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Everything posted by Vista

  1. Yeah, nobody says much bad about Geil.. so it can't be too bad
  2. I have the 6800 GT PCI-E, and it does OC nicely, but I'd get a 6600 GT or 850 too if I had it to do over again. The stock 6800 GT cooler is very noisy!
  3. A good 600w PSU won't draw 600w unless the rig needs it... load matters all the way down to the PSU.
  4. My sig settings are looking pretty stable (fingers crossed). Ah, I can't wait to see what summer will do to everyone's stability in the northern hemisphere!
  5. That Antec 380w PSU might be limiting you as well. Way under spec for this board unless you are going for dead-silent, no fans, minimal GFX, passive cooling, etc. Thanks for posting your specs! Every bit of data helps. Most people hate that Corsair stuff on this board.
  6. My feelings with a similar setup: sell the WC, upgrade the RAM if you want, please read the sticky and post your rig specs in your User CP Signature!
  7. I like how many DFI enthusiast use the DFI cardboard box as their case! Inventive use of stiff wire to suspend that fan over your RAM
  8. I just noticed this press release from G.Skill: http://www.gskill.com/f1-4800dsu2ff.html This thread has a bit more information from one of the reps: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=60065 I like those latencies and timings! Probably pretty pricey though, I can't find any for sale yet. The LA's I bought from Newegg have't changed in price still ($295), so I imagine these will break the $300 mark for 2x512. Still, *drool*, and notice they picked the DFI nF4 for their combo deal!
  9. It could be heat buildup around the RAM indeed. See if leaving the case open and/or adding a fan to blow on the RAM helps stabilize the errors.
  10. I found this guide to BIOS differences helpful: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showth...52&page=1&pp=25
  11. If you think there is any chance you've corrupted Windows, I'd reinstall now while it's still easy. Use the BIOS DRAM auto derfaults and stock speed (Load Optimized Defaults) to get you up and running. Do more Memtest and OCCT/Prime95 etc. stability tests from there as you find the limits of your RAM and CPU at various FSB speeds.
  12. The ITE SmartGuardian that comes on the DFI mobo CD-ROM, Speedfan, and MBM with the right configuration files (search for MBM5, post by soundx98: http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread...&highlight=MBM5 all work, but I trust the BIOS PC Health readings a bit more for volts versus Windows software. I'm working to get Speedfan updated to recognize the Ultra-D sensors better, in particular the 6800 GT GPU and ambient sensors.
  13. As you increase the FSB frequency to OC the CPU, RAM timings that might pass Memtest still might not be stable under Windows, even at DDR333 speeds. Programs like OCCT, Prime95, and SuperPi can isolate instabilities once you get past Memtest. I think that Geil is TCCD memory, so you might not need 2.9v... my memory was more stable at 2.6v than at lower or higher when I started OCing. It is also possible you are hitting the limits of your CPU with your current cooling and volts. Can you get up to 225x9? How about 200x10? If you have a 10x multi on your 3000+, give that a try.
  14. From page 21 of the lputnf4 847505101.pdf manual: "A DIMM's SPD is originally fixed at 1T. When modules are inserted in DIMM 1 and DIMM 3, the SPD must be 2T for better system stability. We recommend inserting DIMMs in DIMM 2 and DIMM 4." This is applies for 2x512 in dual channel mode.
  15. Agreed nVmatrix, under normal use you might not ever experience sustained memory stress as extreme as what you just tested. Then again, getting any errors is a clue that you are approaching the ragged edge of stability. If your room temperature goes up 5°C, will your RAM still be stable after 5-10 hours of gaming? Only the summer will tell
  16. At long last NewEgg had the Arctic Cooling NV Silencer 5 Rev.2 for the nVidia 6800 GT/UT cards in stock at the same time as the cables I wanted! I ordered early Wednesday using FEDEX Saver, and I got it Friday at 1 PM PDT. In this case NewEgg charged about $8 more for the Silencer than some vendors, but when I added the Vantec cables they had at cheap prices, the total cost was a wash compared to using multiple vendors to get the same goods. I’ve long awaited this GPU cooler, since it was crucial to my strategy of getting the noise level down in my system without killing performance. Semi-Quiet/Warmish/Speedy Attempt History: 1) I got the Lian-Li PC-V1200B case assuming that a couple of big 120mm fans were going to be quieter than lots of little fans, and that the case had plenty of room for mod possibilities. The V1200 comes with two120x120x25mm ADDA fans, one for cooling the HDD bay, and one to exhaust hot air out of motherboard area. In practice, it cools the HDD and PSU bay great since they are virtually isolated, but the PWM/chipset receives marginal cross-flow ventilation from the single 120mm exhaust fan on the rear of the case. The CPU and RAM receive some cooling since they are right next to the 120mm exhaust, but using air that’s already warm from the GPU/PWM/chipset. 2) I replaced the stock front 120mm ADDA HDD cooling fan with a Nexus, since this was the closest, loudest, and most unneeded fan. After this mod, no appreciable heating of the RAID 0 Raptors or any increase in other temperatures has been observed. The top of the lower Raptor feels about 30°C to my fingertip, which is close to case ambient. The Nexus 120mm is very quiet compared to the ADDA, but it’s bright orange and has the filled mount corners problem. I wish I could just get plain black with open mount corners, but otherwise it fits the job perfectly. 3) I tuned the DFI chipset fan to never get above 6000 RPM using the BIOS. At 5444 RPM the chipset fan is pretty quiet, but anything above that whines like a turbocharger. I just locked mine into 5444 using BIOS. This probably didn’t lower dBA by much, but it was an annoying varying frequency. Once the chipset fan speed was lowered, the next most obvious noise polluters were the stock AMD CPU HSF and the stock nVidia GPU HSF. 4) I didn’t like the chipset temperatures of over 50°C and PWM of over 51°C under maximum load at this point, so I moved the video card from PCIE1 to PCIE4. I did test moving the SLI jumpers vs. not moving them, if you move the card to PCIE4 without moving the jumpers to SLI 2-4 configurations; ForceWare Display Properties shows your PCI-e bus speed to be at 2x. If you move the jumpers to SLI 2-4, ForceWare says your PCI-e bus speed is 8x, again as indicated by the manual. So if you want to use 8x PCI-e in PCIE4, you should move the jumpers to SLI configuration on the Ultra-D! After moving the video card away from the chipset, I got a 1-2°C drop in chipset and PWM temperatures. 5) I replaced the stock CPU HSF with a Thermalright XP-90 and Nexus 92mm fan. The Nexus 92mm doesn’t move much air (<=27 CFM?), but it’s virtually silent. I run it full speed (1700 RPM) at full 12v using a PSU Molex connector and monitor off the DFI motherboard CPU FAN header. After this modification, my CPU temperatures dropped about 10°C at full load with StressCPU. Better yet, my idle temperatures went down about 5°C, and PWM and chipset temps dropped 2-3°C as well with the fan in the “suck up” direction. Installation was easier than expected, but the XP-90 base wasn’t very smooth. I probably put too much AS5 on there to overcompensate in panic, but that is going to wait until I feel like lapping or replacing it with a new CPU and XP-120. 6) At this point the stock nVidia 6800 GT fan was the biggest noise source. Time to put in the Arctic Cooling NV Silencer 5 Rev.2! Start time: 2:00 PM PDT. Consumer Packaging: It looks attractive, but it is almost impossible to open. That plastic is tough! I used 10cm scissors and a lot of 20kg pulling and it still was a struggle to mangle it open. You would have to use an Exacto or Dremel to open the package and make it salvageable for resale. Elapsed time to open: 5 minutes! Ecological and psychic damage: immeasurable. Still, I should have taken this as a forewarning that this was to be the easiest step. Instructions: The video card in the installation pictures is obviously an ATI card, so step 1 and 2 didn’t apply. I figured out how to remove the stock GPU HSF assembly using intuition. You really need 3 different size Philips head screwdrivers to do the job right. The rest of the instructions are basically correct, except Arctic Cooling assumes it’s going to fit! The best guide I found was at http://www.nvnews.net/reviews/arctic_coole...cer/index.shtml. Unfortunately, I found this information after I tried to install the NV Silencer 5 the first time! Installation: As the reviewer Clay Angelly found, the BFG voltage regulator heatsink interferes with the bottom of the fan casing. If you have a thin black heatsink strip near the Molex connector on your 6800 GT/UT, you might have problems installing this cooler without lots of work. The silver heatsinks on some 6800 GT brands seem to be shorter and may give you no problems. A trial fit of the HS on the card proved to me that there were visible light gaps between the HS and the RAM chips on one side that even the Arctic Cooling 1mm thick TIM pads weren’t able to bridge. After deciding it was indeed the voltage regulator heatsink that was the main mounting issue, I removed it! I put some AS5 on the two GPU areas using the regular CPU/HS TIM application method (modified Angry Game technique), removed the protective plastic from the TIM pads for the RAM on the HS, and mounted the card on the HS. I had to run all 4 HS mounting nuts to their limit in order to get reasonable contact pressure for the GPU and RAM pads, but the GPU does get good contact and the thick RAM pads do sort of touch both the HS and RAM. The clock says 5 PM PDT, over 3 hours since I’ve started this “simple upgrade”. I reinstall the card and cooler, plug everything back in with the case open, and boot into Windows without any problem. It’s really quiet! And nVidia ForceWare is showing me GPU core temperatures 2-4°C lower than stock! What about those voltage regulators with the now-missing heatsink? Hmm … I can’t reach them from the top of the card now with my fingertip, but I can touch the bottom side of the board opposite of those chips. Ouch, it’s hot… way too hot to keep my finger there for long. This is worrisome. I run a 3DMark01, just to see if capacitors start exploding or smoke starts pouring out of the card. They must have put that heatsink there for a reason, right? 10 hours into the “simple install”, it is midnight, and I’m pulling everything apart again. I grind the tops of the voltage regulator heatsink fins down about 1.5mm using a small metal file, then I carefully remove the plastic insulators from the bottom of the heatsink and filed down the mounting base about 0.3mm so that I could get better contact pressure without using TIM pads. Next I sanded down the tops of the plastic pushpin retainers for the heatsink by about 1mm using a Dremel sanding wheel, then finishing with a nail file emery board to remove the chaff. Wash and blast with canned air, apply and spread Arctic Silver Ceramique in tiny amounts (1/4 mice-turd) on the tops of each cleaned voltage regulator IC, spread evenly using the edge of a credit card trimmed to a narrow tip. Clean the mating surface of the heatsink, stick the plastic insulators back between the mounts and the card, lower into place and mate, pop the modified plastic pushpins back in for the umpteenth time. Dry mount the HS on the card, verify indeed we have a nice 1mm of clearance on the pushpins, close to 1.5mm on the fins now. Phew, that little mod only took about 3 hours! Now it is 3 AM PDT and finally time to try to mount the Silencer the second time. Against all recommendations, I put a tiny layer of Artic Silver Ceramique on each RAM top just to make sure those TIM pads were going to interface with something thermally conductive! I put a thinner layer of AS5 on the GPU surfaces, based on the previous coverage pattern. Screw on the back-plate retention nuts, again tightening them all down to the stops using finger tension. Reinstall the card, power up! OMG, its 5 AM! It took 15 hours to install! But my rig is now quieter than my reference noise generator (a Dell 8200 workstation) and everything is running cooler than before! My Conclusions: Pros: The Arctic Cooling NV Silencer 5 did indeed eliminate my 6800 GT screaming fan problem. Other noise sources are higher now than the GPU cooler, and those are pretty quiet. I would guess my rig is around 32-35 dBA now compared to 40-45 dBA before. GPU cooling appears quite effective, especially at full load. I use to hit over 70°C GPU core but now I can’t seem to get over 61°C even running several 3D games and benchmarks at once. I give the setup high marks for being cool and quiet compared to the stock HSF. Cons: It took 15 hours to install (more like nerve-wracking precision re-engineer on a $500 card) and it’s still not really installed right. Even with the voltage regulator heatsink modified to avoid interference with the fan cowling, the GPU RAM will never approach mating closer than 1mm because the GPU is fully mated before the RAM gets near the base. I should note that even after all that paranoia about how hot the voltage regulators were and customizing the heatsink to fit, the bottom of the board is still too hot to touch for long under those chips. The modified chip heatsink is also hot to the touch, so at least the ICs apparently have decent thermal transfer after all that work. I would rate this installation as Difficulty 9 (Trial & Error + Dremel time). If I had to do it again, I would start with a 6600 GT instead of the 6800 GT. Out of the box, the 6600 GT is going to have lower cost, power, heat, and noise than the 6800 GT without giving up much speed.
  17. I haven't had much luck OC'ing with the 8x or 9x multipliers; 10x seemed much more friendly. My Winchester seems to like 1.48v ([email protected]%) for 260x10. More volts actually hurt my stability or just ran hotter for no improvement. Below about 1.45 volts I get erratic POST and sometimes Windows won't load. I know the Newcastle's like a touch more volts, but I suspect the voltage sweet spot is a similarly small range. Finicky beasts indeed!
  18. Example from my testing this week: I thought I had a stable OC at 260x10 after running Memtest for 10 loops and then Prime95 for 8 hours. Well, it turned out I just didn't run Memtest #8 long enough! No errors in 30 minutes, but at 45 minutes I got 2 errors on test #8. At the 2-hour mark I got another 12 errors. Then zero errors for the next 2 hours. Still, I wasn't satisified with even a few errors, so it was back to playing with the DRAM timing. After a few days of fiddling, I finally achieved Memtest stability on test #8 using 1T-3-3-8-3 timing. Boot into Windows to check with OCCT: Kaboom! OCCT failed in 2 seconds flat! So I learned that just because it looks golden in Memtest doesn't mean it's going to pass Prime or OCCT. Back to the BIOS. After a few more days of testing I'm at 1T-2.5-4-8-4 (about what my RAM is spec'd for at DDR520). This has been stable on Memtest #8 for over 12 hours, and Prime95/OCCT stable for over 8 hours so far (still testing). From this I learned that whenever I make a BIOS change, first make sure it's going to pass Memtest #8 for at least 10 loops, then make sure it's going to pass Prime95/OCCT/SuperPi. Then back to MemTest #8 for at least 8 hours, followed by Prime95/OCCT/StressCPU for at least 8 hours, plus some 3D/Aquamarks to make sure it's game stable. If that still looks good, I'd repeat the tests except for 24 hours each. At that point it's good enough for me to trust for long-term use. 24/7 stability can be elusive when you are pushing the chips hard, but it's worth it!
  19. Angry_Games post on the SVC special for the XP-90 pushed me over the edge, as well as the temps and noise of the stock HSF at full load. I also bought some Nexus "Real Silent Case Fans" from siliconacoustics.com to play with in my search for a reasonably quiet/cool/fast sweetspot. So far I'm really happy with the XP-90, though the base could have a nicer finish. I think the Zalman's base looks better polished/machined from the ones I've seen at Fry's compared to my XP-90 sample, which had visible grooves. Installation was easier than expected; the clip doesn't really take that much pressure to engage and there is enough room for my fingers to do the job with the XP-90. Removing the OEM DFI retention bracket and installing the Thermalright one is trivial, in retrospect I could have done it without removing the mobo since the hex nuts on the back didn't fall out as expected! CPU temps fell from 51-52°C max load to 44-45°C. I tried mounting the fan to blow down on the HS as well as suck upward. With blow down, I got lower CPU temps but the chipset and PWMIC temps went up to higher than the stock HSF. In the "suck up" direction I got a lower chipset and PWMIC temp than with the stock HSF, plus the nice 6-7°C CPU temp drop. Lapping the XP-90 so I could use less AS5 would probably lower CPU temps few more °C, but I'm going to save that project for a rainy day
  20. There is a new PDF manual (http://www.dfi.com.tw/Upload/Manual/lputnf4%20847505101.pdf). They now have a table on page 62 with more information about recommended amps as well as watts.
  21. chenid0, for me I got about 100mHz (260x10 vs. 250x10) gain. I could do 260x10 with the stock HSF, but it wasn't rock stable for 24/7 use and the CPU temperature would hit over 51°C running Prime95. Even at 250x10, I wasn't happy with the stock HSF cooling or fan noise at full load. With the XP-90, my CPU temperatures under load are never higher than 45°C and 260x10 is rock solid. The Nexus fan runs at 1700 RPM and is about as silent as a fan can be while still moving some air (27 CFM). I am sure I could drop the temperatures another 1-2°C using a noisier fan like the Panaflo and by lapping the heatsink. I had to use more AS5 than I liked (probably way too much) because the heatsink base was grooved like a diffraction grating!
  22. You might check out this thread: http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4177
  23. I'd avoid the nVidia firewall, you don't need it with an external firewall with decent settings and it's one more thing to go wrong.
  24. Hey, I got this rig just so I could play EVE without getting killed! I haven't seen you in EVE help in awhile, but glad to know it's the same AG
  25. Hahahah! I was dreaming last night of an 8-track 5.25" bay retro mod last night. Or was that a nightmare.
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