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Kaos

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About Kaos

  • Rank
    New Member

OCC

  • Computer Specs
    Athlon 1.2, GF4 Ti4200, 768 megs. Building a new rig, that's why I'm here. :)
    ^^^^ Wow, that was a while ago. :p

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  • Location
    Greensboro
  1. I've had both UPS and FedEx do the drop-and-run, especially on any package that they don't require a signature for. I had one not too long ago that I actually heard the truck pull into the driveway, and by the time I made it downstairs and to the door, he was already backing out of the driveway, package was on the porch, no knock, no doorbell.
  2. Last week, my EVGA 9800gtx+ died. Suddenly started artifacting out of nowhere, garbled text on the reboot... t'was ugly. I spoke with a tech support guy on the phone. Without the need to actually say so, he recognized my level of knowledge from how I described the problem, and we spoke a bit about what I had done to troubleshoot, and determined that it was, in fact, a hardware failure of some sort. Nice guy, knowledgeable about his product, and knew how to recognize the fact that he could use big words with the person on the other end of the phone. So, I went through their online RMA process. Very quick, and easy to take care of. It was approved the next day, and the email from them included a shipping label to send the card with. Since I get a large discount at FedEx, I overnighted the card to them. Got the email with the tracking number for the return shipment the same day they received it. Nice quick turnaround. UPS made 2 delivery attempts on days I wasn't home, left InfoNotices both times. Final attempt was to be yesterday. I stayed home all day to make sure that I would not miss it. Didn't even go out for lunch. Never saw a UPS driver. No new InfoNotice left, either. They, of course, claim that a delivery attempt was made, despite the fact that from where I was at the time they say that attempt was made, there is no way I would have missed either the doorbell, or a knock on the door, or just the sound of the truck in the driveway. I called them last night to find out what the deal was. They said it was scheduled to be returned to the shipper, and they would try to stop it. No luck on that, of course, they didn't catch it, and it's on its way back to California, with nothing anybody can do until it gets there. I talked to a person here at the local hub, who said they could talk to the driver and see if he remembers anything about my house/neighborhood/etc to see if he was really here, but that, of course, still doesn't get my machine back up and running again. EVGA to the rescue. Called their customer service / RMA department to see if there was anything that could be done. They called UPS, then called me back. Confirmed that there was nothing that could be done to stop the package from being returned at this point. Then they offered to ship me a new one, today, via 2-day air, at their expense. And that, folks, is how you keep a customer. :thumbs-up: I had heard that EVGA's customer service was top-notch. And now I can confirm that.
  3. Got my stuff in, working on getting everything set up, and I'm wondering, which sata controller should I use for a single drive? And does it even matter? Motherboard is a GA-EP45-UD3R, it has 6 ports on the Intel ICH10 controller, and 2 ports a Gigabyte controller. I read one thread here, about a year old, with a P35 board, where the person had to use the GSATA (Gigabyte SATA controller, the one with 2 ports) for a single drive to get the system to boot from the HDD. Any difference in performance one way or the other? What about down the road if (more like when) I go to a 2-drive RAID setup? Thanks for the input!
  4. Kaos

    Time To Loosen My Brand-loyalty?

    Just pulled the trigger. GIGABYTE GA-EP45-UD3R LGA 775 Intel P45 ATX Intel Motherboard Intel Core 2 Duo E8500 Wolfdale 3.16GHz LGA 775 65W Dual-Core Processor Model BX80570E8500 EVGA 512-P3-N873-AR GeForce 9800 GTX+ 512MB OCZ Platinum 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 1066 (PC2 8500) Dual Channel Kit Newegg had a combo for the mobo and cpu with an extra $15 discount, so I stepped it up to the 8500. B:)
  5. Excellent. I'll just monitor the temps as I start stepping up the speed.
  6. The Zalman is the cooler I'm using now with my current machine. So I'm just wondering if it'll be sufficient, and I can just continue using it on the new processor.
  7. Well, I came across a mobo/cpu combo deal at Newegg that persuaded me to step up to an E8500. So now, the question is, is my existing Zalman 9500 cooler: http://www.zalman.com/ENG/product/Product_Read.asp?idx=160 enough for that cpu? I'm sure it's not enough for a moderate-high overclock, but I'm hoping it'll be sufficient for at least a mild one. I spent a lot of time lapping it when I built my current rig, and I'd hate to give it up if I don't truly need to. hehe And yes, lapped, using AS-5, for that 3 degrees worth of difference.
  8. Kaos

    Time To Loosen My Brand-loyalty?

    Anybody else want to jump in on the AMD/Intel and Nvida/ATi question? I've been continuing my research, it seems that the E7300 will outperform the 6000+, but the 4850 and 9800gtx+ are pretty much neck-in-neck, with certain games doing better on one or the other, but generally pretty comparable performance. Also looks like if I went with the 4850, I'd have to put a decent cooler on it, vs. the 9800's are pretty much all double-slot vented out the back like they should be.
  9. Kaos

    Time To Loosen My Brand-loyalty?

    Yep. That's what I'm trying to do / determine. It seems the E7300 is definitely a good step up from the 5600+/6000+ for the extra money, from looking at a couple tests and reviews. 9800gtx+ vs. 4850 though, they seem a little tighter in competition. The one thing I've noticed is that the great majority of the 9800's have a cooler that blows the hot air out the back of the case, whereas all the 4850s are just the usual HSF that dumps right into the case. Dunno why that is. @Crazy_Nate: You've got me to thinking now.. one of the key reasons that I'm looking to make this upgrade quick is because this machine's been acting up lately, wierd stuff... individual apps crashing now and then, system crashes, or it just up and reboots itself out of the blue. I was thinking it might be getting caused by the fan controller, which I know has at least one bad switch on it that shorts when pressed (so I just don't press it, heh), but perhaps I ought to consider just changing the PSU also as part of a clean sweep.
  10. Kaos

    Time To Loosen My Brand-loyalty?

    So based on the two motherboards you've recommended, I'm guessing you're advocating Intel? Is it worth the extra $40 or so to make that step up? Regarding the 6-pin connectors on the PSU: I can't be entirely positive until I open the case and check, but it is an SLI certified PSU, so it *should* have two 6-pin PCI-e connectors, I would think. I'll have to check.
  11. So it's time to upgrade again. Current system specs are in my sig. I've always been an AMD / Nvidia guy, since my 486 (actually, the last ATi card I owned was in that machine, a VLB Graphics Pro Turbo, heh). At the times I've needed hardware, both have always been the best bang for the buck. Currently, however, it seems that the competition is getting tighter. So, I'm wondering, is it time to relax my brand-loyalty a little bit and look at Intel and/or ATi? Some detail, so that folks can give accurate recommendations: Just planning to upgrade CPU/MoBo/Video/Memory. Will upgrade PSU if necessary for new components, but hoping this one is still sufficient. Primary usage is gaming, 1680x1050 native res. on a 22" widescreen. Running dual monitors with a 19" crt secondary. Specific games I would like to be able to run smoothly: Crysis, FarCry 2, Mass Effect I also spend a significant amount of time in Lord of the Rings Online, which I play in windowed mode at full-screen resolution on the primary monitor, so that I can have easy access to a browser and Ventrilo on the secondary monitor. This game is not particularly demanding video-wise currently, but the upcoming Moria expansion may require a bit more oomph. Currently, I see very little difference in FPS running windowed vs. fullscreen mode. Going to stick to a dual core CPU on this go-around. So, budget-wise, it would appear that I'm looking at either a E7300 if I go the Intel route ($120ish), or a 5600+ or 6000+ ($85-95) if I stay with AMD. No idea on a motherboard. I think I'll just go with a single video card MB this time. Last time, I paid the extra for an SLI capable board, thinking that somewhere down the line, I'd just drop a matching video card in it for dirt cheap. However, by the time I found that I really needed it (basically, when Crysis was released), the particular card I chose was out of production and could no longer be found dirt cheap. Also with the fact that I had gone to dual monitors, SLI/Crossfire is much less appealing. I had briefly entertained the idea of keeping the current card as a dedicated card for the secondary monitor, but found out that the 7 and earlier series do not like to coexist in the same system with the 8 and later series cards, due to driver incompatibility. Realistically though, the only time I've got the secondary monitor active during gaming is when I'm in LotRO, which, like I said previously, is not a terribly demanding game anyway, and runs just fine, even on current hardware. I'd like to be in the $100-130 or so range on the motherboard. Video: Would like to stay in the sub-$200 range (and as far sub- as possible, without giving up too much performance.) So I guess it's down to a 9800gtx+ or a 4850. Both can be had in the $160-180 range. Another thing I'm wondering is whether CPU choice should affect GPU choice, or vice-versa. i.e. do particular brands of each work better together? Memory-wise, I'm sure I can come up with something, haven't really started looking too much yet, but that's easy enough to get info on from other threads. I just haven't seen a lot of threads regarding the choice between brands for CPU/GPU, usually people are getting recommendations between different models from one particular manufacturer. And an important question of course: Is my current 535w Enermax sufficient to power the new build? Lastly, OS... I really don't *want* to go to Vista, but... perhaps I should? Or would 64-bit XP be worth going to? Or just stick with the XP that I have now? Thanks in advance for any recommendations. My current rig was built with significant reliance on advice from the folks here, and I've been extremely happy with how it turned out. So it's time to do it all again!
  12. Kaos

    Opteron Or A64?

    Shoot. And here I've gone all this time thinking the Hokey Pokey was what it's all about... (sorry, couldn't resist)
  13. Kaos

    My New Memory

    I just bought the same ram for the same reason. Thanks for giving me some good target numbers.
  14. Kaos

    Where Do I Pick One Of These Babies Up?

    Ah, now there's a blast from the past. I can still remember when I picked up my first "big" drive. I needed something bigger for the file section on my BBS, as my two 40 meg drives just weren't cutting it anymore... Looked around, and found a 210 meg Seagate at an absolute steal of $595. Everybody else wanted almost 800 bux for that drive. Wow, what a deal! To put things in perspective, when that drive finally died, I picked up a 1.2 gig for around $150. Upgraded to a 6.4 gig some time later for around the same price. Next step was going to be a 20 gig for $109, but they were out of stock, so they subbed me a 30 gig for the same price. Finally, the 80 gig drive I'm running now I picked up 2 or 3 years ago at Best Buy's black friday sale for $75 bundled with a 256 meg stick of some cheap ram. I believe that was the same year I bought my GF4 Ti4200 for $99 after rebates. Just picked up the 200 gig for my new rig for $91. Ah, how times change...
  15. Kaos

    Hardrive Question.....what To Do With 2?

    General practice is not to mix hard drives and cd/dvd drives on the same cable. I've had lots of problems doing it, and ever since the advent of dual IDE controller motherboards (I think I just dated myself there...), there is no need to mix them. Put your two drives together on the primary, and your cd drive on the secondary. I'm sure there will be plenty of replies that say "I've done it with no problems", so YMMV.
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