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Everything posted by czGLoRy

  1. okay, I really like your build and I am going to do pretty much exactly that, I think I am leaning towards 212 EVO is the only difference, and will probably order in the next two days. thanks
  2. I have used logitech MX550 and "performance" mice, and they both definitely suffered from "microlags" at times, I imagine the technology will get good enough in the near future that the difference between wired and wireless would be unnoticeable. I currently use a razer mamba, and I do notice a difference between wired/wireless.
  3. Located in Thailand. Only two reliable sites AFAIK: http://www.jedicool.com/pricelist.php http://www.invadeit.co.th/category/video-cards/sort/price/desc/ invadeit is a bit confusing to navigate, gotta mouse over the top left "InvadeIT products" to get to the computer hardware section. I appreciate it
  4. Hello, I am wanting to use a UPS for my setup if possible, to prevent any "brownouts" from cutting off my system and allow me to use it normally. I have tried to purchase two in the past, and both failed to work. It would be for a 30'' Samsung monitor, a router, internet modem, and a computer that would be using up to 850 watts, and probably an extension cable to hold all of this. Is this feasible? The only UPS choices I see here are from the company "APC" thanks
  5. Hello, I am looking to upgrade my system, possibly just scrapping all of it and making a new one; I don't know if its "worth it" and need some help deciding the best way to do this. Computer is old, and I definitely need to replace some parts, and I want to start using two seperate SSD boot drives. Budget of up to $2000 but less is obviously good. I know this is long, I truly appreciate any input. Parts are more expensive here, and the selection is pale. Performance is a priority, value is a close second. concerns: the power here is ungrounded, I am unsure if this is a problem, but perhaps this means I should be choosing something different for a PSU, and is it is really hot here.. Current Ambient temperatures are (in a CM stacker case) w/ zalman cooler + intel i7 920 processor run at 51-57*C / 122-134*F and gtx 295 GPU at 51*C/123*F at idle on stock settings. I would like to be able to do some modest overclocking straight away if possible, and heavier overclocking over time. I am a bit concerned about the temps here, already implementing some better than average cooling techniques and the temps are a bit hot at stock, especially under load. Parts I am considering keeping from current system: not really attached to any of the pieces and feel pretty much everything could use an upgrade, but what is worth it? and what I would like to upgrade to; I am looking for some value, I would like to be able to easily upgrade if possible (IE for 7950 graphics card I am looking for, I would like to eventually add crossfire when I need it, and for the i7 3770k I am considering, I would like to in time possibly add in better cooling, maybe water cooling, and overclock both the graphics card and processor more heavily to keep up). Current system: CM stacker case - no dust filters, it gets pretty dusty fast, and the temps aren't great. Intel i7 920 processor with Zalman cooler Mobo: need usb3.0, its out OCZ powerstream 700w power supply (3 years old) Kingston Hyper-X ram 16GB (2 sets of 4 GB, 1600mhz). I do heavy multitasking, I may want more and better ram drives: 1 TB WD, 120 GB Intel 320 SSD, 120 GB OCZ Vertex 3. I want to start using two different OS boot drives, so I will need more SSD and/or storage GPU: crashes on all games, so this is out for sure. OS: Thinking of using windows 8, security is a big issue for me (and can't use linux), seems more secure. I don't know if I can install it on two SSDs for use in the same computer or not, but I have a Win7 64b license already. Proposed build: ($1434 on pcpartpicker, $1792 IRL) http://pcpartpicker.com/p/LOPZ limited options, but open to pretty much any suggestion. Heavy multitasking, SSDs will be very helpful with the primary programs I am using, as well as more cores. Light gaming, SC2, Hitman, and BF3 are the most intensive games I can foresee wanting to play, but at high resolutions (2560*1600 on 30'''). Case: HAF XM ($148) + 2 200mm fans. don't mind spending more on a case that would be great and last forever, if it helps with temps over my stacker. Hotswap bays might come in handy with dual OS ssds Processor: intel I7 3770k processor ($355) cooler: CM Hyper 212 Evo ($41) or, if it might help me get a decent OC going now, TR - SILVER ARROW SB-E ($88) (plan on possibly upgrading this later to water) mobo: Asrock z77 Extreme 4 ($148) or Asus P8z77-v ($203) or Asus P8z77 V-pro ($241) GPU: GIGABYTE HD 7950 ($372) or GIGABYTE HD 7970 OC ($462) or XFX 7970 ($441) or Sapphire HD 7950 Vapor-X ($375) (I hear about problems with this one). I think I would prefer getting a 7970 GHZ for same price, or a 7870 LE Tahiti, but I don't beelieve those are available. I would like CF this card in the future when I need it, but my gaming is not too intensive. SSD: Only choices are OCZ, Intel, Plexor, and Kingston, and they are pretty expensive. HD speed and capacity will be pretty important for my 256 GB drive, less so for my others, again I am going to be dual booting with two different SSDs, so two SSDs will be holding operating systems and I am not sure the best way to do this. - 256 GB OCZ Vector for ($319) or OCZ VERTEX 4 for ($297) or Plexor M5M ($296) or Intel 520 for ($298). I am thinking one OS will have a boot SSD drive (one of my old ones) and this 256/240 for storage/applications, and the other will have the other old SSD, and 1 TB storage drive. Any better way to do this? RAM: G.skill 16 gb (2x8) DDR3 2133mhz RipJawsX ($172) or current ram Power supply: Will ungrounded electricity effect the best PSU choice? Current power supply: 700w, possibly could keep this until I get my 2nd card. a friend is selling a used (2 year old) Corsair HX850, I could make him an offer but I have no idea what its worth. IT does seem like a solid power supply other options are: Seasonic X-series gold 850w ($207), cooler master Silent Pro Gold 800w ($217), and cooler master silent pro m2 850w ($189) If I went the route of 2x 7970 a power supply calculator recommended 800 watts, for 7950x2 on crossfire it recommends 700. Total cost for first choices: $1792 . I feel like I am tossing out money if I replace a few of these parts, but I don't really know which I should be keeping, and which are worth replacing. Your input is very valuable to me!. thanks!
  6. im still having problems with the computer, its just crashing, black screen, have to force reboot, and I have tried everything I can think of to fix it--fail safe settings in bios, reseated the processor, reapplied the paste, cleaned it out thoroughly, ran all the tests I can think of. OCCT is saying my CPU core is getting way hot, but real time monitors are showing temps in the 40s-50s immediately before the crash. I actually got a PSU as well but it won't work at all.. im hopeless... anyone have any ideas of some tests I could run? I managed to run some video stress tests fine overnight without any problems, memtest is fine, OCCT shows hot proc but real time monitors show it at normal temps before crashing. My current plan is to take it into a shop and hand them a blank check, maybe replace one piece at a time...any better ideas are appreciated:)
  7. VLC, Paint.net or photoshop, Secunia PSI, MSE, F.LUX, , Flopzilla, Total Commander, Dropbox, Ultramon, Keepass apologies in advance to the person who says not to bump month old threads
  8. Avast, AVG free, and MSE are all great IME and any of them would do fine. Avast has gotten less annoying recently, although I have been having some problems with excluding some files from their protection.
  9. another vote here for open office.. it works perfectly and its free, it is compatible with MO documents as well
  10. I don't have another system to try the installation out on. Edit: It sounds like a problem with the DVD or a problem with the optical (DVD) drive to me, is what I meant to say. -It could be a problem with the drive. It was making a whirring noise yesterday, but it did work fine for a windows installation yesterday. 1.Turn on your computer so that Windows starts normally, insert the Windows 7 installation disc or USB flash drive, and then shut down your computer. 2.Restart your computer. 3.Press any key when prompted, and then follow the instructions that appear. -I would jump up in excitement if I saw the press any key prompt I do think my disk / drive are working but I am not positive. Cz - boot into your BIOS menu. Go to the boot option section. In there you'll have 4-6 options for boot devices / boot order. Disable ALL boot devices except for your CDROM drive (and I'm assuming that you mean your DVDROM drive). Reboot. Now your W7 installation disk should boot. Your hard drive will be visible, can be formatted and a fresh installation of Windows installed. This was a genius idea, I had not thought to disable all the other boot devices (I had even set 1-4 boot devices all being CD/DVD but I did not know there was a disable option). Unfortunately, it still gave me the "BOOT MGR is missing CTRL+ALT+DLT to restart" message. At some point in the future you might consider creating a bootable USB thumb drive with the W7 installation files on it. Much faster than reading from a disk -and I will definitely be doing this in the near future. I don't think I have any choice now but to take my computer to a repair shopl, don't know of anyone with a windows7 installation CD that is legit. I got the same error as well with my 32 bit CD, so perhaps it is my optical drive
  11. I haven't tried that no, but I fear that is no longer possible. wiped my windows installation and now when I try to boot via CD it just gives me a BOOTMGR is missing control+alt+delete to restart and I can't do anything.. I couldn't have really messed this up any worse
  12. Hello, I have been trying to reformat for a while with a frustrating problem. I am able to open the windows 7 (64bit) setup CD while running windows, but I cannot boot from it. The "press any key to boot from CD" prompt never appears. I am booting first from CD, then it boots straight to windows. I use F12 to select boot manager/boot from CD, it gives me the advanced options like system restore, etc, or boot from windows 7, but there are no options to setup windows, or wipe my partitions. I have three HDs, I tried to install windows on a seperate drive while inside of windows and it works fine, but I cannot wipe my other drives for a clean install now, windows is giving me the error message that the drive cannot be formatted/in use (whereI had my previous windows installation I would like to wipe now), even in safe mode. Now I have a mostly broken windows setup installed on two drives and neither can be formatted, what can I do? Thanks
  13. my CPU is at about 53C idle and goes up to 95C after 2 minutes load with OCCT even after cleaning+underclocking.. is it toast?
  14. can't buy things, try them, and return here like in the States. I have a pretty decent power supply as well so I am reluctant to purchase a better one. I think my problem might be my processor, OCCT psu test fails again after only 2 minutes when the processor reaches 95 degrees celcius. Idles at about 52 degrees as well even after cleaning it out and reattaching heatsink, and underclocking it.
  15. it is much cheaper to buy a PSU, a 1000 watt cheapo UPS is about $600 here. I still don't know whether the problem is my graphics card, PSU, grounded electricity (so i need a UPS) or processor. I guess only thing I am sure is not bad is the RAM =)
  16. Hey, I am looking at OCCT monitoring my system and I am left wondering what kind of power fluctuations are normal? My system has been crashing so I am trying to investigate the cause, and I am seeing a lot of small changes in real time: CPU VCORE from 0.93 - 1.23v, and VIN4 from 0.27v - 1.49v, and "CPU" from 0.93v - 1.23v I have done a search and I can't find any information on what is normal. This is with ungrounded electricity fwiw. I imagine the processor needs more power while running more intense programs etc, but while sitting IDLE what kind of voltage swings are acceptable? What about under stress? Thanks
  17. thanks for the replies. I think I am going to have to pick up a UPS now. Going to spend today cleaning the PC/heatsink/processor/running tests. I ran the furmark graphics test for 3 hours, computer didn't crash, and the temperatures looked OKAY, so I am actually thinking its not the graphics card now, but more likely something to do with the processor or power supply. I was really expecting my computer to crash while running the testing, walked away for a few hours, came back and it was going strong. Turned off FURMARK and walked away for a few hours letting it idle, and it was black screened >< This is really surprising to me, because by far the crashing happened most consistently while I was playing a graphic-intense game. I can't really ground the electricity, I don't own the house I am in and would be on my own, don't think it is worth it. If I did own my own house, I would find an electrician who would ground it (pretty hard to find here), or do it myself, although I know just about nothing about electricity.
  18. I have a gigabyte motherboard as well so I will try this updating the bios. I had no idea a UPS could also "stabilize" the electricity, if so that might be worth investing in for me. What type of voltages should I be looking at in the bios? on PCWIzard the "power supply monitoring" tab doesn't bring anything up but I will see if th at is something to do with the program. Here is what pcwizard / occt show while running the video stress test. 128 degrees on the SSD looks concerning... running OCCT power supply test I get the error "Core #0 over maximum value! Value reached: 89 max 85 thanks for all the helpful replies!
  19. I have had the computer for a couple of years, I don't have a clue whether it would degrade over time, would that be due to the ungrounded electricity? I could buy a UPS but the ones i have bought here were never enough to support my setup, and I think I would have to drop some serious cash to get one that would (I think at least $600). I don't have another computer to try the card out in unfortunately, but I think that is a good idea. I read that thread and downloaded/ran the OCCT 4.3.1 program and did a graphics error test, and it found about 500 million errors in an hour or so. I assume that is bad? going to try what you did, unhooking everything from the motherboard, underclcoking the card, and cleaning it out, and see if that helps. If not, and I can confirm the card is broken, I will just purchase a new card.
  20. Hey, not sure this is the root of the problem but I suspect it is, wondering if anyone has any insight on the issue. I have been getting pretty frequent computer crashes, and I suspect it has to do with nvidia gtx 295 graphics card, and/or it's drivers. If I am playing a game like starcraft 2, it will frequently "glitch" and I will here a short grinding noise, then the screen will go black and shut down. Diablo 3 was the same. I have tried older drivers as this was an issue with the card for some people, but I was still getting the issue. I have not played games lately, but yesterday I updated to the latest drivers, and while playing some videos/light games (not even full screen), my computer "snap" shut down five times over the course of the night. The screen just goes black, the case lights remain on, and I have to force shut down. Upon rebooting, it says computer did not shut down properly, but I get no other error messages. I suspect this is my graphics card-- but I live in Thailand, and the power here is shoddy. How could I tell if it is one thing or the other? FWIW the electricity is not grounded, and if I touch the case, or any USB adapter plugged into the case, it gives a mild shock. I don't think there is anything I can do about this. If it is my card, I don't mind buying a new one. Thanks for helping with my frustrating situation.
  21. I did reformat again after this, there was apparently a possible rootkit problem (from a clean format I guess??), I downloaded the kaspersky tool and ran that and it found some suspicious files, fixed it but same issue. I reformatted again wiping all my drives and I was able to check for windows updates, and downloaded the 140 or so updates. On installing the updates, it froze at "#9" update, and I left it on overnight. No progress. I forced reboot, and its "configuring windows updates.. 0%, do not turn off computer" for hours now already. I want to throw my computer in the bath tub at this time.. I have been having nonstop problems. Any ideas? It seems to me like maybe my hard drive is messing up, which is unfortunate as it is quite new.
  22. Had a power failure today on my system that was running fine. I start it up and windows failed to boot, wanted to run startup repair, I tried, and it did not detect a windows installation. I got some errors, and basically after trying several things decided to reboot (it was showing my windows partition as "0" size and was crashing launching the startup repair). I don't know how the power outage caused this, but electricity here is not grounded so maybe it caused some sort of hardware damage. I reformatted my drive and when I try to run windows Update, I get this error: Windows could not search for new udates. An error occured while checking for new updates on your computer. Code 80072EFE Google results are not helpful, mostly say wait. I downloaded the microsoft quick fix and it did nothing. This is a new installation on my hard drive, I deleted the previous partition and installed Windows and tried to update with no success. Any ideas? Having a host of problems on my computer lately that are making me want to pull out my hair. This is Windows 7 64 bit running off an SSD. Thanks for any response. Mark
  23. I don't have an oven but just a gas range, I am heating it up on medium heat and going to cook the graphics card for about 12 minutes and see whats up.
  24. 295 works fine except when running Starcraft 2, maybe any game, I haven't tried any others. I wouldn't be surprised if its dirty.. air duster is about $20/can here so I haven't cleaned it for a long time oven trick?
  25. there aren't any other sites I know of that are loading, the other major one seems to be broken right now. I would like to spend less than $350 ideally.
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