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Everything posted by lilkev715

  1. Good job on the article, but I have one question that is pretty obvious... Why do a article on a DFI NF4 Ultra-D to SLI mod when this was breaking news ~20 months ago??? I did this mod a LONG time ago as demonstrated here. The only difference is the use of the epoxy on the contacts, but that is about it. I guess you were really bored hardnrg .
  2. I'll try to explain this the best that I can. Here is a PSU review from JonnyGuru for a example that fits this scenario pretty good. There are 4 12v rails with a rating of 18amps, but notice that the combined total output of all of the 12v rails is 680watts/~56.66amps. Each individual 12v rail is capable of 18amps, but the total combined cannot exceed ~56amps due to the fact that the main transformer/output caps has a limit. That figure is usually given for the total amount of combined amps for the 12v rails. A PCI-Express video card can consume up to around 150watts max: 75watts from the actual 16X connector and another 75watts from the 6-pin PCI-Express power connector. It depends on the scenario. Lets say in a SLI configuration both PCI-Express power connectors draw power from the same 12v rail... then that particular rail can become overloaded since per the Intel ATX v2.X specs the max amps per 12v rail is 20amps. The 4/8pin 12v CPU power connector usually has its own dedicated 12v rail. The other rails are for the ATX connector, molex, sata, PCI-express, etc. The manufacturer decides on how to distribute the connectors on which rail. Usually the only way to know which power connectors are on which label is to open up the PSU and take a look where the groups of 12v wires are soldered onto the PCB. They will be labeled 12v1, 12v2, etc. The output caps can only supply so much power, hence they are given a uF (microfarad) rating. When the power draw exceeds the output rating of the capacitor the PSU cannot supply enough power, usually resulting in a reboot/freeze of the system. Again it has to do with the power draw. With a large single 12v rail the manufacturer has to use a higher rated output capacitor (which costs more obviously). The idea behind multiple 12v rails from the ATX spec is purely for safety reasons. By caping the total 12v output per rail to 20 amps (or lower) the risk of a cap exploding, etc. from heavy power draws is reduced.
  3. Have you tried any other DVD movies to see if the problem is persistent? Is your Die hard DVD a pressed commercial version or a DVD +/- R copy?
  4. As stated before this has been posted before.. however I'll give a few thoughts about it. No references to which audio codec chip, processor, etc. it uses. Its availability of "coming soon" has been like that for a long time. Nothing but marketing info for that particular webpage, no real detailed specs. Until there are real legit reviews of one, its pretty much vaporware for now.
  5. First off your initial info is lacking some important details... What kind of internet connection is it? Cable, DSL, etc. Is there a router? switch, hub? Is the ethernet cable going directly from the modem to the computer, or to a router/switch/hub first? Please give us a little bit more info on the setup to see if we can determine if its a hardware or software problem. Any model numbers/manufacturer info of the network equipment would be helpful as well.
  6. He is absolutely right. Wattage meters are handly (I have a Kill-A-Watt myself) but the meters only measure AC draw, not DC power draw. The highest PSU AC to DC efficiency I have seen is around 83-85%, and that PC P&C PSU is nowhere near 80% efficient, so around 75% is a good number to go by. So.... 537 watts AC X 75% efficiency (or 537 X 0.75) = ~402 watts DC
  7. Wow only one reply from one member and its a done deal? First off, I've browsed through the linked reviews and they are all crap reviews. Not to say that the products sucks... but their testing methodology, etc. isn't worthy of being called a "review" but rather a preview. The very short list of REPUTABLE power supply testers are: Jonny Guru Jason Rabel @ Extreme Overclocking Mike Chin @ SPCR Oleg @ X-Bit Labs and maybe one or two more people that I don't know off hand. The above reviewers stick the the scientific method of testing, use real usable loads, AC to DC efficiency ratings, crossloading, etc. Also... what kind of rig are you going to be running? That has a BIG factor in determining which PSU you should looking for.
  8. I see my original discovery/implementation of the Evercool VC-RE on the DFI NF4 mobos has been a huge success here. Perhaps a little credit Happy Games?
  9. You have to set your calculator to Degree mode first, it is set to Radian mode by default. Or you can convert radians to degrees, or vice versa. radians--> degrees: (180)/(pie)(radians) degrees--> radians: (pie)(radians)/(180) Hope this helps you out.
  10. The only accurate way to guage your UPS needs is to have a wattage meter like a Kill-A-Watt meter. I am going to give some theorhetical examples to help you guage your needs. Suppose your system uses around 100watts DC when idling and 200watts DC while under load (gaming, etc.) However DC does not equal AC. If you system uses 100watts DC while idle, your PSU consumes around 142.85 watts AC (assuming a AC to DC conversion efficiency of 70%). Also, I am assuming your Antec PSU has no Active PFC, but rather passive or no PFC at all your Power Factor (PF) would be 0.60 for example. If your PSU consumes 142.85watts AC, then it will consume 238.083 VA (what your UPS is rated by). For the 200watt DC load, it would be 285watts AC, therefore 475 VA. Those numbers are only for the PC (theorhetical, your numbers will vary). CRT monitors typically consume 120-200watts AC, with a PF of 0.50. Again you wont know the numbers for your setup without a AC wattage meter like the one I linked above. My advice? It sounds like the current UPS you have will be easily overloaded or wont last very long at all.
  11. The lowest-priced "budget" PSU that I would recommend is a Fortron 400watt PSU for $40. Pretty much any other lower-priced PSU would be too much of a liability for your entire system.
  12. What is up with the overuse of acronyms? Will it really kill you to type in a few extra keystrokes?
  13. KB is right, you cannot run SLI on a 945 chipset. The extra 16X slot (wired for 1X/2X/4X bandwidth electrically) is only there mainly if you want to run a secnd video card for extra displays, or another PCI-Express device. A little off topic, but the upcoming 975X chipset (with 2 physical 16X slots) will support ATI's crossfire technology, but it will not support Nvidia's SLI technology.
  14. Thanks for the info chavalcito, I changed the IP of the second router and enabled the DHCP server. The PC hooked up to the laptop can now pull a IP address, but that is about it. Both the laptop/PC are on the same workgroup if you are curious. I can ping both routers from the PC hooked up to the laptop, but I cannot access the internet. I am assuming I gotta change IE/firefox connection settings on the PC now?
  15. Before I go any further let me show you what I am trying to acomplish. Pictures help out a lot more at first when trying to explain something structured like a LAN setup. Just a FYI the Router IP's are setup that way because Windows ICS sets the server network device to a IP of ; a common IP of many routers. Ok I am trying to acomplish some Wifi to LAN bridging/ICS as shown in the pic above. I have tried enabling ICS for the WiFi connection, but it says: I can setup a wired ad-hoc network to communicate between the PC's (both running XP Pro SP2), but I can't get ICS to work. When the two PC's are setup in a wired ad-hoc mode and I try bridging the WiFi/Lan together on the laptop the Wifi connection cuts out. I know you guys are probably thinking why not just use a long ethernet cable? Well I would but the location of the PC is not setup ideally for a long ethernet cable. Also I don't have a spare Wifi card for the PC. This setup that I want to do would only be temporary for a day or two at the most. Any Ideas?
  16. A few suggestions for ya Anthony: 1) The grounding wire attached to the cd-rom drive looks really out of place. Either attach it to the other side (right side) or onto one of the mobo standoff screws (what I did). Additionally you could run it along with #3 below. 2) Pull the sleeving on the ATX connector back towards the main connector, the visible wires looks out of place. 3) The 8-pin EPS 12v/6-pin PCI-Express "adapter" cable can be moved into a different place. You could try running the cable alongside the mobo down towards the HD's, then make a turn towards the graphics card. The excess length of wiring can be zip tied and hidden up between the PSU and the optical drive. Other than those its looking good! If you have time later on you could add a additional 80mm exhaust fan on the mobo tray, but of course you would have to take your system apart.
  17. How come you didn't get a 939 Opteron instead??? Venice CPU's don't oc nearly as good as the Venus cores (aka San Diego).
  18. Despite what vCore you set in the BIOS the ACTUAL vCore is different as detailed in this thread.
  19. All 4 of my TCCD sticks can do 270+ in pairs, but can't do much more than 245mhz @ 2T. Parts are in my sig.
  20. How anal are you about your wifi security? WEP is of course is a joke. WPA/WPA2 is fine with TKIP/PSK as long as your key is at least 20 random letters/numbers. Anything more like AES is complete overkill. How many reports have you heard of a good WPA key being cracked? None if very little at all.
  21. What makes you assume your current PSU can't handle your system? Have you checked your voltages with a digital multimeter? If your voltages are fine then don't bother spending more money on a PSU. If however your voltages are not up to par then you might want to consider upgrading. Again check your voltages with a digital multimeter first.
  22. Why does it seem that a lot of people must insist on modular cables? If you know what you are doing with wire management you can organize regular cables very neatly as well. Here is what I stated in another thread: Not to mention that modular cables increase electrical resistance, thereby lowering voltages..... Not to mention creating a additional point of failure if it ever happened. If you have to have modular cables, I would go with the Enermax liberty or a Antec Neopower HE series.
  23. First you obviously need to capture the video. After that is done, you need to encode the video into DVD format. I use NeroVision Express with the DVD plugin to encode video for buring to DVD later. After the video is encoded into DVD format then you can burn it to a DVD disc.
  24. 3500+: 10X multipler, 512kb L2 cache, 2.0ghz 3700+: 11X multiplier, 1mb L2 cache, 2.2ghz Opteron 148: 11X multiplier, 1mb L2 cache, 2.2ghz Anything else you need to know? If you can afford it get the Opteron 146 or 148...
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