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radodrill

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Everything posted by radodrill

  1. If you're just using the S/P-DIF, then why not just use the integrated sound card; the dedicated sound cards only really make a difference when using the analog speakers.
  2. QFT I wouldn't base my PSU decision on what the online PSU calculators say; I go more on preference based on the desired system specs. Also, keep in mind that not all PSUs with the same rating are created equal; a lot of cheap PSUs are rated for peak power (and sometimes can't even provide that at peak) while most quality PSUs are rated for continuous power.
  3. Petra's Tech does ship anywhere in the world; non-US orders are handled via email since their online checkout system doesn't easily handle the international shipping charges. In some cases it's actually less expensive to order from a US retailer and pay shipping than to buy is from a local seller. The only "kits" (if you will) that I'd recommend are those packaged together by manufacturers of quality components or "kits" consisting of quality components that are bundled together by resellers such as Petra's Tech. Just about all other kits (i.e. Koolance, Thermaltake, Zalman) I wouldn't even consider.
  4. All the details you've provided tend to indicate that you're running over the thermal capabilities of the cooling loop. I know for a fact that the MCR-220 radiator (that comes with the H2O-220 Apex Ultra kit) can handle a quad; but that 8800GTS is probably pushing it over the edge. Adding additional and/or higher CFM fans may help out, but your best bet would probably be to replace the radiator with a 360mm rad. And using more additives in the water will actually decrease it's heat capacity (i.e. decrease performance). I actually run pure Distilled water with a few drops of Biocide. Edit: Forgot to ask, what program are you using to monitor the temps?
  5. One of those would be sweet to replace the 7900GT that's running in my bro's rig; my rig is already running a pair of 8800GTXs so that'd be a down grade for my main rig.
  6. Yeah with most of the regulars making the transition you'd expect it to be the same between us; now we just have a bigger group of people to associate with
  7. Yeah, Petra's Tech certainly has good deals on most everything they sell, and their "kits" are very good bargains with high quality components. I've dealt with the guys at Petra's Tech and they're very helpful and offer excellent customer service.
  8. I don't bite; and it's these other guys who contact me folks from the Street who contact me
  9. Based on Swiftech's website I'm assuming you have the Apogee GT CPU block, LIANG D5/Swiftech MCP-655 pump, and Swiftech MCR-220 radiator. And according to your sig you also have a D-Tek Fuzion GPU block. Could you please let us know what the loop order is? The fact that the temps quickly drop from 60C back down to 40C indicates that the CPU block is making good contact to the CPU. If it's a rather gradual climb to the 60C, then I'd say you're probably around the limit of what your radiator/fan combination can handle; you might be OK with higher speed fans, but for CPU +GPU loops (particularly when running hotter chips such as the Q6600 and G80) I generally recommend using a 360mm radiator (240mm at the very least).
  10. Better check out this thread: DIY-Street Merges With OverclockersClub.com and register there.
  11. The MCR220 is a very good radiator and is optimized for use with low-flow fans; in fact, with low speed fans the Swiftech Quietpower radiators actually perform better than the Hardware Labs Black Ice Stealth series.
  12. Haven't had the time to really get her flying; but I don't think she'll go much over 45C at full load (even with a major OC)
  13. The RAD-box mounts through the existing fan mount on the back of the case; it basically acts as a spacer between the case and the radiator to allow good airflow through the rad, if you have some spare case fans, the same thing can be achieved using gutted fan housings. While the radiator may then partially hang over part of the PCI slot area, it should not interfere with making the connections due to the aforementioned gap between the back of the case and the radiator. There should not be a major difference between the water temps with the system off vs the system running full load (generally only a few degrees C), which would not really put any thermal stress on the material or make it weaker. I'd say issues are much more dependent on thickness and type of plastic used as well as the way it's put together. There are several types of plastic that a lot of people will just call acrylic or Plexiglas without really knowing the difference. 2 of the most common plastics are Lexan and Polycarbonate (acrylic); for a certain thickness the Polycarbonate is stiffer, more transparent, but also somewhat more brittle than the Lexan. Also, cast vs extruded acrylic can also make a difference in the material properties. Generally the lower the material cost, the more brittle it gets; and as the thickness increases, the price goes way up. Vendors (particularly those who are trying to keep the cost of goods low; e.g. Thermaltake) will often opt for the less expensive materials that are then thinner and more brittle, which leads to such problems. Other things that can often lead to problems are manufacturing errors such as having a center baffle in a ref a bit too wide requiring excessive clamping of the side panel to glue it in place, this would pre-stress the side panels making them prime candidates for failure.
  14. Not including feet: 600mm High x 300mm wide x 550mm Deep
  15. It was a bit of a pain soldering it all together, particularly the fact that the MIC502 chips were only available in SMD and I really needed DIP so I has to solder on wire leads to make it work For that I was actually using a cheap radioshack 15/30W soldering iron. I also have a resistance soldering iron for when i need to solder leads to the rails of my model railroad. That was actually just a stock-speed run on the Q6600; I haven't really had the time to overclock it yet (busy working on my masters degree), but I should get to clocking her up this summer. I don't have a wolfdale so I really would not be able to compare them
  16. there certainly were a few residents of Germany, but I don't think they were very active in a while so I'm not sure if/when they'll come over.
  17. The Supreme should be a good block. Based on looking at pics of the P182, it's not very well suited for an internal radiator; might be able to squeeze in a 120mm radiator, but that certainly wouldn't be enough for the cooling. What you might want to consider is hanging a 240mm or 360mm from the back of the case with a Swiftech RAD-box; the case itself already has pass-through grommets for the tubing so this wouldn't be very hard to do. One more note I forgot to mention earlier, you can also use 7/16" tubing over 1/2" barbs to give a better seal; I also don't use hose clamps, zip-ties are more than sufficient. What brand were they? I had a Swiftech micro-RES for a while and never had any issues with it; in fact, it's still in service to this day.
  18. For all those interested, I just posted the log to my acrylic case in the modding section (also linked in my sig)
  19. Stock Speed Benchmarks Here are some stock speed benchmarks on this system; not the 8800 GTXs have already been flashed the speeds of BFG's overclocked/watercooled card that's using the exact same card and waterblock I am. 24hr Prime95 stable (click for full-size) 3DMark 2001 SE 3DMark 2003 3DMark 2005 3DMark 2006 Aquamark 3
  20. Update (22-Oct-2007): Watercooling & Up-n-Running First off; slight mod to the PSU; since the stock fan was very loud I replaced it with a 140mm Yate Loon There were some clearance issues with the GFX cards and the rear X-Flow Radiator So the RAD is being replaced with a standard (non X-Flow) radiator The two side by side Clearance issue resolved A few shots of the case Installed the tubing for the CPU, NB, and SB Adding the GFX cards And the rest of the tubing Filled the loop; currently bleeding/leak-testing (removed the drive bays to make it easier to see the tubing during this phase) Booting it up for the first time after installing it into the case A gallery of the case with different lighting schemes Now it's just a matter of finishing up the baseboard for it. I'll also post some stock-speed benchmarks shortly and also some overclocking results later on. Sponsors:
  21. Update (14-Oct-2007): Wiresleeving & Watercooling Update time again Installed the DVD drive Re-sleeved the necessary PSU cabling in UV-blue Also custom wired one cable for power to the floppy headers on the MB, the fans, lighting, and the pump. Pulled the heatsinks off of the PWMIC, NB, and SB Installed the mounting hardware for the waterblocks and re-installed the PWMIC block with AS5 Installed the waterblocks Pulled the heatsinks off of the 8800GTXs Applied the thermal pads and AS5 (if you're not confident that you won't over apply the thermal paste then you should use the ceramique that's included with the block) Put on the waterblocks Sponsors:
  22. Update (08-Oct-2007): CCFLs, Watercooling, Hardware Got the rest of the Hardware 2nd BFG 8800 GTX OC 500Gb SATA2 HDD Q6600 G0 CPU Lite-ON SATA DVD-RW Checked the fit of the SB waterblock Since there wasn't much clearance for the GFX cards I thought it'd be better to rotate the block by 90deg but to get the mounting holes to line up I then had to mount the top upside-down as well Also did a slight mod to the DVD drive to provide me with a rear connector for the elect button and status LED Inside the DVD drive soldered leads onto the connector connector glued into place on the circuit board Wiring connected to the circuit board circuit board back in it's place And a view of the back of the drive Put all the hardware together on a box (poor man's tech station) to get all the software installed Sponsors:
  23. Update (03-Oct-2007): Hardware Part1 Today I received the hardware I ordered from Newegg OCZ Reaper 2x1Gb PC2-9200 Creative X-Fi XtremeGamer BFG 8800 GTX OC (2nd coming tomorrow from ZipZoomFly) Silverstone ST1000 iKW PSU DFI LanParty UT NF680i SLI LT T2R/G Motherboard Sponsors:
  24. Update (30-Sept-2007): CCFL Lighting Started installing the CCFL Lighting What will become mounting plates for the CCFL inverters Drilled Screwholes Rounded the ends Polished them up Drilled & tapped screwholes in the MB Panel Secured the inverters Mounted the 4 CCFLs on the right side Secured the right-hand panel Lighting on; dim ambient lighting An assortment of shots in the dark I'm planning on having the case and hardware wrapped up by the end of the upcoming weekend; finishing up the baseboard may take a little longer though. Sponsors:
  25. Update (16-Sept-2007): Watercooling Mounted and sleeved the fans for the front RAD Installed some of the tubing Re-installed the drive bays; decided to go with frosted sides on the drive bays Shot from the front to better show the run of tubing Also tidied up the cabling for the front panel switches 2 shots to give an idea how some of the lighting will look Sponsors: Update (23-Sept-2007): Fan installation After testing the PWM fan controller with the Blackfire fans I realized that at low speeds the fans were "growling." By means of trial & error I discovered that if I replace the 0.1uF timing capacitor with a 100pF capacitor (raising the PWM frequency from 30Hz to 30KHz) the symptoms are resolved. Here's the Baseboard after a few more coats of paint, sanding, and steel wool treatment. Finished installing the rest of the fans Here are some gallery shots of the case; not that I've also installed a fill-port reservoir Sponsors:
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