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sykocus

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Everything posted by sykocus

  1. It's been a while since I've be on OCC, but I'm cleaning out my closet and posting these things up here first. They are all from a project that never really got off the ground a couple years ago. All the water cooling stuff is unused other then to assemble them. Prices include shipping, which will be via USPS Priority mail. Unless otherwise mentioned everything sold "As is..". Swiftech Storm $15 http://www.swiftnets.com/products/Storm.asp Once the top of the line water block, it's since been eclipsed by newer designs. I have no idea how it compares now. Comes with barbs for 1/2" and 3/8" tubing as well as original mounting for socket 754, 939, 940, 468, 478, 775, 603/604. As you can see there is some tarnishing on the inside of the block, but that's purely cosmetic. DDC-1 18W pump with Alphacool Top $50 http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/ind...roducts_id=4509 Never been used, I don't have have any tubing or fittings for it so I can't test it out. If it doesn't work let me know within a reasonable amount of time and I'll refund your money. Delrin Fillport $5 http://www.dangerden.com/store/delrin-fillport.html The body is made of Delrin and the fitting is nikel plated brass. 1/2" OD fitting. Thermochill pa120.3 Radiator $50 http://www.thermo-chill.com/old/pa1203.php Comes with fan mounting screws, neoprene gasket and fittings for 1/2" tubing. It has some superficial scuffs on it (which the matte black paint is very susceptible to). Also there's a very small area where the paint chipped away. 2x Plexi Aquatube reservoir $70 each http://www.aqua-computer.de/e_index.htm These are pretty unique. It's my understanding they only made 100 in plexiglass. Matrix Orbital 410 LCD $30 http://www.matrixorbital.com/mx410-p-410.html Comes with 8 temperature probes and close to 50 WOL cables (used for connecting the temp probes to the LCD). There's some light scuffs on the front of the mounting plate. New mounts can be bought for about $30. http://www.matrixorbital.com/lcd-accessori...ng-c-26_30.html. There are a couple bent pins on the back and one broken pin GPO pin. I plugged it in and sent text to the screen and every thing worked fine. MISC: Yellow/Green UV water dye $1 http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/152429/ForSale/10-20-09_4381.jpg 8x 3/8" tube clamps $1 http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/152429/ForSale/10-20-09_4377.jpg That's all for now. It's almost 4am so hopefully I didn't make too many typos.
  2. to go a step further that monitor doesn't have any kind of tv tuner. it's really a computer monitor with some extra inputs. calling it a tv is a bit of a stretch. I've been looking into getting this monitor myself, it seems to have a decent picture, but you should know that if you ever want to watch tv (High Def or Standard Def) you'll need to hook your cable or satellite box up to the monitor though composite or component inputs.
  3. I've never been able to find a comparison of the two using a recent photoshop version. There is a fairly simple and standardized benchmark anyone can download, but their database results are use the "honor" system and has now way to search the results. http://www.driverheaven.net/photoshop/
  4. Well even though you got it to work is it really the best thing to do? I would think that the latency and real world transfer rate of the USB interface would yield poorer results then using your boot drive for a scratch disk.
  5. http://www.snopes.com/photos/animals/kayak.asp
  6. Negatives can be easy to damange especially on the emulsion side. The thing is they aren't going to get in any better condition sitting around. If you want to preserve them, then now is the time to get them scanned. Then you can work on getting the scratches out with photoshop. If you want a more analog approach there's a oil that can be applied to the film base. If the scratches are in the base, the oil will fill them in. Then the negative is printed. You can stop there, have the print scanned in, or even have a new negative burned. Pretty much anything is possible. It all depends on how much you how much you want to pay for it.
  7. Most (if not all) tubing has microscopic pores which water vapor can escape though. I wouldn't worry about it.
  8. thanks for letting me know. you can search google and find there are still some issues with banding on that screen. to save money dell often switches panels in the same model monitor. I never said the 244t was a good monitor for gaming. Hey look, I even said the opposite. since we are talking about ourselves: I edit high resolution photographs and would rather better color reproduction then....anything.
  9. even the a02 revision by dell has some issues with banding. it seems the monitor is made from a couple different panels. And some panels have problems with banding even with the a02 firmware revision. probably not very noticeable if all you are going to do is play games though.
  10. samsung 244t, i just purchased one, after reading many reviews. I've heard of some people having problems with it and gaming, but it has great color reproduction. I'll have to see when i get it. don't know anything about 225bw but the 205bw uses a panel that isn't the best for color. dvd watching and gaming are probably fine, but if you want something for picture editing you should probably look for something thats either s-pva or s-mva. this is a good link with lots of info. http://forums.anandtech.com/messageview.as...p;enterthread=y
  11. most of the time amd and intel list the pricing per 1000 chips on their website, this is what retailers like newegg pay. http://www.amd.com/us-en/Processors/Produc...ml?redir=CPT301 http://www.intel.com/intel/finance/priceli...e_final_web.pdf
  12. lots of things come into play. hitting to an elevated green, hitting a ball out of the rough, hitting the ball into the rough, hitting a ball below your feet, fade, draw, slice, ball spin, ball trajectory, and wind all effect the distance your ball will travel.
  13. newegg has the enterprise version for $300-$5 rebate. i heard the one with the window is $50 more. I never said it was on my shopping list.
  14. it's about modding. 5 years ago if people didn't start cutting out windows for their case then there won't be a point to all the leds, ccfls, colorful wire sleeves, uv reactive motherboards, etc that we have today. peopled started modding their cases, and companies started making more products for them to use, and people modded their cases more to use the products in different ways. no one most people aren't going to buy this hd and stick it in their case as is. they're going to mod their case to show it off...thats the whole point, and it seems most people are missing it. people have been modding their own hd's and cases to show off a HD with a clear cover over it for a long time. It's nothing new, WD has taken out the possibility of killing your HD and is charging you a premium price for it.
  15. That works. Unfortunately you'll end up with a mess of tracks with funny file names. The one up side is the ipod seems to keep the ID3 tags. So you just need a program that can rename the files based on their tags and you'll be ok. Unles you like to have your files organized in different files...then you still have a bit more work.
  16. you're on a roll, don't forget about the creative zen...I'm sure there's others.
  17. http://www.ilounge.com/index.php/articles/...od-to-computer/ ipods aren't the only mp3 player to use a database system for storing music so stop complaining about apple.
  18. exactly. it has nothing to do with people these days. people have been doing things like this for a long time. During wars of the past there have been people that would go around to families of POW's saying they represented a charity organization get money from the familes to to POW's in order to buy favor with their captors. When in reality they would take the money for themselves and run. See the quote in my sig.
  19. I had a similar problem with an external HD. I used a program called file scavenger. http://www.quetek.com/prod02.htm The demo is limited to recovering files under a certain (size), but you can use it to see if it'll help you out before paying $45 for the full version, which is fairly resonable for software of this kind.
  20. they weren't really branded, and it's been so long I don't even know what website i got them from. perhaps you could post pictures you've take so far.
  21. it's a little suprising, as I don't remember having trouble. you should just need to expose the shot long enough. if you have manual controls try leaving the shutter open for at least 1/60 to start, may have to go down lower then that. you may have to turn out most of the lights and not use the flash. as you can see when i took pictures of my UV case you could still see some of the glowing with the lights on. perhaps your UV lights are on the weak side. http://www.overclockersclub.com/gallery/?act=case&id=264
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