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Everything posted by mrlithium

  1. /me offers some help with that too. Oh, and you can change LDT voltage to 1.3, or 1.4 that might help.
  2. prime will halt tests if it finds an error. the thing you have to watch out for is temps. If you watch it running for 10 minutes, the temp after 10 minutes is close to the temp it would be after a bunch of hours. so its safe to if you're convinced your cooling systems are reliable.
  3. Looks like you did not follow the crucial instructions properly number 1 big mistake which caused the boot problems i think is: memory voltage: 2.8v Go into the bios and set the DRAM voltage to 2.8v, then Change your 3-3-3-8 timings back to 3-4-4-8 like crucial says: TCL: 3 TRAS: 4 TRP: 4 TRC: 8 Change LDT/FSB ratio to 4x Change CPU Multiplier to 9x (important so you dont O/C your CPU) Change FSB to 240 (for now) and save and quit the bios then if you can get into windows at 240, raise the FSB by a few (like 2 mhz) at a time until you reach 250, and try again. With those settings, 240mhz FSB will almost for certain work, and 250mhz _should_ work.
  4. You can most likely set Trfc to 12. minor change Might want to change WR to 2. This equates to 1.599 volts on the CPU. Do you really need this much for your chip to run stable at 2.4ghz? seems too high to me. Also its safer to set CPU startup to "Startup" (i see you have it set to 1.500v), and I'd suggest keeping voltage at 1.55vcore and VID Special set to auto (so 0%) for a total of 1.55vcore. This is still pretty high and you might want to lower it if you're stable because it shortens chip life. Don't need chipset voltage to be 1.7, you can decrease it to 1.5. And LDT voltage doesnt necessarily need to be 1.3v, it can stay at 1.2v but 1.3's not hurting anything. Your ram voltage looks OK though as you're running at 240mhz with those chips.
  5. he never said he did it with the power on
  6. stepping are the codes after the model number. Theres a 5 letter code and then a 4 digit week code which says what year and week the chip was produced. Usually the early weeks are the best. If you buy it from Newegg you have no way of telling until you get it. Each stepping is a batch and varies slightly, from batch to batch. Best steppings for OC'ing in order: 1. CABNE 05xx (excluding 0540) 2. CABYE 0540 3, CABNE 0540 / CABYE 05xx (excluding 0540) 4. CAB2E 05xx 5. CABGE 05xx my opinion would be to get the opteron 148 from newegg, even if you dont know the stepping.
  7. i just got my Lanparty today, and speedfan shows -9.40v on the -12v line and I have an antec truepower 2 -550watt power supply which seems pretty good to me. So i think its just somthing with speedfan.
  8. Im using a Venice 3200 LBBLE 0540 GPAW. Its a bad overclocker. I can do 2350 mhz on stock voltage (235 * 10 or 260*9). Once it passes 2352 mhz prime95 will have errors due to the CPU... its like an on/off switch, 2340 or 2350 works, 2352 errors.... Now i am running patriot pc4800 and have successfully gotten it to 280something at 2.5-4-4-8 but never reached the advertised DDR600 speeds, but the RAM is not holding me back. Right now my config is 10 x 235 @ 1.400v at 1:1 with 2-3-3-6 ram. And thats where it shall stay until I upgrade my processor. If you have an opteron 144 for like $160somethin I wanna buy it Im gonna up the chipset voltage to 1.6 and CPU to 1.55 and see if it does any better now. (gonna use ram at 2.5-3-3-7 on 2.7v to test)
  9. I'm selling a : Patriot 1GB (2x 512mb) Dual Channel Kit, Low Latency: PC 3200 DDR400 2,3,2,5 Stock settings are 200mhz @ 2-3-2-5 (my best OC was 217 at these timings) At 2.5-3-3-5, I can run them at 230mhz At 250mhz I can run them at 3-4-4-8 (maybe a little quicker) Uses Infineon RAM Chips so I am told. Retails for 119 on newegg. Asking price is 100 + shipping. I'm Buying a: 480+ Watt Power supply, thats from the certified List. Some good models would be antec truepower, fortron bluestorm, ocz modstream. I'm looking for anything that is supported basically. My price range is $50-80 Have confirmed paypal.
  10. I was wondering when you guys would get an IRC channel. Its really great when you just need a quick answer and theres one of those super guru's on. I'll be in there, I probably will be talking a lot, asking a lot of stuff.
  11. Im starting to see now why Lanparty is better ! The bios for this Infinity is totally different. And I did some reading, and found out that the board has sensor problems, so its not just me. And I encountered a strange problem which Im unable to fix right now after changing some stuff..... The bios settings are set for 280 * 9 multiplier at 1:1 memory clock and it actually displays 2520 mhz in the bios screen. So for some reason it boots into windows fine, however when I look at my CPU speed in sandra, it reads as 1800 mhz !! this would be 200 * 9 (like the FSB somehow got set to 200 even though bios reads 280) and so the system is stable at that speed, but when I click "Get values" in clockgen the system locks up. Understandably, because its probably getting conflicting or garbage values. I will fix it on my own probably by changing back to 10x multiplier but thats just some abnormal stuff right there. I had a question about Tref too. Infinity bios displays it as 200mhz 3.9us, etc etc... How is this relate to the numerical Tref value on a Lanparty. I might just have to get a Lanparty.
  12. Im running with my Infinity board right now. I've had the board in for about 30 minutes and my FSB is up to 240mhz * 10. One thing though. The Smartguardian program doesn't run on Windows x64. Another thing. The MBM5 datafiles aren't for the Infinity board. What are my other options for viewing voltages ? Temps I dont really care about but would be nice. I dont wanna go back to Windows 32 bit cause I dont own a product key for that and can't activate! Also I had a question about setting the voltages on the Genie Bios page. I understand the "Fixed CPU voltage" part but I dont get the part about "on the fly voltage" above it "voltage offset increment" and "Extra voltage" (0.0,0.1,0.2,0.3) or something like that. Also the BIOS CPU voltage shows as 1.37 when I set "by VID" which is 0.03 lower. When I set fixed voltage to 1.45 though and reboot it only reads as 1.40. Would this discrepancy cause problems ? My 12V line is also reading low. 11.87ish. I noticed my Infinity doesn't have a floppy-port to feed it additional voltage like the Lanparty does. Does anyone know to what component the floppy-port feeds power to on the Lanparty? Also, I installed my RAM in the BLACK slots(closest to CPU). I heard on the Lanparty that changing RAM slot colors has an effect. My double-sided double-heatspreader RAM is generating a lot of heat thats why I put it closer to the CPU fan. I really wish they staggered the channels, so there could be SOME airflow on the inside between the sticks, cause right now theres only airflow around the outsides of the sticks.
  13. I have 10 multipliers, so are you saying the Infinity can only reach 240 at 1:1 ? My asus does better than that. For sure I can push 2.6 through a 2.0ghz chip? The Asus and the 1.8ghz chip can do 2.5ghz. Is the limitation in the actual hardware or through the memory settings in the bios. Cause I dont _have_ to run at 1:1 memory I can always go down to 5:6 I think and run on 2-3-3-5, or even lower I dont care. I just really wanted to get to 2.8ghz. 2.7 would be acceptable too I guess. Well just waiting for tonight so I can try it out, if its not to my liking i'll just sell it on ebay and pick up the Lanparty Thanks for the responses.
  14. Well I think some misread my sig, so I edited it. The first Asus setup was my old one, and I ordered a DFI board to replace it. At first I bought the asus for stability but then found out how much fun overclocking is so I ditched it and went DFI. The reason I didnt get a Lanparty is because I didnt see any features on it that made it better for my needs. I just assumed the Infinity overclocks just as well and I didnt need SATA2 or SLI. My DFI Infinity board came by Fedex today, and the Venice 3200+ also. The Venice is a 3200DAA4BP Week 0540 GPAW. I'm gonna install the venice in my Asus first, test its abilities, then wait till my unsupported/uncertified 550-watt comes in the mail later today so I can try it with my DFI. Also I never heard of SVC until now (googled it, turns out they rock) Im gonna order a Thermalright today. Also I really have no money, I have tons of bills, and I only make $170 a week. Sorta why I got the baby DFI board and the cheap power supply.
  15. Hi, I'm new to these forums. I made a signature, and you can read the config for my new box that I just ordered. I'm going to be using the system for experiments with overclocking mostly, my question is, about the Rosewill 550-W power supply Link to newegg It has 18A + 18A on the 12 V rails, I wanted to know if that would equal out to 36A of a single rail system (i have a feeling its a more complicated calculation). I just want to make sure I have enough amps, since this PS wasn't on the list of recommended ones but I analyzed it carefully before buying. On my current system, my power is lacking (22A on 12V) and I think it is limiting my overclocks even when I'm using dividers, because the system will boot windows all the way up to 2600+mhz but then BSOD's with a new error each time or just freezes. Its a kind of unpredictable experience. With the new DDR 600 ram, the RAM should allow me to reach 300 FSB, and the my venice has a 10 multiplier, so I could O/C anywhere up to 3000mhz depending on the quality of the Venice. I'd be thrilled if I could get it past 2800 mhz, is it common for a Venice 3200 to reach 2800mhz with just a Zalman cooling it ? I'll most likely be posting back here tomorrow or the next day when my system arrives. BTW Zipzoomfly has really great deals and free shipping, I picked up the DFI Infinity, Venice 3200, and Patriot PC4800 for only $424! If anyones interesting in my old board/chip/ram send me a PM If anyone has any tips before I even start building, I'd love to hear it. Thanks, btw, Im a big fan already of your forums
  16. Well let me start of with a rundown of my components: Asus a8n-sli deluxe 2x512mb Patriot PC3200 Low latency Kit (2,3,2,5) Venice 3000 E6 (i dunno the step numbers cause I dont feel like removing my heatsink) Well, after many DAYS of fighting with this Asus BIOS i finally found my fastest stable setting: HTT 278 * 9 multiplier = 2502 mhz (clockgen shows as 278.52 / 2506.64) Memory: Divided at DDR333, CAS 2.5,3,3,5 (clockgen shows 227.88) CPU running at 1.45 V Memory running at AUTO because this ram is rated at 2.5V and the Asus BIOS only allows you to set from 2.60 to 3.00 not any lower Now some things worth notiing: -Windows is stable above HTT 278 up until 282 but at 282*9 but prime95 fails within 30 seconds -I'm Running at 1T command rate, 2T drops my sandra mem bench by over 1000 so I dont want that -changing from CAS 2.5 to 3.0 doesnt seem to help So my question is really about voltages. Will higher CPU voltage take me past This instability, or is the instability coming from my ram? Also since I can boot windows at 282, I can run A64tweaker, but I don't know what any of those settings over on the right column mean. They seem pretty important though. I tested my 278 for 7.5 hours overnight on prime 95 blend, this is how I know its stable. I had Winamp playing mp3's at the same time. One problem, I am able to reproduce BSOD's by running 1 particular program, called MP3DirectCut. It uses approx 5% CPU while playing an mp3 and within 1-5 minutes my system will always BSOD with a different error message, one i remember offhand is "SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION" This program works fine at Stock clock speeds, and the system is completely and 100% utterly rock solid except for this one program even when I open about 15 programs at once, and try to stress the chipset by transferring stuff over my LAN at the same time. Since winamp works I dont think its the sound card thats causing BSOD's so it could be the CPU or the chipset or really I dont know... all i know that it is reproducible in only this 1 program. Anyway running that program isnt really important to me, I just thought it might be an indicator of something.
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