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RHKCommander959

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About RHKCommander959

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  • Birthday 04/18/1988

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  1. probably just the CPU multiplier, maybe add CPU voltage. Good luck
  2. 2079 pts Here's the best I can do right now on my older work&fun PC. My gaming PC will fair better, but this is pretty darn good for old x58 . I might try to push higher but IDK if I could ever reach the 7700K. I'll try the play pc later on Specs: CPU: Intel Xeon x5670 @ 4.5 GHz 1.36V 22x205 , could go a bit higher it's nice, stable, and cool here. Was running 4.2 GHz @ 1.27V for a while for better efficiency... Memory: 3x4GB RAM 9-11-9-27 ~2050 MHz, might try to push higher but IDK how much bandwidth I can utilize. Motherboard : Asus P6X58D-E
  3. Looks like it has 4gb soldered onto the motherboard, with one single slot expandable up to 8gb, for a total of 12gb maximum combined. If you search the web I'm sure you'll find videos of people doing RAM installs on similar models. Most have access panels under the bottom, or under the keyboard which can be more involved.
  4. It's just the botnet configuring and reaching out, I wouldn't worry about it...
  5. Might help us to know what the BSOD or error in event viewer is too. Good luck
  6. I think two triples or the nova would be good on a system like that, even with low fan speed / pressure. If your D5 isn't a variable speed one, it will be noticably louder than the fans and will drive you nuts. You can get 12v dimmers / potentiometers and dial it down, I've seen a few rated up to 60W like this - https://www.amazon.com/Volt-Dimmer-LED-Halogen-Incandescent/dp/B01C4UBMW8 Parallel flow is almost always better, that or have a radiator between the CPU and GPU; every degree counts Wow those are neat but so much $$, I have an old water fountain I'm going to try and make a chiller with for getting back to sub ambient. I still have a peltier that would work on the lower wattage CPUs.
  7. I picked it back up for a bit after this thread, still good times after letting it sit for months! Slow mode sniping is real fun. You can hit multiple people with one shot if it lines up properly too
  8. Man those 011s are nice, I modded the heck out of one for a friend recently. I modified it to take three triple radiators internally, built a bracket to mount the GPU vertically, then water-cooled the GPU and motherboard. I always thought the novas and similar were neat too. Honestly both routes you can go would be good, what are you trying to cool? Either configuration is more than enough for a hot overclocked CPU and GPU though. Potential food for thought/theories: the other issue with remote mounting the nova is pump strength. The longer the runs the harder it is on the pump. With two blocks and three triple radiators my friend has plenty of flow at setting 4 on a variable D5 pump so you'd probably be fine as long as you weren't going a long distance and keeping it relatively close to the same PC height (head pressure even though it is theoretically a sealed system). What is your system specs? If it were me I would do either three triple radiators and/or nova over dual radiators. I like symmetry and think it would look cooler either way with the nova rad. Edit: added a picture of his pc. Sorry for potato quality, it's a screen grab of the RGB color effects.
  9. There is a setting I discovered playing it on xbox with my father, if you lightly hold the trigger you don't fully scope but still shoot the rifle, called shoulder aim. On PC you have to set that up manually I believe. That with a semi auto sniper rifle makes you nearly godlike up close if you have good aim. It plays well, I enjoyed it very much. There are some entertaining shots you can make too, I think the funniest I saw were slow motion testicle shots?
  10. I use to run 333+ fsb with opteron 165, on ultra d and cfx3200 for years without trouble. Frequency doesn't kill, voltage will. I swear we played around with 400 to 500 fsb too. But you gotta play with multis
  11. well that's a blast from the past! DEFAULT settings were 333 MHz frontside bus (166 MHz actual rate in bios), 12.5 clock multiplier, 2.075 GHz effective clock speed. 1.65V The motherboard and CPU should be able to easily handle 400mhz fsb (200 in bios), which would do better for the whole system. You will most likely need more voltage or less clock multiplier, if you don't change anything it'll be trying to do 2.5 GHz! Since you are doing ~2.2 GHz assuming stable, I would do 200x11. Then work up from there. I know I was pushing 2.8 and a couple to 3 maybe. The fastest stock Barton was 2.33 GHz I think... The socket A cpus like to smoke out though if you get too crazy, as I did with my first Palomino Athlon XP back in the day. THERMAL THROTTLING IS NOT A THING ON SOCKET A. I also scored my first watercooling and peltier cooler from a guy on craigslist because he smoked his thoroughbred running the peltier backwards Most people would cut and bridge the Gold Fingers using a pencil and exacto knife for tuning the CPU, doing this you can unlock the multiplier if it isn't already. A small strand of copper wire from a multi-stranded cable, or conductive pen tend to be more reliable. Scotch tape or clear nail polish can help protect any of said materials too, although the pencil lead can be screwed up just from looking at it wrong. You can also use copper wire inserted into the socket or tied around the cpu pins to achieve effects. Helps a lot with locked motherboards! edit: WOW ocinside.de still ahs the guides up! https://www.ocinside.de/workshop_en/tbred_painting/ https://www.ocinside.de/workshop_en/amd_pinmod_howto/ https://www.ocinside.de/workshop_en/amd_pinmod/
  12. Yeah here's hoping you had a good vacation and the computer is going good now...
  13. could always snag something like i7 4770k for more power, getting load temps lower helps too when you are near the edge.
  14. Happy to help! I know how that goes, I hope you have a good trip - let me know if you need further help!
  15. glad to hear it's getting there, memory issues could be why it took days instead of several minutes. M.2 is sweet! The ram should work just fine with SPD settings, unless there is a defect. Sadly most motherboards don't have memtest but you could make a bootable USB and test it. There are some Linux based bootable tools you can use too. I would keep the windows usage to a minimum until you sort that, or you'll corrupt it sooner or later. https://www.memtest86.com/
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