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bldegle2

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Posts posted by bldegle2


  1. question, does it run fine stock???

     

    as far as components go, they all vary, heck, even motherboards of the same brand and model will clock diferently from board to board using the same components (cpu/ram/etc) swapped, electrical components are like that.

     

    do you have the latest bios for the board?, i know there have been updates in that department.

     

    clocking is a kraap shoot anyway.

     

    have you tried to clock with a minimum build, one stick of ram, a HD, CPU and CD rom, and then tried clocking???

     

    BTW, your MB is one of the better AM2 clockers, just like the 570 and 590 versions of the same board....

     

    laterzzz.......


  2. "Socket 939 - Help overclocking ?

     

    I have got the cpu as high as 2950s but I didn't want to push it too much over 1,4volts..."

     

    >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>......

     

    what exactly do you want to do, it appears you got a good clock already. if you have good aftermarket cooling on the CPU you should be able to go over 1.4v on the vcore.

     

    as far as the stock DFI chipset cooler, can it and put on an evercool VC-RE or an HR-5, it will cool the chipset mucho better....

     

    secondary timings on the ram will help a lot with the higher HTT frequencies, however, the CPU mem controller may be weak, and no matter what you do, that little problem can't be overcome, well it can, but you have to get another CPU.....

     

    BTW, it would behoove you to create a signature, part of the forums rules, especially when asking for help....

     

    laterzzz.....


  3. uh, maybe you got a clunker clocker, it happens.

     

    not all 3600+ make it to 2.9, i have a 3600+ brisby on the test bench, no way is it stable w/four 1 gig sticks of Adata PC800 @anything over 2.7+.

     

    when you clock, this kind of stuff happens, Ebay is your friend for unloading your replaced CPU....when you get around to it.

     

    also, in the past i figured the top or close to top of the line AMD processor would bring me better clocks, but this is not particulary true, and after spending way too much on high end processors, i just gave in and researched for the 'hot one', got it, maybe two (uh, for comparative clocking:) ), then went for it.

     

    laterzzz..


  4. "300Mhz HTT but the bad news is that it fails Orthos in a miserable few seconds"

     

    >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

     

    yeah, progress....i still don't see whether you ran the CPU only and Ram only tests in Orthos. you keep refering to failing Orthos, however, i suspect you are running the blend test only, if you run the separate tests on CPU only and ram only you will be surprised at some of the results............

     

    and you will pinpoint the problem area.....

     

    step by step if you want solid results...

     

    laterzzzzzz.....


  5. "My guess is that the memory might be the problem. Or I might have a bad sample..."

     

    >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

     

    as i alluded to in an earlier post, Orthos can run CPU only stress or Ram only stress, you can isolate the weak link by running a separate stress test on the CPU and ram, thus pinpointing the weak link for clocking purposes.....

     

    do this and you will find your parameters, right now all you are doing is a little this and a little that with no plan...

     

    dividers are your friend...

     

    laterz...


  6. it is much more viable to go with 2x1024.....on the other hand, if you are running stock only, then you have a better chance with the 4x512...

     

    i tried four sticks of identical Gskill PC4800 TCCD stuffs, spent many hours trying to make it work, had my best luck running default speed on the CPU, but still never 100% trustworthy....

     

    matching sticks (exactly the same, manu'd in the same time frame) is the best way to go. even if you buy the same ram, unless you get the same sticks manu'd the same time as your present ram, there could be differences in the PCB and/or chipset.....

     

    i know this isn't what you wanted to hear....

     

    but it may save you money and frustration...

     

    laterz


  7. sounds more like the ram is suspect. run either Memtest or Orthos ram test to determine if the sticks are bad. as far as the CPU goes, bent pins don't hurt the runnings as long as you can get them straigthened out and in the ZIFF.....

     

    with Orthos you can do many different tests, CPU only and Ram only come to mind, you might want to run each separately, it may isolate the problem. there is Memtest too, another good way to test the ramski...

     

    good luck...


  8. also, another tip here.

     

    with Orthos you have the option to pick the type of stress test, CPU only, CPU and Ram (blend test we all use), Ram only. anyway.......

     

    what I do to test where the instability is coming from is to isolate the stress testing to CPU only and Ram only on separate runs, this will tell you which is the culprit, CPU or Ram....once you find the weak link you can then formulate a plan..........

     

    this is pretty much the general plan for clocking anyway.........

     

    glad to hear it is running solid now...

     

    laterz..


  9. "This is the second time in two weeks that I've lost my sound."

     

    >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.

     

    i would be suspecting the onboard sound chipset is going fubar, prolly time to RMA....unless there is a HUGE conflict with something else you have installed...i am using the default drivers for the onboard sound on mine, never a problem....i went to onboard after having some problems with my Audigy II card (ocassional blue screens out of nowhere)...and i read there can be problems with the Audigy II SC and a DFI....

     

    hopefully the drivers from Realtek will help.

     

    good luck..

     

    laterz


  10. "Your chip runs nice and cool! Im going to try to lower the voltages and keep stability."

     

    >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

     

    coolit freezer is in the house, idling @15*C right now, around 35* to 38*C under full load....i have Promethia phase unit in mothballs, and i much prefer the Coolit unit, so much easier to use....

     

    laterz.


  11. um, just off the top of my head......no it won't work.

     

    first of all, running with four sticks of matched ram may not work in the DFI, so trying to run with mismatched sticks is a recipe for a big no way Jose.....

     

    what is it you do that requires 4 gigs of ram????

     

    even if you acquired another 2 gigs of either ramski (exactly the same stuffs, PCB and chips), the DFI would more than likely balk. you have much better chance if running @default speeds, but even then is can be frustrating.

     

    laterz,


  12. if what you are saying is true, it sounds like the cpu is degrading.

     

    however, i take most of what people say with a huge grain of salt as i/we have no way to know what kind of mad skills the OP has.

     

    generally speaking if you were getting a top clock of 2.6 on your ASUS with that CPU, you should get about the same on a DFI, maybe more just because of the many options...don't expect your new setup to magically make the SAME cpu sing @2.9gig or more, just ain't gonna happen, unless the original clockage was suspect to begin with.....

     

    i know this wasn't much help, and, if you search properly, there is an overclocking 101 thread here that should answer just about any question you may have about A64 settings and whatever....

     

    laterz.


  13. do you have all FOUR power connectors attached to the board??? had to ask.

     

    also, it could be your PS, even though it is on the DFI approved list, it can be taxed with big draw vid cards. in my system, the OCZ 520 adjustable just barely holds on with my x1950xtx.

     

    it could be one of those rare instances that OCZ PS is starting to fail.

     

    and, just as others have said, jumping the PS doesn't prove anything other than the unit is 'alive', it will tell you nothing about ACTUAL volts and amps. the feedback circuit could be reading out of spec, causing the problem you are experiencing. it could also be your MB that is going south.

     

    troublingshooting sucks sometimes.

     

    laterz


  14. you have proven your MB does not work with the one orange slot, what other verification do you need????

     

    personally, i could not trust a board that has a 'non-working' slot, it can't be trusted, and with my personal experience gained handling/fixing wacko systems, motherboard problems are the worst, after numerous sessions cracking my head against the wall I found the best thing to do is move on, ie, get another board, you will be much happier...

     

    i am not sure about the DFI warranty, but it is from the date of purchase based on your dated receipt.

     

    laterz


  15. get some conjones and use the bios to do your clockage...:)

     

    also, if i am reading your posts right, you have only one orange slot that works anyway, so i would conclude your MB has some issues....the yellow slots are a bit unfriendly, at least in my experience............

     

    since your board has apparent trouble with the other orange memory slot i doubt you can trust a memtest run with the good orange one or the yellow slots. it also sounds like you may have a dodgey stick of ramski, double whammy....:sad:

     

    i would be contacting DFI for possible RMA if you are still covered...

     

    bummer...

     

    laterz

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