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endlesszeal

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  1. im giving up on this rig.... after a few hours of just surfing, dling, etc.. it will start to idle at 45-48C and the only way to get it down to low 40s again is to turn every fan i have on full blast plus gfx card... i have 1 intake, 1 bottom intake, 1 top exhaust, 1 back exhaust and psu exhaust, all 120mm. ive remounted and readjusted the cooler so the a64 blows back out of the case instead of up or down.. that helped a little but seeing idling so high frustrates me.. gaming even puts it up to even 61ish... the only thing i can think of now is to lap both the chip and the heatsink but i have niether time or skill.. everything is running fine so imma just leave it alone. ive thrown enough money at it and im just gonna use it till it gives up the ghost and backup my hdd a bit more often until i can afford a new rig.. any suggestions besides lapping or removing the ihs will be appericated. -ae
  2. I just got the G.Skill sticks. Popped them in and ran two loops of memtest. SEems to be running fine. Tried to see how high i can get them on stock timing and voltage, ended up right about 220mhz.
  3. I ended getting a set of G.SKill PC3200 F1s off ebay. Are these any good? Its the F1-3200PHU2-2GBNS. Should I still flash to TMod's BIOS?
  4. I recently upgraded to an X2 4200+. I would really like to keep my system for a bit longer before the inevitable move to DDR2/3 and Quad-core. Anyway, I cant afford the good stuff like the OCZs, Mushkins and such. Ive been trying to look for used ones, but even the G.Skills are around 90-100 used. To the point, I saw some PQI Turbos for $80 after rebate: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...Tpk=pqi%2bturbo and these Adata's for $70: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16820211014 Are any of these good choices for the DFi Ultra-D. I dont really care about overclocking memory because Im using value ram with dividers anyway. I just want stability and being able to boot because I know these boards hate cheap RAM. Or should I just keep waiting and looking at the forums: anandtech, here, hardocp, ebay, etc.. to try and get some OCZs, Mushkins or G.Skills?
  5. I have a DFI Ultra-D board with an AF Pro 64. Ive been wanting to adjust it for a while because it was in the default mounting position, with either the fan blowing up or down on gfx card. I had it pointing down, but that created a huge eddy of hot air and my processor was loading at 63-65C and PWMIC was at like 55C. I finally found some time to tear my build down to re-wired everything, adjusted the mounting by removing pin and lining the nipples. Now, my cooler points the hot air towards the rear of the case and my temps dropped across the board. Before After CPU: 38C 31C Load: 64C 57C PWMIC: 39C 46C Load: 48C 55C Chipset: 42C 40C Load: 48C 44C I forgot to mention that before, I had all fans on full blast, but when I was adjusting everything I also picked up a Sunbeam Rheobus fan controller. All fans are now at 7v for idle and full blast at load. Thing is awesome, but LEDs on it are freaking bright. Bright like police lights, especially with red and blue LEDs on. Anyway, DFI Ultra D + AF Pro 64 + Thermalright HR-05 SLI= FTW on the budget Sunbeam Rheobus + Cooler Master 690
  6. Try giving this a shot! http://forums.anandtech.com/messageview.as...9&enterthread=y Definitely worth it if you can get in on it.
  7. Yeah its with the AC Pro on it. Im just going to wait till I get the CM690 case and reset the heatsink when I move into it. Anyway, so the CORE temps are more important that CPU? ANd are the programs I am using fairly accurate?
  8. Well I took the plunged and plunkered down for a X2 4200+. Upgraded from a 3000+ Venice @ 2.4ghz. Initially I was pissed because a couple of the pins were bent. However, I remembered you can fix that with a mechanical pencil. After that, slapped on some AS5 and my Arctic Freezer Pro. Everything booted up fine but ITE guardian was all funky. The fan speeds were going between 1300 and zero for my cpu cooler and my fan2 was stuck at 600rpm. Uninstalling old and reinstalling the newest version of ITE fixed that. The next thing was download all the MS hot fixes and the AMD dual core optimizer. Now here are the questions and info on my settings: CPU FSB: 235mhz CPU Start Up: 1.325v CPU Special VID: 104% LDT/FSB: 4X Memory: 9/10 Dividers Timing: 3-3-3-8 1T Mem V: 2.8v Everything else was set to default and CnQ was of course turned off. I started Orthos 2004 dual core edition and when I was testing it, my temperatures started to sky rocket. That is, according to Everest and Core Temp. LOAD Everest: CPU: 44C CPU 1: 59C CPU 2: 53C Core Temp: Core 0: 59C Core 1: 53C ITE Guardian: CPU: 44C IDLE Everest: CPU: 35C CPU 1: 38C CPU 2: 39C Core Temp: Core 0: 40C Core 1: 37C ITE Guardian: CPU: 35C I left the case open for the Load part. So question is, which of those temperatures represent a "true" indication of CPU temps and should be more worried about? If its the Everest and Core Temp. Im very concerned about it reaching 60C for one of the cores. Also my PWMIC was around 61ish. A little too high? BTW chipset never exceeded 47C. I LOVE THE THERMALRIGHT HR-05. I ran Orthos for about 3 hours and decided to stop in case those temps were too high until I get a better cooling case. And lastly, is there anything else to install besides the AMD optimizer? Thanks a lot for reading this guys.
  9. http://www.diy-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28049 That is all.
  10. Hey guys, Ive decided to move up from my 3000+ Venice :tooth: I was looking at the "egg" and they had a X2 4200+ at $59.99 with coupon and another at $69.99. The lower priced one is the manchester core and the other is the toledo. I did a bit of researching and people said the toledo was better, but is it worth the extra $10? Its a newer core that is more energy efficient? And its supposed to clock better than the manchesters? I will be overclocking but only looking at 2.4-2.6ghz. Nothing too crazy because I want to eventually upgrade to a quad by the summer. Anyway, thanks a lot.
  11. I bought this case last month and I have mixed feelings. Pros: -Removable Motherboard Tray -Large and Roomy -Good Cooling Con: -Feels really cheap -I noticed lots of sharp edges -Poor fit I personally think it is not worth $30, especially at the retail price. It just felt too cheap to me. I think the Cooler Master Mystique from www.svc.com for $30 is a way better deal. It is aluminium also, but it doesnt feel generic like the Ultra. It even has a 120mm side cooling fan. The only downside is non removable tray and its a bit cramped. However the build quality to me is night and day between the Ultra and the Cooler Master.
  12. I scrubbed up some change and found a pretty good deal for an Antec Trio 650 from a friend. Since my 450w OCZ Modstream is a tad under spec'd, even though its been fine for the past year, I decided I needed a beefier PSU since Ill probably upgrade to dual-core and overclock with perhaps another 7600gs. Anyway, all I have to say is that its a great PSU. Its a lot more stable than my OCZ because the voltages arent bouncing around at all, even though it was like 0.02v once in a while. Also, I feel more safe that its above the 480w recommended for DFI boards. Its also pretty quiet as well. The negatives are its ugly and connectors arent for me. I only have 4-pin devices so there are 2 lines with them. One with 3 and one with 2 and a floppy connector. I never connect my hard drives on another connector unless it was another hard drive, old habit i guess. SO the rest of the connections are daisy-chained to the 2 four-pin and floppy drive. One big question is, how the heck do I control the fans if I connect them to the "fan only" connectors?? None of my chassis fans spin because my system isnt enough to load it with prime95 going. Is there a way to make it so I can control my own fan speeds with the "control" on this PSU? Anyway, great power supply for those looking for a decent deal. I saw them go for $80 at fry's.
  13. So what do you need to run AM2 at 1:1? Heres how i "figured" AM2 needed 800mhzz: DDR2 800mhz is equilvent to DDR1 200mhz according to wikipedia. Since AM2 is 200mhz also, that means it must need the equivalent of DDR1 200mhz, which is DDR2 800mhz. Well anyway, i told ya im confused. haha. sorry for being a newb. So what speed DDR2 do you need to run Conroe and Am2 to be 1:1 with cpu? 533mhz and 400mhz DDR2 respecitvely?
  14. I think I am still confused about Intel's, or DDR2 timing in general. But heres what i think it is: Conroes are at 266mhz fsb (stock) meaning it gives a total fsb of 1066. To run it at a 1:1 ratio with RAM, it only needs 533mhz ram? Because 533 x 2 = 1066. So with the E6300 it has a multiplier of 7, thus 266 x 7 = 1862mhz for CPU. So if I get 800mhz DDR2 and want it to run 1:1 with the CPU, I need to overclock the cpu an additional 134mhz and the total memory fsb would be 1600mhz? Also the resulting would be 400 x 7 = 2800mhz for the cpu? And now about AM2. Stock AM2 is 200mhz fsb, but needs DDR2 800mhz ram instead of DDR2 533mhz to run 1:1? So that means if I want to overclock the AM2, I need to get higher speed RAM or overclock the RAM? Conclusion: Cheaper to overclock with Intel because DDR2 800mhz leaves headroom, but for AMD it needs it to run 1:1?
  15. Yate Loons = 0.30a max and 1.8 watts. Arctic Freezer = 0.16a and 1.56 watts Cooler Master = 0.15a +/-10% and 1.8+/-10% So worst case is 0.625amps and 5.34 watts total draw on all 3 fans on 3 of the motherboard headers. Rgone says 0.52a and 6.24 watts max on each header and a total of 2.1 amps and 25.2 watts on all 4 headers. Thus, I should be okay right since Im well under the limits? Comments? Suggestions? Danks =)
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