Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Infinity

  1. I guess my system will stay on the NF4:tooth: My LP NF2 croaked last week, so I see no reason to upgrade: Swiftech MCP 350 Swiftech MCW-6000 Swiftech MCW-50 K BIP 2 with 4 Evercool aluminum fans I'm just going to rework my Stacker to better hold the cooling system, then mod the hell out of my Sonata for a future h2o project. I wanna make a small server, watercooled, all internally in an Antec Sonata- just because the case is beautiful, and I got it for $50 brand new:D
  2. Have you checked all capacitors on your board? When one blows, it'll sound like a small bomb. You should hear one of those 1Farad ones made for car audio when it goes
  3. According to AG, these boards HATE Hynix RAM. I have some older Hynix sticks from HardcoreCooling (pc4000) that won't run at all, but work perfect in a Soltek QBic. Go figure.
  4. Boot it with one stick in slot 2. Go into BIOS, load optimized defaults and reboot. Shut down and install the second stick. Start it and go back into BIOS and tweak away.
  5. An automatic-reset breaker in the PSU? I'm unfamiliar with Enermax's lineup, so I don't really know. Maybe it was the mother of all static charges?
  6. Check with AG. He has a pair of my Corsair C2's he's been testing. Maybe he'll have some insight. Mine ran fine up to about HTT300 in dual channel, but I had stability trouble in Windows which I'm accrediting to myself being a dumbass. Other than that they ran fine. I also ran at 1T.
  7. Or, you could just get a Meanwell PSU. Or, buy a cheap modular (those Ultras are being shown for like $20 now) since I expect you'll be using it for just some cooling/accessories?
  8. Sounds like the BIOS died. Can you hotflash, or get a new chip?
  9. Before I toasted my MF2, I was running a Plextor 716SA with absolutely no issues. I just plugged it in and it went. Obviusly, YMMV, but it went fine for me.
  10. Yes, the supplied adapter works beautifully.
  11. I like 1 or 2. If you are at anytime planning to add the second video card for SLI, please consider the Seasonic 600 also.
  12. Weird, mine was doing that when I changed my RAM, and then I cleared CMOS again, and it went great. Do you have a multimeter? Just to make sure your PowerStream didn't die?
  13. Well, now I at least have it running with proper voltages. Thanks again, Playah.
  14. Sweet. That helps. Now, am I better off to bump up VCore, or add %'s through the Special?
  15. Cathar himself (maker of the original Storm) has said that some improvements were made when Swiftech bought it. He also said that quality should be more consistant because Swiftech is the best manufacturer for high quality blocks (his words). He seems to believe that their machining ability is above other companies, and I think I will agree with that. Now, Swifty needs to release a GPU block that will match up with the Storm on flowrate, and I'll move my 3/8" system to my NF2, and go with the 7/16" and the new stuff on my NF4.:drool::drool::drool:
  16. Thanks Playah. I can figure percentages in my head (math goofball, it's kinda neat at times), but I'm not sure WHEN to use each setting. I should've been more clear. Basically, right now I'm reading 1.45V at my CPU through ITE (which has been shown very accurate on my setup with a Fluke MM). I need to know how to properly bump that to usability. BTW, I saved that chart anyway, 'cuz it should be pretty useful. Thanks
  17. Can you run Prime or OCCT for extended periods? MemTest is not a really good indicator of true memory performance, as I have found. Prime blend test has been showing my errors much moreso that MemTest. What is your VCore sitting at?
  18. Wow. How did you get the PWMIC so low? My chipset and IC run much higher.
  19. For anyone else (not OP)- if you have a PRE RevE core, always choose the 2x1G over 4x512. There may be a handful of isolated instances, but the pre-E cores don't even LIKE running 4 sticks. If you can get them to work, you'll likely be at HTT333 and 2T. IF they'll run at all. You may now go back to your regularly scheduled thread.
  20. On my Clawhammer, optimized default gives it 1.45 or less volts. I know stock on this one is 1.5v, and it will fail Prime after about 6 hours with less. My question, how do I set the voltage properly with this BIOS? It has a handful of voltage settings that all seem to do the same thing, instead of just saying "voltage = 1.6" or something. I guess I need to know, how do I set: Startup VID Special VID Vcor (can't remember right off what exactly it was called) Maybe if I can understand the way the voltage works, I can actually overclock this CPU, which is apparently pretty power hungry.
  21. It will run higher FSB's. I've run 275x9 with my XMS4400 in there, but it doesn't stabilize at 280 (whereas the memory will do 300+). I'll be messing with it soon. Right now it's running sweet and stable, whereas my second machine isn't. I need to fix it before I mess with this one (in case I bork something, I can find out how to fix it )
  22. I cannot flash the BIOS, as it won't even POST. There are no leaks, and the system is factory sealed. I'm going to be playing with it some more real soon. I will determine for sure what is wrong with it. SInce I don't have the money to purchase the new parts right now, I'll have plenty of time to play with it. Close visual inspection shows that the 3 large caps below the ZIFF socket appear to be leaning towards the bottom of the board. Maybe I bent one and messed up the connection? I'll see if I can get a board that I can hotflash from and give it a shot. What can I possibly lose?
  23. I have some new hardware coming for mounting my H2O block (it started as a Corsair COOL system I won at a LAN). I may pull the IHS when I redo this case. Do you now just treat the chip like we did the Athlon XP's in regards to the bare core?
  24. You forgot the Swiftech Storm waterblock, and their new "kit", which could possibly be the end-all of pre-configured watercooling kits. Add a GPU block of choice (I'd go Maze-4 with 1/2" barbs since Swiftech's block is optimized for 3/8") and you have one hell of a setup. It'd be near impossible to beat the performance for the price. EDIT: N/M, I see the Storm block on the first graph at ProCooling. For those who are wondering Cathar's Little River Storm G4 was licensed by Swiftech, and now actually provides BETTER results, at a lower price. I still stand by my kit recommendation
  • Create New...