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bldegle2

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Posts posted by bldegle2


  1. "Plus I Really Dont Want To Put My Memory On A Divider."

     

    >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

     

    with amd slugs, using a divider does not degrade performance, and it can help majorly with clockage.

     

    try a lower x, jack up the HTT, adjust the LDT x so the LDT bus doesn't go wacko, use a divider and then run some tests......

     

    something like 11 x 268 (same overall speed), ram on the 9/10 divider (241 on the ram), or 166 (222 on the ram)....

     

    this is just an example, play with it and see what is...

     

    hey, i used to always want a 1/1 running with the ram, but after i got over my desire for 1/1 and started playing with dividers, bliss followed.......

     

    try a divider and see how the system reacts, runs some benches, compare...

     

    laterz...


  2. the stock heatsink and fan don't work all that well, and if your fan has failed, it is a recipe for chipset overheating...

     

    why haven't you replaced it??? if you can't afford to replace it, then replacing your MB will hurt even more....

     

    get a VC-re and slap it on the board, it works mucho better than the stock one, runs the chipset much cooler....did you do a simple search here at the forums? there are numerous/a whole lotta threads that refer to the chipset and aftermarket cooling

     

    laterz...


  3. "I tried moving the vid card down to the bottom 16x slot but Nvidia control panel showed it at 2x speed so I moved it back up."

     

    >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.

     

    sorry, read this, based my reply on that. no the second slot does not run @16x, 8x max, 2x if the jumper is not moved, but it doesn't make a difference, i doubt seriously if running @8x the bus can get saturated with the monster vid cards currently available.

     

    my apologies..

     

    laterz


  4. sparks???? and I assume you removed the screw, then inspected the area it feel with a magnifying glass?

     

    you fried something, short of sending the MB back to the Manu I doubt there is much you can do. i fried a trace on my beloved AsRock 939 Dual Sata because of a stupid experiment, luckly, I was able to rebuild the trace (it was a surface trace) and the board lives on.

     

    lots of smoke and it was smelly.

     

    anyway, get to inspecting the board where the screw to, then report back.

     

    laterz

     

     

    did it


  5. hmm, it is my recollection that you can not install the USB drivers from the CD, it comes up with a warning and advises SP2 for 2.0 runnings.

     

    go to device manager, USB stuffs, look for something like enhanced USB, right click and then do a driver update, if you have SP2 installed, it will update automatically..i have had a couple of installs that required that, but it was so long ago my memory is a bit hazy....XP without sp2...

     

    laterz


  6. "so I added a pci card with parallel ports"

     

    >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

     

    ah, I added a pci card with parallel ports for my DFI too....however, one must be very careful which PCI printer port card to get, some do funky things, like not settling in at the addresses you mentioned, some do not work with certain devices, it is hit and miss....generally, the ones that work with everything are a bit more expensive, actually, a lot more expensive...

     

    you may want to doublecheck the compatibility of your PCI port card....

     

    laterz


  7. put ram on a divider, them try again (see below). get a PSU that falls into the 'accepted' category.......................

     

    you need to read a whole heck of a lot, did you check out "the definative overclocking guide"???? or did you just skip it over, read sit, learn it, it gives specific instructions on how to test the limits of you ram and dividers, how to test the limit of your CPU and its memory controller....then how to combine the two into a nice blended overclock.....

     

    once you get a command of the above, things should go a little better for your clockage..

     

    laterz


  8. why not change to 10x280, run your ram on the 9/10 divider (252 on the ram), as far as your volts go, you have the option to increase/decrease the ram voltage, finding regular really good DDR is getting harder.............

     

    as far as the volts to your CPU, it is a lot for the 2.8gig, i am running an opty 165 @2.84 gig (9x316 summertime settings, 2x1gig gskill hz on 166 divider, 258 actual), actual volts to cpu are a smidgen over 1.3. i would prolly just play a bit with x's and dividers, LDT ratios (change to 3x if lowering x and raising HTT), run some stress tests to verify stability and then just enjoy the dual core sweetness.....

     

    running a 939 with the ram on a divider is not a bad thing, AMD does very well with dividers................

     

    laterz..


  9. once the ihs is removed, some heatsinks may hit the Ziff. if that is the case all one has to do is mark where it interfers, then grind off a small amount in the offending area for proper clearance. absolutely flat attachment with the now much smaller surface area is paramount.................

     

    as far as the coins go, it is an option, i found that when I removed the IHS on a cpu for the first time, and using and xp120 to coolio, I just carefully bent the clips to increase the tension, and all was good....

     

    as far as I am concerned, it isn't worth the effort for the few degrees one may get. there are exceptions, the factory can throw out an occassional slightly mismounted IHS, limited or too much thermal compound, and the occasional dualcore that has a large disparity between core temps...in these cases it may be beneficial.....and of course, the fanatic overclocker cooling with phase or some other exotic stuffs, every degree counts.........

     

    none of my IHS removals improved a OC, if that helps.....

     

    laterz


  10. unfortunately, short of right clicking the USB stuffs in device manager and updating, my experience is that when the USB 2.0 capability goes south, you can not bring it back.

     

    i found the only way to bring it back is to reinstall the OS (big bummer).

     

    had numerous problems in this area, massive research and tinkering could not bring it back to life, but a reinstall and all is good again. USB can suck sometimes.............

     

    laterz.


  11. remove the IHS, no warranty, and absolutely no RMA...

     

    you prolly nicked one of the mini caps on the processor, or your heatsink is not making good contact after lid removal.

     

    as far as your clockage goes, you may have have hit the max for the CPU...

     

    running with 4 gig of ram is definately working the memory bus hard, and it will definately limit your clockage, run with 2x1gig, whole different ball game.

     

    laterz.


  12. voltage readings are NOT going to tell you much, it is the amps that count with a DFI board, and forget a PSU tester. it is basically worthless except for volt checking. many a psu that won't work in a DFI work beautifully in other manu's boards................................just not in a DFI....

     

    Frankly, your PS is underpowered, for a DFI.

     

    Do a search here, big power supply thread, read, learn....BTW, even DFI recommends a 480 watt minimum for that board and at least two 12v lines w/18amps each (36 total, or more), or something close to that...

     

    Krap, okay, here is the link...

     

    http://www.diy-street.com/forum/showthread...ht=power+supply

     

    BTW, I prefer the OCZ units, just a preference, i have two 520w adjustable SLI, one in the main rig, the other on the test bench, they are strong enough to run even my x1950XTX and everything else.....

     

    laterz...


  13. lesson to be learned, if your cpu does not 'drop' into the Ziff without pressure from the top side, then you may have a problem. for a pin to have gotten bent like you described there had to be substantial pressure applied to the top of the cpu to get it to 'settle' in the ziff, in fact, one would have to work a bit just to get the cpu to settle reasonably flat..

     

    how do i know this???? after handling hundreds of CPU's and seeing what some of my customers have done to their rigs, nothing surprises me. add in my stupid mistakes over the years............

     

    your story is amazing, the pin recovery method you used is awesome. if you want to make the repair permanent you can have the pin resoldered if you find the right person:)....

     

    laterz..


  14. "dunno. but i think i solved the problem. aaahhhh the wonders of compressed air :-P my PWM is still kinda high but its not too bad"

     

    >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

     

    ?????? what exactly did you do....since you just installed the CPU, one would have to assume the parts where nice and clean from dust bunnies already....

     

    get a VC-re for the chipset, you will be rewarded with substantly lower temps....and it is quieter than the stock one, and lasts a lot longer....

     

    laterz.


  15. an opteron is a 939 chip, and it will run in just about any 939 board given the proper bios. 939 is 939, no matter what.

     

    it is not a CPU-MB incompatibility.....

     

    as far as your problem goes, it does sound like a MB problem....i have been up and running with my DFI for a long time now, popped in a half dozen different CPU's over the months, never a problem....every CPU change was seamless.....whether single core or dual core.....

     

    i would be looking to RMA the board...

     

    laterz..

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