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GaiusMaxwell

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About GaiusMaxwell

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 07/05/1991

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Newcastle, NSW, Australia
  • Interests
    JRPGs, Anime, Tattoos, Telecommunications.

Social

  • Twitter
    @GaiusMaxwell

Gaming

  • Steam
    icantbelieveitsnotbotta
  • PSN
    whatis_thesource

OCC

  • Computer Specs
    i7-2700K @ 4.3Ghz
    EVGA GTX 780 Ti Classified
    16gb Adata Gold DDR3 RAM
    2x 500gb Samsung evo 840 SSD
    2x WD Black 3TB HDD
    MSI Z87 MPOWER Mobo
    Corsair AX1200 PSU
    NZXT H440 modded White/Orange theme

Contact Methods

  1. Update: So I actually figured this out. I booted up this morning and my PC froze before fully booting into windows, debug code showed "04" but I'd never not made it to the desktop before. I restarted and got to the desktop with "A0" and ran a disk check, sure enough there were errors on my boot drive, it restarted and repaired, and after 20 or so reboots now I haven't yet seen the "04" error code. So it looks like it was a disk problem the whole time, and "04" which was something to do with the South Bridge Initialization did absolutely nothing to point me in the direction of the actual problem >.<
  2. Thanks for the peace of mind, just the 04 meaning something with the south bridge was getting me worried but I figure I just reboot once more to get the A0 to be as safe as possible
  3. Perhaps I didn't quite explain it right. What I mean is that right now, while I sit here typing on my PC the debug code is "A0" permanently. But if I restart my PC right now, it will boot all the way into Windows and the debug code will be "04" permanently. It will then revert back to "A0" the next time I restart, and then back to "04" the following time. The debug LED table cycles like normal to boot up but once I'm fully into Windows it sticks at either A0 or 04 and I can make them switch like clockwork just by restarting but nothing short of a restart will make them move off A0 or 04.
  4. Ok, let's start from the beginning. I recently made several upgrades to my PC but kept the same motherboard, RAM, and CPU which are: MSI Mpower Z87 i7 4770k 2x8gb Adata DDR3 This build ran flawlessly for a couple of years but I recently switched cases and at the same time I switched out my 780ti for a GTX 1080, I also added: 2tb Seagate HDD Elgato HD60 Pro (PCIe) TPLink AC1900 PCIe Network card I also switched out my unnecessarily large Corsair AX1200 PSU for a Coolermaster 650w. The system boots fine, it seems to run fine, but the debug LED codes rotate like clockwork on every restart. I will boot up and once I'm in Windows it will read "A0" which the debug LED table doesn't specifically list though it could mean "Onboard devices initialize and detect" - I am lead to believe that this is normal but I was sure that it used to simply read "00" prior to the changes. The next bit is the strange bit though, because the next time I boot up it will read "04" which is listed in the debug table as "Power on South Bridge Initialization". The debug codes rotate, from A0 to 04 on every restart, in both cases the system appears to run fine but it still concerns me and I couldn't find anybody with a similar problem, I've switched PCIe slots for the devices, unplugged devices individually, switched the RAM slots, I'm not sure where to go from here. I should also add that in total for storage I have: 2x Samsung 840 EVO SSD 1x 3TB WD Black HDD 1x 2TB Seagate HDD (Recently added)
  5. GaiusMaxwell

    Do you really need G-sync?

    The problem is static refresh rates. Even if the monitor goes up to 144Hz, you would have to match that 144Hz with a solid 144fps (or 124/90/60 whatever you set it to). Unfortunately, framerate goes up and down all the time and even with high-end gear remains a problem. G-Sync basically removes that entire problem. It will allow for V-sync like improvements at whatever framerate your rig can handle at any random time. Which might be 144 one second, then 92 a second later. I cannot attest to how noticeable it is though, I have been itching to get the Asus ROG 27" but haven't taken the plunge, I don't notice any graphical problems on my current 144Hz monitor.
  6. GaiusMaxwell

    Official OCC 2014 Christmas Contest

    Congrats to the winners! I think it's time for me to give up hope of ever winning anything, every christmas contest for the last 7 years has been a no go for me WTB the luck of the people who win something every year.
  7. GaiusMaxwell

    Suggest me best portable speaker for

    Both JBL speakers produce amazing sound for their size, and they are the best choices on that list. We have all of those speakers on display at work and the Bose offerings are absolutely rubbish, I could not ever convey to you just how shite they are. They sound terrible, tinny, and they are incredibly overpriced just because they have a bose badge. Both JBLs are indentical in terms of the sound they produce, they literally have the same speakers and specifications (and both produce great sound for compact units). The Charge gets a way longer use on battery life and can actually be used to charge other devices by USB. The Flip 2 is incredibly value for money though.
  8. GaiusMaxwell

    New Phone Time

    I don't know what experience people have with Samsung to say there is too much bloat. Like on the S2 or something? I've been selling phones for just about 4 years now and Samsung have come a long way, there's almost no bloatware at all on the S5, the only thing that could be classified as bloatware on the Note 4 are apps that are actually made to be used with the S-pen. Touchwiz isn't anywhere near as bad as it used to be, and I'd struggle to choose another companies launcher over it, except maybe LG. HTCs Sense UI is disgusting, Sony are the biggest bloatware culprits from my experience, and I don't even want to talk about Huawei. Of course clean Android is probably the best, it isn't hard to get to that on any device though. The Samsung Note 4 is by far the best phone on the market at the moment and I couldn't recommend anything over it unless you wanted something niche like waterproofing. I will comment on the choices you listed however, though I think you are avoiding easily the best choices at the moment just because of the mythical Samsung bloatware. Oneplus don't sell phones in Australia so I will unfortunately not be able to comment on those 2 phones. The Moto X is a great phone, though a little outclassed. The advantages are obviously a clean android install and the device is incredibly robust. Looks great and Motorola love long battery lives. You miss out on expandable memory, and a lot of it's components under-perform compared to the competition in the same price range. The Sony Xperia Z3 Compact would be my choice out of your list. The camera is amazing, battery life is tops, it is fairly robust and the waterproofing is great. Pricing is good too, it really gives the iPhone 6 a run for it's money (if sheep weren't sheep that is) in the "small smartphone" category. The screen does leave a bit to be desired compared to the competition but apart from the iPhone 6 it probably has the best LCD on the market, being 720p shouldn't be too noticeable on that screen size. The biggest problem for me though, after having owned an Xperia Z1 and Z2, Sony are the absolute worst for bloatware, their launcher is only slightly above HTCs, my Z1 was laggy as hell despite having the same quad core processor as the competition at the time. We'll be getting the Z3 and Z3 compact in my store to be put on demo this week so I'll have a better idea if they have improved on that then. I'd still take a Samsung Note 4/Edge, S5, or LG G3 (in that order) over pretty much anything on the market at the moment (in Australia at least). Those Koreans are smashing it at the moment.
  9. GaiusMaxwell

    SilverStone Tundra TD02 problem

    I'm not entirely sure the fans are faulty. It only happens when both fans are on and at the same RPM. For some reason I think it has to do with this weird rad design and the fans just getting to a "sweet spot" causing some kind of resonant frequency effect. If I take 1 off entirely the noise goes away, but when both are on and spinning at that "sweet spot" the vibration is just out of control. I'm still waiting on word from the retailer about returning/exchanging but its easter so I don't expect that until tuesday. I'm thinking if changing it is a no go I will buy some Noctua fans to replace these and see how I go. Again, unrelated, but just to let my luck be known. In addition to this issue, the mouse I bought (Madcatz RAT MMO 7) has a faulty scroll wheel and the Sibera V2 headset I got has a faulty microphone. One of the feet of my case (NZXT H440) was also missing the rubber base so the case wasn't even/straight when up right until I put something under the foot to fix the gap, luckily the good people at NZXT are sending me a whole replacement foot for free.
  10. GaiusMaxwell

    SilverStone Tundra TD02 problem

    99% sure. The pump doesn't appear to have variable speed, it's plugged into the CPU fan header and gives me an option for control but the RPM stays steady at just over 2600 no matter what % i set it to. Plus, I can cycle up the fan speeds (which is on a different header) and make my way towards the vibration death zone (only difference being here is that manual control only lets me do 25% increments and I am under the bad spot at 50%, 75 is bugged and way over it at 100%, but if i go from 25-100 I can feel when it hits the bad spot, it just so happen that auto control seems to think this exact bad vibration spot is the perfect RPM it wants to use to keep temps down).
  11. GaiusMaxwell

    SilverStone Tundra TD02 problem

    Yeah, I've heard that the only reason is performs so well is because of the rad design but the rad design needs so much static pressure it's almost not an option to switch to quieter fans. The stock ones that come with it have a max static pressure of 3.5mm/H20. Noise never bothered me regardless, it's this crazy vibration that's getting to me. I was considering a fan controller and that might be the direction ill go in if the retailer doesn't accept an exchange of the unit. (on an unrelated note, The performance is something I can't complain about, 1.115v core on a 4770k @ 4.2ghz barely goes a few degrees over ambient and I haven't seen it break 60 under load yet.)
  12. So I recently put together a new build, significantly more modest than originally planned due to car troubles that ended up costing a lot of money. Anyway, I got a 4770k and a silverstone tundra TD02 240mm AIO CPU cooler, I read the reviews on it which were all positive and since I was going for a white and yellow/gold theme it fit perfectly. Installation was fine and everything runs smoothly when on the desktop or doing general tasks. The problem lies in gaming, which is what I put the machine together for. The tundra is controlled by motherboard fan controls, I have the MSI z87 mpower board and it does choose fan speeds pretty optimally, but after gaming for a short while (and temps rising) the fans get to a certain RPM (around 1600-1800) that cause everything from my case to my entire desk to shake uncontrollably. and by uncontrollably I mean gaming becomes impossible because my mouse moves erratically by itself. Below this "sweet spot" is absolutely fine, even above it to max (2400 RPM) is fine. I tried anti vibration gaskets between the rad and case (didn't have enough for fan to rad) but it didn't have any noticeable effect. My questions are many: Is this normal or have I got a malfunctioning unit? What are my options? Should I just be setting the fan speed to max before gaming and deal with the excessive sound of the unit at full speed? Will full anti-vibration fan pads on both the rad mount and fan mounts make a difference? Are there any other ways I can control the vibration? Case: NZXT H440 (at first I thought the limited exhaust ventilation was to blame, rad is mounted up top, but I took the top off completely and vibration continued.) GPU: Palit Jetstream 780ti (I ramped this up to 100% manually to make sure it wasn't the problem and it isn't) Edit: I forgot to mention that the supplied MSI command centre program only allows me to manually set fan speeds to 25, 50, 75 and 100% and the 75% appears bugged because it just ramps up to full. Speed fan mustn't support my mobo which has 2 CPU fan inputs and will not let me control the CPU2 fan which the fans are plugged into (pump plugged into 1). Are there alternative programs I can look at?
  13. GaiusMaxwell

    New build input (first in a while)

    Video editing will be minimal but 32gb is still an option. The second pump is absolutely overkill lol but it's almost entirely a cosmetic choice, I wanted 2 seperate loops with different tubing/colours (going for a blue/green theme build) so while I could've easily got away with 1 pump and most likely just 1 480mm monsta, I just decided to make it less of a squeeze and have some thinner rads and 2 seperate loops to play around with aesthetics. I'll actually be running the corsair static pressure fans (also designed for rads, and both are push/pull so I actually need 8 per rad lol); This is, again, as aesthetic choice, the noctua fans are all so damn ugly, and with the 2 seperate loops (meaning the rads will only have to cool a couple of components each) I'm not sure it'll make much of a difference (if at all) using a good second best fan instead of the best one. Also, I have my peripherals sorted as well, A roccat mechanical KB, TT level 10 mouse, siberia elite headset and a nice mousepad and bungee to go with it.
  14. GaiusMaxwell

    New build input (first in a while)

    ok, so I haven't been keeping up too much with tech over the last few years, my last build was when GTX 580's were brand new. Anyway, I've given myself a crash course and put together a parts list for my new build. CPU: i7 4770K Mobo: Gigabyte G1 sniper 5 GPUs: 2x GTX 780 Ti SLI RAM: Corsair Dominator platinum CMD16GX3M2A1600C9 2x8gb SSD: Samsung 840 EVO 1TB HDD: WD Black 4TB PSU: Silverstone Strider 1200w OPTICAL: LG Bluray writer CASE: Enthoo primo COOLING: I've put together a bunch of water cooling parts and plan to water cool everything - CPU, MoBo (integrated on the G1), RAM and both 780 Ti's. I'll be running 2 seperate loops (1 for CPU, Mobo and RAM and 1 for the GFX), 1 pump and 1 4x120mm (480mm) Rad each. Pretty much exclusively a Gaming PC, though I will be doing some video editing/rendering and I'll be working a fair bit with UDK. I plan on running 2560x1440 resolution on a couple of Asus 27" monitors (I will likely wait it out for a G-sync monitor though and just buy 1 27" now to use as a single then move it to a secondary screen when I can get a Gsync monitor) Is there anything glaringly wrong here or something I should reconsider? A couple of things to note: I will not buy AMD (neither CPU or GPU), I have just never been a fan and I don't mind paying the extra for a 780 Ti over a 290x (and from the benchmarks I've seen/what I understand, the 780 ti's probably suit my needs better as I don't plan to surround/eyefinity but please correct me if I'm wrong). I was not sure about the 2011 vs 1150 choice, I ended up going with the 1150 because as far as I can tell, for gaming, there is little difference - unless you go tri or quad SLI/Xfire, I'll be sticking to regular SLI for the life time of the build so I don't see any bottlenecking affecting me. My budget is virtually non existant (to a reasonable degree), around $8000-$10,000, but that figure includes monitors, keyboard, mouse, headset etc as well as the insane amount of water cooling equipment I have in my cart (and I live in Australia where I pay quite a bit more for hardware) Preferred retailer is PCCasegear.com.au - All parts listed can be purchased from there and they have some, if not the, cheapest prices here. EDIT: I also had a question about the WC which I couldn't find an answer to. I'll be putting a 480mm Rad in push/pull both on top of the case and on the bottom. Should the airflow direction be: Both up (towards/out the top of the case) or Top rad up and bottom rad down (so both are pushing hot air out of the case rather the bottom flooding it in)? EDIT2: My god I forgot how expensive WC parts can get (when I go overboard), those 42 compression fittings really start to add up.. to over $300 >.<
  15. GaiusMaxwell

    Official OCC 2013 Christmas Contest

    I must have the worst luck lol. Entered every year since 2008 and haven't been lucky enough to take home a prize yet, but there is always next year! Congrats to all the winners and merry christmas
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