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faheyd

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Posts posted by faheyd


  1. By far this is the best board i have ever had to install, to put my machine together, get windows installed and boot into XP pro it took me about 3 hours, flat out amazing, the card is great, that is once you get the drivers down, i had alot of trouble with them not working the first month or so and finally after about my fifth install of the drivers they are working, keep the card, runs great on my 5.1 with games, movies, music, basically everything i throw at it

    It's best not to be on crack during your first post here.

    What are you talking about? SB Audigy, onboard ACL850, crack, meth, what, what are you talking about? And fix your sig too.


  2. Oops sorry i forgot the post about running memtest overnight... Yeah i did that (from the bios) and it ran smoothly till the next morning

    Before the pro's step in, please give the following info:

     

    1. OS and patch level, like Xp service pack 2 ?

     

    2. Have you install the NF4 chipset drivers from Nvidia? What rev ?

     

    3. Did you turn off the On-Board sound in your bios?

     

    4. When you installed the sound drivers did everything go smoothly?

     

    5. Have you updated the drivers for the Audigy2 to the latest from Creative and did that go smoothly?

     

    added, 6. Try moving card to the 3rd pci slot from bottom?


  3. I guess I'm missing the analogy here. Once the IHS is removed successfully and the proper heatsink is used there is no more chance of something going wrong with the processor then if it had the IHS on.

     

    You're not missing anything, you're OK. The guess by the OP is that the HS may have come loose enough for the CPU to not get enough heat transfer and it fried. Something that can happen in seconds. Without the IHS, there is now more room between the actual CPU chip and the HS, so depending on how you are attaching the HS, there may be alittle bit more 'play' between the two.

    But that's my opinion, I'm not a pro like HG or RG.


  4. Please someone help :(

     

    Hi Xrez,

    You haven't done what I've asked. Do what I said in the first post and then someone will help you. If I were you and I was not passing memtest, I would search on memory settings for your memory and the expert board. We're waiting on you.

    Thanks,

    Dylan

     

    P.S. really can't' go forward on 'crashing' until it is known that your hardware is set right, that is why a 'good' memtest is a great starting point for troubleshooting.


  5. I use these: http://www.trittontechnologies.com/products/TRIUA501.htm for gaming.

     

    Does it do 5.1, no. None of them do unless the game itself outputs 5.1 sound.

    Does it sound good, yes it does.

    Would I recommend it, no, it's heavy and hurts your ears after awhile. You can do better with a high quality lighter stereo headset and mic.

     

    The zalmans are a joke, see http://www.tweaknews.net/reviews/zhead/index3.php , as they are not really 5.1 either, there is no sub at all, so I don't know where they think that they are 5.1, they are 4.1 at best. The wiring in those is a little spooky too, as you will find out when you do the 5.1 test via your sound card (whatever card that may be. The sub/center channel is broke, only one of them works, I gave up and sent them back.


  6. there are soo many dates in the rebate program, that i am confused :blink: ...

     

    also, lets say there is a RAM, which is for $202, but has a $50 rebate on it, till 7th June 2006 :P....in the pdf file explaining the rebate, its written that the rebate must be claimed within 30 days of purchase...

     

    so what does this mean ??

     

    say, i order the RAM from newegg on 7th June (last day of rebate), and the item arrives about a week later...can I still claim the rebate ? I mean, does the deadline requirement look at when u made the order (7th June), or when u recieved ur order (about 14 June).....??

     

    also, the 30 days rebate claim time, from what point does this period start ? from the point i made the order (7th June), or from when I recieve the item (about 14 June)...??

     

    lastly :nod: ....

     

    assuming the 30 days start from the point I recieve the order (about 14th June)...so that I can claim the rebate till about 14th July...now, what does the 14th July deadline mean ? that it is the last day on which I can send the rebate form from my end ? or the last day on which the rebate form must be recieved at the other end ??

     

    hope someone can clear my confusion...

    by the way, the RAM i was refering to was : http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16820145575 :D

     

    Please be advised that most rebates are valid in United States only. You must have a U.S. mailing address. See the fine print in the lower/bottom part of the rebate form.


  7. Thanks Ace. I'm still planning on doing some more isolation and benchmarking for the drives... but it's been a packed couple of days for me. I'm also about to rebuild my linux server using the most recent batch of spare parts. Anyhow, over this weekend I should be able to get some more tests in on different configurations... maybe even install the card and drives in another machine for benching, depending on time. And a new batch of SCA adapters (all LVD Ultra320) is slated to arrive early next week.

     

    Hopefully I'll be able to post some new test data over the next few days.

     

    -m

     

    What happened with this thread?


  8. well the issue is the strangest thing ive seen. coz the port is still operational and i can ping the router, tracert the router and dive in thru IE but cant access anything else - no internet or other PCs. also, cant ipconfig /renew coz the CLI cant find the port to renew the IP address. then at a random time - itll just start working again.

     

    well, i had enough in the end.

     

    spooky, ghosts in da machine....

    So when you ipconfig that network interface never showed up ???

    crazy. In that case, I would have deleted the device and let windows rediscover it, just for grins to see what happened.

    that or loaded up linux and see if it was my os that was the problem.


  9. :shake: :shake: Lmao

     

    An easy to hardware check the nics on that board is to enable both ethernet ports, put different network subnet addresses on them. Plug in ONE network cable from one nic port to the other. Then ping each nic, should work. Haven't tried it, but I bet it would work. Don't have a firewall running when you do it.

     

    (you might have issues with the 'default gateway', but you can work them out.)

     

    another thing to try and fix the 'auto negotiation' to 100 full duplex and see if'n that will work. Since both ports don't work, which is rare since you are talking about two diff chips onboard, that actually points to the hub/router you have and not the M/B. Do any firmware upgrades on the router, look at the port setup in it and see if anything looks strange. Restart the router to 'default' and rebuild your settings.

    Some of those things might have worked, rather than going out and buying another nic.


  10. Even better now.

     

    The USB ports on the back don't work 100% of the time, save my wireless mouse. Also, USB #2 onboard (for case connection) doesn't work 20% of the time .. no thumbdrives, no usb hub

     

    Here we go ... I have a USB keyboard plugged in, WinXP will not boot until I unplug the keyboard. This is happeneing on a Zboard, and a Logitech DiNovo (non-bluetooth) wireless keyboard.

     

    Any idea?

     

    I too have problems with all those usb ports on the back of the dfi board. I just moved things around until I found the right combination. No real T/S involved, just hunt and peck. USB stuff is the least of my problems.


  11. I found none of those on Newegg, but I found an enermax one that looks about the same

     

    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?...N82E16817103512

     

    It says it has a 1 x 12V (P4 8pin) (Include 8pin to 4pin adapter)

     

    Will it be good enough?

    That's the one I got (I'm pretty sure), and it has plenty of connectors, surprising, you will use most of them. Also has a fan speed adjustment, I've used it once to set up the speed, haven't touched it since. Very quiet. I can tell you though that having 120mm case fans make the whole world alot quieter.


  12. Ace went to sleep before he got my PM, but this is indeed a SATA II drive as spec'd by seagate on their rather 'quaint' spec page:

    http://www.seagate.com/support/disc/specs/...t3250624as.html

     

    It has a rather strong sustained transfer rate along with 16mb cache, can't argue with that. If you've been sitting on the fence, these would be nice to Raid0 and do video work on.

     

    FORMATTED CAPACITY (GB) __________________250

    ACTUATOR TYPE ____________________________VOICE COIL

    MEDIA TYPE _______________________________THIN FILM

    HEAD TYPE ________________________________GMR

    RECORDING METHOD _________________________EPRML 16/17 ZBR

    INTERNAL TRANSFER RATE (Mbits/sec) _______up to 867.2

    SUSTAINED TRANSFER RATE (Mbytes/sec)______up to 76.6

    EXTERNAL TRANSFER RATE (Mbytes/sec) ______up to 300

    PIO/DMA/UDMA MODE (max) __________________4/2/5

    SPINDLE SPEED (RPM) ______________________7200

    AVERAGE LATENCY (mSEC) ___________________4.16

    BUFFER ___________________________________16MB

    Read/Write Multiple, Read Look-Ahead,

    Multi-Segmented

    INTERFACE ________________________________SATA 2.0 w/NCQ


  13. Hello,

     

    If the BIOS detects the USB floppy drive (and if you can boot from it), then yes.

     

    If you are not going to run the SATA drive in a RAID mode you do not need to install the drivers.

     

    You know, I wish there was a big red sticker on SATA drives that says, "If you are going to install windows on this drive, disconnect PATA (ide) drives prior to installation. It would have saved me a day in trouble shooting. :drool:


  14. Yea, I guess I gotta overcome my fear. But what if it break off this time? Is there a way to fix it if it does? I put a pea size on last time, literally the size of a pea, is that too much?

    Yes, pea is too big, rice grain size is all you need. If a pin breaks off, you are DOA and you will need to buy a new cpu. Next time, after the case is open and the cpu has been on for 10 minutes, turn it off, unclip the cpu and 'twist' not 'pull' the heatsink off. There is a little suction that twisting will overcome rather than the suction of pulling the sink off.

    There are tutorials/vids here for doing the build, they work! Watch/Read them. The pins are durable, you would have to really abuse them to break one off. On the other hand, the Intel 775s sockets suck for durability.

     

    EDIT: If you can possibly find a deal on a 7800 or 7900, that is the way to go. Getting 30fps from a plain jane 6600 is actually OK. Turn down all your settings in game to low, that should help, turn off vert sync too, don't use AA with that card, it just don't have the horsepower for todays games.


  15. Hey i have had my following machine for about 6 months now, but recently while playing games the machine freezes and i have to hard reset the machine to restart, here are my specifications;

     

    AMD 64 3700+ (939)

    DFI SLI-DR Expert (939)

    4 x 512MB Crucial Ballistix PC3200 DDR400 (2GB)

    BFG 7800GT PCI-E 256MB

    2 x (2 X 200GB Seagate SATA)

    600W Emeramax NoiseTaker

     

    Cheers

     

    Occaisionally, I get a bad video driver load and things crap out until I figure out that, "Oh yeah, I did that update last week!", and then I revert the drivers and all is well.

    I just loaded the beta nvidia drivers for my vid card and all hell broke loose, no screen on os load, had to go into safe mode and revert back to the old drivers. So much for keeping up with the Jones'.

    So, try and remember if you've done anything like load a patch or update a driver, sometimes you can trace it back to that.


  16. D-Link DUB-H7 7-Port USB 2.0 Hub $27.99 minus $10 rebate.

    $17.99 After Rebate with Free Shipping

    Rebates take about 2 months from DLink. Keep all copies of UPC and Receipts.

    I bought this one for my brother last year and he's had no problems as with other cheap usb hubs.

    Hub:

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/rebates/B...R&s=electronics

    rebate listed on amazon above

    PriceGrabber:

    http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_getprod...type=bottomline


  17. Has anyone ever had any problems with the USB hub built into the Dell 2005FPW monitor? It's plugged into a rear USB port, and listed as a generic USB hub in the device manager. BUT, its VERY inconsistent in seeing things plugged into in. I never had this problem until I upgraded to this board.

    I didn't have good luck with mine either, so I just don't use it anymore. I had a headset and other things that just wouldn't work.

    This one is mostly reliable:

    http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_getprod...type=bottomline

     

    D-Link DUB-H7 7-Port USB 2.0 Hub

    (SKU: DUBH7)

    Price Range: $24.87 - $50.36 from 37 Sellers

    Rebates & Special Offers: $10 Rebate available

     

    Oh, there is a $10 rebate available till end of May. But even at 28 bucks, it's a deal, as you have no more headaches. Things get a little tight if you use memory sticks, but just spread them out.

     

    Note about rebate: Keep copies of UPC and rebate for records. Also, DLink rebates take 3 months for the check to get to you.

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