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Everything posted by TheSaw

  1. Well I noticed the fan isn't broken, because it spins up for a few seconds at start, then completely stops. I e-mail Antec's customer support, with two detailed questions, but they only replied with instructions on how to replace the product via Antec. I bet they didn't even read the question. Anyways... going or sendind it to Rotterdam would be 10 times more expensive then just buying a new one, so I'm kinda thinking about replacing the fan... but if this one spins, I'm not sure how is it broken.
  2. Well it's still in warranty, but the shop is pretty far away... So I might just wait a bit more and see what happens.
  3. Hy, as the title says, my Earthwatts PSU fan isn't spinning. Tbh i don't remember if it used to stop and restart again, as some of the search results said, but it's not spinning at all now. Is there a way to check if it turns on automatically when the temperature is higher?
  4. It has but it doesn't have the resolution i want. I tried with this tool, it has really advanced features, but when i tried to set the desired resolution, it got even worse. I found an option on the TV to stretch the image horizontally, this way it fills it entirely, and the noises are gone too, so i will leave it as it is. Thx for the help guys
  5. Hy, i have an Acer Aspire 5100 laptop with some onboard ATI Radeon Xpress Series gfx "card". As you may already guessed, I also have a Sony Bravia 40", and I want to connect it to this laptop via a VGA cable (obsolete, but it's all i can do atm). I had no problems at all doing this, everything worked fine, but the TV has a resolution of 1366 x 768 (at least that's what the specs say). Obviously the Catalyst Control Center doesn't show this option, nor allows me to force it, and the Windows properties isn't more usefull either. I googled all over about this, and the only thing i found that might work, was the registry hack for forcing a resolution, but since i can't try it out until tomorrow, i'd rather search for more orthodox methods to do it. The 100 pixels difference in the screen width doesn't bother me, i could live with that, but i noticed some horizontal lines (likes 5-6 of them) on the TV screen, flickering, and I thought the wrong resolution might cause this. So, I'm asking you to help me force the resolution on the external Tv somehow. Here are the TV specs if they are of any use: Sony Bravia 40" My CCC shows way higher resolutions, I really doubt this screen can go that far (2048x1536), but it doesn't show the one i need. Thx for any help.
  6. Wow, that's a lot of wind Well tbh idk exactly, it's some Antec NSKxxx the cheaper ones It has those ventilation holes on the side and front, and a 120 rear fan.
  7. Would a front case fan help? (i have a rear one already)
  8. Hmm, thx for the reply. The temps are not load temperatures, sry my bad. Here it is while running Super PI:
  9. Hey, I don't wanna piss anyone off with some old and repetitive questions, I just wanna ask a few questions about my system. First of all, I have an intel E8200 with stock cooling, some antec case, a-Data RAM's (800 MHz). Below you can see my settings, I've been running it for almost a year now, 100% stable. I've been reading some articles tho, where some people say it's too much, or it's too hot, and it might get damaged over time. I'm not an OC freak, and i don't need this speed, so I could set it lower, but I thought it would be better to use it on 1:1 FSB:DRAM ratio, and 400 Mhz Dram frequency, because it looks more "stable". So should i let it run as it is? My second question isn't about OC, but i didn't wanted to open a new thread, in case someone in here knows something about it: As you can see one of the cores has higher temperature than the other. I am using WinXP SP3, and the rumors say XP isn't optimized for dual cores, so the two cores won't be used in the same ammount. Is there some patch to fix this, or is it normal like this? Thx.
  10. Well i got the 2253BW, with a CMO panel, made in Romania. I bought it from Saturn (germany) for 220 euros. I was waiting for something really bad for a CMO panel, but it rly disappointed me, in the good way, because i am satisfied with how it looks. Colors are okay, after a few minutes of amateur screen calibration, the colors were really good, the screen is bright even without the magicbright and magictune stuff, i didn't activate those. Backlight bleeding is noticeable, but only on black background, on top and a bit on the bottom of the screen over like half a cm width, so it's really no trouble at all, only if you want a perfect monitor, which doesn't exist. The controls on the monitor are a bit hard to reach, because they are hidden under it, but u don't have to use them that much. No ghosting or w/e in games/movies, performs really good. The thing that i don't like on it, is the stand, which isn't adjustable, and it's a bit short. Here are some pics with it:
  11. As the title says, I wanna buy a 22" lcd monitor, and i don't wanna regret my decision later, so i need your opinions. The monitor will be used mostly for gaming / movies (no graphic stuff; DVI required). I've read lots of reviews and comments, and i narrowed my selection down to LG or Samsung, more likely Samsung. So, to make this simple and less boring, i have to choose between the following 3 monitors: 2232 / 2243 / 2253. If you have other monitors that you would recommend, bring it on, but only with good reasoning or personal experience Thx a lot, and sorry for another boring topic (i know, i've read them all) LE: i wanna order it today, so i need to decide asap
  12. Sorry for hijacking your thread, but i have a related question I bet everyone heard about the Samsung 226bw's 3 panel versions, the A, C and S, where A and C were some crappy chinese-made panels, and the S was the good version. I am wondering if Samsung did this to other models too, particularly the 2232BW. I was thinking about buying that model, is it okay?
  13. Yeah same fingers here Well it's not really about the shape, cuz i saw it, and i can imagine the feel, but i was worried that my long fingers would make it uncomfortable to hold. Anyways, thx for the replies, i will order this mouse
  14. Well thx for replying, as i said, im only interested in the way of holding it. Im used to claw holding, but since mx518 is designed for palm, i don't know if it will fit in my hands...
  15. So i read some reviews / opinions about a few gaming mice, and i decided to go with the Logitech mx518, not because of it's performance, but because of it's shape, i thought that it would be better then some tiny razer mouse for my big hands. The reason im posting here now is beacause i read a few user comments, which state the opposite of my theory, that the mx518 is better for little-handed users, or your fingers won't fit on the mouse. Since it all comes down to confort and to the way u hold the mouse, i don't really want to buy it and find out i am not confy with it. So please, if you have the same mouse, or you used it somewhere, tell me your opinions. PS. I can't test it at store, and my fingers are long, not fat
  16. TheSaw

    PC rebooting

    Well type "eventvwr" in the run dialog, and check for system events at the time the crash occured, you will find the STOP code. Google it, and you might find some answers
  17. TheSaw

    PC rebooting

    Ok, well i checked the dumprep and found a few STOP codes, and after looking them up on google, i found some similar problems, and a few possible solutions. It seems the problem was caused by my Realtek HD audio driver, it's buggy or smth. So i installed some other drivers, and the problem is fixed. For now. I'll come back if it isn't So for those who will encounter some similar problems, check the STOP code after the crash, and if it's 0x000008e, and u have this Realtek HD audio, u know what to do thx anyways.
  18. TheSaw

    PC rebooting

    Thx for the reply. Well i turned off the Dual Core Center, switched the RivaTuner to AtiTools to control my fan, turned off all unnecessary applications at stratup, but i can't test it with another PSU... I did some online calculations and it said that 430Ws are more than enough for this pc, and so did other ppl who i asked. So is there a specific way to find out if this really is the problem?
  19. Well i know it's not really an OS related problem, but i didn't find any subforum for this one so here it goes: I recently bought a new pc, set it up, installed drivers, etc... everything worked farely ok, till now. I was playing dota (Warcraft 3), not so resource eating game, when my pc just rebooted, suddenly, no error, no nothing. It was weird, but it wasn't the only time. It happened 3-4 more times today, so it gets really annoying. The interesting thing is it only happened during the game, it works fine outside. I thought about overheating, so i monitored my temperatures. The cpu rarely reached 40
  20. Well i will decide on this... either the antec case with included psu or buy a cheap case, mount a fan, and a semi-decent psu ^^ .. depending on the budget. Some ppl say i should wait till march or smth cuz prices will drop, but i'm not so sure about this :/ Well anyways, thx for your help, i will bump this thread after i buy it.... if i don't forget (not that everyone is so interested, but it might help some ppl who google for the same info)
  21. The PSU in the Antec NSK6580 case:
  22. Ok, so here is the Fortron: Power Supply ATX 500W, P IV, TUV, Fortron, Blue Storm II 500, PFC Activ, 120mm Fan Temp. Auto Control, S-ATA - PCI-E connectors $140 Well i believe it is good, but i won't pay 140$'s for a PSU Ok, so the cheaper ones: Power Supply ATX 500W, PIV, Premier, LC-8500-BTX, 20/24 pin Power Supply ATX 500W, P IV, Delux, 20pin, Dual-Fan, S-ATA Power Supply ATX 500W, PIV, Premier, LC-8500-BTX, 20/24 pin, S-ATA Connector, PCI Express Connector The medium-price range ones: Power Supply ATX 450W, P IV, TUV, Recom, Power Engine 450, PFC Pasiv, 120mm Fan Temp. Auto Control, S-ATA - PCI-E connectors, SLI Ready Power Supply ATX 430W, P IV, TUV, Sirtec, HPC-430-P12S, PFC Pasiv, 120mm Fan Temp. Auto Control, S-ATA - PCI-E connectors Power Supply ATX 460W, P IV, TUV, Sirtec, HPC-460-P12S, PFC Pasiv, 120mm Fan Temp. Auto Control, S-ATA - PCI-E connectors If i get one of these, and a cheap case, would it be a problem? The case has a 80mm fan, and i could add another one... So the choices are kinda limited. :| [Edit] There is this case Case Antec NSK6580, ATX, 430W, PFC Activ, 5 25X4, balck, front USB, 120mm cooling fan but it's kinda expensive, but if i will have problems with a no-name psu, then i rather buy this.
  23. I found some reviews about these 45nm cpu's, the cheapest e8200. They perform better then the 6x series, and for my surprise, the price is lower, so i guess it is ok if i replace the e6750 with an e8200, right? The price difference is 20$ in favor of the e8200. I'm not sure if the mobo P35-DS3L supports this type of cpu... does it? [Edit] Well i found out it does, so it's pretty obvious i should go for the e8200, right?
  24. Oh big thx for sacrificing time to browse a bird-language site It's just the money thing, when i'm about to spend some, i always make sure i buy smth good, so i won't regret later, so i ask pros Ok, well the budget stretch is not out of the question, but only if it makes a differnce. So if i get the cheaper rams and maybe the 256 mb gfc card, i'll decide on that. So what about the case and psu? They all have the same specs, but prices differ :/ (I'm not talking about the expensive and really good ones) Should i just choose a normal case with fan spaces, and a 500W PSU? Which brands are worth buying, cuz the Fortrons are freakin` expensive.
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