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radodrill

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Everything posted by radodrill

  1. Definitely skip the Thermaltake; the performance and quality aren't good at all. Petra's Tech is probably the best place to get your stuff. I just don't understand why you'd want colored tubing and dye'd water; I've moved away from using dies since they tend to separate out and stain the crap out of the tubing/blocks. Pump: Laing D5 Vario $79.95 CPU Block: D-Tek Fuzion $64.99 Radiator: Black Ice Pro II $33.99 Fill-port: DangerDen Brass Fillport $11.95 T-fitting: 1/2" OD T $1.99 Tubing: Feser 1/2" ID UV Acid Green tubing $2.75/ft x 10ft = $27.50 Biocide: Petra's Tech PT Nuke $2.50 Total price: $222.87 add a few fans an possibly a radbox (for hanging the rad from the back of the case when only 1 fan hole exists) and you're all set to go
  2. Paint should have no bearing on it even if it conducts electricity. Many cases are conductive and for this reason any screw for hardware are either insulated or (more commonly) connected to ground. Grounding issues occur when a circuit board's contact touch the grounded case; this can be due to forgetting to use the motherboard standoffs, placing a standoff where there is no mounting hole on the motherboard, etc.
  3. From all I've gathered in this thread, it's very likely a dead PSU Having the PSU turn on for a fraction of a second then kicking back off is pretty typical of a dead/dying PSU; but can in some instances be due to grounding issues. As has been stated earlier, the fact that the PSU can power some HDDs only means that it's not completely dead but does not mean that it can supply the power it's rated for and/or the power the system needs. From your earlier comments, I gather that the tests outside the case were limited to powering a few HDDs. What really should be done instead is to pull the whole system (motherboard, graphics card HDD, etc) out of the case and set it up on a non-conductive surface (e.g. cardboard box); if it still doesn't work it's the PSU, but if it does then there's likely a grounding issue (often a motherboard standoff making contact to a solder point on the motherboard).
  4. Less money for the Gasoline companies
  5. I like all the "Features" in the DFI BIOS
  6. Agreed, the Petra's Tech kits are a good choice for H2O. [Off topic]here's a good read about the newb vs noob/n00b issue[/Off topic]
  7. There are 2 main reasons why I would not consider a Reserator; 1) by design thy would not be very effective in extracting the heat from the water and 2) it is made from aluminum and when combined with the copper in the bases of the blocks is just asking for corrosion issues. When selecting components for a watercooling loop, be sure to check that the only metals they contain are copper and brass as they are compatible without resulting in corrosion.
  8. I'm actually running 6 of the A.C.Ryan Blackfire 4 Kameleons in my main rig. BTW, the UVBlue is not the same as the Kameleon; the difference is the UVBlue has translucent blue (UV-Reactive) parts, while the Kameleon is a translucent dark gray under normal light but a bluish glow under UV light. They're not the quietest fans I've seen, but if you slow them down on a fan controller they're actually pretty good.
  9. Watercooling is certainly not dead; I see it growing in popularity among those who build/mod their own rigs. However, I do not think it'll be adopted by mainstream PC manufacturers anytime soon; particularly since most people buy a PC, set it up, and forget about it and never bother to clean out dust etc and as such would not check the H2O level. I posted a thread here outlining various important aspects about watercooling and block/component selection
  10. You might want to check out the link I posted earlier; a better card for less (after rebate)
  11. I wouldn't say that 550W is too much power; especially if you want room for future upgrades. However, I am not a fan of Rosewill power supplies; you might want to consider the OCZ StealthXStream 600W, which after rebate is $64.99. Also, in terms of the video card you might want to consider the HIS Radeon HD2600 Pro 512Mb for $44.99 after rebate.
  12. Not the case. This practice/notion is a result of the early DIY H2O days when submersible garden pumps were used and placed in a small container of water acting as a reservoir, in such a situation the pump was in the res emitting heat to the surrounding water and so it was preferable to have the rad right before the block(s). Using current equipment this isn't anything to really be concerned about. Most newer pumps (i.e. D5 or DDC) have a very minimal heat transfer to the water. Further, a standalone reservoir has no heat sources in it and as such would not add heat to the water; especially since the temp of the water exiting the radiator cannot be lower than the ambient air temp and the water in a reservoir will tend to reach the ambient temp as well.
  13. There are no issues with mounting the radiator against the acrylic (it will not melt as the water/radiator temp isn't much over ambient). if you're considering to potentially H2O cool the GPU in the future, then you might as well invest in a 360mm radiator as the Q6600 puts out a lot of heat and the 240mm would probably not handle both a GPU and the Q6600.
  14. If the baristas wish to wear bikinis that's their prerogative; as long as they're not forced to do so by the owners and/or are not totally in the nude.
  15. @praz: sorry, I was not aware of the compatibility issues with those specific ATI cards; thanks for providing more info to clarify
  16. I've experienced the exact opposite; I still have a Dell Laptop that's ~7yrs old that still runs strong, while I just had a 2 yr old ASUS die on me.
  17. Have you tried clearing the CMOS? (jumper setting on the motherboard)
  18. Sweet! Just remember to stick with quality components.
  19. Added; should have remembered them, Travis keeps talking about them
  20. USB connections on cable/DSL modems are typically only capable of a max of 10Mbps; so for anything faster you'll need to use the CAT-5 with which most modems are capable of up to 100 Mbps.
  21. I can't see a darn thing; Clearer/larger images would be a big plus
  22. Feel free to post further questions here on the forum or PM me if you need help.
  23. If I knew the answer to the Quadro part I would probably have done it to my 8800GTXs by now.
  24. The 9800 GX2 has an integrated SLI bridge/controller and is "seen" by the system as a single video card; the SLI option in the nVidia control panel simply enables SLI between the 2 "cards", so with it disabled you should be able to run multiple monitors.
  25. While heater core rads often do offer better performance than those made for PCs; that one you linked would still be small, as with a shroud you'd be limited by a max of 2 fans but if you got one for the CPU and another for the GPUs you should be ok.
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