRW drive, at under $50 from NewEgg you cannot go wrong.
  9. Huh. Only thing I can think of is a bad OCCT install then. But again, the important thing is do the games you care about work! Game on man! Seriously, I'm a bit concerned when a program like OCCT says 2+2=4.0001, this indicates an error somewhere... it could be cooling, power, timing, etc. You might never encounter a problem in 10 years with your current system, or you might end up with a corrupt Windows OS in 24 hours. Only time will tell.
  10. I'm running a 92mm Nexus low RPM/CFM fan on the XP-90, the fan runs a constant 1700RPM and I stay under 42°C under the most extreme loads with a 20°C room ambient at my current settings below. My normal load is 38°C, and idle is 26-27°C. I'd go for lighter/cheaper at SVC.com instead of the copper unit or get a Danger Den watercooler if you are that serious about OC and temps. I thought about getting the XP-120 or Zalman 7000, I'm glad I listened to AG and got the aluminum XP-90 for $24.99
  11. Yes, Ultra-DMA is a different beast. I can't find any DFI users with your exact problem, but your Samsung drive has a lot of Linux users upset. If the performance is okay using Multi-Word, I'd save up for a new drive or live with it
  12. You are right scaramonga, you could in fact stir up more dust and stuff with compressed air and end up with more contamination than if you just swiped it with a rag. Maybe a combination of using your vacuum cleaner with a thin nozzle and compressed air would be optimum. I use to work with optics and have looked at precision surfaces using a microscope, and you'd be amazed how much junk floats down in the 10-20 minutes it takes you to assemble things.
  13. It is better than a SB Live! but worse than an Audigy. Probably one of the better onboard audio solutions out there, but it's not going to beat the Audigy 2 for serious audiophiles. In general, PCI sound cards are going to have less CPU usage and better S/N ratio than onboard audio.
  14. Awesome blink! We can put a RESOLVED on this one
  15. If it's not the cable (the Creative 52x works), then it could be an IRQ sharing problem with the Samsung and the rest of your rig. If that is the case, it is possible you could manually assign IRQ addresses to devices and work past the problem. Or just plunk down $49.99 and get an NEC ND-3520 from NewEgg on special
  16. blink, this sounds familiar, what happens if you plug the center channel into the black jack? You might check this thread, it's confusing at best but might give you some clues: http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread...aker+black+plug
  17. Actually, a good quality clean cotton t-shirt has less lint and is less abrasive than Q-tips or paper towels at the same pressures. You could use lens cleaning tissue or coffee filters as alternatives too, but there really is no such thing as a lint free product that is made out of fibers. AG has the key as always: compressed air is the only way to remove lint and particles.
  18. S&M 1.6 (http://www.testmem.nm.ru/snm.zip) also does a nice job of testing CPU and RAM. It does fast thermal cycling of your CPU which can uncover stress failures that a solid load won't find.
  19. Memtest errors are a bad sign since it is much more forgiving than Windows about memory errors. How soon does the first error appear in test #7? If you loop test #8 for 8 hours, do you get any errors? Maybe posting all your DRAM and voltage settings would help others diagnose your issue.
  20. Awesome babyelf, and where did you get the nice blue dual fans?
  21. Try the Prime95 Torture Test instead. Prime95 isn't checking for errors past the first hour unless you use the Torture Test. Also, try uninstalling/reinstalling OCCT, as it can be picky about what was installed before and after it. Try running SuperPI on the 32M test. You really should be able to pass OCCT's 30 minute test! Some of those A64 Tweaker DRAM settings still look amazingly tight for Corsair Value RAM, but ultimately, if you can game or do what you want with the system, it's as stable as you need it to be for the mission.
  22. The Arctic Clean/Arctic Purifier products work very well, and smell nice too! 99% isopropyl alcohol is dirt cheap, readily available, and almost as good. Angry_Games has convinced me
  23. 99% pure isopropyl alcohol from your drugstore usually does the trick, along with some Q-tips and an old t-shirt. Let a few drops soak into the old TIM pad for a few minutes, then start wiping away the mess. Just like CPU HSF.
  24. I agree with mucker, for me 2.5v was fine for stock speeds, 2.6v was needed for stability with my OC. Over 2.6v just caused Memtest errors. Sometimes I wish we had smaller VDIMM increments than 0.1v to play with in BIOS, but there is already so much flexibility I can't complain too much
  25. I tried all of the settings and benchmarked each one using 3Dmark01 and Aquamark, and I couldn't see any real repeatable difference in performance no matter what size the payload was. Some people say it should be the same size as your GPU RAM, so 256MB in your case. Others claim it should be 50% of your GPU RAM, so 128MB. I left mine at 256MB.
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