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god_of_war

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About god_of_war

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  1. Thanks for the replies. Timmay from what i have found searching around i dont think there is any NV Silencer that will fit a 6600gt agp. Ebdoradz thanks for the information. I had considered the VF700ALCUa and Zalmans website says it will fit a 6600gt agp, however its not a perfect fit. You said that is this due to a height issue between the ram and the coolers fins. In addition since your friend did not have an agp and so the pcie to agp converting chip to worry about, do you think that the chip would cause problems with the evercool. If anyone else has any additional information about the computability of a 6600gt agp and an Evercool vc-rhc turbo2 or a Sytrin Kuformula VF1 it would be very much appreciated.
  2. I'm looking at purchasing an aftermarket cooler for my xfx 6600gt agp. However i am having trouble determining the best cooler that will fit, due the to unusual positioning of the core, and the additional agp bridge. The two coolers that I'm interested in are the Evercool vc-rhc turbo2 and the Sytrin Kuformula VF1 . Both manufactures are unclear on the compatibility. I would appreciate if anyone could confirm whether either will fit.
  3. Hi, I’m trying to contact the DFI support (for Europe). I have tried the support form on the website, however have had no joy, don’t think the form works. Would appreciate if someone could provide me with a direct email address.
  4. I have made some more attempts at determining the problem with my computer however have still had no success. I have tried replacing the bios chip, to determine if it is a corrupt bios, however after doing so there was no change to the problem. I also tried swapping out the ram for some DDR PC2100 RAM, however again there was no change. The problem is still that I am unable to enter the bios, and the computer freezes at the screen that says ‘cmos checksum error – defaults loaded’, and has the options ‘press F1 to continue, DEL to enter setup’. Again any help would be much appreciated. In addition could someone provide me with the email address for the DFI support (for Europe) since I have tried contacting them through their website, but it does not seem to work.
  5. ebdoradz thanks for the reply. Unfortunately the power cord is in my 6600GT card.
  6. Unfortunately not, only some old 100mhz SDRAM from a Compaq Proliant 500 Mhz Pentium III server. Would it seem like this is the most likely cause of the problem. Can’t believe my luck if that’s the case, first hard drive goes and then ram.
  7. Thank you playah for the reply. I attempted as you suggested, with a 30 second, 15 minute, couple of hours, and a 24 hour clear. However the board still gets stuck at the screen with the cpu speed and the ide drives information. It says ‘cmos checksum error – defaults loaded’, and has the options ‘press F1 to continue, DEL to enter setup’. However pressing either does nothing, it just freezes. The diagnostic LED’s are on 1:on 2:off 3:on 4:on when the computer freezes, which going off the manual is “testing all memory (clearing all extended memory to 0)”. I also noticed that the beep the computer makes isn’t like a proper beep (like the type you would get if you tried to boot the computer without ram in). The beep is much quieter, and is continuous. Do these symptoms at all suggest a corrupt bios, or can anyone suggest anything else?
  8. Hi, I still haven’t found a solution. Again any help would be very much appreciated. I attempted a long cmos clear (set jumper, removed battery, left for 1 day, put battery back in, reset jumper). Now the message ‘cmos checksum error – defaults loaded’ comes up, and the options ‘press F1 to continue, DEL to enter setup’ appears. However pressing either does nothing, it just freezes.
  9. Hi, I have a problem booting up my Lanparty NFII Ultra B motherboard. When I turn it on the buzzer next to the power and reset switches on the motherboard makes a clicking sound and I am unable to get into the bios. The machine boots, shows the splash screens, and all the other information after that, like the SATA drives, however is unable to boot into windows. The LED’s that show the status of the computer seem to cycle normally, and finish with all 4 LED’s on as they should do. I’m not sure on the reason for this problem, it may be linked to some changes I made to the system. Due to my hard drive failing I had to send it off, and wait for a replacement (which was a different drive). While I was waiting I installed a floppy drive and an old IDE 1 GB hard drive. When I got the replacement hard drive I installed it and turned the computer on. This is when the computer started making the buzzing, at that time I wasn’t sure what was causing it. I experimented by disconnecting devices, but the noise did not go away. In the end I reconnected everything and left it. I came back a couple of hours later and it seemed to have gone away. So I ‘Loaded Optimized Defaults’ and installed windows, since I couldn’t find the cause of the noise if it was not there anymore. Once windows was installed I turned the computer off and left it for a while. When I came back to it after leaving it for 2 days, the problem at the top of this question is what I found. Any help would be much appreciated.
  10. Hi, I am considering upgrading the fans in my case (of which I require 4 92mm). I am interested what people’s opinions are on the dB value of a silent fan. By which I mean the value at which the fan is virtually inaudible, in a normal environment. It is possible to get fans as silent as 9dB but these are usually very expensive. I am interested whether a 20 dB fan I am looking at would be silent enough, but don’t really have a fan with a known dB value to compare it with. Another fan I am looking at is 14.5 dB (however this fan has a lower max cfm value), would this lower dB value make a noticeable change in noise levels? In addition I have been looking at both ball-bearing and sleeve-bearing fans. I would appreciate if people could give there opinion. From what I can conclude ball-bearing are supposed to be better, but would this really be noticeable in terms of the life of the fan. Would it be better to buy a ball-bearing fan that was worse in terms of cfm to dB ratio, compared with a sleeve-bearing fan? Any input would be much appreciated.
  11. Thank you for the replies. I think I will try and mod my 80mm fans to 92mm fans. Placenta thanks for the suggestion of fans, however I’m in the UK so I don’t have access to the wonders of neweggs prices, I can’t seem to even find those fans in a UK shop. ExRoadie thanks for the suggestion. I happen to have a spare 120mm fan, so I will experiment and see if there are any dead spots in my case. Dr_bowtie thanks for the suggestion of fan positioning. However I’m not sure if I am brave enough to cut holes in the side panel of my case. I think I would prefer to first try modding in a less obvious place and see how it goes/looks. I was looking at the fans again and I think that it might not be possible to change one of the 80mm intake fans to a 92mm, however all the rest look do-able. For this reason (to try and keep the cfm into and out of the case the same) I was considering putting an 80mm intake in the bottom back of my case just below the graphics card. I was just interested whether this seems like a good idea, has any one tried this and has it worked? I guess it would be similar to those cases with intakes in the side panel for the graphics card.
  12. Hi, I was going to buy some new fans for my case due to it having rubbish and loud ones at the moment. My case can have 2 x 80mm intake fans and 2 x 80mm outtake fans. I was considering modding these to 92mm fans, since this would increase air flow. I calculated that the difference in air flow through the case would be from 40 CFM with the 80mm fans to 80 CFM with the 92mm fans (when the fans are in silent mode, 20dB). I am interested whether this would be worth it. Will the extra air flow make much difference? Also, I was considering Zalman ZM-F2 and ZM-F1 fans, are these fans any good. For instance in durability, and the noise they make. They do state a dB value (20 dB), however I am interested about the pitch of the noise. Would it be better to look for some panaflo fans, which from what I have heard are very good quality? Any help/input would be much appreciated.
  13. linears4 and CaberNET54 thank you for the replies. I have not had much time to mess with my settings yet but had a quick go. I turned CPC off, set the ram to 2.5-2-2-11 and Vdimm to 2.6, and set Vcore to 1.7. I then started to increase the FSB, I managed to reach 255 with a multiplier of 9 without any errors when priming for 20 mins. As you can see this is much better than I had reach before. I noticed a strange thing though, when I used the prime benchmark I got longer times for 255 x 9 (2295 MHz) at 2.5-2-2-11 compared to 205 x 11 (2255 MHz) at 2-2-2-11, even though the speed of the ram was quicker and the memory bandwidth higher. Do you know of an obvious reason for this, and would it have anything to do with the looser timings? Generally my computer is only stressed when I play games. Therefore I am looking to set up my system to maximise game performance. Would it be better to aim for a higher clock speed or a higher FSB (and therefore memory bandwidth), especially since I only have 512MB of ram?
  14. Hi, I am new to overclocking and need some help with my settings. I managed 209 x 11 at my highest, with vdimm= 2.7, vcore=1.7 and the rest at auto, and timings of 2-2-2-11. I was aiming for a high FSB first and foremost. I am not sure what to do next. I am using CMX512-3200XL. Am I right in saying it uses Samsung TCCD chips? What voltage should I be using for this ram? I have read other posts which state that this ram doesn’t need a very high voltage. In the specifications that are on the Corsair website it states it was tested at 2.75V, is this a good voltage? Also is heat a big issue for ram, since it seems to be for everything else? In addition I have always left the chipset voltage on auto, what would be a good setting for this? Any help would be much appreciated.
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