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Mekrel

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Posts posted by Mekrel


  1. So it's kind of like:

     

    DFI LP NForce4, best 939 overclocker you could get.

     

    DFI LP NForce4 Expert - Didn't add much for the extra you paid?

     

    So the 975 being your Nforce4 standard board, and ICFX being your expert - but to more of a extent.

     

    680i boards seem to be clock out of the box, so hopefully DFI will follow suit with theirs?

     

    Thanks for the explanation towards your feelings on this board Happy_Games.


  2. Well im now running this bios, but have nothing to really report in terms of gain in the overclocking area.

     

    Current overclock is stable enough and can't really push any further, as smids reporting a small speed bump from my RAID0 array.

     

    Going to keep this bios on though, was using 704-1 BTA before which was a brilliant bios so nice to see this one match :)


  3. The DFI Nforce4 boards are known to undervolt a tad, and to the same levels that you are experiencing.

     

    This is good however, a board which undervolts rather than overvolts is welcomed by me, for instance 1.45v*110% should give 1.59v but my board undervolts this to 1.53 roughly which is what my opteron takes for 3.0ghz stable.

     

    So the reading in MBM/CPU-z is more correct than the bios.

     

    Apparently using the Special VID multipliers give more accurate voltage.


  4. The way to tell your motherboard is as follows:

     

    DFI LP NF4 Ultra - D only 4 serial ports, the serial ports (Sil1334) will not be connected to the mobo near the external USB header.

     

    DFI LP NF4 SLI-DR has the 4 extra Sil1334 ports.

     

    The UT versions are the exact same motherboards just without all the extras such as FrontX, Lan carry case and such.

     

    As said, they all use the same bios and drivers anyways, except the Venus and Expert obviously.


  5. Arghhh stop it, im going to end up testing this bios out if you keep saying good things.

     

    I'm stuck between the , it's not broken and performance is more than good

     

    vs

     

    Hmmm, the possibility of more performance at the risk of breaking something.

     

    Going to get some 3500LL Pro when I get paid, so when I pop the side of my rig i'll probably try this out being as at the same time I will have access to the CMOS jumper.


  6. As per everyone else your temperatures are too high, and there could be several reasons for it.

     

    You have obviously considered poor heatsink contact, so the only other options I would look at are poor case air flow or probably poor IHS contact.

     

    The Opteron in my sig although being single core had very poor IHS contact so out came a wilkinson sword razor blade and off came the IHS :D


  7. Any card should really do you to be honest for 2D work. You will get those which will aruge the toss over image quality between Matrox, ATi and nVidia but with a good selection of monitor and driver calibration tools out there you should easily be able to get your desired colour depth etc.

     

    No, all of that memory will not be used and is a waste of time on such a card (well for gaming anyway) being as 512mb of vRam only comes into play at large resolutions for games, where the processing power of the GPU will lack anyhows.


  8. I agree with CPDMF,

     

    Im running my setup with the 704-1 BTA bios due to having TCCD sticks. I have not yet tested this bios but I believe it would be a waste of time being as im stable and I have none of the bugs reported in the fix list, other than my X1800 and logo error which I do not have enabled anyway.

     

    Nice to see a keyIn FSB option though, holding down the down arrow 100 times to get to 300FSB is abit tedious hehe.

     

    Edit: However, thats just my opinion and im sure people buying such motherboards as DFI, for their memory options etc are looking for the most out of their systems and testing new bios' sure does prove a good way of getting better performance sometimes. So test away obviously :)


  9. Well I ignored all of your advice :P and took the chipset heatsink and fan off.

     

    Well not because I didn't believe you, just wanted to look at the nf4 chipset, kinda looks like a athlon XP chip lol.

     

    I was not surprised to see that there was no contact at all on the chipset and the thermal paste looked very poor. Obviously when your mass producing boards, they cant lavish out on AS5 :D

     

    So I cleaned them both up and applied a nice thin layer of AS5. My chipset now idles at 38 degrees :)

     

    I have set the DFI chipset fan to full what when it hits 41 degrees.

     

    At full what the chipset fan is loud! Its got the same kind of screech the beginning of an air raid siren has lol.


  10. Actually backwards I believe.

     

    You need the driver for the Nvidia network bus enumerator installed for the Nforce4 Lan chip to be detected (Lan1). (Shows up as other pci-bridge device before driver is installed IIRC)

     

    The driver for this is on the DFI CD that came with the mobo. The Marvell should have been detected automatically.

     

    Well, he said he had installed the nforce drivers which should have installed the ethernet drivers unless he unticked them during installation.


  11. Do you mean to switch between the two?

     

    Simply plugging in the headset will switch sound to the headset from the front speakers. This would be a pain to keep going around the back of the PC.

     

    If your case has a front audio and mic jack, you could plug these up to the karajan audio module and the above effect would work.

     

    If you had gone for the full SLI-DR and not the UT, the setup would have included a FrontX module which could have done this if your case lacked front audio jacks.

     

    The FrontX can also be purchased seperatley too :)


  12. Hi,

     

    Please refer to http://www.msfn.org/board/index.php?showtopic=51140 for integrating nvidia mass storage drivers into Windows. Many thanks to Fernando for that post.

     

    Make sure you are running 4.84 raid bios (you should see the version at boot)

    Make sure you are running Nlite RC3 (fixed a bug with integrating drivers)

    Also make sure you are integrating the either Legacy OR PATARaid folder as these folders contain all files for the Raid and ATA controller.


  13. Im not quite sure what you mean, I dont think the bios reports the speeds and your most probably reading the list of devices connected to the board, and the ATA133 bus being one of them?

     

    If you are concerned about the drive not runnning at the speed it should, then download HDTach which is freeware.

     

    Bench the drive on a 32mb run and search the net for results of people with a similar setup.

     

    There was a thread IIRC made by Angry_Games about HDD benches with HDtach and other programs. So a search on this forum wouldn't go a miss.

     

    Make sure it is a similar setup you compare to though, as the controller will also affect the bench.


  14. The drivers you should be using are the Nvidia 6.70s which are WHQL :) use good for that and you can download them from Guru3d or the Nvidia site :)

     

    On your lanparty CD will be a utility called ITE Smart Gaurdian which is software for reading temperatures and voltages.

     

    However, I much prefer MBM5. If you type mbm5 into the search dialog of this forum you will find a post by Sound98x (sp?) who has written a great guide to setting up MBM5.

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