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Posts posted by bldegle2

  1. despite having the system response feel better, the DVD playback is still fubared.


    tried a different player (Blaze DVD), works but is choppy.


    off to google again, most references are to burned DVD's not working properly, i am having problems with the originals.


    the main reason i want this resolved is that i have a feeling that DVD burning may be affected if there is something amiss with the IDE interface/drivers, i have a lot of older picture CD's that i want to consolodate onto one giant disk.



  2. anyway, i have been reading that the NV drivers are not good for DVD playback and, of course, i was having problems with my DVD playback.


    i had loaded the NV parallel drivers along with the serial drivers, so, taking the advise to switch back to the M$ ide drivers, i do the deed, reboot, everything okay, not.


    anyway, radlinker went nuts, kept this endless loop of reinstalling (windows installer going nuts) radlinker over and over again. WTF, go to safe mode, won't let me uninstall.


    back to regular desktop, finally, after waiting for three or for reinstalls with every mouse click, i get to add/remove programs and unistall radlinker, reboot, then reinstall the Omega's.


    problem solved, wondering if anyone else had run into the same problem when changing back.


    this is what she looks like now.




    still haven't tested the DVD playback yet.


    edit: talk about a system boost, the regular M$ drivers are the kabob, i can only assume that isolating the sata boot drive just let loose the quicker system response. photoshop literaly opens in a flash, totally amazed. it is across the board, everything is faster, and it was pretty fast to begin with.



  3. two things.


    stock heatsink, on air you are pushing it hard.


    and, i noticed three sticks of ram. this is ALWAYS a problem, especially when going for max clockage.


    it is much better to run with two if clocking (2x256 or 2x512, and they should be exact matching sticks, it is just much better that way), stock settings should perform nicely with the three sticks.



  4. there are two things to check, first would be the way you plugged stuff in, have you tried switching rears to front and visa versa? i have to assume you did this first.


    next, when in winders, you gotta config the sound setup, which you probably did also (four speaker or 5.1 and so on), you have to change it in two places, first, control panel> sounds, speaker setup. secondly, the interface utility that comes with the onboard sound stuffs, it has to be checked and modified too, plus it has that nice testing sequence for sounding to each speaker separately, much like the Audigy S/C line has.


    if you did both of these and you are still having problems, then i would be thinking maybe the onboard sound might be a bit wacko, i am sure an email or call to tech support would garner an RMA authorization.


    i don't know if a bios reflash will help as i believe the onboard sound is MB directly controlled, except for the bios on/off selection.


    good luck.



  5. the current a64's vary all over the board, just not the best internal sensing going on.


    depending on cpu used, your idle temps could vary by as much as 10*C.


    for example, i am running with an xp-120, got a 120mm 120CFM Delta (running @7volts), my idle temps are around 42/43*c @1.6vre.


    i have a 2800+ Newcastle too, and it idles @50*c+ at the same vre settings, same setup.


    i have not had any heat related problems, i used to worry about it, but after reading post after post at different BBS's, and especially here, it is nothing to worry about.



  6. i have no complaints.


    it is a lot better to run @2.8vdimm than cranking my board via pots to 3.5+vdimm for the BH-5 stuffs at the same speed.


    my motherboard likes the lower volts too, something strange happens when i crank the 3.3 up to max (3.82), not right away, but sooner or later i have to reset some parameters in the bios, then all is well for awhile.


    i know it is the vdimm setting, as it hasn't happened since getting the Gskill stuffs and running the lower vdimm.


    just make sure to get the LE stuffs, whether a 512 kit or the gig.



  7. Yea...i'd think a 64bit system would boot a lot faster then my old XP setup




    but the 64 bit OS needs time to mature as the driver issues abound, plus there are not that many apps, nor any games that run in 64bit. it will take some time for drivers to appear and what not..........................


    if you want to test the waters, you can download a beta copy of WinXP 64 bit and try it yourself, free, for a whole year. just go to Micro$haft, sign up, download, and install....................



  8. "i had mine from cpucity.co.uk generally a very good place to get stuff, so why i have a duff board i will never know."




    they did not manufacture the item, a few lemons exist in the wild for all manu's.


    try a different PS is you can, it can make a huge difference sometimes. have you tested your ram in another rig that is known for good FSB clocks already??? maybe someone here could test your BH-5 in a similiar board???


    and, if it will make you feel any better, when i had my DFI NF2 boards, about 225 with my BH5 was very comfortable with two of the boards, higher and sometimes i would get strange, err, occurances. this same ram ran up to 270+ on the DFI a64 board, i am sure it was the board as i had four of these boards and each one had a 'personality.:nod: the other two were real nice clockers on the FSB, but i destroyed them with my own experiments, fueled by greed to clock the bus even more..........:angel: yes, they are in MB heaven right now.



  9. i do know the PCI slot right under the AGP slot shared (with AGP) and generally should be used if you use a capture card for video editing. most people that clock like mad can't use the slot anyway because of vid card mods.


    the way windows handles IRQ's nowadaze is a cakewalk compared to even just a few years back..............:D


    just out of curiosity, are you having problems????



  10. #1, i have no answer for you, i am using it with some 5.1 Creative units, works very nicely. don't know about the sound 'lag', i am admittedly a 'lame gamer', ie, hardly do it at all, except for one sims game, Nascar....................


    #2, the onboard NIC problem i have experienced on more than one board, and with different manu's. and it gets worse if you clock, just one of those quirks. i use a PCI nic card on all my stuffs and with the builds i do now, just saves the hassle of a phone call later on.


    and, yeah, ditto on the turn off of XP's native firewall if you are behind a router/gateway.....................................



  11. hardrive and do a fresh install with your OS, then slave the bad drive with the hopes you can recover the data with either burnage or direct transfer to new drive. i would perform a disk check first to see if the drive is going bad (disk manager from your HD manu).


    i just went through a baffling sequence with a hard drive, i have an 80 gigger housed in a USB 2.0 external, turns out it was buggering the whole system, even running USB and as a storage drive not in use, only plugged in.


    i got four 80gig hard drives at the same time, ALL of them went South about the same time, and about two months out of warranty. Maxtor did not have any simpathy to my pleas that they had to be defective from manu, i mean, how could a storage drive go belly up while resting 99.99% of the time..............and strangely all went at the same time, heavily used or just idling.




    :D :D

  12. you shouldnt have to modify it to work (ie: the 948 doesnt need modifying)




    it is advisable to sand the standoffs down a bit on the xp-120. The lid that comes off the cpu is rather thick, and by sanding the bracket, you lower the heatsinks surface and improve the tension. not doing it means the tension on the clips will be rather low, add a heavy 38mm fan...........possible minor heatsink tilt or just plain bad contact....................


    i went one step further, i took a pair of pliers and carefully bent the all clips to provide even a bit more tension.


    anyone of these heatsinks will do the job, and the ultimate clockage will be the same no matter which one you use, temps are basically within 1*/2*c across the board.


    clock on.



  13. no problem.


    i figured that if the stuff works good in an NF3, it should do well in an NF2.


    i have an Abit NF7-S v 2.0 w/2500+mobile hanging out on the work bench, maybe i should give it a go with the TCCD and see what is.



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