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About Nadger

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  • Birthday 04/19/1983


  • Xfire
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  • Computer Specs
    i7 3770k Ivy Bridge Cpu
    ASUS Z77 Sabertooth Motherboard
    Geforce GTX 680 (Zotac)
    16gb Corsair Vengeance LP 1600 RAM
    Corsair Force3 GT 60gb SSD (SSD Cache)
    Western Digital 1TB Caviar Black HDD (Raided With SSD to Cache)
    Corsair H100 Closed Loop Watercooler
    Noctua NF F12 FocusFlow Fans on H100
    ASUS Xonar DX 7.1 Soundcard
    Corsair AX 750 Gold PSU w/ White cables
    Corsair 600T SE White Case
    LG Lightscribe Bluray Multi Drive
    26" Doublesight 263n S-IPS Monitor
    Noppoo Choc Mini Mech Keyboard
    Razer Naga & Deathadder Mice
    Altec Lansing 5.1 Surround Sound System
  1. The 680 is amazing, powerful, quiet, low watts, nice new features, scales very well, utilizes low power demand games by OCing itself til it meets its maxium power budget. If you really want to know everything there is to know about it, id suggest this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ER3nv7NTwbs Extremely in depth look at the 680.
  2. Haha, thanks everyone for the compliments! I did go for parts i thought would mesh well together aesthetically, while not skimping on performance/quality. I would have liked to find a 680 that went better for the system but one does not simply turn down an in stock 680 on Newegg just because its not the right color. If http://store.valvesoftware.com/product.php?i=STKT03T ever gets back on stock I think I may buy it and slap it on the white part of the case side towards the front, but I'm not sure if it will ruin the clean vibe. I may also end up replacing the rear exhaust fan with something that looks nicer. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233093 comes to mind but its not been met with very good reviews. The last thing i may end up doing is changing out the side panel to one like this: If i remember right there is a guy who will do it for you for a fee, though shouldnt be too difficult with a dremel. I've been tempted to put a white led fan or led strip tucked away at the rear of the case because in the dark you cant see inside very well, but then again, I'm not big on LEDs as I've gotten older. If i feel like wasting some money and time I may go with the Corsair Commander with a lighting kit and tune it to only turn on the lights under load, or something to that effect. I played with OCing it a bit, got it to 4.6 with short term stability tests, though id realistically probably back down to 4.3-4.5 to keep the heat low. Ivy hates much more than 1.3volts. But even stock it destroys any game i throw at is on max atm, so maybe I'll hold off on the OC until it starts showing signs of a CPU bottleneck. Anyway I've thought out loud enough, I'll leave you with some older pictures of the what the rig is connected to. Since then ive added a small 17" secondary monitor i had laying around, Id like to flank the 26" with 2 24" monitors but that is probably just overkill =P I've also changed out the keycaps on the keyboard to some group buy custom request order keycaps that happen over at geekhack. Thanks again for appreciating my build! Means a lot to hear it from other people who get it. I posted it on facebook and even my relatives and non geeky friends were impressed by it but didn't understand the point of it...THIS IS A HOT-ROD FOR NERDS, LEAVE ME ALONE GRANDMA.
  3. I recently built my new rig. Thought i would share it here. i7 3770k Ivy Bridge Cpu (no OC yet) ASUS Z77 Sabertooth Motherboard Geforce GTX 680 (Zotac) 16gb Corsair Vengeance LP 1600 RAM Corsair Force3 GT 60gb SSD (SSD Cache) Western Digital 1TB Caviar Black HDD (Raided With SSD to Cache) Corsair H100 Closed Loop Watercooler Noctua NF F12 FocusFlow Fans on H100 ASUS Xonar DX 7.1 Soundcard Corsair AX 750 Gold PSU w/ White cables Corsair 600T SE White Case LG Lightscribe Bluray Multi Drive 26" Doublesight 263n S-IPS Monitor Noppoo Choc Mini Mech Keyboard Razer Naga & Deathadder Mice Altec Lansing 5.1 Surround Sound System All fans attached to motherboard, fan controlled through ASUS FanXpert 2/Thermal Radar software, set on temp curve. Basically this thing is dead quiet while no stress is on the system. Even under full load you can barely hear it. Dual Sound card setup with xonar and onboard, front panel audio connected to Xonar, Speakers connected to onboard sound. FPS games I run virtualized 7.1 surround through the Xonar to echo locate, Vent also through headset, everything else through speaker system. It all went together perfectly, and fired up without a hitch. Definitely the best looking rig I've ever built. Had to share it with other people who may appreciate it! Please let me know what you think, or if you have any suggestions.
  4. Okay this has to be some sort of grounding issue, but im not sure where to begin. After a lot of troubleshooting why my computer would turn on, and reboot right after/in the middle of post, then reboot over and over, I now know the exact cause. Unless at least 1 of my 2 front USB ports are connected to my motherboard the computer will not boot. I can literally just plug it in, and it works fine. Unplug it and it will no longer boot. Any ideas on where to start? The reason i don't want my front USB ports hooked up is they cause a lot of audio feedback noise through my mic while in teamspeak/mumble/vent. I have not yet tried just taking the whole thing apart and putting it back together, was hoping someone might have a suggestion. Thanks
  5. So the last time I Overclocked was an AMD K6-2 from 350 mhz to 400. Im bottlenecking on my CPU atm with my current build and id like to push the processor just a little more. Heres my specs: CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 Wolfdale 3.0GHz 6MB L2 Cache CPU Cooler: Zalman CNPS9700 LED Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-X48-DS4 Intel X48 RAM: G.Skill 4gb (2x 2gb) DDR2 1066 Case: Aerocool ExtremeEngine 3T PSU: Seasonic M12 700W Video Card: XFX 5850 Radeon HD 1GB I built this this to OC a little over 2 years ago but never felt the need to OC since it ran everything fine. Recently I bought a new video card cause my old one died. Now im starting to notice the CPU bottlenecking it. What are some good settings to start at? I dont want an aggressive OC just something light for now. maybe 3.5ghz. Should I be OCing the bus speed, or the multiplier or both? Do i need to worry about the voltage to the CPU, what setting should it be at? Do i need to OC the ram too? Im clueless here so if you could help me get started that would be great.
  6. Yeah my only fear with steam is if 15 years from now I want to go back and play the copy of Dawn of War II i bought on steam, i wont be able to. Where as if i have a retail copy I can always install it again and punch in the cd key and put in the dvd to play. I fear that if valve somehow dies out my entire steam library of games will die with it. Some steam games let you right click on them and "view cd key" so at least that way I can retrieve my key and maybe use it to play again way down the road if steam is dead. However many dont have the view cd key option. Has Valve actually made any official statement on future proofing steam?
  7. Now days I try to buy all my games on steam so i never have to find the DVD and insert it in the drive to play. Thats too console like, and I am much to lazy for that. However sometimes i buy games from gogamer.com because their 48 hour madness deals are always really good prices. So with the games I buy from them, I am stuck looking for the DVD to put it in my drive so i can launch the game. Though recently Ive started finding cracks for these games(very carefully, lots of viruses pose as cracks) even though I own a legal copy. I was just wondering if anyone else does this, and what your thoughts are on the matter. Do you find it morally objectionable, or what is your stance of the ethics of it. Also what are your general thoughts on the whole matter? I personally find it quite ironic have to use pirate methods to get around something thats designed to stop pirates, when I actually own legal copies of the games... Your thoughts?
  8. Nice, glad it worked for you too. Happy Holidays. I sent a bug report to nvidia about the issue and how to fix it so hopefully their future drivers will eventually not have this problem. Suppose i ought to send it to Doublesight too so they can use it as a work around until nvidia gets it fixed.
  9. I managed to fix the problem with a registry edit....i found this info scattered across a few diff sites so i will post a customized version (for the DS-263n) here for reference. Regedit Method: 1. Open Regedit by going to Start->Run and typing regedit and clicking OK. 2. By clicking the proper + signs (arrow symbols in Vista) and expanding the "folders", navigate to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Video\ You should see several folders that look something like {6FAC39BF-E40A-49C7-AD93-62C3132BEB5C}. This string of numbers and letters is called a GUID. You need to open each one of those GUIDs and look for the one that contains subfolders "0000" and "0001" which in turn contain the subfolders "Display", "Settings", "Uninstall", and "VolatileSettings". The GUID containing all these folders is the current GUID. This is random for every machine so this is why you have to find it yourself. 3. Under the current GUID, right click the "0000" folder and select "Copy Key Name". (We don't need to worry about the "0001" folder as it is just a mirror of the "0000" folder). 4. Open Notepad and paste the key you just copied. Put square brackets around it and insert a line at the very top that says REGEDIT4. 5. Add a line at the bottom and copy and paste the following text into it. "OverrideEdidFlags0"=hex:0E,0C,8D,88,00,00,FF,FF,04,00,00,00,7E,01,00,0E,0C,8D,88 NOTE The first 4 bytes (0E,0C,8D,88) in my OverrideEdidFlags0 are specific to this monitor. For other monitors with this problem, you will need to replace them. Using Phoenix EDID Designer, run it, go to tools, click extract registery edid. Then go to tools again and hit byte viewer. The bytes are in byte 8 through 11. (the line of numbers across the top) I would suggest doing this to verify that the numbers match up for you all also. 6. It should look something like this (the only difference would be your GUID as that is custom to your computer, and the first 4 set of the hex if you have a monitor thats not the DS-263N) REGEDIT4 [HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Video\{6FAC39BF-E40A-49C7-AD93-62C3132BEB5C}\0000] "OverrideEdidFlags0"=hex:0E,0C,8D,88,00,00,FF,FF,04,00,00,00,7E,01,00,0E,0C,8D,88 7. Go to File-Save As, change Save As Type to "All Files", and name the file OverrideEDIDFlags.reg (the name isn't important but the .reg extension is) and save it to your Documents or Desktop. 8. Double click the OverrideEDIDFlags.reg file you just created and say Yes to add it to the registry. 9. Restart. You should now have a properly functioning full resolution monitor, with no overscan, incorrect modes, interlacing or other bullcrap the NVIDIA drivers try to do when it thinks it's hooked up to an HDTV instead of a monitor
  10. Ugh, its a shame too cause its a very nice monitor. I would appreciate you keeping me updated on how your quest for a fix goes. Something to note: when i made my own monitor profile using powerstrip, then told it to use it, i was able to switch to 1920x1200 but the screen was all jittery and there were some artifacts so i must not have set up all the timings correctly. But if that is the case perhaps a correctly set up custom monitor .inf could fix the issue. I just dont know enough about monitors and INFs and timings etc to do it myself. I wonder if the DS-265W(the new version of our monitor) has the same issue I did find a post on the nvidia forums about it...too bad they have been down for like a week. But here is the cashed version:
  11. Yeah, It could be. I will be buying windows 7 soon, guess i can try again after ive reformatted with windows 7 retail. Does it require a clean install? If so then ill probably just use 186 until i buy retail. Yeah every forum i find with people who have my exact same problem all have larger monitors...26" 28" etc, a bit more uncommon of monitors. So im thinking theres a bug in the recent nvidia drivers that causes them to be treated like a TV or does not read the EDID from the monitor itself correctly. Even when i install power strip and go to monitor options and tell it to get the info from the monitor or EDID it says it cannot communicate with the monitor through the display adapter. Yet when i install driver version 186 and do the same thing in power strip it gets the data just fine. I was going to hook a different monitor up to it and see if it worked then, but im getting tried of messing with it 186 drivers will work just fine for now. To top it all off the official nvidia forums have been down for the last several days. Im pretty convinced its the drivers hating my monitor now with everything ive tried. Thank you all again for your help.
  12. I just went through all of that step by step and still i cant get it to detect the resolutions my monitor is capable of. Currently running at 1920x1080 after i added the resolution in nvidia control panel. Rivatuner wont install correctly cause windows 7 beta build 7100 does not allow unsigned drivers. Which blocks rivatuner64.sys And yeah i have the version they just released installed right now after a full and complete diver purge and it still does not detect my monitors capabilities.
  13. I have done that...I think the new nvidia drivers do not like my monitor It is a Doublesight 26" (DS-263N) It also identifys my monitor as a non plug and play generic monitor after i install the new drivers. I can give it the exact monitor drivers afterwards but it does not help. nvidia control panel. No i have not tried riva tuner yet. But it should be reading the resolutions from the monitor, i shouldnt have to manually add any.
  14. EDIT: I found a solution to this problem, check my post on page 2 for the fix. I am currently forced to run nvidia driver version 186. If I install 191 or 195 it kicks my monitor resolution from 1920x1200 down to 1024x768 and it wont let me turn it any higher. I read something about the newer nvidia drivers detect what your monitor can do differently and does not use the EDID programmed into your monitor, so you have to override it somehow but that sounds stupid. I have tried the Windows Update version of the nvidia drivers and those do not work either. I uninstalled and told it to delete the drivers it was using, then rebooted into safe mode and running both driver sweeper and driver cleaner and telling them to clear out all nvidia drivers, unplugging the computer from the internet, rebooting back into windows 7 normal with a standard vga driver (running at 1920x1200) then installing the latest drivers again that way. During the setup, the monitor goes black for a second like it always does when you update, but when it comes back on its at 1024x768. It then finishes its install, i reboot and its still at 1024x768. If i try to turn the resolution higher, it will, but only to 1280x768 or something like that. If i go into the nvidia control panel i can add a custom resolution of 1920x1080 and that will work but 1920x1200 fails the test. So I uninstalled all the drivers again and cleaned them all out, and reinstalled the 186 drivers and everything works fine again. what the heck is going on? Does it think my monitor is a TV? How do i fix this?
  15. Yeah its unable to load lots of drivers...your ATI video card drivers seem to be a bad one... it is trying over and over and over again until it gives up. I would download driver sweeper from: http://www.guru3d.com/category/driversweeper/ run it and let it clean out your ati drivers. Then download new ones and install those. I would also redownload your chipset drivers, sound drivers etc...get everything again and reinstall them. If that does not work...im not sure whats going on. I would try a vista repair first, then if that does not work...It would probably be easier just to back stuff up and format the drive and reinstall vista. Most times thats a much faster, safer, and cleaner way to fix problems like these then trying to fix every individual issue. Edit: couldnt hurt to update your bios as well.. Older bios might be having issues with some of your newer hardware.
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