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Yukon Trooper

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Everything posted by Yukon Trooper

  1. All items sold! Goodbye DIY-Street, I will miss you! See all you members on the flip-side!
  2. Bump and price drop. $55 shipped for the board, $35 shipped for each hard drive, or $60 for both.
  3. Newegg probably just hasn't updated their naming scheme. One more thing. If you plan on using the optical out for surround sound you'll either A) Have to buy a special dongle that lets you use HDMI and optical out at the same time, or B) Remove the casing of the AV cable, so that both the AV cable and the HDMI cable will be able to fit into the rear of the 360. The optical out is on the back of the AV cable, and the AV cable casing is too large for it and the HDMI cable to be plugged in at the same time. The dongle I speak of has optical and stereo out, but it's slim enough to fit into the 360 while using HDMI at the same time. The Elite actually comes stock with one, but it's obviously not worth the extra money. I would suggest tearing open the housing on the stock AV cable, unless you're worried about cosmetics because you'll have the full AV cable hanging out the back end of the Xbox. If you're using HDMI on the 360 for audio and video then obviously none of this will be required. Not sure if you can pass audio through your projector or not. Cheers.
  4. Any console built after August 2007 is 65nm. HDMI was added around the same time, but I'm unsure if all HDMI 360's are 65nm.
  5. Grab the regular Pro version and you're good to go. The Arcade you don't want because it doesn't have a HD, but you don't want the Elite either because you're paying for a black case and hard drive space you likely won't use. The Pro used to be called the Premium until it received HDMI capability as a standard. All the new units are on 65nm.
  6. Bear Grylls is a weenie. Les Stroud out survives weenies. @Suedenim - You need to see Band of Brothers if you haven't already. High quality throughout. Story, screenplay, acting, footage, history etc. Masterpiece. 9.6/10 on IMDB and 90% on Rotten Tomatoes is a feat in its own right. Those are some critical reviewers.
  7. OK, so... First Drive: C: OS/Games/Apps E: Storage Second Drive: F: Pagefile G: My Documents/Temp Folders H: Storage What is the advantage of having the "My Documents" folder on a second drive? Same theory of having the second drive being able to read from the pagefile, while the first drive reads the apps/games? Someone also mentioned putting all my temp folders on the second drive, so I put it with the "My Documents" partition. Is this recommended for the same reason as above?
  8. Breaking my RAID array and going with two single drives. How should I set them up? I've read it's best to have the OS on one drive, and to have apps/games/pagefile on the other. I will store files on both drives, as they are 750GB drives. So my setup would look something like this: First Drive: C: OS E: Storage Second Drive: F: Pagefile G: Apps/Games H: Storage This would be the optimal setup, correct?
  9. If you lose with a E8400 to a 6400+, you should be banned from this forum.
  10. You could probably get away with it, but I sure as hell wouldn't do it. Especially if you're going to overclock the card. To each their own, I suppose.
  11. I was tempted, but didn't want to burn my house down.
  12. Yes, they can, but most games will require you to have the disc in the machine at the time. If you try playing a multi-player game on both machines, it will log off the client that connected first. This is only net based, not LAN based. that kind of stuff is off-limits...be careful in your wording about what you suggest...
  13. I know. I was just commending you on the good headphone purchase.
  14. Nah, it's fairly common. I have 13 stuck pixels on my 24" LCD, but I I don't ever notice them. The only three you can see are to the left and down of middle. The rest are small enough that they aren't visible, unless I put my nose up to the screen. I do plan on executing my warranty though, because LG will replace your unit if you have 12+ stuck pixels. Their dead pixel policy is a bit different. My Olevia 542i HDTV, which I just picked up two days ago, has one stuck pixel and one dead pixel. They are both quite noticeable, so I will be getting a replacement soon. Luckily the store I purchased it from has a 30 day satisfaction guarantee.
  15. It's a stuck pixel. Dead pixels are black. Stuck pixels can be recoverable if you attend to them quickly enough. There are some programs out there that flash very fast patterns of color in an attempt to relieve the stuck pixel. Just Google and you should be able to find a few. You can also press on the stuck pixel with a blunt object, which has worked for me in the past. Eraser, or the like.
  16. The Gigabyte P35's are really good boards for the price. I'd look at the DS3R or DS3L if you choose the Gigabyte path. The R version includes RAID and a beefier NB heatsink, so that might be the one you'd be most interested in. You'd have to redo your RAID array, as it's on a different controller, so take that into account. Another strong candidate at that price point is the Abit IP35 Pro. As far as processors go, I wouldn't go with anything less than the E4*** series, as you'll want at least the 2MB of cache it provides. Low cache can cripple game performance on CPU intensive games. Basically try to avoid the E2160, E2180 etc., which only have 1MB of cache. I would strongly recommend a CPU with 4MB of cache, but most of those processors might be out of your price range if you buy retail. If you have no problem buying used, you could pick up a E6600, E6420, or E6320 for around $140, which is the same price as a brand new E4500. Those three chips all carry 4MB of cache. You could even pick up a used Q6600 on firesale, because the Yorkfield quads are just around the corner, so many enthusiasts will be selling their current quads to upgrade. With memory, I would just pick up the cheapest brand name DDR2-800 you can find at that time. The difference of performance in games between the cheapest and most expensive memory is negligible. DDR2-800 is REALLY cheap right now, so you can find high quality 2GB kits for under $50. Here is some G.SKILL on Newegg for $44.99: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx...N82E16820231098
  17. C2D with 2 gigs of ram will outshine the Opteron system with 1 gig for the RTS genre. The Opteron would still be able to handle what you threw at it, but you would definitely see improvements in games that scale with the CPU. The C2D will also offer you greater headroom into the future. A graphics card is just as important, however, for newer RTS games. Supreme Commander is a good example of a game that requires CPU power for the multitude of calculations, and a GPU for the heavy geometry. A thorough GPU and CPU scaling test on Supreme Commander, done by Behardware: http://www.behardware.com/articles/660-1/s...-benchmark.html For most games, yes, but the RTS genre is a niche of games that scale well with CPU power. Artificial intelligence, unit mapping, and projectile movement is all done by CPU calculations.
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