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Everything posted by Vista

  1. Angry Games has posted a nice table from AMD here: http://www.angrygames.com/AMD_CPU/AMD_64/AMD_64.htm
  2. Your Ambient seems high, but maybe your computer room is warmer than mine? My room temp is actually close to 20°C (68°F). Still, your idle seems way high. I'd consider talking to BFG about that card, considering it's primo with a lifetime warranty. Perhaps they didn't seat the thermal pad just right on that one?
  3. How do you know it's 310p? Just curious. Check out this link for my experience: http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8466
  4. Right-click your desktop, Properties off the menu, Settings tab, click Advanced button, click GeForce 6800 GT tab, click Temperature Settings from the popup menu on the right. This should show you your GPU temp. Mine says 51-55°C at Ambient of 41°C in the PCIE4 slot with almost no airflow at idle. On full load, I get 58°C or so. nVidia claims it's good up to 120°C, but I'd freak if it got over 60.
  5. Never ever bother to try nTune. I just did so don't waste your time. I uninstalled it after realizing it offered no tuning abilitities beyond what you can do with the board and Display->Properties->Advanced->nVidia->Clock Frequency. nTune is nothing but trouble for you, and wasted disk space when installed. You can achieve all your OC goals using the DFI BIOS. The BIOS PC Health shows fairly reliable temperature readings. The only thing better might be expensive external thermocouples installed into all your parts. The ITE SmartGuardian off your DFI mobo disk is your next best bet. SpeedFan is nice as well because you can customize and chart your temp and voltage readings to match your BIOS readings.
  6. mucker, agreed! I was going to suggest just removing all those PCI covers for unused slots just to get more air intake as a first step. I'm trying to keep the noise down to same or lower than what I have now, which is pretty noisy (I'd guess 35-40db'ish at 0.5m), so I'm trying to eliminate or quiet the 7 fans I already have!
  7. I had a defective floppy drive at first and flashed the BIOS using a bootable DVD instead of the floppy. A bootable CD would work as well. I used Nero to burn the floppy image.
  8. MPSmith, I feel your pain. My idle temps are CPU 34°C, PWM IC 44°C, Chipset 46°C in a 21°C ambient temperature room. Taking off the side cover doesn't change much. Moving the 6800 GT from PCIE1 to PCIE4 cooled PWM and Chipset down some for me, but notice your video card fan now has less free space below (or above for us BTX Vxx00 people). This means your GPU will run hotter usually, but you'll leave more room over the Chipset and stay further away from the CPU, so CPU and Chipset temps may drop.
  9. AG, is your BIOS screen shot for 1x512k? 2x256k? 2x512k? I am trying to figure out how you achieved stability with LDT/FSB of Auto (4x), which would mean HTT of either 1000mHz or 2000mHz depending on if you are using dual channel or not if I'm understanding things correctly.
  10. This is my first experience as a builder, and I am blown away! 260x10=2600mHz, all auto DRAM settings. 24500ish 3dMark2001 scores. Prime95 stable after 9+ hours. After re-reading and groking the HTT thread, I realized my HTT was running stable at 2080mHz :eek2: So I did the smart thing and backed off the LDT/FSB to 3x after proving that 4x was stable. I tried 270x10 but I fail Prime95 after about 1+ hours. Still, I'm very happy with FX55 speeds at a 3500+ price! I'm running over 18% faster than stock using stock air! This board rOxOrs! Now that I know the rough performance envelope of my hardware, I'm working on lowering the voltages while maintaining stability. Some of the things I've found so far: LDT is fine at the default 1.2v. I was overvolting for no good reason at first. Chipset is fine at the default 1.5v. Ditto. DRAM seems to like the default 2.5v. CPU seems to like just a touch more, 1.4vx110% = 1.54v. If I drop it down to the default volts for CPU and RAM I get some video artifacts in Memtest86+ 1.51 even though the RAM passes the tests. However, if I run Memtest82 3.2 off a bootable CD, the video artifacts are gone so I'm leaning toward blaming Memtest 1.51 rather than my CPU or RAM volts. The main thing is getting stable running Prime95/SuperPi/etc. in Windows. In terms of real-world performance, this rig utterly blows away my aging but at one time top-of-the-line Dell 8200 P4 2.2gHz. That Dell was bleeding edge in 2002, but now for 1/2 the price I'm getting almost 3x the performance and 2x more HD space! I'm sure I could tighten the memory timings a bit too, but that's going to take some trial and error. I'd like to get up to 270x10 stable with the looser timings, but I'd rather have Stable, Warm, Sort of Noisy instead of Flakey, Hot, and Screaming Fans. Next tasks are to get the temps and db levels down. I'm running 48°C CPU, 46°C PWM, and 49°C Chipset at max load. The noisiest thing in my case is the BFG video card with the stock nVidia cooler. I could lose 2-5db if I could figure out a replacement for that. Things I might have done differently now that I know better: 1) I got the Lian-Li V1200 case because I was afraid a "real" PSU would be too tight in a V1000. While the extra elbow room is nice in the V1200, I think I would have been fine with a V1000/1100. Also, the PWM/Chipset cooling isn't all it could be in the Vxx00 series despite the pretty PR airflow diagram. Still, I have a ton of room in there for all kinds of cables and cooling solutions, so it might work out with some mods. 2) I originally got an $8 NEC floppy drive from Newegg, the cheapest thing in my rig. It was defective (surprise!). I should have gotten a Samsung/Mitsumi/Sony for a bit more money to start with. I wasted a day trying new cables since I couldn't believe a new floppy drive could make noises and light up at boot yet still be defective. I ended up with a nicer Vantec floppy cable and a $15 Mitsumi floppy drive that perform great. 3) I could have gotten an nVidia 6600 GT instead of the 6800 GT. It would have been cheaper, quieter, and still ridiculously fast. The ATI x850 would have been cooler/smaller/cheaper as well I figure. My main goal was to maximize frame rate and stability in EVE though, so I got the nVidia. 4) I could have gotten faster RAM for less $$$. I went conservative and bought the most expensive PC3200 RAM but I could have gotten PC4400 cheaper (go figure, must be those Intel guys RE: http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc....-231-008&depa=0 vs. http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc....-231-006&depa=0). 5) The stock HSF sucks in every respect except for a) it works, B) it doesn't block anything. The heatsink surface had visible grooves like brushed aluminum, with 2-3 deep scar pits from machining or casting voids over the CPU area that I doubt could ever be lapped out. I'm sure lapping would help the stock HS some, but it's really not worth the effort for such an inferior product. Also, the stock fan is a screamer when it hits over 4000rpm. I'm considering a Thermalright XP-90 or XP-120 to replace it. Or perhaps a Zalman 7000 series. I'm still debating. 6) Don't uninstall the nVidia IDE (PATA) device drivers if you're using SATA RAID. I originally installed them, read the forums and decided to uninstall them (nVidia SW IDE is evil!), then ended up reinstalling them after reading Angry_Games advice. If it works perfectly with the default install, don't go looking for trouble. 7) Don't assume you can just plug in RGone's or AG's settings (or anyone elses for that matter) on your rig and start OC'ing. In reality, I didn't have much luck with 275x9, higher volts, etc. Try increasing FSB in small increments first (while keeping the HTT in the 1200-1800 DDR range). 8) Don't try to optimize your BIOS while intoxicated! I can't stress this one enough. One little key mis-stroke and it's CMOS clearing or new hardware time. This board qualifies as heavy machinery! Things I would not change: 1) Stick with DFI, obviously! 2) I debated getting a Seasonic S12-500w vs. the Enermax EG701 600w for a long time based on the idea that the S12-500 would be quieter. The Enermax proves to be the most silent thing in my case, as well as the coolest. I am sure the Seasonic would run my rig, but the Enermax has nicer sheathed cables that are slightly longer, and those extra amps can't hurt in the long run. All in all, I'm very happy with the Enermax so far. 3) G.SKILL Samsung TCCD RAM. Runs fast and error free with 2.5 Vdimm, hard to go wrong with a lifetime warranty. With the 3/10/2005 BIOS, all the DRAM auto defaults run perfectly at stock as well as OC speeds for me. I cannot comment on the stock BIOS as I never tried it after POSTing, but my guess is since it POSTed with 1 and 2 sticks fine with 1/25/2005 out of the case, I didn't really need to flash my BIOS. 4) I really like this NEC ND-3520 DVD+-RW! I recently replaced the old Philips DVD in my Dell 8200 with one and liked it so much I chose one for my DFI rig as well. Yes it is a bit noisy spinning imbalanced garishly silk-screened coasters at 10k rpm, but that's not the drive's fault. I am surprised you can spin a chunk of plastic that fast and get data in and out reliably, considering HD's don't spin much faster at best. 5) The 2x Raptors in RAID 0 are wonderful. I can hear them seeking at worst case, and zero high-frequency whine while just spinning. Highly recommended (until they fail that is). Thanks to everyone that has contributed to these forums. What a great community!
  11. Benchmarks like 3dMark, AquaMark, etc. have natural variation of at least +/-1% from run to run. For example, with 3dMark2001 you might get scores of anywhere from 24725 to 25250 without making any BIOS or system changes. If you average 10 or 100 runs, you might narrow it down to a tighter range.
  12. I'd avoid the NEC floppy as mine was defective from Newegg. For $8 I'm not going to bother RMA'ing. I replaced it with a Mitsumi from Fry's for $14.99 which worked perfectly. On the other hand, the NEC ND-3520A DVD/RW is an excellent product. I have two of them, and they read and write just about anything at blazing speeds.
  13. Hi Ed! I use the Large FFT (max heat) usually. Blend will look at your total RAM and try to allocate it all for testing, while Large FFT only uses 8MB. Blend tends to cause a lot of page file thrashing since all the RAM is in use, which is why I only use it when I'm really going to torture the full range of RAM. P.S. Thanks for your excellent assembly guide! It was a factor that convinced me to get this board and build my own rig this go round!
  14. Check your BIOS PC Health settings, it could be that your system is so cool that the fans are not triggered.
  15. I'd trust the DFI BIOS PC Health numbers first, and realize that the resolution of the thermistors and diodes are limited to +/-1C at best. You can adjust SpeedFan and other software to match the BIOS numbers, but I also like the finger test (does this part seem warm to my fingertip while using ESD precautions?)
  16. Look under the BIOS section labled PnP/PCI Configurations. Set "Reset Configuration Data" to "Enabled", and "Resources Controlled By" "Auto(ESCD)". Hit F10, Y, and cross your fingers
  17. Thanks Poisonsnak. And I'm sorry about the sig size! I messed up thinking Size 7 was going to be a 7pt font. No, Size 1 is what I want indeed! Yes, I read that same comment by RGone, which is why I decided to overcome my natural inclination to disable things. All is working so it's a non-issue for now!
  18. I think it's worth trying if you are on an Ultra-D and have cooling concerns. I moved my nVidia 6800GT from PCIE1 to PCIE4, switched the SLI jumpers to positions 2-3 as shown in the mobo manual, and my 3dMark2001 is still 24991 running 275x9 mild OC. The nVidia Display Properties shows PCIe 8x speed with the SLI jumper change. The best part is the cooling difference. I dropped about 5C on the chipset, and 2-3C on the PWM temps under Prime95 load. If you are using the front-panel USB connector (J18 or J33) and have a big GPU heatsink/fan, you might have some clearance issues.
  19. Here's what my Device Manager shows: A) Universal Serial Bus controllers 1) Standard OpenHCD USB Host Controller (Microsoft 7/1/2001 5.1.2006.2180) 2) USB Root Hub (Microsoft 7/1/2001 5.1.2006.2180) B) Universal Serial Bus controllers 1) PCI Class USB 2.0 Enhanced Host Controller (OWC 8/1/2004 2) USB 2.0 Root Hub Device (OWC 8/1/2004 I used the USB 2.0 drivers off the DFI mobo CD, but the WinXP SP2 drivers should work fine.
  20. If I have my RAID on SATA 1/2 and nothing connected to SATA 3/4, should I disable "Internal Phy SATA 3/4" in Genie BIOS Setting? Or leave it enabled? I do have Internal Phy SATA 3 and 4 disabled in the Integrated Peripherals->RAID Config screen. Thanks all
  21. My board works perfectly except for one problem, and it's got me stumped. My Kensington Expert Mouse Pro USB trackball is only detected about 10-20% of the time after a reboot. My Key Tronic USB keyboard, Microsoft USB Intellimouse, and Dazzle USB 2.0 card reader are all detected reliably. I've tried all of the different ports, and I've tried removing all other USB devices except for the trackball to see if it might be a device conflict. USB keyboard and USB mouse are enabled in BIOS, and I enabled "Reset Configuration Data" under PnP/PCI in case ESCD needed to update the DMI pool. All unused devices such as Firewire, Serial, and second LAN are disabled. I'm mildly overclocking (275x9) but going back to 200x11 or upping volts doesn't seem to make any difference. I also disconnected the case front panel USB connectors to make sure they weren't interfering with anything. The strange things is that if I unplug the trackball and plug it back in after Windows has loaded, Windows autodetects it every time and it works fine -- until the crapshoot next reboot. Now I know the obvious solution is to throw away my trackball, but I'm loath to do that and go back to carpal tunnel. This trackball works fine on my other computers. I can live with unplug/replugging, but it is an annoyance! I suspect some tricky timing issue on the USB bus is skipping over the Kensington, or the Kensington isn't responding fast enough during POST. Any ideas guys? Thanks in advance.
  22. My Ultra-D worked perfectly out of the box under the 1/25 BIOS. I flashed it to 3/10 just to be "current" and because I plan on using USB key/trackball, but it POSTed fine under the stock 1/25 BIOS. I did notice one pin bent a slight amount from shipping impacts with the Karajan module, but my fingernail easily fixed that. Installation was fairly intuitive. Everything except the floppy drive worked the first try. After trying new floppy cables to no avail, it turned out the NEC floppy drive was defective. I swapped it for a Mitsumi and then RAID 0 setup under Windows was painless. The board seems very stable using stock BIOS settings. Memtest86 passes with no problems. I just wanted to let people know that yes indeed, there are people out there that just plug it all in and viola, it works! -----------------------
  23. Enermax EG701AX-VE(W) SFMA (24P) 600W. I will add that the fans are very quiet.
  24. Thank you for your reply ViperJohn! 15% loss during CPU burn-in sounds wild. I had no idea it was that extreme. To be clear, are you saying an AMD 64 3500+ 90mn chip that started at 2.2GHz might be good for only 1.87GHz (2.2 * 0.85) after long-term use under heavy load? Vista (New DFI stuff coming and profile to match soon, old Dell Dimension 8200 for now)
  25. Do the OC characteristics of RAM and CPU really improve that much after "burn in"? I hear wildly different results from DFI-street members. Differences could be due to AS5 out-gassing, some strange solid-state transition at the chip physics level, or cooling changes. Does anyone have some empirical or theoretical burn-in data related to modern DDR and AMD 64 chips? Thank you in advance for your opinions.
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