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fastvfr

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Everything posted by fastvfr

  1. Pfeh....it'll work just fine, if you use the proper paint. This does not flake unless you screw up and apply it in overly-thick coats. Make five or six very light coats of Flat Black happen and it'll last for a long time. And it is very easily repainted should it get scratched. But before you do your laptop, please, answer me this: With the Sony Viao being the biggest POS as well as the most-oft-repaired PC on the planet, why would you want people to think you own one? Theft deterrence, perhaps? Okay...whatever....but the Fusion works great. I used several cans last month painting up old CRT housings and other plastic parts. Even an old keyboard or mouse looks great when properly touched up by the right Rattlecan.
  2. 1600 grit is a minimum; otherwise all the tiny scratches add up and result in the decrease of the amount of surface area in the interface and make the cooler perform even less efficiently than it would have without the lap job!! I use 600 grit wet/dry to clean the surfaces, then 1600 paper to smooth things out. Then, when things start getting shiny, I finish by gently rubbing the parts on a glass tile that has been lightly coated with 2000 grit jeweler's rouge. That stuff puts an unbelieveably good mirror finish on the interfaces though, sorry to say, doesn't drop temps by more than 1C at most. The only time I will do this anymore is when a needed cooler has been scraped, scratched or dinged. How will you be securing the K6 heatsink? You'll probably want to tighten the spring that was holding the NB HS down if you plan on using that. Honestly, your best bet for optimum chipset cooling is to just remove the foam TIM and remount the original HS to the chip with Ceramique and its spring--then install a Zalman CNPS7700-Cu CPU cooler. The 120mm fan's flowthrough will do a terrific job of cooling everything from the RAM to the MOSFETs...it will turn a passive NB cooler into an active one with no extra moving parts. How cool is THAT? Good luck! PS. I use Asus's PC Probe or MBM5 to see how warm the various components are getting. They both work very well.
  3. What Kobalt said goes double for me. The only way te upgrade an OEM is to replace it.
  4. You'll be fine on the length. BTW, I have the 480w True in my sig rig, and it has oodles of Molexes as well as the two Fan Only plugs. I haven't used all of my Molexes even though I have no SATA drives...just IDE drives at the moment. The 480w comes with two (or four) SATA power plugs, too. Looks like a pretty good case...for a non-Tt, that is! Good luck with it.
  5. Try setting VSync to "ON" in the ATI CP.
  6. That is far too hot, IMHO. Buy some Arctic Silver Ceramique, clean the interface well with alcohol, and reseat that cooler PRONTO!! You may want to hedge your bets with a better cooler while you're at it. I have the Zalman CNPS7700-Cu on my proc. My 3GHz Scotty idles at 28C and maxes out at 42C, if that tells you anything... Good luck.
  7. Well, O/C you need to sand all the imperfections out of the case; then prime-sand-prime. The primer sticks well to just about anything, and then the paint sticks to it. After that, you should paint in light coats with a gentle buffing with 600 grit wet/dry on a sanding block between each coat. Save the 1600 to 2000 grit for use between the last few clearcoats - and remember, it is the clearcoat job that makes all the difference. Gives your case depth and gloss. The inside of the case? Just hit it with the rattlecan and let it dry. There will be no problems there, since the inside is not exposed to the bumps and dings the outside is. Have fun, take your time, and enjoy it for years to come!
  8. With 2x512MB in one channel and 2x256MB in the other, your rig will fly. Mine is awesome with 'just' two 512MB DIMMs installed--you'd have 50% more RAM and that should lessen paging file usage by an appreciative amount. The best plan for good OCs would be with the low latency RAM set, though...games hardly ever use more than 1GB of decent RAM anyway, so that would provide the biggest possible boost. But, if you can find a twin of that 512MB stick you already have, that'll be impressive too!
  9. I have seen folks have some luck with the use of a short single strand of wire, like that from a speaker, bent like a staple to do this. I have also seen motherboards ruined this way when the wrong holes get bridged! A better, though trickier, way to go is to wrap a couple of turns of that thin copper wire around the appropriate pins. This takes some dexterity, though, so don't rush it. Good luck.
  10. Tt PSU's are just rebranded SuperFlowers...and are not really known for their heavyweight performance, let's just put it that way... Reinstall Firefox if you haven't already...or look to a custom install of Moz Suite for a browser. The Antec series is my first choice; I run a 480w True Power inmy rig, though the 550w is very good as well. Enermax is also a strong performer. You can't go wrong with either, IMHO. Good luck!!
  11. Raising the AGP volts can actually cause chipset INSTABILITY and could even cause serious damage to that 6800. Just some of the reasons why I never do it. Besides, the card gets most of its juice through the Molex plug anyway, so the AGP slot voltage should be right at 1.5v. There is no voltage bottleneck to the card as long as the Molex that is plugged into the vid card is not being overtaxed by other components. Or unless the PSU is weak, of course.
  12. What MOBO are you using? If it is a P4 system, you could just match that 512MB stick and run all four DIMMs in DC!! See, 512MB is not enough for smooth performance in games. You'll need at least 1GB, so give some thought to investing in a new Matched Pair of good DDR400... That's if you can't find another 512MB like the one you have, O/C... Good luck, and glad to hear you are making progress!
  13. I'd grab one older one (66.81 is very nice) and one newer one, then a Beta 70.xx series driver for good measure. Remember to run Driver Cleaner in Safe Mode between driver installs so there are fewer possible conflicts. GL
  14. The UPS is not an optional component, IMHO. When you spend $2000 on electronics, investing in a $40-$100 UPS is the cheapest insurance you will ever buy. Most of my trouble-free clients run one, and not one of their PC's have been able to fry anything since. Draw your own conclusions, bretheren...
  15. Looks good. Glad to see you have the sense to buy a proper PSU! So many people use a generic 400w POS with a $1500 machine and then post everywhere, wondering why it reboots every few minutes. Or they buy a small $40 case for a 3.4GHz Prescott and can't figure out why their aircooling just isn't working very well... Oh, and Welcome To OCC!!!
  16. It cost me $4.00 for a syringe of AS Ceramique, which is currently the best TIM on the market. I have performed better than 15 CPU installs with it so far, and there are at least 10 installs' worth left. And I bought two of them, so I may be set for another six months, at my present rate. Everything else looks okay, but I'd check out the Asus mainboards; they are all better than comparable Foxxconn boards. GL
  17. There is some benefit to be had from using the second HDD for the paging file space, too, since XP can access DX files and game info on the Virtual RAM simultaneously. I suggest you go for it--especially now that you have 1GB of DDR installed. I bet that upgrade helped!!
  18. Good advice. HL2 is extremely OC-sensitive...any HINT of instability will crash it.
  19. Way to go, AZ!! You will be much happier with that one, I know. Personally I use Mozilla Suite as it has e-mail and Composer, but Ff is a good standalone browser -- though it can act up from time to time for some reason, and need to be reinstalled. No matter. just Export your Favorites to a desktop file and reinstall it, then move everything back in and you are golden. And kiss those Drive-By Installs GOODBYE!!!
  20. That never works...OEM product keys are specific to the POS machines they come with and will not work with any other form of XP. HP System Restore CD's aren't worth two squirts of cold pee, so what I recommend is that you buy a 'no-media' XP SP2 License, since you already have the disk; that is far cheaper than buying the CD and license together. Trust me, the worst part of an OEM machine is the liberties they take when adding their proprietary crap to its operating system. GL!
  21. I imagine that by stripping a short length of insulation on both PSU's #13 & #14 leads and linking them with wire, you could achieve the desired effect of starting both simultaneously. If it didn't fry your MOBO first, that is... Seriously, though, that should work.
  22. As I said, my rig will do this if it isn't OCed slightly... "Chances are you will have to fiddle with your DDR voltage, speeds and timings to get everything copacetic in there... Try increasing the vDIMM a little, especially if it is set at 2.55v. You might also loosen the RAM timings to test that. If that doesn't help, try running MemTest on the sticks individually." Give that a try and tell us how it goes.
  23. fastvfr

    Ouch!

    Friends Don't Let Friends Mod Drunk.
  24. GF's rig... MY RIG... Both are extremely cool (mine has a 120mm blowhole mod and an extra 120mm front intake under the HDD cage) and both are very easy to work in!! They are less than $105, SHIPPED, from Directron. You just can't go wrong with a Thermaltake Case.
  25. What vid card was in the machine previously? Onboard or ATI? NVidia? If it wasn't using an onboard solution, DL and run Driver Cleaner (in Safe Mode) before ripping and reinstalling the Herc drivers. Worst case scenario, back up everything you need and reinstall your OS. GL!
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