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Posts posted by jeremywills

  1. Im not quoting your thread, but reading it you have answered your own question, if the manual and the forum here stated 350 watts, you know damn well as I do that oh, theres that point you stated your self, this 350 watt PoSU that came with my case will work then :( because it says 350 watt and I just blew a grand on video cards and a cpu and board, and thats why I belive the BAR was set high so that at least a 480 or greater PoSU case special might stand a chance of surviving, I myself had a nice Antec True Power 430 that replaced my PoSU rated for 500 watts, came with this case called a RaidMax, that was a cheap PSU, I could easily bend the metal casing with my bare hands, it was pretty flimsy, got that True Power after reading up on the subject on PSUs, reading alot of opinions like yours acutally, not that it is wrong, anyhow to make this short, the day I came home with an Ati Radeon 9800 and blew that 500 watt case special was the day I learned my lesson, its not the sticker on the outside of the unit, its what Inside that counts :) Since that time no case I have ever bought came with an included supply anyhow as I figured I probably wasnt going to be using a supplied one unless the case came from a good manufactuer so why bother looking at most cases that come with one, I kind of went out on a limb on the Ultra Xconnect, its flashy, but it was also modular, being in a small Antec SuperLanboy case now all that extra cable clutter really got in the way with no place to stash it, for my purposes it has worked out well. Im not disagreeing with you, that supposedly 430 watt PSU worked far better than that so call 500watt RaidMax thing ever did, at the time I was like this things so much smaller wattage wise, till it got here and tore open the box and was like woah, the weight of it alone was a surprise, so if you did your homework and you know what a good supply is all about, and its suiting your needs, go for it. On the board needing 4 connections bit, it seems they engineered the board to deliver power directly to where its needed. No point in drawing that juice all over the board from a central point when you can drop it where needed, to me that seems more efficient and well thought out design IMHO

    Anyhow best of luck to you sir, and I stated this before in your other thread, you cant please everyone and they do the best they can, given the circumstances I think they do quite well considering


    I learned my lesson a few years ago, the CPU yes is the brain of the system, but the PSU is like its food, feed the CPU and the rest of the system well and you will be treated accordingly, I never considered the PSU to be so critical until I wound up with a dead machine and the burnt smell of popped PSU. Its so Critical that people should consider this first over anything else.

    Have a nice day

  2. if i just hang on to my chaintech board why not can i just hotflash like i did to get this board to post in the first place? are these things really worth it and easy to use? 20 dollars don't sound too bad I guess



    OK new question, is MBM5 really accurate on these boards, or is the board itself really accurate with its readings, on the chaintech at 2.2 gig with 1.6 volts on the cpu with the fan running and ac running exactly what I always have them set on, the cpu would run with FAH full load at about 43C, now Im having it report 34C on the cpu, thats a whole 10 degrees cooler, also the case temp is about is reporting 27c when it usually was around 34-35c


    I know different board and all but could it really be that different




    wow I was just trying out some different ideas about air flow and such, when I removed the 120 mil fan I have blowing at the southbridge of the board the case temp reported jumped to 40c, even more than the cpu temp :( wow, I typically keep that 120 blowing at the raptor which btw brings up a few more questions about MBM and this board


    with the chaintech, i could get the raptor temp to display at the bottom along with the board and cpu temps, now MBM reports 2 cpu temps, on saying its using the winbond 2 sensor the other is using the W83L785TS-S Diode, each just says CPU, neither gives an indication of which is which, so ones reporting 35c, that has to be my cpu right? and the other reports 21c? now I want to know what that 21c one is? Also before I could get the raptors temp to appear at the bottom but on this board it dont seem to want to, I just wish I knew what that 21c one was, I would rather have the raptor displayed there,


    So that brings the final question


    What can I do other than the 120 fan blowing at the chipset, I would rather keep it on my raptor as I dont want to lose my data, and it does get toasty too, what replacement options have you guys come up with for that southbridge, it was always my impression the temp was derived off the northbridge, why would aiming it at the southbridge cause a 10 degree drop, is the case temp sensor on the southbridge?

  3. First off, Thank you to all the Forum Members with thier assistance on getting me this far.


    I am very greatful for all the help. The onboard lan issue is really low priority at this point since I have a working PCI nic and as long as thats running, why bother with the onboard any longer, I want to start Ocing this thing.


    Heres my goals, it doesnt have to be the max OC, I already know this ram is not going to do it, I accept this. My old chaintech would allow me to Oc the cpu up to 2.4 stable basically 200 times 12 with FAH running 24/7. It would only run the ram on a divider at 166, I know this hurt me in several areas. It would never allow 3200 mem to run at 3200. That was one of the main reasons to get this board. 200 was a baseline goal to achieve and anything above and beyond this is gravy, as long as it can run FAH uber stable. I fold for team 734 and this is my primary folder. I need to prioritze that first, then other things in whatever order needed.


    The Bios has areas that still stump me, the Memory settings alone are going to drive me nuts. My goal is to try and hit 2.5 or even more on the cpu with the mem running 1/1, but it must be able to fold 100 percent stable. These are my inital requirements, so where to begin. Ill do a forum search looking for potential clues and rememdies.


    Thanks again


  4. Please create a signature of all your machines specs, and or your proposed system, if your PSU and CPU cooling are up to the task then you could very well oc, but then your current 2800 might oc as well too, you can always try and see where it will go and buy your mom something like a sempron etc... depends on what your moms needs are as well, this is the question you need to answer first if your not wanting to spend alot of money, depending on your needs it might or might not be worth the investment

  5. no no you dont understand, this is my primary machine, I fold for team 734, the whole goal here was to get a motherboard to squeeze every bit of folding ability I could get out of the socket A architecture, when I bought this mobile I shudder to think what I paid for it back then, until its completely dead Ill continue to use it, A64 will happen eventually, Im kinda waiting for when the pricing of the duallys come out, then I might do it then, as long as its folding 100 percent stable then Im happy, my old chaintech limited me to 2.4 gig on the chip and running the ram on a divider, if i can hit 2.4 or maybe even more and have the mem 1/1 then Ill be happy, but it must fold 24/7 stable, I know running prime and all of that is for the absolute most stable and crap like that, Im not going for the absolute, just a nice moderate to fold with, Ive already lost enough down time folding the past week screwing around with this silly board, I want to get my production back going again

  6. yea, the onboard lan thingy though still pisses me off, i shouldnt have to use a pci one, oh well


    ill start a new thread then but tommrow when I start to try and oc this biatch, i installed FAH and so I want that to run tonight, I can see how long its taking between steps and then I have a baseline of what the Ocing gains me



    Consider this the end of the line on this one, and I'll start my Ocing thread tommrow


    J out

  7. UP and Running :) well at least Im finally typing to you from the Infinity. Apparantely to install the 5.10 drivers correctly you need Direct X 9 installed first, now for some odd reason it was supposed to displaying a splash screen telling you to install it first but it wasnt, I was on Nvidias site again looking for clues as to why the Net might not be working and low and behold, I came across a message claiming you must have Direct X installed before installing the forceware drivers, well once I had taken care of that first, Bam :) Here I am, although I have to tell you Im using the PCI nic as the onboard one still wont go, but I am a step further then before, any of you infinity users ever get the onboard lan to work correctly? I gotta install all the rest of my stuff first, MBM and some other things, I want to be able to monitor things before starting the fun task of trying to OC this biatch, right now I am playing it safe and running 11 times 166, and have the ram with very relaxed timings also at 166, so should we continue this thread or should I start a new one devoted to the Ocing efforts?

  8. that would explain why when I would attach my USB card reader it would do some crazy stuff when I was looking at the Voltages, I stopped using that along time ago and it had straightened out, no wonder now :) learn something new everyday still hard to belive it could have drawn much juice, now these external hdds etc... that i can see needing the juice

    its coming I been fighting the whole one plug idea for years, but I know one day everythings gonna be USB or something similar :(

  9. After unplugging my spare backup HD from the mb it all works ok.


    what do you mean by this exact comment, because if I am interperting that correctly it sounds like maybe that HDD might have gone south, and that could be your problem in booting up if its hanging, BTW as per the rules, please create a signature with all of your pc's specs please, so in future postings people will know what ya got and will enable us to help serve you better :) and welcome to the boards


    oh yea, i been there and done that with ISPs. Getting Southwestern Bell to admit it could be a problem on thier end was like pulling teeth out of a lion and well once they agreed to extensively check out the line from my place to thier end, well it appeared the heat a few summers ago was getting to thier equipment out in the field, since then I have swapped to Cable and been much happier, it takes just calling and calling and hassling them, I got tired of the usual questions, is it plugged in, is the this and that :) it gets old, and for the 10 millionth time I had to tell them no, my crap is fine, its somewhere out on your end and no I wont try the USB cable, hehe anyhow its a pain but you just have to be diligent in demanding your rights, Ill bet with the heat setting in that would be a good place to point fingers :) you might want to specifically ask them that and see if they respond quickly or not, if they know its a potential problem dont expect them to just chime right in on it though

  10. hehehe i can chime in here, yes yes and yes, the TT hsf bottoms are very rough, I have carefully lapped mine up to 2000 grit and it made a big difference




    is where i got my info from and by following this I was able to drop my temps a few degrees, in computing dropping the temp a few degrees more can be the difference sometimes, especially when i can get away now with running the fan slower and save my hearing :) that volcano fan gets loud in a hurry, although I have been eyeballing that si97, i might try one sometime


    good luck

  11. ill ask in here andy, not to try and hijack the thread, but you never either saw my other post or just never got around to it, after talking with AG he has convinced me the PowerStream is the way to go, I think for cost considerations the 520 will be my choice, now is there any way to swap that green fan for a non lit one? and not void any warranty? I only like to turn on the UV when needed, like when someone comes over to show it to them, otherwise like 99 percent of the time I dont even turn it on. Since the DFI Nf4 Ultras are UV Ill be reusing the UV lamps, but again only when needed, I hate having a night light so is there a way to disable the green fan? also, does the modstream have the adjust pots as well? I would so much prefer the modular setup as my case is extremely small, I have no need for half those molex cables, and I really like to keep my clutter to the absoulute min, LMK please, ill probably continue to use my xconnect with the nf2 so this is for when i get an a64 setup


  12. strange, the chaintech after going to be last night around 11 and getting back on again today this morning at 10 connects again, all i did was turn everything off and let it rest for the night, im hoping it just reset itself or something, so now I shall try and infinity and hopefully it will work, the cables are fine, i make sure each time i push it in firmly and hear the click, my only conclusion is that when the infinity wouldnt connect initially maybe the cable modem retained some data that prevented the chaintech to connect for a bit, i dunno, im really drawing straws here, now that I have that 5.10 in hand, Ill start from scratch and reinstall everything and use the 5.10, Im really hoping that will solve it

  13. If you system is not pretty "light", get the 520 Modstream. It is well proven for all but a 6800 SLI setup or greater. It is also works well with 2 x 6600GT in SLI.


    if your referring to uv lights hehehe why then make the modstream uv reactive? just wondering


    i can say from personal experience the first time I tried a ati 9800 i blew a no name psu, the one that came with a 35 dollar case, I bought an antec true power and problem solved, then i chose the Ultra Xconnect, kinda flashy but pretty decent, the modular was the key to my airflow issues especially in a small super lanboy case, now when considering the DFI im like in a crossroads, I think the OCZ mod or power streams would be best, but until this Ultras no longer good enough, Ill continue to use it, but whats the point in arguing for the sake of arguing

    either use a 480 or not, your call, hopefully it will work for you

  14. ive called the cable company they have checked the modem, they claim its working fine, they can get thier info they need to verify it off of it. im not connecting with any routers or anything, im connecting straight through this is very frustrating, im just gonna give it a days rest and then work on it again in the mean time any suggestions greatly appreicated

  15. well, after retrying to connect to the web for the millionth time, i have tried the 2.45 included cd driver, i tried this 5.10 you suggested, i also tried nv's most current off the forceware page, nada zip zero zilch

    so went ahead and said ok to hell with the onboard lan, ill use one of my 2 pci cards. i have a linksys and a dlink


    well neither of those will work either, i have the appropiate cds for the drivers, nothing. ok so im like totally mad with the board, i cant connect to the web, whats the point if i cant even do that


    so i go ahead and resetup the chaintech board, now it wont connect to the web, with the onboard nvidia lan or my 2 pci cards WTF im at a loss, why would all of a sudden when its been rock solid would it just stop connecting to the web, im totally dead in the water when it comes to the internet now

    :( grrr im wishing I had never wanted this stupid motherboard now, it should have just been a simple swap


    im now at a friends house typing this, i have no idea when i can get lan access back at my place again, im ready to trash this DFI board if it aint gonna do what i need

  16. yea, its with time warner cable of san antonio texas USA


    its been a pretty good ISP for me


    FYI the mobo CD came with 2.45 :( old, but I figured I would start with those and then update as needed


    ok got your 5.10 version and will probably nuke the HDD again and reload Winblows this time with the 5.10 in hand and hopefully it will work this time


    Ill check back in probably in a few hours



  17. nice, not quite what I had in mind, well modding is modding, wether its cars, or pcs :) ok back to the thread now, I know some of you are going to defy the rules that have been handed down and will continue to operate with the less than 480 watt rule bestowed upon us, and if you do and its working fine, then great, go for it, but I do see the logic in why it was decided and for that matter, please dont go flaming about it, run with your less than 480 watt psu, politely post your sig, state YMMV but Im running fine in this config and go from there, guys and gals, there has to be some sort of official set guideline, with all the possbilites of combinations, there has to be some fixed reference point as its already a nightmare trying to support any of the already numerous possibilites

    ok, all im gonna say on the matter

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