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Queenz

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Everything posted by Queenz

  1. I got all my stuff from www.sidewindercomputers.com. If you need any help over there, ask for Gary!!
  2. I got my Bitspower compressions and Tygon Black tubing today. I'm changing all the other fittings and tubing how. Putting on clear tubing reminds me of how much I hate it. Plus on another side note I forgot to clean the radiator thoroughly and the soldering flux made a mess in the loop. Here's the stuff I got: Smile for the camera guys: Installed her boobs: I ordered an EK Reservoir too and going to give my blocks a hydrocloric dip or either have them nickel plated to avoid future corrosion.
  3. I was wondering is it possible that it could be the CV joints or boot? This is it's second pair of struts and it still makes it.
  4. Buy a Nissan GT-R Move to the Hamptons Build a whole bunch of high end computers Give my parents some money Pay someone to kidnap Claymeow and force him to watch me do Natalie Portman Buy OCC off Dave Buy a huge house Buy every model of Infiniti Pay Hayden Panettiere to.......well ya know Buy the Yankees
  5. For the past 2 years my moms 04 Toyota Sienna has been making this crunching noise from the front right end of the car when you go over bumps. The noise is annoying too. It only makes the noise when you go over bumps and when it's very cold outside. In the summer it doesn't make the noise. The vehicle has 98,100 miles on it. She replaced the control arms, struts, stabilizer links, stabilizer bushings, strut insulators, springs and strut bearings. Yet we still can't get rid of the damn sound. We have been to a couple of different places to have it looked at and even the dealer and they all recommend to replace things that already have been replaced. The damn sound won't go away and it's annoying. It sounds like a box spring making a crunching noise. Any ideas? I've asked on a few car forums but only got suggestions to things she replaced already.
  6. Correct! ekim just cause the swiftech block performed well to him doesn't mean it will for other's. You got to think of real world situations such as room temperature, thermal paste, what kind of processor, is it overclocked, how much is it overclocked, is he using distilled water or coolant, what type of radiator, what type of pump, how many and what kind of case fans. You must take all these into factor. Just cause someone got those kind of temps and flow rates with the Swiftech apogee doesn't mean everyone else will. Which is a very little amount of people. Anyone will tell you the Heatkiller block or the EK block over the Apogee anyday. Have you seen their radiators? Sure they perform decently for their price range but the finish is horrendous. That's coming from a guy who has 4 of them. The only thing I ever recommend is their pumps. Either the 355 with the v2 top or the 655.
  7. It's cause Copper is an easily reactive metal. If left for a few months gunk will build up in the block and you won't know. Especially with blocks that have accelerator plates like the HK and EK blocks. In the gathering of O2, H2O,it will oxidize due to one to three possible reactions in the water loop. This happens especially when your loop is exposed to a whole bunch of bubbles when bleeding the system. This is exactly why you should always bleed your system carefully and it is recommended to boil the water before you use it. Yes I do mean boil distilled water. This is why people plate their blocks cause plating with a less reactive metal, such as chromium or nickel will prevent gunk buildup in the block.
  8. Queenz

    Noob

    Welcome to OCC
  9. I always watch it for the women in figure skating. Nothing beats tight clothes on cute women
  10. Update! As you can see in order for the overclock to boot to windows a ton of voltage has to be applied. I got a suckass processor. Overclocking on it sucks, and no matter what I do it won't be stable. It wouldn't even be stable at 3.9GHz The cpu I got was a dud at overclocking. So I went out and bought another Core i7 860 . As a matter of fact I bought two of them .I received one of them today. Different batch# this time. Hopefully better. I also ordered new tubing cause the clear Tygon tubing wasn't the look I was shooting for but that won't be here till later on this week. I bought black Tygon tubing this time for an even more badass look. Plus I bought $100 worth of Bitspower Matte Black compression fittings . I did this cause I hate barbed fittings. So I will be getting rid of my old Bitspower Matte black barbed fittings that I bought 2 weeks ago LOL. I'll probably sell them. Compressions are way better. So here's my new processor: Batch #:
  11. BUSTED! Haha people obviously think we don't read around on the internet cause apparently I see this alot on here but don't bother mentioning it. Anyways I wish people would stop recommending the crap Apogee block. Number 1 it's not the best block. Number 2 swiftech is poorly made stuff. It's a product for beginners. All their products have machining marks and scratches. The finish is horrendous, especially on their radiator products where the finish is painted. The only thing I buy of theirs is the pumps. I'd only buy it if I was on a budget. If you want to step up to the best blocks get the Heatkiller block or the EK Supreme-HF. When you start to really get into watercooling you'll learn about nickel plating your blocks as opposed to copper.
  12. Nothing beats this impression by caliendo:
  13. We got hit pretty hard here too in NY yesterday. But last December was worse. I hate winter in general. There is stuff I need to get done outside and I can't cause of it.
  14. BTW I found out why the block was machined like that. It's just the overall design of the blocks surface. What matters is the contact surface and the channels on the inside which is a U Shape. By having U shaped channels it has a lower restriction and allows the liquid to flow more freely compared to EK blocks. BTW I did some more OCing on my 5870. Stock settings are 850 Core and 1200 Memory. I OCed them to 1030 core and 1330 memory : As you can see I ran Furmark for an hour an a half. Usually with furmark 15 minutes to half an hour is good. No artifacting or VPU recovering or any errors. Temps were 31 degrees idle, and 50 degree load.
  15. sorry I'm just a VQ kind of guy 350z, 370z, G's I love em all! It's just the fanboy in me Anyways most ricer's on the road are sti's, lancers, and civic's. Their everywhere here.
  16. AMD gpu clock tool makes my computer crash after OCing it during GPU stress test
  17. I spotted this on my way home from work on the long island expressway a few weeks ago. Basically this guy had a dual exhaust conversion on his pos Ford escape or expedition whatever the hell it's called and the other one wasn't mounted properly so he tied it on with string and had Pepboys rims LOL Sorry for the crappy blackberry pictures. so ghetto:
  18. Most of the ricers on the road drive POS civics, sti's, and evo's. Seriously none of that stuff looks good.
  19. I'm on water so my 5870 is watercooled . Temps are a sweet 31 degrees idle and 47 degrees load!! Here is a little taste of that: 1000 Core / 1300 Memory
  20. As some of you guys know that the stock clocks of the 5870 are 850 core and 1200 Memory. The ati catalyst control center in the overdrive section only allows you to do a max clock of 900 core and 1300 memory. Well now you can go beyond that by unlocking it and flashing any 5870 with the MSI BIOS. I currently own an XFX 5870 and did it and this is how: You will need to download a few things: * -HP USB Disk Storage Format Tool * -HP USB Boot Files * -ATI Flash * -MSI BIOS * -MSI AfterBurner * -ATI Catalyst 10.1 Suite select your OS * -GPU-Z Now you will need a USB drive and know how to boot on a USB drive * -Install and run HP USB Disk Storage Format Tool. * -Select the USB Drive. In the "File system" drop down box, pick FAT32. click "Quick Format" and "Create a DOS startup disk, using DOS system files located at" then "..." and direct it to the extracted HP Boot Files folder and click Start * -Once that's done, copy the extracted ATI Flash files and MSI BIOS to the USB drive. * -Rename the MSI BIOS from MSI_R5850_unlock.A11 to MSI.A11 * -Load GPU-Z and click the green arrow to the right of BIOS version and click save file. This makes a backup of your current BIOS * -Uninstall everything ATI and Nvidia from your computer except Nvidia Physx * -Restart your computer and boot from USB drive * -Once DOS loads you should see C:\ now type atiflash -f -p 0 MSI.A11 * -When its done it will ask you to restart or do it for you * -When Windows loads it will recognize a new video card * -Install ATI Catalyst 10.1 Suite * -Install MSI AfterBurner if you wish to overclock If you are going to overclock you can now use MSI AfterBurner to adjust your voltage were before you couldn't and gpu/memory settings to higher levels than ATI Overdrive would allow. I dont hold responsibilty for any damages. This will void your warranty should you try to RMA with the MSI BIOS on the card. If you ever need to RMA your 5870, you can reflash with the backup you made earlier should you experience any problems.
  21. Is it scary? I may buy it if it isn't too scary lol.
  22. Nice setup though! What kind of security camera setup is that you got in the background?
  23. Sorry Dave I finished your sentence for you above. Just call it a little pay back for my thread
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