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About Wellcomef3-a

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    All things Computers, Cycling, The Great Outdoors, Travel, Music.
  1. Hi there everyone, it's been a while since I posted due to numerous reasons...however forget that nonsense what I would like to know is if there is anyone out there with an EVGA HC-18 waterblock who is possibly stepping up to the GTX 260/280 series. The block must be in good condition, and preferably from the UK so I can avoid import duties and VAT, etc.... Let me know by PM and well come to some arrangement. Thanks all for your attention. Regards, Peter.
  2. Hey ReelFiles, allow me to clear up a little misunderstanding if I may - simply that I was not referring to your machine when I mentioned "ghetto rig" in my post - your rig is far from ghetto! It's my rig that I was referring to. Anyway, thats by the by. I tried mounting the SP-97 to the LP-B Ultra using the neo backplate and it simply wasn't having it! Firstly, the northbridge NB-1 cooler was obstructing it and more importantly there are several 25mm high capacitors which prevent a proper and safe mounting of the SP-97. I dare say that it would be possible to mount it however you would have to bend all capacitors at least 30 degrees away from the cooler to achieve this. It's something I was not prepared to attempt. So I came up with a temporary solution and fixed a stock AMD cooler to the cpu. This will give me a little time to fix up my phase change insulation. So, pics will soon follow.... Here are some pics showing the board fully micro-cool sinked and my garage ghetto rig set up: http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm9/Wel.../sinkedmobo.jpg http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm9/Wel...hettorig2-1.jpg http://i292.photobucket.com/albums/mm9/Wel...a/ghettorig.jpg
  3. Thats a good idea ^^ , I will take a picture of my ghetto rig as it is set up in the garage. Its mid-April and still feels like a freezer in there, a great help with the air cooling. :cool: Just got to mount the SP-97 first then I'll get snapping.
  4. Hey guys, I have just built a system around my LP-B Ultra and will eventually be using phase to cool the cpu. In time I hope to add water cooling for the gpu and NB. I have fully sinked the board using microcool heatsinks and my plan is to test and see what this board can do beginning with air cooling and a Thermalright SP-97/92mm Tornado with a Thermalright NB-1 and a Zalman VF-700 Cu on a Geforce 6800 Ultra. My biggest problem is finding the time to do it all especially as I'm also on with an upgrade to my existing rig (in my sig) to a NF4 DFI Expert/Opteron platform. There's plenty of life left in the NFII LP-B's, all it takes is an enthusiast and mutual support from a forum such as this. Watch this space.....
  5. C-Media is something which you most probably downloaded and installed from a Microsoft Update, you do not need it and should uninstall it asap. For NFII audio just use the nVidia nforce_audio_4.62 installation package. You will need to install the nVidia NVMixer application as well. You do not need the Realtek driver/application, all this will do is add to the already bloated OS. You will then find you have less conflict going on - the fewer drivers/applications the better. For the M-Audio soundcards, have you enabled/disabled them, to suit your particular set-up, in Device Manager? I do not know if you can have 2 soundcards working side by side at the same time but i do know that XP supports multi sound card set up - you just have to enable/disable them in Device Manager as and when you need them. I hope this helps a little.
  6. Yes, I created the new account some weeks ago. I was not allowed to change my username whilst keeping my old account because it would have created too much administrative work for staff. So my previous account was frozen instead of being deleted - again because deleting the account creates unnecessary work for admin staff. It's all legit and above board, Angry_Games dealt with it personally.
  7. Hey Sharp, I'm no stranger to DIY Street - my post count went back to 0 after I changed my user-name recently. Whereabouts are you from in the UK?
  8. Hey guys, thanks for the replies and confirming your original answers. I think we can now mark this thread as "resolved".
  9. Hi radodrill, I have seen and read the post by ExRoadie describing the proper Clear CMOS recovery from a "no boot" condition and it was this post that prompted me to ask the question about removing the battery. Apparently this procedure is not to be confused with a normal CMOS Clear and so I am still confused about what I should do. Can it also apply to a normal CMOS Clear is what I would like to know. The following link describes the 'official' DFI Clear CMOS procedure and yet it does not mention Not removing the battery. http://www.diy-street.com/forum/showpost.p...964&postcount=4 So can anyone confirm the correct method to use with the Expert? Hi Sharp, according to Shinobi's post about ACPI & HAL's Explained both the HAL configurations you listed above apply to multiple processor motherboards and which the Expert is not. Should I not use the Advanced Configuration and Power Interface (ACPI) PC which applies to a single processor motherboard with single processor? Like I did with the NFII? Or do the above HALs work just fine? If I swap the processor for a dual-core model will I have to do a clean install to change the HAL to ACPI Multiprocessor? I know from the NFII days that it is quite difficult to change the HAL in Device Manager and that it doesn't always succeed. Is there not one that will do for both single core and dual core processors? My XP CD does contain SP2 BTW. I'm glad there are no issues with the IDE drivers, if I had a SATA DVD drive then I wouldn't need to install the IDE drivers at all. What is your opinion on using MS default IDE driver instead of the latest nVidia offering? Purely to keep the install as lean as possible.
  10. Hi All, I'll soon have my NF4 Expert up and running but I have several questions to put to previous owners of this board so that I can get things right from the start. (i) are there any issues regarding ACPI and HAL's with this board and which ACPI should I use on a clean install? (I'll be using a single core Opty to begin with). (ii) when clearing the CMOS after flashing, do you need to remove the battery as standard procedure? (iii) which drivers should I use and are there any issues with the IDE drivers in the above ^^^^ package? (iv) is there a particular BIOS that favours different memory? For example which BIOS would suit GSkill PC4000 RAM? And Corsair BH5 RAM? Thanks for any help!
  11. Why don't you look into the Corsair range of psus? I believe they are very good and solid performers and represent great value for money.
  12. It's inadvisable to mess around with this setting, I would use it only if I was sure of the consequences. It can cause you nasty problems and especially if you set it to Realtime. I repeat: DO NOT set it to Realtime for any process whatsoever. It can lock up your system so tightly that you won't be able to get back in!
  13. For your OS I would definately recommend Ghost, once you have created your Ghost image file it can be re-used time and time again to restore your OS to it's original state. From my experience I would use Ghost just for the OS, it takes about 15 minutes to restore the current OS image file I created of my system partition, that's why for files and data I would suggest a RAID 1 configuration (also known as mirroring). You would just set it up and leave it, the RAID 1 controller takes care of all the work, and you get an exact copy of your data automatically written to the 2nd hdd in your RAID 1 array. So then if one of those hdds fails it's OK because you've got an exact copy of it. For best results it is recommended you use identical hdds in your RAID 1 configuration. Your mobo must also support RAID 1, either that or use a RAID 1 controller card in a spare PCI slot. For all round protection/peace of mind I suggest using both. I originally intended to do this on my rig, that's why I bought 2 identical SATA hdds (look in my sig.)
  14. You can copy the file over from the old computer to the new one BUT if you have changed or upgraded four or more components out of a list of ten on your computer in a period of 120 days or less it will not work, you will just trigger the activation code. So that means if you're trying to re-install the same copy of Windows onto a different computer altogether it will sus out what you're up to and refuse to run! And it's changes from the original activation/last install.
  15. Just to be sure you will be able to reboot after editing the Boot.ini file there is a button you can press in the System Configuration Utility, it's on the Boot.ini tab. It's labelled: "Check all boot paths". Simply click on it and it will tell you if your Boot.ini path is correct.
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