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bldegle2

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Posts posted by bldegle2


  1. PCB on my TCCD.

     

    stock x for a 2800+ is 9x. never presented a problem. however, 8.5x is so squirely..........................

     

    runs 2550 with ease, but when i use the 8.5x and 300HTT, a no go, yet 9x300HTT will boot, go figure. i have been reading about the drive strength and clocking, going to experiment with this, got three more daze to play before work resumes anew.

     

    presently running 9x275 1/1 (2.5,3,3,7) for a nice comfortable and very stable clock.

     

    baldy:D


  2. be careful with the use of the headers, they can't take much amps, so if you are running an 80mm case fan off of them, you might be getting into dangerous territory.

     

    general rule of thumb, especially if clocking, don't use the MB pinouts unless you are running small fans off of them. they have a tendancy to fail when overloaded. i feel it helps with stability if you don't use the MB fan headers, cleaner power to the MB.

     

    .3 amp used to be the limit, it may vary from manu to manu, i am sure a quick email to the manu will get you the info.

     

    i remember the Abit's from years past, the fan headers would fail almost immediately on a lot of their boards, that was when i went to a 5.25 baybus fan controller and haven't looked back.

     

    clock on.

     

    baldy:D


  3. i have put three sticks of 512 in mine, works great running at stock, definately not recommended if clocking even a smidgen.

     

    one stick Corsair pc3200 BH-5 and two sticks of Mushkin Level 11, PC3500 BH-5 stuffs. CPU-Z recognized all of them and the system properties>general tab showed the full 1.5gig.

     

    have you tried switching mem slots with the ram, it just may be that they have to be configured in a different slot arrangement to work?

     

    if you tried this already, i apologise.

     

    baldy

     

    :D


  4. i was getting cold boot problems at the higher FSB, and even though stable once up and running, the cold boot issue was a concern.

     

    my work around was to disconnect the PS just prior to a cold boot, discharge the PS, plug in the power again, whammo, into winders everytime. strange. this is with BH-5 memory.

     

    then i got the Gskill ram, and the cold boot problems went away altogether, hmm..............................

     

    take it for what its worth, but a lot of times it is not the board, but other components just not liking to work when pushed to the max.

     

    i also found the board's little quirks disappeared with the Gskill and the MUCH lower vdimm.

     

    just something to think about when getting the max out of your rig...................................

     

    baldy:D


  5. "make it a hell of a work to get my card out of the agp slot. So I broke that leaver of."

     

    >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.

     

    instead of breaking the lock off, i use a 10" plastic rod, or you can use a flathead screwdriver, just make sure to be careful the system PS is unplugged and you have discharged the remaining PS power by hitting the on switch.

     

    then, just push the lever down w/your instrument of choice and it will come out nicely. fingers definately won't work.

     

    baldy

    :D


  6. post at over 3.6 because of the board itself, it has a sensor that shuts the system down if the line gets too high.

     

    the only way to get around it is to use the OCZ ram booster, then crank the volts up to whatever you want above 3.6 with the booster's onboard dial.

     

    or, do like i did, i just got the gskill ram and can run higher HTT, 1/1, and @2.7/2.8 vdimm, 9x275, 2.5,3,3,7 1t (2x512 sticks).

     

    and, one other thang, some of the boards just go bonkers when feeding all the extra juice to run this and that, facilitating a resave of the bios settings to get her all running nicely again.

     

    i luv this gskill stuffs.

     

    baldy:D


  7. me thinks you need to cruize your bios and get matters staightened.

     

    the fan problem is all contained on the bios, and a lot of the fan control functions (even stuff in the bios) can be adjusted from windows w/SmartGuardian, hint, it came on your MB CD.

     

    as far as the chipset, bad spot, yes.

     

    as far as the Sata, a little dicey, but there are workarounds.

     

    as far as your P4 connector goes, reroute the sucker, jeesh.

     

    once set up properly, they do work nicely.

     

    good luck.

     

    baldy:D


  8. pots it can be done.

     

    i just got the OCZ 520w PS, it allows up to 3.8+ to be sent to the 3.3 line.

     

    BTW, ram is about the only thing that runs off the 3.3 (especially with the DFI's), so jacking will not hurt anything except the ram itself (over time).

     

    if you get this PS, you will get about 3.6 max to the ram, the amount of juice available is about .15 less that the overall output (the 3.8 i spoke about).

     

    also, the MB will not post if the ram volts are above 3.6, it has overvolt protection beyond that.............

     

    baldy:D


  9. i can not adjust the vcore, vdimm or chipset voltages in the bios, well, i can change them, but they stay at default. the AGP is not affected by this, it still is adjustable. also, the FSB was funky, like 2800+ had reverted to a mobile (it is NOT a mobile) as it was posting, with everything at auto in the bios, @143 FSB???????

     

    this is what i have done so far, cleared cmos and reflashed the bios. i have everything set to auto in the bios and it is working fine running stock, the FSB seems to have stopped its odd behavior. i can crank her up to 250 FSB with everything on auto, was previously running 9X274, 1/1 with the BH-5, even without the OCZ booster as i have the 3.3 cranked via pot to 3.6 giving about 3.4+ to the ram, but now only 2.5 is available, limiting the FSB to 250 or so, max.

     

    any suggestions would be nice, i did run with the OCZ ram booster for a couple of days, but pulled it out two days ago when i started getting some funky volt readings, and stuff returned to normal with its removal, but, now this.

     

    anyway, i am now thinking the board is going south on me, only had it for a couple of months.

     

    any input or guideage towards a possible thread to review here @DFI regarding similiar problems would be appreciated.

     

    thanks,

     

    baldy:D

     

    further updateness, the 143FSB happens when i set the FSB to 250 in the bios, now i am thoroughly confused. i also removed all PCI cards except the vid, still the same problem.


  10. By the way, even the booster screwd things up after a while corupting the bios and stuff - like now I had to turn the comp of and leave it for like 10 min where it then resets the Vdimm to 2.5 (even though it says 3.3 in bios!)

     

    >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

     

    just to add to this little nugget of infos, i was using the booster in my DFI, after a couple of daze it started some strange stuffs.

     

    the vdimm stayed at the higher settings no problem, but the vcore adjustments just wouldn't take in the bios anymore, i did find out that my 2800+ runs nicely @2484 @1.48 vcore, but that isn't the point.

     

    i thought my board was going south, but since the booster is all that i changed, i figured, WTF, pulled it, and, walla, all the adjustablity to the vcore CAME BACK.

     

    the booster only got me .05 net more than what my already adjusted 3.3 line (3.6) would supply the vdimm (3.43/3.48 actual), so out she stays.

     

    happy to hear the bios updateness worked for you.

     

    baldy


  11. with a nude cpu.

     

    to compensate for the lid removal on the cpu, i carefully sanded the four buttons down on the bottom bracket, and also around where the screws fit, got a nice flat fit that was a bit lower than stock, the xp-120 went right on and works great.

     

    and, yes, with a 120mm fan the ram gets some nice air blowing its way..............

     

    baldy:D


  12. don't cheap out, especially if you plan on clocking right away, or later on.

     

    yes, there are many coolers that work and work great for normal, non overclocked systems, but few work properly with a chip that has the cover off (DTR/mobiles).

     

    if you plan on playing just even a little bit, get a Thermaltake unit, you will be set.

     

    baldy:D


  13. your opticals causing the problem.

     

    i have had opticals work fine in one setup, and sometimes give read errors in others. try a different drive as suggested.

     

    i would also clean the disk carefully, just in case there is any imbedded fingerprint type oils in da grooves...................

     

    if none of this helps, i would be looking at the ram as a possibility................

     

    baldy

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