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Everything posted by spdiscus

  1. For about a week, now, I've been getting network cable unplugged popups. If I have a download going on this PC, it is immediately killed when the popup appears. My laptop, which is running wireless to the same router, and running the same firewall (ZoneAlarm) has had no problems. I just tried to download Ubuntu on both the PC and the laptop; the laptop downloaded all 600MB on the first attempt, and the PC quit after about 2MB (each of my 15 or 20 attempts). What I've tried: 1) Rebooting the router 2) Switching the connection I'm using (nVidia and Marvell) 3) Re-entering the manual MAC addresses in the BIOS 4) Yelling at it 5) Disabling the firewall 6) Switching router ports Nothing's worked. Has anyone else seen these popups? Any solutions?
  2. Just before the computer returns to functionality, does the monitor turn off for a second or two? If so, we have the exact same problem. I usually see it when running Thunderbird and WMP or iTunes. I don't have a solution, but I've always assumed it was my PSU. I have a spare sitting around, but I'm too lazy to swap. *BUMP*
  3. VID Startup is applied through POST. VID Special x VID Control is applied once the OS takes over.
  4. You could also try jumping into the folder and allowing everyone full permissions. For some reason, SmartGuardian stopped working with one of my users, and that was the error it produced. Allowing everything for everyone fixed it.
  5. That looks exactly like my 7000. I'd thought the 7700 was a lot bigger, but I stand corrected.
  6. It covers the top (non-video) PCI-E slot, and, from what I've heard, isn't as good as the XP-90 with a nice fan. I'd go for that (if I were starting over).
  7. Next time you're jogging down a street, have someone else change your shoes for you. An ankle will be twisted, and one of you will end up on the ground. Best bet is to stop running, sit down, and do it yourself. nTune is going through the Windows cloud and deciding, based on an extra layer of software readings, how hard you can push your hardware. I don't let Windows programs play my most shameful DVDs, so there's no way I'm going to let one force values into my gear.
  8. There are a few passive solutions I've seen. Try searching for chipset cooling. And 117 -120 isn't that bad.
  9. Not sure about the -1 and -67 (should be temps), but that second screen is a mapping device. You tell it the software to read. It reads the software. You tell it what each number means in hardware terms. You should have the selected software running at the same time.
  10. The bottom slot is never 16x. It is 2x by default, and can be switched to 8x by changing one of the jumpers.
  11. It doesn't run until it gets hot enough to need it (per BIOS setting). One of the BIOS screens has some settings that decide how hot is hot enough to run. I set it low so the fan's always running.
  12. http://hardware.slashdot.org/article.pl?si...1756259&tid=222
  13. ?? Those are CPU voltages, not VC voltages. Are you overclocking that San Diego? What questions do you have about the X850XT?
  14. Save a little money and get the Fortron Blue Storm 500W PSU.
  15. I've heard people say that there's something backwards in the manual; that's probably it. For the install, get rid of one of your RAM sticks, and make sure you're memtest stable with the one you keep. A lot of people have had problems that only occur at XP install (put the other stick back in after install).
  16. Booting to Windows isn't a good test of RAM capability/stability. Use Memtest. Use the divide and conquer method: find individual ceilings for HTT, CPU and RAM, and then try to do the best you can with all three o/c'd at once. Check the stickies for more in-depth information.
  17. As far as hardware goes, it shouldn't cause any problems. Plug it in, jump into BIOS and make sure it didn't set itself as the first boot drive, continue boot. I don't know if XP will set it as the next available drive letter or if it will bump your optical. So, you may end up with D:optical E:320 or D:320 E:optical. My guess would be the latter.
  18. 1) Which Zalman (7000 vs 7700)? 2) What stepping? (Just write down everything that's written on the CPU.) 3) Even with that information, it's largely luck of the draw.
  19. And I haven't been paying that close attention to RAM in recent weeks, but I believe the Rev 2 quality has been declining (as far as o/c-ability). The good ones are binned under a different model name, right?
  20. SATA drives on this controller are shown as removable media (hot-swappable).
  21. That's the 5V jumper, right (if not, ignore the following)? That mosfet is getting one hell of a workout, so it will get extremely hot. Instead of lowering 3.3V to 3.2V, you guys are having it lower 5V to 3.2V. If you aren't going over 3.2, don't use that jumper. If you are using it, active cooling directly on it and the RAM is necessary.
  22. 1a) Set it to 1.5. If it doesn't POST, set it to 1.55. 1b) Different processors seem to react differently. Some people have said that Winnies like the low control and high special, but mine will only run this speed (in sig) if I get to 1.6V using 1.45x1.1. Try both. 2) Memory controller. You're pushing everything harder, so there's no guarantee that it'll work with everything topped off. You could try increasing VCore a bit, but people rarely get max mem and max CPU o/c at the same time.
  23. The date is the version, unless you downloaded a custom BIOS from someone other than DFI. I'm not sure what the best version would be for you. I'm on 4/14-3, but I know a lot of people like the 5/10. For later BIOS, you will see a -1, -2, -3 after them. They represent what RAM table is used. You'll have to search around for specifics.
  24. 1) It sounds like you're on the 1/25 BIOS. Flash to the 3/10. The VDIMM problem can be avoided by using PageUp/PageDown (1/25 had a problem with saving the VDIMM). 2) Why would you set the jumper to go high when your RAM is rated at 2.7? Don't do that.
  25. Don't know about the Dell, but does the iPod still work with the old system? Apple just released a $50 voucher for failing batteries (to avoid class action suit).
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