Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About shira

  • Rank
  1. When you say "extra", are you referring to connectors beyond the normal 4? And if so, where on the MB are these extra ones? Photo?
  2. Success! No USB devices. But after moving the video card to the other slot and re-clearing CMOS, I booted into setup, stored optimized defaults, and on the re-boot, got a successful, complete boot (no lights). Thanks, Dynomutt! Now on to steps 10, 11, 12 . . . . What fun!
  3. So here's the history: My first-boot setup: CPU, cooler, and fan Single stick of memory video card All four power connections in place - triple checked. I was continually stuck at three lights on my first boot regardless of the memory configuration (both sticks of memory tried in all slots; I also tried both sticks together in both yellow and orangle slots; and I tried a different brand of memory). So I tried doing the clear CMOS procedure. On the next boot attempt, I got down to one light. So it looks like the memory is okay. But stuck on one light. However, I WAS able to get into setup. So I loaded optimized defaults, saved, and exited. On the next boot, stuck at three lights again. Any ideas on what to try next?
  4. So one thing I might try is purchasing some cheap PC-3200 memory to make absolutely sure it's not an issue with BOTH sticks of the OCZ memory. Any suggestions as to cheap PC-3200 memory that will normally boot correctly? One other question: I physically replaced the stock BIOS with a pre-flashed 704-BT BIOS. I didn't do the clear CMOS procedure because I figured nothing had been set in the first place. But maybe that's incorrect. Thoughts?
  5. Phew! That's a relief. I've been assuming I trashed my $550 CPU. As to the other stuff: I got a pre-flashed 704-BT BIOS (there's a fellow on these forums who for $15 will send you any pre-flashed BIOS you want), and that's what I'm booting with. I thought I might avoid problems by doing this. :confused: My board is Rev AB0, so I don't know what the stock BIOS is that comes with this board (I'll bet it's the 5/10 BIOS). I've tried dual-channel in both the yellow and orage slots. And I've tried a single stick in every one of the four slots. I always get three lights. What can be wrong? The Ninja is a clip on. But I slightly un-bent the "flexy" things that apply the tension to the hooks that engage the mounting bracket So the tension was reduced somewhat as I installed the cooler. Still, the pressure on the core cannot have been gentle. Not to hijack my own thread, but there's an X2 IHS-removal thread in the overclocking section that discusses using clip-on coolers as bolt ons. However, I found that it was impossible to "bolt on" an XP-90/mounting-bracket combination (the mounting screws are too short). And with the Ninja, you can't access the screw heads with the cooler hooked into the bracket.
  6. Just an idle question: The fact that I'm getting down to three lights, does that mean the CPU is definitely okay? I ask because, as you can see from my sig, I removed the IHS from the CPU and mounted the big Ninja HSF on it. I "pre-flexed" the Ninja rentention clips to reduce the force on the CPU as I mounted the HSF, but I worry that, as careful as I was, I might have crushed the core. Is "CPU detected" the same as "CPU functional"?
  7. Unfortunately, no. However, since I've tried each stick individually, unless BOTH sticks are defective (which seems kind of unlikely), it's hard to believe it's the RAM.
  8. I've tried every combination of 1 stick of RAM. Also, I don't see how I can increase Vdimm if I can't even boot.
  9. So I finally am doing my system build. System specs are in my sig. For my first boot, I have: Cpu, cooler, and fan. one stick ram (also tried with two sticks) video card All four power connections are in place (checked and re-checked) When I try to boot, the first of the four lights immediately goes out (but flickers on and off a couple of times after that), and I'm left with three, solid diagnostic lights. From what the manual says, I assume this means the system can't detect the RAM. To check out the RAM issue I've tried: A single stick of RAM in all four RAM slots (I've tried all four RAM slots with each of the sticks) I've also tried two sticks in the yellow slots and two sticks in the orange slots. Same result each time: stuck on three lights. Ideas?
  10. With IHS-side down, I basically submerged the CPU in Goo Gone up to the base of the pins. I soaked the CPU overnight (about 12 hours). The stuff has a cloying, citrus smell, and the odor filled up my room until I opened up a window and turned on a fan. Anyway, I rinsed the CPU with 99% (anhydrous) isopropyl alchohol (there's an eBay seller that sells this really pure stuff), and went at it with a thin, double-edge razor blade (with one side taped off with about six layers of masking tape). The hardest part of this procedure is holding the CPU firmly between your thumb and index finger without putting pressure on the edge pins. But I was able to complete everything without bending a single pin. The easiest place to start is at a corner of the IHS - you can get the corner of the razor in pretty easily there. And it was extremely easy to slice around the peripery. After I got all the way around, I expected the IHS to just lift off (or fall off - I had IHS-side down as I performed this procedure), but it didn't. I assumed that maybe I hadn't cut deeply enough. So I went around a second, third, fourth, and fifth time, cutting a little deeper each time. The trouble is, I think there's a bit of a vacuum effect, so even though the IHS is completely severed from the CPU, suction is still holding it on. And the razor blade is SO thin, you can't get any leverage with it to pry off the IHS. So after completing five-circuits around the CPU with the razor with no satisfaction, I got a thin paring knife (MUCH stiffer than the razor) and gently inserted the edge of the blade at one corner (by this point, there were several locations where there was a clear separation between the IHS and CPU). And the IHS just fell off. In retrospect, I probably should have tried this after just a couple of circuits. It's hard to say what contribution the Goo Gone had - the cutting was very easy, but maybe with this thin razor blade that would have been the case even without soaking the CPU in the solvent. Just remember to take things very slowly.
  11. I have a feeling that ANY decent solvent will do the job, as long as it's "silicon safe". Home Depot carries a product called Goo Gone that I'm soaking my X2 in as I write this, but I'll bet that a good soak in acetone would prove effective, too.
  12. I have both an XP-90 and a Scythe Ninja "in waiting". I tried pre-assembling the cooler and retention bracket with both of them as you suggested, and I see what you mean. With the Ninja, getting access to the screws to tighten down the combined unit is going to be a little tough (the screws are almost covered by the heat pipes). The Ninja is supposed to be the new champion of air coolers, but it's pretty heavy (something over 600 grams, I think). Think it's worth the risk?
  13. Because the IHS is no longer the contact "platform" for the CPU cooler, how is it possible that the base of the cooler sits low enough to make good contact with the core? It would seem that the base of the cooler will be too high by an amount equal to the thickness of the metal of the IHS. A related question: Is the weight of the cooler a consideration? I'm assuming the core supports the entire weight of the cooler. That being the case, might the weight of the CPU cooler be critical?
  14. What do you think of the following as a proposed method of using a clip-down cooler on an IHS-removed CPU?: Remove the IHS and then (using a dremel tool) cut out a rectangular area from its top surface that just matches the dimensions and position of the core. The idea would be to create a mask that exposes the core, but otherwise allows the IHS to protect the rest of the CPU. Once the rectangular area is removed, I'm guessing it would be necessary to sand down the lip (underside) of the IHS so that when the IHS is placed back on the CPU, the core (through the cut-out area) could rise high enough to make contact with the cooler through the hole. That is, with the IHS placed back on the CPU, you want the top of the core to be just a tiny bit higher than the level of the top surface of the IHS. With this configuration, I would think the IHS would absorb most of the stress when the cooler was clipped on. But the trick would be getting the IHS shaved down just the right amount so that good contact between the core and cooler could be achieved.
  • Create New...