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Everything posted by tortie

  1. I currently have a probelm with my board and it looks more likely that is a problem with the memory not making proper contact with my memory slots. Can I use contact cleaners safely on my memory and my board?
  2. Nope. Now power whatsoever. The powersupply doesnt run, the fans dont spin. Only the MB LED is on, the memory LED is off. Edit: Now here's an interesting development. I got tired of this POS and I decided to remove 1 stick of memory (the one in slot 3) while the MB light was still on...which the manual specifically states NOT to do , but as I removed the memory, the PC turned on! I completely removed the memory and ran the comp with one stick thinking it was a memory problem and tried turning on the computer again....no go. I reinserted it and removed it while the MB was powered on and the computer started again!! I switched sticks, wouldnt turn on again but I removed the new stick in slot 3 again and my PC turned on! WTF?! I apparently have to turn my PC power on and remove the memory stick in slot 3 order for my PC to work. :mad:
  3. This is a long post, but please bear with me. I have had my rig running smoothly without any problems for a few months now. Yesterday my order for a few new case fans arrived and I decided to lap my CPU and chipset heatsinks (TT Silent tower and vantec cooler respectively). So I disassembled my computer, (the motherboard has to be removed so that I can uninstall the CPU cooler and the chipset heatsink) removed and lapped the sinks, then reassembled it. After finishing installation, I tried powering my PC on, but it wouldnt start, The mobo LED is on but the power supply and the memory LEDs remained off. I rechecked all my connections and after repluging my connections, the computer ran. I ran prime95 for a few hours (had to check if my temps did decrease after lapping ) and everything ran w/o problems. I turned it off and ran a few errands. After returning, I met the same problem, I wont turn on. I rechecked the connections and after rearrainging some cables everything ran fine again. I used the computer for a few hours then turned it off for the night (I usually dont turn my computer off overnight but wanted my thermal paste to set in). I used Arctic Alumina (NOT Arctic Silver 5), so im sure its not a weird electrical short cause by silver-based thermal compounds. Now this morning, I met the same problem again, but it time it wont turn on whatever I do! Things I have tried: 1. I disassembled my PC again, reseated the CPU, cards and memory and made sure everything was connected properly and had no electrical short. 2. I reset the BIOS, still no go. 3. I unplugged the powersupply for a couple of minutes, but still no go. 4. I tried unplugging all the case fans. nada. I dont think its my power supply (30A on +12V) as I was checking the voltages when Irn prime last night and the rails were very stable. Whats wrong here? Any suggestions?
  4. I currently use Thermaltake's SilentTower. While its performance is not spectacular, (my idle temp is 35C and my load temp is 45C) it is extremely quiet. I had to double check to see if the fan was plugged in the first time I installed it
  5. Hi guys, I think one of my hard drives that I have on my RAID array has some bad sectors. Do you know any RAID diagnostic software? Western Digital's own diagnostic software doesnt detect my RAIDed drives.
  6. I once had the PC 3200 OCZ EL Platinums (Rev 1). While the 256MB sticks were superior overclockers (I easily got to 250fsb with them), the 512MB versions were very hard to overclock. I also had problems with them even with just reaching 220FSB no matter what timings and voltages I used or what memory slots they were in. I even tried overclocking with just a single 512 stick... and it still couldnt do what those 2x256 sticks achived.
  7. I used to push mine to 1.7v before I put a vantec heatsink into it. But even now I just push it as high as 1.8v when trying out some new settings with my system. It may go higher than that, but im afraid of running the chipset in ultra high voltages for long periods of time. Currently my system is set with 1.7v on the chipset, anything lower than that and some of those weird OC things creep up again.
  8. For testing purposes, try changing your memory divider to 166 instead of 1:1. If you can increase your FSB with this setting then your its most likely that your memory is the one limiting your overclock, not your CPU. Or you can try increasing your voltages still. Plus also try increasingyour memory voltage. When I used my old memory before, I had tried raising the chipset to 1.8 and my CPU voltage to 1.55 x 113%. I somehow lessend the occurances of this dreaded "dectecting array" problem, but I had to change my memory since I was not comfortable with using high voltages for a long time. Now everythings fine.
  9. Your memory timings 3-3-3-10 and 2.8v is fine. Try putting your SATA hard disk to slots 3 & 4 (near the AGP slot) Instead of slots 1 & 2. Also try raising your chipset voltage to 1.7v and your CPU voltage to 1.5v x 110% or 1.5v x 113%. Put the LDT to 3x. What CPU cooler are you using? Im asking because as you try to raise voltages to get your system to be stable, your CPU in heat up accordingly. If you have an efficient cooler, you have more headroom in your voltages.
  10. You cannot run your motherboard with 3 memory sticks, this will make your system unstable. Its the board's limitation, theres nothing wrong with your board or memory. Remove the extra stick and everything will run fine, if you want bigger memory, you have to get those 1G sticks.
  11. Take note of your BIOS file. In my case I used Oskar's 10/15 BIOS and the filename is n32lda15.bin Now edit the autoexec.bat file in your floppy disk that aflash created and make sure that your bios filename in the autoexec file is the same one as the bios your using.
  12. Most likely a BIOS update will cure your problem. From my experience, the original bios falsely gives high temps. The Lanparty has an auto shutoff function based on its CPU temp readings . Now if the bios falsely reads high temps like 65C+ the board will auto shutoff you computer even though your CPU isn't really that hot. Chances are that when you update your BIOS, the temp readings will be correct 35C-45C and this means it will not shutoff anymore because it would never reach 65C.
  13. Then you could diagram your comp like this, but instead of having an exhaut fan on the top, you'll be having it on the side.
  14. Yes your right. Now it seems 90% certain that the problem is with your video card since it only shows up while playing 3D games. The guy in the other thread mentioned installing a pci soundcard as his cure, are you currently using the onboard sound?
  15. If im not mistaken the rev 2 are TCCD chips? These guys should be able to reach 250.
  16. Try www.1coolpc.com http://www.1coolpc.com/ockit.htm I have bought all my OC thingies from them ever since 1999. They have unbeatable service, try them out.
  17. Try updating or changing your video drivers. In my case, I had to go back to an older videocard driver since the newest one released wsa making some of my games crash. Try running 3DMark on a loop. Even if you pass memtest and prime, playing 3D games is a totally different animal
  18. I use speedfan myself and I can only control 2. The fan header near the ports cant be regulated.
  19. RGone, I havent updated my thread for a while, but those disappearing SATA problems I had happened with my old OCZ EL Platinums (Rev1). I currently dont have the disappearing drive problem, but I dont know what I did to make it go away
  20. So its useless and you wont see any speed increase if you raise the FSB but lower the divider? Is 1:1 wise way to go in Athlon64 overclocking?
  21. Hi. I was using the 9/10 divider when I tried the 275 FSB. Sorry, I posted wrong information. I just corrected my original post.
  22. My computer runs stably at 9x245 at 1:1 memory settings and will also run at 9x275 using the 9/10 divider with added voltage to the CPU, but their 3Dmark scores are nearly identical. Is this normal? I decided to let it run at 9x245 since the temps are lower. Both setups passed the memtest86 without any errors and are prime95 stable. What do you guys suggest?
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