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Posts posted by bldegle2

  1. on the 9800's, whether ATI or Sapphire (they make/have made the PCB's anyway for ATI), have a tendency to get skewed if slightly mishandled, they are attached with two of the worlds weakest spring system tabs, i have had this problem before, sometimes i swear i never touched my vid card, but after making sure the cooling was absolutely flat on the GPU again, things worked fine. some of the aftermarket sinks and tabs aren't much better.


    if your AGP is locked @66 in the bios, out of habit i set mine to 67.............


    drivers can cause this problem too.


    as far as your Maxtor drive (s) going south, i a a real bad run with them when the 80gig, 8 meggers came out, bought 4, all of them went bellyup, and all just after the 1 year warranty expired.


    7 x 80mm case fans??? could also be part of the problem. when i was running massive fannage in the past, sometimes one fan would be going bad and could cause problems with fluctuating volts/amp demands as the fan slowly deteriorated.


    just some ideas.


    baldy :shake:

  2. "b/c i went up to the part where xp asks for the cd-key.. i restarted many times to somehow find a way to escape that step.."




    hehe, ain't gonna happen.


    the OS install isn't going to fubar the bios, basically only you or extreme overclocking are the only things that will fubar the bios.


    you need to attend to the display problem first, once that is fixed, reformat the hard drive and install a good copy of Win XP Pro, you can get a legal XP CD with and install key for about $50. just do a net search, you will get lots of hits.


    try "XP CD cheap" as a search and see what happens. i just did and got tons of hits.


    baldy :nod:

  3. you are going to find that running in a raid config (sata?, i am assuming) that using 1 & 2 will limit the HTT to around 240, using 3 & 4 will allow a higher clock, different sata chipset.


    sounds to me as if maybe your ram may not be up to the task, i have never heard of Crucial Ballistic Tracer stuffs (i have of course heard of Crucial), what are the timings?


    you may also have to bump the voltage to the ram, 211 sounds weak for DDR500 in that board, oops, look at my sig. what multiplier are you using?


    there are some sticky's (hint, third from top) here that maybe you should read on various bios and voltage settings, very helpful for getting started.


    welcome to the forums.


    baldy :nod:

  4. you should be able to bring over your present ram and run it with a divider. it is DDR of some kind, yes????


    saves some more cash, then when you can afford some good clocking ramski, go for it.


    i think you are worrying too much about the ram department, present TCCD in the one to go with, many manu's still putting these out. when it comes to getting the ram you want, just do some minor research for the hot ticket ram at the time and you :nod: will have your answers.



  5. here on the converters.


    gave it plenty of tries, actually got it to work for awhile in a raid config, but it always crapped sooner or later, usually one drive wouldn't detect, reboot while fiddling with converter, then it would work.


    it will not work to your satisfaction, i can guarantee. corruption is a 100% possibility...................................... :nod:


    native drives are the only way to go, have them on my DFI, work great.



  6. you don't need a boot cd per say, what i am saying is you boot to the formatting CD that came with your hard drive. if you didn't get one, then you will have to download the stuffs from their website and make one.


    you will have to set the bios to boot to CD first, then the CD will implement, then from there you follow the instructions, it is fairly self explainatory. the cloning/copy program is one of the options, in fact, if memory serves me correctly, it will be an option offerd to you during the setup process. just don't move on until you have verified that you are doing the correct transfer to the proper partition.....................................


    sorry for the confusion, i have done this several times with good success, and for me to lay out each step once into the formatting CD, i would have to throw one in and see what is. not gonna do that.


    baldy :nod:

  7. if you have a recent CD for either Maxtor or WD, is to boot to CD while the drives are in the box, then when it comes to formatting you will come across a selection to actually 'clone/copy' from one to the other.


    i have done this a couple of times and it worked fine, and it saved a ton of time. i only recommend you do this if your present OS is in perfect condition with no issues at all, cause when you bring the issues over, it can come back to bite you in da arse.


    of course, you are going to have to do some bios boot changes when done, and the Sata port you use will have something to say, but you will figure this out soon enough. :nod:



  8. sounding like a fubared vid card.


    while upping the memory voltage can help with stability, it will not help a fubared vid card. you should triple check the heatsink attachment on the vid card, depending on the ATI model you are using, the heatsink can get slightly 'askew' from even light handling, and the resultant heat problems can generate tons of video problems.....................get the heatsink properly aligned, the video problems will probably go away if not fried too much in the interum.


    just my take,


    good luck.



  9. is very simple, IF YOU PAY ATTENTION.


    boot up your other NF4 board, make sure WinFlash is loaded with the OS, then, leaving the unit running, carefully pop out the bios chip and install the one you want to hot flash, then flash it with the correct bios for your other board, you will have to force the flash as winflash will tell you it is not for your MB.


    Once flash is completed, shut down, pull the hotflashed chip, replace it with the original and that unit should be still good to go.


    onward to the other fubared board, stick in reflashed bios chip, boot up, pray.


    if it works, good for you, but i would be worrying that it may happen again, so get a second bios chip so you can save your a$$ quickly the next time it happens, already preflashed, sitting, safely stored, to be used if needed later on.


    good luck.


    baldy :)

  10. i only run small fans off the MB three pin connection. running 80's is pushing the circuitry on the MB.


    have you out of curiosity checked the output of your current PS, a digitial tester can be had for around $13 (Orchard Supply Hardware), then you can properly check the PS for good/bad rails.


    i am going to wait a bit before i take the plunge to this 939 board, want to see what is first this time aorund.


    good luck.


    baldy :nod:

  11. question,


    "My question is, is 12.22-12.28 normal for a 12v atx reading in ITE Guardian?"


    yes it is normal.


    it is normally a good thing to be slightly overvolted, that way you know your lines will be strong. as far as the ITE Guardian or any other temp monitoring proggies reporting correct/incorrect volts and temps, the amount they may be off is minor, i refuse to open my case and start poking around with my multitester everytime i want a really accurate reading, basically you only need to do this once, then use that data to compare to the reported volts/temps, i use it mostly to check for line drops if i have a problem, otherwise, it is unused.


    it's all relative.


    BTW, have you checked your PS fan?, i have had a few that needed replacing over the years, sqeal like a mutha at start, then howl when warmed up.





  12. memory is with a little fan strategically placed blowing over the BARE dimms.


    my personal opinion is that even with fannage, the heatspreaders have a NON FINNED, flat surface, and even with a fan, it still runs hotter than 'nude'.


    heat spreaders actually trap heat, IMHO. nice marketing ploy is about all they are.


    for heat spreaders to really work properly, it needs fins to increase the surface area to allow fast removal of heat, unfortunately, this is a problem with dimm slots being so close together, and other caps and whatever on the MB.


    been taking the spreaders off all that pass though my hands. take it for what it is worth.






  13. including me, your best bet is to use a PCI addon NIC, i have found the onboard NIC to be, err, somewhat of a problem with some boards. several systems i have built exhibit this behavior, all solved with a change to a PCI NIC.


    ever since switching, nary a problem. i have since switched to a wireless NIC, and still working like a dream.


    sorry to hear of your problems, at least there is a workaround.



  14. i think you may be getting a bit hasty with your assessment that the motherboard needs to be RMA'd, yet.


    the DTR's are not OFFICALLY supported, but many have them running in their DFI desktop rigs with good results.


    i think you are going to have to really get into the bios, make the proper changes, play, fiddle around and explore. there may be more than just a 'funky' motherboard in the mix here.


    BTW, with your ram timings, 2.5,4,4,7, change the last one to 10 (seems to be a favorite of the nividia chipset).



  15. if so, the DFI CD comes with the Winflash bios updater proggie thingy.


    just make sure the bin file is available somewhere on your harddrive, execute the Winflash proggie, update bios, done.


    very easy, i even do it when using my sig's overclockage settings like i am using now. for absolute safety, i would make sure you are running at default settings, flash, then make the bios changes to your preferences.





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