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Everything posted by fastvfr

  1. All recent reviews show that nothing on the market works better than Arctic Silver Ceramique. This is supported by my own observations. And it costs $4 for a syringe that contains enough to do 30 or more CPU installs when applied correctly... Seriously, guy, you probably got a piece of grit or an eyelash in between the CPU and the cooler before. Either that or there was too much TIM, or there wasn't enough and there were bare spots. Whatever it was, I'm certain the TIM wasn't at fault. Glad you got it chilly now!!
  2. BTW, feel free to bookmark this link right here.... What an American.
  3. Also disable Spread Spectrum in the BIOS. That rig ought to ramp quite a bit further than that, unless that RAM was $22-a-stick Bargain Brand stuff.
  4. Yes; please post your components. If it is a more powerful graphics card with an auxilliary power lead, pull it out and then make sure it is firmly plugged in.
  5. Power down and reseat all the slotted cards and the RAM. It sounds like something came loose to me.
  6. This is easy. Do short the #13 PW-ON with a ground, then switch it to 230v and plug -er in. Do It Outside. Away from pets or any other flammables. There WILL BE SPARKS. But that PSU will never be any deader.
  7. I'd spend the extra $10 and get a good Xaser, myself. I have two and they are wonderful performers and very easy to work with, as well. This one's mine. This one houses the GF's rig. $103 each, shipping included, from www.directron.com. Oh, and Happy Birthday!
  8. The difference between mid- and top-end cards is the speed of the DDR that is used. The faster RAM makes up about 90% of the price increase and also allows the higher bandwidth of the more expensive cards. Since the cheaper cards do not have the pricey 1.8ns or faster DDR installed on them, when the GPU (or, in this case, the VPU) is told via its BIOS it has that feature, it usually chokes or at best will run at normal clocks. In essence, the card goes from being fast for the price to being somewhat crippled by slow texture memory. That is why I never flash a vid card's BIOS for any reason. It seldom gives you much more performance than a good OC would from the stock BIOS. And if it DOES happen to give an extra 3-5 FPS in games, or an extra 500 3DMark points, it normally takes a vastly-shortened lifespan in trade. Unless you spend the difference in price to the next higher card on aftermarket cooling mods, that is, but a DIY Ultra or XT is just that: jury-rigged and with voided warranty. So my advice has always been to sell the card, if you are not happy with it, and just go buy the one you really want outright. GL.
  9. Hmmm... My Xaser III Skull case has one 120mm high-CFM intake (though fairly quiet--it's on a Hardcano controller), two 80mm side intake fans, two 80mm rear exhauists in addition to the 120mm Antec fan, and a 120mm blowhole dead center in the top of the case. Here are a couple of screenshots to show just what a properly-vented case can do for your temps: These were taken just after (about 10 minutes after) a 3-hour HL2 marathon, in a 71F room. Max CPU temps I have been able to get with any burn-in program or Prime95 stress test have been 42C so far. And the temps reported by these two utilities are corroborated by the Asus PCProbe, my Hardcano's thermal probe, and the BIOS HW readings. So I'm guessing it's a pretty accurate reading.
  10. Sounds like you managed to dislodge your CPU. Remove the cooler, reseat the proc and reinstall the AS/cooler. That ought to sort it for you.
  11. If you can load them into Paint, it'll give you the option of saving them as jpegs. My suggestions would include a paint job, a 120mm lighted blowhole and a case window with two fans in it. You might also want to install a Hardcano; those look cool and work well on many levels. GL!!
  12. Dude, you didn't RTFM, did you?!? You just put the MOBO disk in the bootable CD drive. It has a copy of the original flash on it. Here's a tip: when you see that message, try hitting the Reset button on the case. If you see it again, hit it again. Sometimes it takes two or three reboots for the AI to get the message, but that's very unusual.... Personally, I'd reset the CMOS before trying any of this.
  13. The Asus P4P800SE is excellent, and though it uses the i865PE chipset it is nearly the equal of my MOBO. It is the best of the budget (~$80) SKT 478 boards out there. If he wants the best and can afford it, though, then he ought to go for the P4C800-E Deluxe. Since OC is not a concern, the P4P800SE is the one I would choose.
  14. Nope. It is a very shaky system board. A client brought one to me in a rig he just assembled....no amount of BIOS flashing, MOBO driver reinstalling, OS tweaking or RAM swapping would get it running solidly at even stock speeds. However, an Asus A8N-SLI worked wonders for his system...and I got an AGP vid card for cheep! Thank God he didn't get his from NewGag....they will exchange this POS only for another POS just like it!! That is always a bad sign.
  15. Most of those dual PIII boards are full ATX, about a foot square. They really aren't much good for games...what would you use such a system for?
  16. I use the Zalman C(omputer)N(oise)P(revention)S(ystem)7700-Cu...with no LED. It comes with mounts for every socket from 423 on and the FanMate II as well. At max turns it runs at less than 2000 RPM, so it is nearly silent even at max speed. Whoever told you that Zalman's are loud didn't know squat and I'd ignore him until he does. And they don't flash....they are like most any other LED fan, in that they glow. We want cooler CPU temps so we don't fry our babies! The lower the temps, the less thermal stress that is accrued and the more service we will get from our expensive components. With the 7000/7700 the fan blows air through the cooler's fins and it travels out across the MOBO cooling everything in its path. My 3GHz Prescott, apparently known to others as the Pres-Hott, idles at 27C and maxes out at 42C...which is normally cooler than their idle temps!! So, to recap: It is silent, far more efficient than Intel's stock cooler, DOESN'T flash, IS adjustable for speed, and it cools the entire mainboard. Now go tell your friend that he's full of what makes the grass grow green, if you would.
  17. If the songs aren't in some goofy proprietary format, then all you need to do is copy them off onto your HDD, put them into MP3 format if they are .wav's, and burn them with Nero's Audio CD function. Shouldn't be too tough.
  18. Sorry I didn't see this earlier, guy! He's an Australian Cattle Dog, AKA Blue Heeler.
  19. Two things to try: If they are jumpered as CS now, then try Master/Slave. Or vice versa. And if that doesn't help, try removing the optical drives and installing the 2nd HDD on the Master spot of the secondary IDE cable.
  20. Your PSU uses standard 12v fans, just like the ones in your case; any fan conrtoller will work. MY GF is running a 350w Truepower, which has been running a 2.4C/ 2x256MB/ 2 CD&DVD/ 2 HDD/ FX5500/ with 7 80mm and 90mm Thermaltake (and Antec LED) case fans for the last twelve hours. And it is just as cool as the wall behind it. So I am guessing that the fans in that PSU are either very dirty or stopped completely. Antec PSU's in particular run cool for me...and Enermaxes are a close second, just a little warmer than they are. The 480w Truepower in my sig rig is also barely warm to the touch... So you have got to look into that. And get more intake fans in that case pronto!!! Good luck.
  21. That poor 9200SE card, so embarrassed by its abysmal performance scores and embittered by the constant hoots of derision which always accompanied them opted to take its own life in a selfish act of electronic seppuku. Let us have a moment of silence for the poor, dead ATI card. NOT!!! Seriously, Alown, you're both better off now. Move on, and better luck next time. But get a card with a good warranty this time, please.
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