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Posts posted by radodrill

  1. I'm using the OCC skin.


    Even so it's a stark difference from the DIY-skin, it's IMO a lot better than the IP board ones.


    For me personally the thing that takes the most getting used to is the usage of IP board rather than the vBulletin that DIY used (and the fact that some of the best smileys aren't here).

  2. who uses vista anyway? look below my avatar, it'll tell u something about me :)


    A lot of us already know that :P


    From the playing with Shista that I've done so far I still hate it overall; only 1 feature I kinda like is the window preview when you hover with the mouse over an inactive window on the taskbar, but I'm sure that can be integrated into XP by means of some sort of power-toy.

  3. A 32-bit OS can only allocate a total of 4Gb of memory; this includes CPU cache, system RAM, and VGA RAM. In other words, the most system RAM it will allocate is: ~4Gb (2^32 b) - CPU cache - VGA RAM


    As an example, I'm running 2 8800 GTXs with 768Mb RAM each, and a Q6600 with 2x4Mb L2 Cache and 2x128Kb L1 Cache


    The max memory a 32-bit OS will address is 2^32 b = 4294.967 Mb

    The total CPU memory is 2x 4 Mb + 2x 128 Kb = 8.256 Mb

    The total VGA RAM is 2x 768 Mb = 1536 Mb

    So the max system RAM that can be allocated is: 4294.967 Mb - 8.256 Mb - 1536 Mb = 2750.711 Mb =2.751 Gb


    When I have 4Gb of RAM installed, Windows XP Pro (32-bit) will show that there is 2.75Gb present, which corresponds to the above calculation.

  4. Side note: I had a hard time getting an ip when connecting my rig directly so I could post this. Not sure what the deal is there.

    As I understand this, you are having the same issues with a PC connected directly to the modem. If this is the case, then it's most probably a bad modem; if you are leasing the modem from comcast, they should replace it for you.

  5. Oftentimes refurbs are a result of a corporation ordering more of a product than they needed and sending the remainder back; the manufacturer can't sell the returned merchandise as new so they'll test everything out and sell it as a refurb. The other main contributor towards products sold as refurbs is when a corporation is upgrading hardware they may send in the older stuff for a discount, so the manufacturer will check out and sell it as a refurb to make some profit off of it. In my opinion only a very small percentage of refurbs are defective products that were repaired.


    For a lot of things refurbed works just as well as the new; but often does not have as extensive a warranty and may not always be much less expensive than the same product costs brand new.

  6. I personally would not get the 8800 ULTRA Black Pearl; instead I'd recommend buying the video card itself and buying a full-cover block separately (from DangerDen or EK-waterblocks) and installing it yourself. The reason why I say this is because the blocks eVga uses for their black pearl series have aluminum tops and and can result in corrosion due to having copper/brass and aluminum components in the same loop. Also, buying the block and card separately is most likely less expensive than getting a card with the block factory installed.


    When cooling both the CPU and a high end GPU in the same loop, I'd suggest getting a 360mm radiator over the 240mm.


    You might be better off using 7/16" tubing over 1/2" barbs as this offers a better seal and allows tighter bends in the tubing without any appreciable hit on flowrates. And you'll probably end up needing more than 2m of tubing; just to be on the safe side you'd be best off getting 3m


    I don't like that pump/res combo, I much rather have the pump and res/T-line separate. In terms of pumps I really like the LIANG D5 (aka Swiftech MCP655) or the LIANG DDC with custom top (particularly the Petra's Tech top). I often don't use a reservoir but rather go with a T-line; they are more compact.


    The D-Tek Fuzion is the best CPU block currently on the market ;)

  7. Seems like the Swiftech H2-220 Apex Ultra is a great deal, only thing it lacks is the D-tek Fuzion CPU waterblock. Might just pick up the H2-220, but i've got some time before I put this together so I'll wait and hunt for some deals.


    One thing though, I want the thing to be UV green what kind of coolant do you suggest that would give that effect. I've seen this FeserOne stuff all over the place, but whats your take on it?

    You might also want to look at Petra's Tech Shop; they configure similar kits that do have the D-Tek Fuzion CPU block.


    I personally am not a fan of using dyes anymore since it always tends to stain the tubing and sometimes settles out and can in some situations clog the nozzles in the blocks. I would recommend getting colored UV reactive tubing instead; I know that Primochill and Feser-One make it.

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