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Everything posted by KraZy

  1. If he is not running with goop, he probably gots a thermal pad. That is the only thing that I can think of that would keep his temps in range.
  2. Personally I would invest in a Lan-Li PC75. After all, the case will go through several generations of hardware, so if you have to spend money on anything, let it be the case. That is a full tower case, and will definatly be worth the $$. I have seen in upwards of 13 or 14 80mm fans in that case, so 80mm or 120mm is not really an issue. Not only that, it is a cool looking case. (sorry for the plug on lanli.. )
  3. Keep in mind though, -don't get too carried away with it!- for thermal compound less==more and more==less!
  4. actually, that is where i got the idea for that little device. Like I said, i just cant get the water moving slow enough through the second block like that little setup has..
  5. Aight... final results are in: Test bench: Abit ic7-Max3 p4 3.0C OC 3.2314 @ 1.520v (215.4 x 15) OCZ 1gb Room temperature: 22.2222222C (gotta love the F converstion..) Without cooler-mod: Idle: 40c Load: Looping Sandra CPU benchmarks: 47c 3dMark2003: 48c With cooler-mod: Idle: 38c Load: Looping Sandra: 44c 3dMark2001: 44c 3dMark2003: 45c My conclusion: If i could only get more power to the pelt, I might get better results.. This mod simply ain't worth the $100 in parts and time it took to build, but it remains just for the 'wow' factor.
  6. fyi, i just disabled the HT on mine, and got about the same heat increase.
  7. Still run my 2 rads... I use them to dissipate the heat from the CPU so that the pelt will just cool the water.. In the pic, you can see how it mounted smoothly onto one of my intake fans, and chills the water before it gets used in the cpu block. I opted to put it before the pump so that there would be no drop in pressure right before the cpu.
  8. You know I actually thought about putting a pelt on a rad before.. I just can't get a good picture of that in my head.. One problem that I do see, is I cannot get the water moving slow enough through the cooled block. I was thinking about adding about 2 or three feet of extra hose before the block so that it would loose alot of pressure before it gets cooled. Unfortunatly, I dont know how that would effect the rest of the system.. Currently I still run a bit hot for a water system, but there is only about a 5C difference in idle-load temps. (38C to 42-43C) And, I might add, it cools down mad-quick.
  9. Aight... any input on this one? I was wonder what to do with my extra waterblock and hsk (both Swiftech) and came up with an interesting idea to help cool my water down in my system. With this arrangment, I only get about a 2 to 3c idle loss, but my load temps are staying way down. I will have numbers for the hardcore as soon as i finish testing, but initally this is an interesting setup. Simple construction: Swiftech MCX-462+ (hot side pelt) Swiftech Water block (cold side) One pelt /w AS epoxy. Quick and easy.
  10. I personally have had 'sticky' results with AS5. I played around with several different applications of it, ranging from heavy application to paper-thin. I found that the paper thin worked the best, and helped prevent excesive 'stickage' of the cpu to my hsk. I also noticed that it does take a bit for it to cure and get the temps to settle. My advice: re-apply.
  11. I have heard of a few problems with the plastic bracket that is on the MAX-3.. I am new to P4's, but it -looks- like the standard bracket that goes on any other intel board. It know it can be removed to accomidate other hsks. BUT, i can forsee where the OETS or chipset hsk on our boards (i run the MAX3 too.) would cause problems with larger hsks like the newer swiftecs....
  12. Actually, the purer water gets, it will get more and more agressive as a solvent itself. Ultra-pure water will even start to attack glass. This might be a little out of the scope of the subject, put the point was about the conductivity of water on electronics. Now I'm not saying that if you drop a glass of water on your desk, it will eat a hole through the desk in a few seconds. If you were to submerse a piece of metal in degassed h20, you would see after a time that the metal would still degrade. Still, distilled water is -far- from pure.
  13. OC'ing/MOD K.I.As 1 286 12mhz mobo and hdd (i count this because it was my first attempted mod waaay back when...) - $500 1 radeon 9800 - $399 1 256mb 2700 - $69 1 ps -$65 1 athlon 2400+ $245 and 2 maxtor 160gb hdds - $300 . .... ....... ......... 2ghz overclock...... priceless.
  14. Correction: AS5 only seems like epoxy. The goop forms such a tight seal, removing the stuck-on cpu from the bottom of the hsk is a pain. (this is a good thing, and a bad thing i guess..)
  15. Click here for a list of about 200 research groups and colleges that say otherwise. Morgan Advanced Ceramics - "Diamond has long been the technologically preferred material for critical thermal management applications due to its extremely high thermal conductivity, low coefficient of thermal expansion and high electrical resistivity. High costs, however, have traditionally been associated with diamond heat spreaders." Reserch Paper released by University of Bristol, U.K. stating extreme properties of CVD Diamonds on Berkeley.edu Want more?
  16. what i got in the habit of doing is: 1. laying a dry run of my h2o system inside my case 2. loosly connect it 3. take the whole system out of my case 4. tighten and double check all fittings 5. Fill system 7. run and remove all of the air. 6. leak-test for a few hours. (also gives me one last chance to catch stray air.) 7. -carefully- put the system back in Presto!
  17. btw, they are "real" diamonds, just that they come in wafer form most of the time, and cannot pass for gem stones. like i said, they would be kick-. for heatsinks, and they are a heck of alot cheaper than regular rocks. also, it seems that the clarity of the crystal does not matter that much... so, even if a completely yellow wafer were made, it would still surpas silver in heat transfer. (hence, making it alot cheeper..)
  18. (Tight thread btw..) B) First and formost I am an overclocker. I usually lurk more than I talk around these forums, but if you need me, I am here.. Active duty Navy for my day job. I currently maintain and operate shipboard computer network systems and satellite communications hardware. Umm.. it sounds alot beter than it actually is, but I enjoy it! In my off time, which is rare, I split my time between my wife and my computers. She almost understands the concept of how computer-geeks operate, but she ain't quite there yet... Props to all, and see-ya's in the forums.
  19. MS OS install == Click Ok->Click Ok->Click Ok->Click Ok->Generate Key->Click OK. Done. Just saved you $130.
  20. I was getting good OC results with my 2400+ with my Swiftech 462+ all the way up to 2.375ghz... Unless water or phase change cooling is used, dont expect to get higher than that.
  21. I had some problems with cutting my case at first with my dremel. I think I went through about 8 wheels while i was cutting a hole for my 80mm... it just takes time is all..
  22. Distilled water is nonconductive, but its highly corrosive. I have seen what a high humidity environment can do to a room full of computers. (no *hit. We lost about 30 computers to this at my job... don't ask..) Ahh.. I remember those feelings when I first assembled my H2O system. (it was a sleepless first night... almost like having a newborn.) But if you take the time to put your system together right, you wont have any problems running 24/7.
  23. So much for the dB loss... Must be loud as sin..
  24. I got mucho problems with my cpu getting stuck to my heatsink! I use AS5 which might as well be an epoxy.. Every time I pull my hsk, I expect my CPU to come with it, so I have to be extremely carful when I do. And yep, it is not that good for the ZIF locking mechanisim, btw.
  25. Aight... I was doing some heavy research into this and found that alcohol will increase the surface tention of water and greatly decrease waters themal dispersion. If you must add alcohol, don't add isopropyl (rubbing alcohol, which is only 70% pure) but use pure ethyl alchohol. The closest thing to pure would be Everclear, as there are quite a few other things in your vodka that would degrade PVC tubing. The best liquid to use is straight water with a little bit of water-wetter. This will still decrease the waters thermal dispersion, but it will greatly reduce the surface tention, allowing better flowage and kill any little critters. Whew.
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