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Posts posted by GaiusMaxwell

  1. Update: So I actually figured this out.

    I booted up this morning and my PC froze before fully booting into windows, debug code showed "04" but I'd never not made it to the desktop before.

    I restarted and got to the desktop with "A0" and ran a disk check, sure enough there were errors on my boot drive, it restarted and repaired, and after 20 or so reboots now I haven't yet seen the "04" error code.

    So it looks like it was a disk problem the whole time, and "04" which was something to do with the South Bridge Initialization did absolutely nothing to point me in the direction of the actual problem >.<

  2. That is weird. It should be A0 after normal boot.


    After a quick google search it looks as though this has happened with other MSI boards in the past.


    I wouldn't worry about it if you can boot and everything seems normal. You could try a bios update, sometimes they fix weird things like this.

    Thanks for the peace of mind, just the 04 meaning something with the south bridge was getting me worried but I figure I just reboot once more to get the A0 to be as safe as possible :)

  3. This sounds completely normal




    It cycles through the codes because it is letting you know what it is doing...

    Perhaps I didn't quite explain it right.


    What I mean is that right now, while I sit here typing on my PC the debug code is "A0" permanently.


    But if I restart my PC right now, it will boot all the way into Windows and the debug code will be "04" permanently.


    It will then revert back to "A0" the next time I restart, and then back to "04" the following time.


    The debug LED table cycles like normal to boot up but once I'm fully into Windows it sticks at either A0 or 04 and I can make them switch like clockwork just by restarting but nothing short of a restart will make them move off A0 or 04.

  4. Ok, let's start from the beginning.

    I recently made several upgrades to my PC but kept the same motherboard, RAM, and CPU which are:

    • MSI Mpower Z87
    • i7 4770k
    • 2x8gb Adata DDR3

    This build ran flawlessly for a couple of years but I recently switched cases and at the same time I switched out my 780ti for a GTX 1080, I also added:

    • 2tb Seagate HDD
    • Elgato HD60 Pro (PCIe)
    • TPLink AC1900 PCIe Network card

    I also switched out my unnecessarily large Corsair AX1200 PSU for a Coolermaster 650w.

    The system boots fine, it seems to run fine, but the debug LED codes rotate like clockwork on every restart.

    I will boot up and once I'm in Windows it will read "A0" which the debug LED table doesn't specifically list though it could mean "Onboard devices initialize and detect" - I am lead to believe that this is normal but I was sure that it used to simply read "00" prior to the changes.

    The next bit is the strange bit though, because the next time I boot up it will read "04" which is listed in the debug table as "Power on South Bridge Initialization".

    The debug codes rotate, from A0 to 04 on every restart, in both cases the system appears to run fine but it still concerns me and I couldn't find anybody with a similar problem, I've switched PCIe slots for the devices, unplugged devices individually, switched the RAM slots, I'm not sure where to go from here.

    I should also add that in total for storage I have:

    • 2x Samsung 840 EVO SSD
    • 1x 3TB WD Black HDD
    • 1x 2TB Seagate HDD (Recently added)

  5. The problem is static refresh rates.

    Even if the monitor goes up to 144Hz, you would have to match that 144Hz with a solid 144fps (or 124/90/60 whatever you set it to). Unfortunately, framerate goes up and down all the time and even with high-end gear remains a problem.

    G-Sync basically removes that entire problem. It will allow for V-sync like improvements at whatever framerate your rig can handle at any random time. Which might be 144 one second, then 92 a second later.

    I cannot attest to how noticeable it is though, I have been itching to get the Asus ROG 27" but haven't taken the plunge, I don't notice any graphical problems on my current 144Hz monitor.

  6. Both JBL speakers produce amazing sound for their size, and they are the best choices on that list.

    We have all of those speakers on display at work and the Bose offerings are absolutely rubbish, I could not ever convey to you just how shite they are. They sound terrible, tinny, and they are incredibly overpriced just because they have a bose badge.

    Both JBLs are indentical in terms of the sound they produce, they literally have the same speakers and specifications (and both produce great sound for compact units). The Charge gets a way longer use on battery life and can actually be used to charge other devices by USB. The Flip 2 is incredibly value for money though.

    • Like 1

  7. I don't know what experience people have with Samsung to say there is too much bloat. Like on the S2 or something?

    I've been selling phones for just about 4 years now and Samsung have come a long way, there's almost no bloatware at all on the S5, the only thing that could be classified as bloatware on the Note 4 are apps that are actually made to be used with the S-pen. Touchwiz isn't anywhere near as bad as it used to be, and I'd struggle to choose another companies launcher over it, except maybe LG. HTCs Sense UI is disgusting, Sony are the biggest bloatware culprits from my experience, and I don't even want to talk about Huawei. Of course clean Android is probably the best, it isn't hard to get to that on any device though.

    The Samsung Note 4 is by far the best phone on the market at the moment and I couldn't recommend anything over it unless you wanted something niche like waterproofing.

    I will comment on the choices you listed however, though I think you are avoiding easily the best choices at the moment just because of the mythical Samsung bloatware.

    Oneplus don't sell phones in Australia so I will unfortunately not be able to comment on those 2 phones.

    The Moto X is a great phone, though a little outclassed. The advantages are obviously a clean android install and the device is incredibly robust. Looks great and Motorola love long battery lives.
    You miss out on expandable memory, and a lot of it's components under-perform compared to the competition in the same price range.

    The Sony Xperia Z3 Compact would be my choice out of your list. The camera is amazing, battery life is tops, it is fairly robust and the waterproofing is great. Pricing is good too, it really gives the iPhone 6 a run for it's money (if sheep weren't sheep that is) in the "small smartphone" category.
    The screen does leave a bit to be desired compared to the competition but apart from the iPhone 6 it probably has the best LCD on the market, being 720p shouldn't be too noticeable on that screen size. The biggest problem for me though, after having owned an Xperia Z1 and Z2, Sony are the absolute worst for bloatware, their launcher is only slightly above HTCs, my Z1 was laggy as hell despite having the same quad core processor as the competition at the time. We'll be getting the Z3 and Z3 compact in my store to be put on demo this week so I'll have a better idea if they have improved on that then.

    I'd still take a Samsung Note 4/Edge, S5, or LG G3 (in that order) over pretty much anything on the market at the moment (in Australia at least). Those Koreans are smashing it at the moment.

  8. It does sound like faulty fans to me, did you try just using one fan at a time at different rpm's to see if maybe just one is vibrating ? Even if you do use a fan controller to fix the problem ,the fans are still faulty and will give you problems later on, so I would either rma them or get better fans.


    I'm not entirely sure the fans are faulty.


    It only happens when both fans are on and at the same RPM.


    For some reason I think it has to do with this weird rad design and the fans just getting to a "sweet spot" causing some kind of resonant frequency effect.


    If I take 1 off entirely the noise goes away, but when both are on and spinning at that "sweet spot" the vibration is just out of control.


    I'm still waiting on word from the retailer about returning/exchanging but its easter so I don't expect that until tuesday. I'm thinking if changing it is a no go I will buy some Noctua fans to replace these and see how I go.


    Again, unrelated, but just to let my luck be known. In addition to this issue, the mouse I bought (Madcatz RAT MMO 7) has a faulty scroll wheel and the Sibera V2 headset I got has a faulty microphone.

    One of the feet of my case (NZXT H440) was also missing the rubber base so the case wasn't even/straight when up right until I put something under the foot to fix the gap, luckily the good people at NZXT are sending me a whole replacement foot for free.

  9. Good luck with the exchange.  It really shouldn't be vibrating to the point that it is annoying.  Are you sure it's the fans and not the pump?


    99% sure.


    The pump doesn't appear to have variable speed, it's plugged into the CPU fan header and gives me an option for control but the RPM stays steady at just over 2600 no matter what % i set it to.


    Plus, I can cycle up the fan speeds (which is on a different header) and make my way towards the vibration death zone (only difference being here is that manual control only lets me do 25% increments and I am under the bad spot at 50%, 75 is bugged and way over it at 100%, but if i go from 25-100 I can feel when it hits the bad spot, it just so happen that auto control seems to think this exact bad vibration spot is the perfect RPM it wants to use to keep temps down).

  10. Yeah, I've heard that the only reason is performs so well is because of the rad design but the rad design needs so much static pressure it's almost not an option to switch to quieter fans.


    The stock ones that come with it have a max static pressure of 3.5mm/H20.


    Noise never bothered me regardless, it's this crazy vibration that's getting to me.


    I was considering a fan controller and that might be the direction ill go in if the retailer doesn't accept an exchange of the unit.


    (on an unrelated note, The performance is something I can't complain about, 1.115v core on a 4770k @ 4.2ghz barely goes a few degrees over ambient and I haven't seen it break 60 under load yet.)

  11. So I recently put together a new build, significantly more modest than originally planned due to car troubles that ended up costing a lot of money.


    Anyway, I got a 4770k and a silverstone tundra TD02 240mm AIO CPU cooler, I read the reviews on it which were all positive and since I was going for a white and yellow/gold theme it fit perfectly.


    Installation was fine and everything runs smoothly when on the desktop or doing general tasks.


    The problem lies in gaming, which is what I put the machine together for.


    The tundra is controlled by motherboard fan controls, I have the MSI z87 mpower board and it does choose fan speeds pretty optimally, but after gaming for a short while (and temps rising) the fans get to a certain RPM (around 1600-1800) that cause everything from my case to my entire desk to shake uncontrollably. and by uncontrollably I mean gaming becomes impossible because my mouse moves erratically by itself.


    Below this "sweet spot" is absolutely fine, even above it to max (2400 RPM) is fine.


    I tried anti vibration gaskets between the rad and case (didn't have enough for fan to rad) but it didn't have any noticeable effect.


    My questions are many:


    Is this normal or have I got a malfunctioning unit?

    What are my options?


    Should I just be setting the fan speed to max before gaming and deal with the excessive sound of the unit at full speed?

    Will full anti-vibration fan pads on both the rad mount and fan mounts make a difference?

    Are there any other ways I can control the vibration?


    Case: NZXT H440 (at first I thought the limited exhaust ventilation was to blame, rad is mounted up top, but I took the top off completely and vibration continued.)

    GPU: Palit Jetstream 780ti (I ramped this up to 100% manually to make sure it wasn't the problem and it isn't)



    Edit: I forgot to mention that the supplied MSI command centre program only allows me to manually set fan speeds to 25, 50, 75 and 100% and the 75% appears bugged because it just ramps up to full.

    Speed fan mustn't support my mobo which has 2 CPU fan inputs and will not let me control the CPU2 fan which the fans are plugged into (pump plugged into 1).


    Are there alternative programs I can look at?

  12. If you are doing video editing I would switch to 32gb of ram. For gaming It is pointless but I guess it depends how much you edit.  Also I don't think UDK support Sli but it shouldn't matter since a single 780 Ti will run anything that engine can produce.


    As for the 2 480mm radiators, I would think you need a second pump and it's really overkill lol. I don't think it will matter at all about airflow direction since you will have 2 rads that can displace 800watts each, personally I would go with up because heat raises.


    Video editing will be minimal but 32gb is still an option.


    The second pump is absolutely overkill lol but it's almost entirely a cosmetic choice, I wanted 2 seperate loops with different tubing/colours (going for a blue/green theme build) so while I could've easily got away with 1 pump and most likely just 1 480mm monsta, I just decided to make it less of a squeeze and have some thinner rads and 2 seperate loops to play around with aesthetics.



    Looks fantastic, any plans on fans? A high dollar build should have some nice fans to go with it. Noctua's perhaps? The NF-F12 is specifically for pushing ari through radiators. 


    Ouch $29 a piece, four for the radiator but you said high dollar build. For that I would expect quiet fans that will last forever. 


    I honestly couldn't think of anything else, a nice mechanical keyboard maybe?


    I'll actually be running the corsair static pressure fans (also designed for rads, and both are push/pull so I actually need 8 per rad lol);

    This is, again, as aesthetic choice, the noctua fans are all so damn ugly, and with the 2 seperate loops (meaning the rads will only have to cool a couple of components each) I'm not sure it'll make much of a difference (if at all) using a good second best fan instead of the best one.


    Also, I have my peripherals sorted as well, A roccat mechanical KB, TT level 10 mouse, siberia elite headset and a nice mousepad and bungee to go with it. 

  13. ok, so I haven't been keeping up too much with tech over the last few years, my last build was when GTX 580's were brand new. Anyway, I've given myself a crash course and put together a parts list for my new build.


    CPU: i7 4770K

    Mobo: Gigabyte G1 sniper 5

    GPUs: 2x GTX 780 Ti SLI

    RAM: Corsair Dominator platinum CMD16GX3M2A1600C9 2x8gb
    SSD: Samsung 840 EVO 1TB
    HDD: WD Black 4TB
    PSU: Silverstone Strider 1200w
    OPTICAL: LG Bluray writer
    CASE: Enthoo primo
    COOLING: I've put together a bunch of water cooling parts and plan to water cool everything - CPU, MoBo (integrated on the G1), RAM and both 780 Ti's.
    I'll be running 2 seperate loops (1 for CPU, Mobo and RAM and 1 for the GFX), 1 pump and 1 4x120mm (480mm) Rad each.
    Pretty much exclusively a Gaming PC, though I will be doing some video editing/rendering and I'll be working a fair bit with UDK.
    I plan on running 2560x1440 resolution on a couple of Asus 27" monitors (I will likely wait it out for a G-sync monitor though and just buy 1 27" now to use as a single then move it to a secondary screen when I can get a Gsync monitor)
    Is there anything glaringly wrong here or something I should reconsider?

    A couple of things to note:
    • I will not buy AMD (neither CPU or GPU), I have just never been a fan and I don't mind paying the extra for a 780 Ti over a 290x (and from the benchmarks I've seen/what I understand, the 780 ti's probably suit my needs better as I don't plan to surround/eyefinity but please correct me if I'm wrong).
    • I was not sure about the 2011 vs 1150 choice, I ended up going with the 1150 because as far as I can tell, for gaming, there is little difference - unless you go tri or quad SLI/Xfire, I'll be sticking to regular SLI for the life time of the build so I don't see any bottlenecking affecting me.
    • My budget is virtually non existant (to a reasonable degree), around $8000-$10,000, but that figure includes monitors, keyboard, mouse, headset etc as well as the insane amount of water cooling equipment I have in my cart (and I live in Australia where I pay quite a bit more for hardware)
    • Preferred retailer is PCCasegear.com.au - All parts listed can be purchased from there and they have some, if not the, cheapest prices here.

    EDIT: I also had a question about the WC which I couldn't find an answer to.
    I'll be putting a 480mm Rad in push/pull both on top of the case and on the bottom.
    Should the airflow direction be:

    Both up (towards/out the top of the case) or

    Top rad up and bottom rad down (so both are pushing hot air out of the case rather the bottom flooding it in)?


    EDIT2: My god I forgot how expensive WC parts can get (when I go overboard), those 42 compression fittings really start to add up.. to over $300 >.<

  14. I had a very, very similar problem, I switched mice, switched mouse pads, changed drivers, added/removed software and nothing helped.


    My cursor was just jittering around all over the screen, id go to double click something and it would jitter off the icon.


    I finally found the cause, which was right in front of me the whole time, it was the vibration from my computer, I couldn't actually feel it myself while using my pc normally, but after feeling around and really searching for it there was a faint vibration, as soon as I took the tower off my desk the mouse problem stopped.


    I only bring this up because the vibration was almost not apparent, I don't know if you have anything similar on your desk.



    This is on win7?


    Try a newer driver version like 314.22





    but first open "dxdiag" and see if both directdraw and direct3d are enabled.


    you can type dxdiag in run or just search for it in the start menu.


    Windows 8.


    I updated like 10 minutes ago, actually. :lol: I just checked, and yeah, they're both enabled. 


    Well there's your problem haha


    80-90C is pretty hot and there is every chance it is downclocking. You should run some monitoring software and have a look at what the clock speeds, utilization and temps do while you game,


    I agree with stoner here, 80-90c is quite hot and while it is entirely possible for them to run normally at that temp, it is also possible that it is throttling to save itself from damage.


    I had a similiar problem way back when I had an 8800gt (single slot cooling solution from galaxy or something), it was hitting 80c in WoW then downclocked to 400Mhz before finally kicking the fan to 100% and getting back to 600Mhz in a few minutes - It was crippling lag while this process was going in.


    I attributed my problem to poor software/drivers and I haven't had any problems with any of the gfx cards I've had since. (Currently using 2 gtx 580's that sit at a nice and cool 40c under load with the w/c loop)

  16. I voted case mainly because I don't feel many people could truly keep a case in like new condition or keep all the extras/accessories that come with it.

    I myself have thrown out 3 different high-end chassis over the years because I didn't feel I could sell them after I'd used them.

    They get dusty, people tinker with it/customise it for their builds, there are so many extras that come with cases you could never be sure you're getting everything you need from a second hand one.

    Saying that though, people who just want to mod a case would probably buy a used one, where as most people probably wouldn't buy a second hand water cooling kit (that wasn't a self-contained mass produced one*)

  17. The comfort issue might not be such a problem for "finger mouse" people like myself, My palm doesn't ever touch the mouse at all, the base of my wrist sits on the mousepad while my fingers do all the mouse moving.

    As soon as I grip a mouse it's just automatic, no matter how big, small, ergonomic or how it's actually designed for your hand. I immediately hold the mouse at a slight angle with my fingers in a weird claw like grip, my palm and everything that isn't my fingertips hovers over the mouse.

  18. I got the bar filled to "Excellent"

    It may have something to do with how much you write in the final box, because I got carried away and almost wrote an essay, as soon as I clicked out of the box to check the 3 tick boxes for blah blah email me the bar moved from above average to excellent.

    but it might also have something to do with the nature of your answers, Personally I listed 11 games in the beta test part and had almost all of the tick boxes ticked for the "which games have you played?" part.


    Here are the winners


    Grand Prize - Phone call will be made tomorrow between 9am-12PM Pacific Time. Hint, Three people have been picked in case I can't reach anyone. The first two are in the US and the third one is in Australia so if you are in either of those two countries stay close to your phone. Once I have talked to the winner I will announce it.


    Intel 3770k (Supplied by Intel)

    MSI Z77A GD65 (Supplied by ccokeman)

    NVIDIA GTX 690 (Supplied by NVIDIA)

    Mushkin Chronos 120GB HDD (Supplied by Mushkin)

    Dominator Platinum 16GB (Supplied by Corsair)

    Corsair 600T Case (Supplied by Corsair)

    Corsair AX860 PSU (Supplied by Corsair)

    H100i (Supplied by Corsair)

    Asus DVDRW (Supplied by Bosco)



    I dont think you realize how many fingers i have crossed right now  :wub:


    Great prizes, merry christmas to all.


    Hands off mucho :P

  20. In an update to my latest story.


    They found my TV... sitting in the newcastle depot not scanned - Sound familiar?


    And ofcourse because they only found it today they wont be delivering it today, the specialist has scheduled it for tomorrow and I basically told her that It better be delivered tomorrow, to the correct address and to the correct door (ive set up signs pointing the dullards to unit 1), "I don't care if the CEO has to strap it to his back and bicycle it to me, If it isn't here tomorrow I am moving forward with my department of fair trading claim".


    So we'll see if they come through.

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