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Posts posted by radodrill

  1. im trying to find a block for a gtx 260 65nm and also im wondering if my current cpu block is any good.


    The mounting would likely be a problem; you could use a core only GPU block as well as RAM-sinks



    ok I've got a question.I'm gonna be using distilled water in my loop what a good brand name additive for prevention corrosion.Also all my parts are cooper,I don't know if that matters or not.


    I would appreciate the help


    If it's all copper and brass then you're fine; corrosion is primarily an issue when you have aluminum in the loop.

    I just use a few drops of Biocide (PT Nuke) to to prevent algae and/or microbial growth; some people also use some sterling silver as a Biocide.

  2. Is Asetek a decent brand? In particular I am looking at this kit from SVC.


    I am starting to doubt my ability to pull this off without a kit first time through, but if I can figure out the order in which everything is supposed to be plumbed I think I can pull it off without one. Also I was thinking that maybe a kit would be best for my first time water cooling because of simplicity. Thanks in advance.


    I'm not too fond of Asetek; and to be honest, I don't really like kits and IMHO the only "kits" worth buying are the bundles from Petra's Tech or DangerDen. The most important thing in the loop order is that te res/T-line is right before the pump inlet to keep the pump flooded while filling/bleeding. Often the radiator is placed right before the CPU block as this ensures the best CPU temps.



    As for chip sinks for the video card I liked the look of these ones from Petra's. Anybody use these yet and if so do they work well enough?


    The iandh RAMsinks are supposed to be quite good and should be very sufficient for cooling the RAM.

  3. I want to get a chipset cooler and was wondering if any old block would work (such as a DangerDen maze 4?) or would I need to find a particular type for my ASUS P5K?


    different chipsets use different placement of the retention holes (and sometimes MB manufactures use hole placements that differ from the reference design) so you have to make sure that the chipset block is either universal or includes the correct hold-down plate for your chipset. The differences in different models of the Maze4 block are only in the top (the tops can also be purchased separately) so just chose the model that best describes the chipset used my your board.


    As for a GPU block I can't seem to tell if the 9800GT blocks will fit my GTX+ :blink: .I want a full cover block, but will I have to find a particular one to fit my card?


    DD and EK do not seem to make full-cover blocks for the 9800GT; but both make blocks for the 9800GTX and 9800GX2

  4. Hey, what about Cooler Master for a brand? I think they're pretty decent brand in a lot of things, not to sure when it comes to water cooling though.


    Also, I'm surprised I don't see newegg on the website list. Anything particular about them?




    I'd avoid Coolermaster WC components.


    I guess I didn't add Newegg to the list because about the only decent quality WC they sell are packaged kits made by Swiftech; so not nearly the same selection or the ability to cherry-pick components as with other stores catering to watercoolers.



    thanks i appreciate the help on the quality component, is there any way to water cool ram?


    For the most part watercooling the RAM does not offer any tangible performance gains and merely adds restriction to the loop. Also, a lot of the RAM blocks that are on the market are aluminum, which is just one more reason to avoid tham as that's just asking for galvanic corrosion.

  5. Sounds like the Thermaltake Kandalf is great after if you replace the pump with a different one, replace the cpu block, replace the hoses to something bigger than 1/4", of course there radiators are crap also so may as well replace it also, hmm I wonder what is the reason to buy it if I have to replace everything?

    I guess some people like the case itself because it's "designed" for watercooling; but I do not think it's cost effective to buy it just to turn around and replace their crappy WC with quality gear. Perhaps TT should offer the case without their WC stuff pre-installed

  6. The plastic top of the cpu cooler block was bent and it cracked. I had to manufacture

    an aluminium top.


    I would not use aluminum for any component in my cooling loop. When Copper/Brass and Aluminum components are used in the same loop, it leads to galvanic corrosion; even the use of corrosion inhibitors will not prevent this, it merely slows down the process.

  7. Any ideas for a stand alone setup for 2 8800 GTX in Sli in my sig rig ?



    Currently Petra's Tech has the D4 pump on sale for $29.95


    I'm not sure if you'd want to go full-cover on the GPUs or not; for core only I'd suggest the Swiftech MCW-60 with RAMsinks (Swiftech makes a pack with all the sinks for the 8800GTX). I personally like the look of the full-cover blocks (they also allow cleaner tube routing) and either the EK blocks or the DangerDen blocks would be a good choice; I hear that the EK block has a slight performance advantage over the DD block. FWIW, I'm currently running a pair of DD 8800GTX blocks and they do an excellent job of cooling the cards (idle temps dropped 20C).


    You should probably be fine with a 240mm radiator; but if you have the room, I personally would probably step up to a 360mm rad.

  8. What are some of the solution you guys have for water cooling leaks? I have seen non-conductive coolants, are there others? Leaks happen I'm looking for ways to minimize damage.


    "Non-conductive" coolants aren't all they're cracked up to be; if it drops onto a component with some dust on it the dust will go into solution in the coolant and make the coolant conductive. The same is true for water; pure distilled water is not conductive, but as soon as impurities get in it it becomes conductive.


    The best thing to do is to be sure that all the tube to barb connections are secure and if necessary use a bit of Teflon tape on the threads of the barbs to make sure they seal correctly. If you take those precautions you shouldn't have any leaks unless you puncture a radiator with a screw.

  9. Hey, what is the difference between the D-Tek Fuzion v1 and v2? which would you choose for a Q9450


    The primary difference is a redesigned hold-down/retention mechanism. Also, the top is somewhat different and there may be a minor performance boost. Either one is fine for a Q9450; just be sure the radiator is able to extract the heat of the CPU from the water (I would never recommend less than a 240mm rad).

  10. Thanks for the info, would you have them pushing air through the rad, or pulling it though.


    I don't think there's a major performance difference (pull might have a slight advantage) so in realiy it comes down to space and how it fits best; if you fave enough room, you could even have a push & pull configuration with fans on each side.

  11. Hey hows it going. Ive got a question, i am planing on buying a swiftech rad the one that has two 120mm fans, ive got two scythe 3000 ultra kaze 120x38mm 133.60 cfm fans that i had in another case. I was wanting to know if these would be good fans for the swiftech rad. I dont care about the noise, i know they are loud, im more interested in removing heat. If not what would be a good rad. for these fans. Thanks for any info.


    Those fans should be OK; just I'd suggest using a shroud between the fans and the rad ;)

  12. what do you think of this product?


    NorthQ 3580 Siberian Tiger Universal Liquid CPU Cooler


    Typically the all in one H2O kits perform about the same as a good heatpipe cooler; I personally would rather opt for a Swiftech H2O-220 before purchasing a product from a company I hadn't heard of before, particularly since Swiftech is know for producing quality components that perform quite well.

  13. A fridge may or may not be able to handle the thermal load of the components in a cooling loop; they are primarily designed to maintain a setpoint temperature.


    Condensation on the tubing is only an issue if the temp on the outside surface of the tubing exposed to the air is lower than the ambient wet-bulb temperature or dew-point (based on the ambient room temperature and relative humidity). The easiest way of protecting against condensation is to put some tube/pipe insulation around the tubing.

  14. Part of the reason why it takes longer to bleed may be due to the actual reservopir design. It looks like you used to have the Swiftech Micro Res; in that res the baffle was designed to aid in separating the air bubbles out of the main flow of fluid to speed up the bleeding process.


    There shouldn't really be any issues with having the rad on top of the case; it does sometimes help to move the case around a bit to help the bubbles purge through to the res. The other alternative, which may or may not help, would be to hang the RAD on the rear of the case instead of on top.

  15. How much would it cost for a simple initial set up. Say a DTek CPU block, Swiftech Pump, resevoir (are any better than others?), Thermochill rad, tubing, and whatever else I need?


    Sorry I didn't reply sooner; just joined the staff of another forum so that's kept me busy.



    D-Tek Fuzion V2 - $64.99

    LAING D5 Vario aka Swiftech MCP-655 - $84.99

    Swiftech Micro Res - $19.95 (major differences between reservoirs is size/style but no real functional differences)

    Thermochill PA 120.2 - $119.95 or Black Ice GTX 240 - $99.95 or Swiftech MCR-220 - $46.99

    7/16" ID MasterKleer - $0.59/ft or 1/2" ID Feser Tube UV Red, Blue, Green - $2.75/ft -- you'll most likely need ~10ft

    Biocide - $2.75

    Hose Clamps - $0.60 ea 1 per barb = 8; I personally just use zip ties.

  16. may even be that the site is remembering who you are based on your IP; most sites/forums have the remember me box unchecked by default, but some have it checked (AFAIK OCC has it checked by default)

  17. newegg is a giant warehouse they are not going to go and pick the item out of the shelfs then charge your card they are going to charge your card then go to the item pick it up with a cart and anything else you order and put it into a toat with any other items you may have ordered. if the item is not there then they enter it into there scan guns letting the system know they are out. so what has happened is that some one either didnt scan the last item and tell the system they were out. or they are awaiting a new shipment. its how every center like this works i should know i was in charge of the people packing items to be sent out.


    I think newegg's inventory system is more advanced than that and tracks inventory on the shelves as well as the number of those in stock that are reserved (i.e. order already placed); but problems could occur if someone entered the wrong number of incoming items when they get a shipment or if two people happen to place an order for the last available item at the same time.

  18. I dont mean to hi jack, but how can you decide what is a quality pump and CPU block, since those two are out of stock I was just wondering what seperates a great one from a ok one? Also if someone would explain to me WHY it is good and not just that it is good I would apperciate it greatly, I would much rather know why I am buying something instead of buying it just because someone said it was good =)


    Another good read here: http://forums.overclockersclub.com/index.php?showtopic=80390


    In my opinion the best pumps are the LIAND D5 and the LIANG DDC with Petra's Tech Top (other custom tops may be on par with the Petra's tech but I'm not sure). The custom top increases both the pressure head and flowrate and bring's it's performance about on par with the D5


    Regarding the blocks; the internal desing is critical in terms of heat transfer effectiveness as well as pressure drop across it (the lower the pressure drop the better). the D-Tek Fuzion is the best on the market, but other top performers are the DangerDen TDX, EK Supreme, and Swiftech Apogee GT.

  19. So you registered here just to rant about how you think you got screwed by newegg.


    Bear in mind that Newegg has such a large volume of sales that potentially more people would be trying to order a given item than what they have in stock, and this could result in a problem if 2 people submitted an order at the exact same instant.


    In the few instances where there were problems with an order I placed from them they always went above and beyond to resolve the situation; they even once refunded the amount of a rebate I was supposed to receive when the manufacturer didn't want to honor the rebate.


    I've been very satisfied with their service [off topic]just wish they'd go back to FedEx as they're primary carrier[/off topic] and their customer service has been exceptional.


    With the amount of orders they have to process, there are bound to be a few issues here and there; you just seem to have been one of the unlucky ones, but from my perspective (and yes I did read the whole conversation) they went out of their way to try to straighten things out for you.

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