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battery

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  1. no problem, keep me up to date and i will do my best to guide you through the steps.
  2. it should be called intel speed step in the bios, you may also need to disable C1E to make it work. which isn't necessarily a bad idea anyway. there was a known bug awhile back about this.
  3. you certainly hit it hard enough for one day. take a break, relax, pat yourself on the back and hit again tomorrow. you still have your memory to overclock too!
  4. ahh thats intel speedstep where it lowers your multiplier when your cpu is idle. there is an option in the bios somewhere to turn this off. i would raise the multi in .5 increments.
  5. too much too fast. gotta get 3.8 before you go for 4. thems the rules.
  6. thats what memory dividers are for! 3.5 is great, 3.8 is better!
  7. i would try to get your fsb to 400, and then raise your multiplier until you lose stability.
  8. i'm sorry, i didn't mean to say that you should set it to 9. i was trying to give an example so that you understood what it did. although 9 is a pretty common multiplier.
  9. congrats! push that bad boy to the limits! this is overclockers club
  10. 67xx will overclock higher and run cooler than the 57xx series and cost less than the 68xx.
  11. "The 800 MHz PC-6400 DDR2 runs at 5-6-6 timings" i would set your memory back to default timings before attempting to overclock your processor. the best thing to do is to overclock one thing at a time. when you raise your fsb you're overclocking your processor and your memory at the same time. so as you increase your fsb you should adjust your memory divider to keep it as close to stock at possible (error on the low side rather than the high side.) now your cpu ratio is the your multiplier. so a setting of 9 here and a setting of 333 on your fsb would give you a 2997 mhz clock speed on your processor. cpu vid is the voltage adjustment for your processor i'm assuming by fsb start you mean fsb strap. in the past this used to determine your trd or common performance level as its called by asus. i believe in most cases with the latest bios you can adjust the trd independently, however this may not be true in your case. it also controls what memory dividers are available to you. cpu GTLREF is pretty tricky to explain. this was taken from Tom's Hardware "CPU/NB GTL Voltage Reference: CPU: Auto, 0.63x, 0.61x, 0.59x, and 0.57x. NB: Auto, 0.67x, and 0.61x. CPU Gunning Transceiver Logic (GTL) voltages are nothing more than reference levels that the CPU uses when determining if a data or address signal is either high (1) or low (0). Precision voltage dividers generate these voltages and are usually specified as a percentage of VTT. In the case of 0.67, this would be 67% of VTT. For example, if VTT is 1.20v then a CPU GTL Voltage Reference of 0.67x would result in a GTLREF value of 0.67 x 1.20V = ~0.80V. These reference values are particularly important when overclocking quad-core CPUs, especially when venturing above about 450FSB. The ability to tune these values per die can mean the difference between 475FSB and 500FSB. Unfortunately, ASUS' implementation of this functionality is rather incomplete as manipulation of only a single GTLREF value is possible (and in a somewhat imprecise manner). The real power in GTLREF tuning comes in the ability to provide each quad-core die with separate reference values. (Recall that current quad-cores are an MCM consisting of two dual-core dies on a single package.)"
  12. temps scale much more with voltage than with clock speed.
  13. well considering its the same core as every other 45nm that are known to run up to ~4.5ghz on air, i hardly think 3.5ghz is cooking it. could prolly run it that high on stock volts or relatively close. the e5xxx series is known to be binned for its low fsb capabilities, not its clockability. its not an allanedale that simply won't run much past 3ghz at all.
  14. pretty simple fix, there are bios settings for both options. i'm not sure what mobo you have or what bios it runs, but the settings should be in there some where
  15. not bad, but i believe you can a little more out of it than that. those things have a pretty high multiplier on them, but if i remember correctly they hit a fsb wall at about 350. iirc i got mine up to about 3.5ghz before it took a quit
  16. i have a h55m-ud2h and i can say that it was amazingly easy to overclock and stable right out of the box. easily one of the best overclocking experiences i have ever had when after an hour of pulling it from the box it had my i3 540 running 4.6ghz on stock volts. now i know this isn't the same board as you, but i would expect great things. also your video will fit on the board sure, but will it fit in the case? thats the real question.
  17. i use autoFLAC to rip. winamp to play.
  18. either download the bootable .iso or the auto installer. burn the iso to a disk or use the auto installer on an empty thumbstick and boot the cd/usb drive. once you've booted into it, its pretty straight forward.
  19. well, you're running cas 8 and ddr3 1253...626.7x2 you need to be running 800 to get the ddr3 1600 you were looking for. also as someone suggested. memtest is a great way to test memory stability
  20. i bought my 37" tv for under 200 bucks. i suggest finding a crack head near you.
  21. www.cpuid.com grab cpu-z, go to the memory tab.
  22. set all your memory settings to auto. put one of each in each colored slot. your mobo should detect the spd settings and adjust to the weakest one.
  23. xai, g500, g9x all have the same sensor...razor is using the sensor too but i can't remember what product it is.
  24. battery

    Starcraft II

    if anyone is on, i'm looking for a practice partner. my info is above just add me and msg me.
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