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KraZy

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Posts posted by KraZy


  1. I think I just fixed mine. Time and heat had slowly warped the car to the point where it was not seating properly. It was so subtile that it would take about 30mins for the card to warm up enough to the point where it would distort enough to loose contact. (Signs of this were also evident in odd fluctuations of my rail voltages, btw. it was mainly the +12v rail that was giving the hint...)

     

    Ok, here is my point: monitor -everything- and maybe you will get a hint about the problems.


  2. The first board was lost for compound reasons, but at the root of it was the condensation. :( Thanks for the link!

     

    But anyway, since the fist post, I have sucesfully eliminated my condensation problems, and a tutorial is in the works to pass on what I learned from my first set of mistakes. It seems that there is a need for more of the tutorials on pelt installation, so I will be adding my two cents to the mix. (And some good pics too...)


  3. actually, I disagree with taking the side off.....

    keeping the side on keeps proper air flow through the case...

    But lowers temps.. because it alows more COOL air from the outside to circulate with in the case :D

    Not for me....I have seen temps go up with the side OFF since air wasn't flowing where it needed to go...

    Now, I ma running water so you lose the fan from the heatsink, so that may be the difference....

    Now for me, my airflow in my case is extremely balanced, so my board temps go up about 5C when I take the side off. The better I plan my case, the better the temps are when it is closed.


  4. Whoa here! I think that you are getting -way- too many numbers mixed up here. Lets see if I can organize it a little.....

     

    81C = 178F (just incase we got mixed up somewhere) ;)

    81F = 27C (normal ambient temps)

    91F = 33C (max ambient temps)

    71C = 159.80C

    105C = 221F (if you are reading the temps right, 105 would fry your core. sorry, if it still boots I lean to the operator-error side.)

     

    -worst case numbers here-

     

    Take the ambient temps and add 25C -should- be where your CPU is at. Stock, or not. If the house is at 27C, your CPU would be @ 53C +/- 10C

     

    (Edit: Wait a sec here.. if we truely use the -worst- case numbers, you need to add about 40 to 50C to the ambient...) :P


  5. Alright. I have used alot of foam around the cpu and the pelt, and have filled in all the gaps that I could find with RTV sealent and finished with di-electric grease, but I am still getting bits of condensation leaking out from the foam. I am almost out of possibilites for the causes of this. Any one else have problems with thier pelt, and what is the most effective method of trouble shooting condensation problems?

     

    (Chalk-one-up for the hardware gods, as they claimed my first IC7MAX3 motherboard to this problem..)


  6. Aight... this might be a good mod for water cooling people, that have problems with too much congestion in thier case.. Granted, this is not original, but it will be asthetically pleasing when it gets finished.

     

    Instead of using a mid-tower case, or any other large case, try this out. Granted, alot more modification is needed to get everything clean and mounted properly, but you should see how empty my computer case looks now!


  7. Max3's calculate the temperature high! The temperature that you see is not a bad thing. Even though the on-die diode gives a static value to the BIOS, it is up to the manufacturer how the temps are reported.

     

    I have seen a review somewhere where one person took the came CPU on two different boards, with the same cooling, and one registered 30C and the Abit registered around 50C.


  8. Aight, I am getting all the goodies for my pelt setup to as follows:

     

    MeanWell PSU

    226W Potted Pelt

    Maze 4 with coldplate

    A load of noprene and di-electric grease

    (pre-existing Swiftec rads/pump....)

     

    I still have this nagging feeling like I am forgetting something though...

     

    Has anyone recently installed a pelt and encountered any 'strange' problems that would be worthy of note? (especially with the Abit IC7-Max3...)

     

    What are the life span of pelts? I will be going overseas for 6 months and I have to leave my computer in the company of my wife who knows nothing of the problems that could ocurr. :lol: During this time, I -plan- on my computer still being up 24/7...

     

    Ahh! The big question. Between the pelt and cold plate and between the waterblock and pelt, do I use AS epoxy, regular AS5, AS3, plain goop or nothing? (the 'nothing' really doesn't seem right, but I just thought I would ask.......)


  9. For my non-OC system, I am happy with my Thermaltake Aquarius II system that I got for around $140 or so, but I really don't want to overclock with the thing though. It is by far one of the easiest water setups that I have put together. I think total assembly time for it was about one hour. Temps ain't that great, but good enough.

     

    Also, around this price range are systems from Corsair and Evercool that might also suit your needs. There is a varity of GPU/Chipset blocks that you can find that are interchangable with these three systems for a modest price as well. (I believe that Koolance has some of the best small tubing blocks....)

     

    With all the brands listed above, you -should- be able to stay under the $200 range, but $115 is really pushing it....

     

    In contrast...... B)

     

    On my big system though, the cost is climbing -fast-. Right now, I use a combination of 2 Swiftech kits that cost me about $150 each. On order, I -just- got a 226W Danger Den Maze4-cooled Pelt with a Meanwell psu and all the anti-condensation goodies and extras for about $270. This is not including all my spare tubing and gallon of 'juice' that I have in reserve. Granted, I have a few spare parts, but they come in handy. (-realllly- handy )

     

    Total cost around $600. The OC's I get: Priceless!


  10. :blink: You should never use polish on your heatsink. The polish is a thin layer of oils that block proper heat transfer. If you use polish such as brasso you're definitely not getting the best cooling from your heatsink.

    Funny... here I thought that polish like that was actually a fine abrasive in itself. It makes sense for it to be, anyway. You usually have to apply the stuff and let it dry before you polish it off. If the surface is polished with brasso (ditto on military usage of the stuff, btw... <_< ) and cleaned with alchohol and goo-gone (-my- new fav.) there should't be any problems...


  11. Sounds to me like ambient temps kicking in, or you just have a 'bad' application. With personal experience, every time that I take off the HSK and reapply goop, I usually get a variance in my temps of about 2 or 3C anyway. BTW, use a little less AS5 than you would with any other compound.

     

    What is it? 7F equates to about a 4C differance... (sorry, alot of us think in C..)


  12. Ditto on the AL rivits. But, for one, when you actually start to pull the rivet, put as much pressure as you can on the rivet and this will help the top of the rivet flatten out a little more. You will need brute strength sometimes, but the end result is good. Also, you will have a little room to actually sand them down a little too.


  13. Just as a side note about lapping..

     

    Even stock hsk performance can be increased dramatically with lapping. When I get new products off the shelf, from mother boards to video cards, I usually take off all the stock hsks, lap them and replace all that thermal tape with AS5. Of course, I usually don't go into a full round of lapping but just down to about 1000 grit or so. (Good hsks I can take down to as low as 2500 grit.. :) ) Even 1000 grit is usually hella better than what the factory does...

     

    Edit: Anyone know the translation of grit-to-micron? I have a good suppply of paper used for polishing fiber-optic connectors and we go down to about .01 micron finish on those...

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