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About czGLoRy

  • Rank
  • Birthday 07/19/1988


  • [email protected]
  • Computer Specs
    CM stacker
    Gigabyte EX58-UD5
    Intel Core i7 920
    Nvidia GTX 295
    Intel 330 120 GB SSD
    OCZ Vertex 3 120 GB SSD
    Western Digital 1 TB
    Sound Blaster X-FI Xtreme Audio
    16 GB Kingston hyper-x 1600mhz RAM
    OCZ 700w PSU
    Geekdesk + 30'' Dell Monitor

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Chiang Mai, Thailand
  • Interests


  • Steam
  1. okay, I really like your build and I am going to do pretty much exactly that, I think I am leaning towards 212 EVO is the only difference, and will probably order in the next two days. thanks
  2. I have used logitech MX550 and "performance" mice, and they both definitely suffered from "microlags" at times, I imagine the technology will get good enough in the near future that the difference between wired and wireless would be unnoticeable. I currently use a razer mamba, and I do notice a difference between wired/wireless.
  3. Located in Thailand. Only two reliable sites AFAIK: http://www.jedicool.com/pricelist.php http://www.invadeit.co.th/category/video-cards/sort/price/desc/ invadeit is a bit confusing to navigate, gotta mouse over the top left "InvadeIT products" to get to the computer hardware section. I appreciate it
  4. Hello, I am wanting to use a UPS for my setup if possible, to prevent any "brownouts" from cutting off my system and allow me to use it normally. I have tried to purchase two in the past, and both failed to work. It would be for a 30'' Samsung monitor, a router, internet modem, and a computer that would be using up to 850 watts, and probably an extension cable to hold all of this. Is this feasible? The only UPS choices I see here are from the company "APC" thanks
  5. Hello, I am looking to upgrade my system, possibly just scrapping all of it and making a new one; I don't know if its "worth it" and need some help deciding the best way to do this. Computer is old, and I definitely need to replace some parts, and I want to start using two seperate SSD boot drives. Budget of up to $2000 but less is obviously good. I know this is long, I truly appreciate any input. Parts are more expensive here, and the selection is pale. Performance is a priority, value is a close second. concerns: the power here is ungrounded, I am unsure if this is a problem, but perhaps this means I should be choosing something different for a PSU, and is it is really hot here.. Current Ambient temperatures are (in a CM stacker case) w/ zalman cooler + intel i7 920 processor run at 51-57*C / 122-134*F and gtx 295 GPU at 51*C/123*F at idle on stock settings. I would like to be able to do some modest overclocking straight away if possible, and heavier overclocking over time. I am a bit concerned about the temps here, already implementing some better than average cooling techniques and the temps are a bit hot at stock, especially under load. Parts I am considering keeping from current system: not really attached to any of the pieces and feel pretty much everything could use an upgrade, but what is worth it? and what I would like to upgrade to; I am looking for some value, I would like to be able to easily upgrade if possible (IE for 7950 graphics card I am looking for, I would like to eventually add crossfire when I need it, and for the i7 3770k I am considering, I would like to in time possibly add in better cooling, maybe water cooling, and overclock both the graphics card and processor more heavily to keep up). Current system: CM stacker case - no dust filters, it gets pretty dusty fast, and the temps aren't great. Intel i7 920 processor with Zalman cooler Mobo: need usb3.0, its out OCZ powerstream 700w power supply (3 years old) Kingston Hyper-X ram 16GB (2 sets of 4 GB, 1600mhz). I do heavy multitasking, I may want more and better ram drives: 1 TB WD, 120 GB Intel 320 SSD, 120 GB OCZ Vertex 3. I want to start using two different OS boot drives, so I will need more SSD and/or storage GPU: crashes on all games, so this is out for sure. OS: Thinking of using windows 8, security is a big issue for me (and can't use linux), seems more secure. I don't know if I can install it on two SSDs for use in the same computer or not, but I have a Win7 64b license already. Proposed build: ($1434 on pcpartpicker, $1792 IRL) http://pcpartpicker.com/p/LOPZ limited options, but open to pretty much any suggestion. Heavy multitasking, SSDs will be very helpful with the primary programs I am using, as well as more cores. Light gaming, SC2, Hitman, and BF3 are the most intensive games I can foresee wanting to play, but at high resolutions (2560*1600 on 30'''). Case: HAF XM ($148) + 2 200mm fans. don't mind spending more on a case that would be great and last forever, if it helps with temps over my stacker. Hotswap bays might come in handy with dual OS ssds Processor: intel I7 3770k processor ($355) cooler: CM Hyper 212 Evo ($41) or, if it might help me get a decent OC going now, TR - SILVER ARROW SB-E ($88) (plan on possibly upgrading this later to water) mobo: Asrock z77 Extreme 4 ($148) or Asus P8z77-v ($203) or Asus P8z77 V-pro ($241) GPU: GIGABYTE HD 7950 ($372) or GIGABYTE HD 7970 OC ($462) or XFX 7970 ($441) or Sapphire HD 7950 Vapor-X ($375) (I hear about problems with this one). I think I would prefer getting a 7970 GHZ for same price, or a 7870 LE Tahiti, but I don't beelieve those are available. I would like CF this card in the future when I need it, but my gaming is not too intensive. SSD: Only choices are OCZ, Intel, Plexor, and Kingston, and they are pretty expensive. HD speed and capacity will be pretty important for my 256 GB drive, less so for my others, again I am going to be dual booting with two different SSDs, so two SSDs will be holding operating systems and I am not sure the best way to do this. - 256 GB OCZ Vector for ($319) or OCZ VERTEX 4 for ($297) or Plexor M5M ($296) or Intel 520 for ($298). I am thinking one OS will have a boot SSD drive (one of my old ones) and this 256/240 for storage/applications, and the other will have the other old SSD, and 1 TB storage drive. Any better way to do this? RAM: G.skill 16 gb (2x8) DDR3 2133mhz RipJawsX ($172) or current ram Power supply: Will ungrounded electricity effect the best PSU choice? Current power supply: 700w, possibly could keep this until I get my 2nd card. a friend is selling a used (2 year old) Corsair HX850, I could make him an offer but I have no idea what its worth. IT does seem like a solid power supply other options are: Seasonic X-series gold 850w ($207), cooler master Silent Pro Gold 800w ($217), and cooler master silent pro m2 850w ($189) If I went the route of 2x 7970 a power supply calculator recommended 800 watts, for 7950x2 on crossfire it recommends 700. Total cost for first choices: $1792 . I feel like I am tossing out money if I replace a few of these parts, but I don't really know which I should be keeping, and which are worth replacing. Your input is very valuable to me!. thanks!
  6. im still having problems with the computer, its just crashing, black screen, have to force reboot, and I have tried everything I can think of to fix it--fail safe settings in bios, reseated the processor, reapplied the paste, cleaned it out thoroughly, ran all the tests I can think of. OCCT is saying my CPU core is getting way hot, but real time monitors are showing temps in the 40s-50s immediately before the crash. I actually got a PSU as well but it won't work at all.. im hopeless... anyone have any ideas of some tests I could run? I managed to run some video stress tests fine overnight without any problems, memtest is fine, OCCT shows hot proc but real time monitors show it at normal temps before crashing. My current plan is to take it into a shop and hand them a blank check, maybe replace one piece at a time...any better ideas are appreciated:)
  7. VLC, Paint.net or photoshop, Secunia PSI, MSE, F.LUX, , Flopzilla, Total Commander, Dropbox, Ultramon, Keepass apologies in advance to the person who says not to bump month old threads
  8. Avast, AVG free, and MSE are all great IME and any of them would do fine. Avast has gotten less annoying recently, although I have been having some problems with excluding some files from their protection.
  9. another vote here for open office.. it works perfectly and its free, it is compatible with MO documents as well
  10. I don't have another system to try the installation out on. Edit: It sounds like a problem with the DVD or a problem with the optical (DVD) drive to me, is what I meant to say. -It could be a problem with the drive. It was making a whirring noise yesterday, but it did work fine for a windows installation yesterday. 1.Turn on your computer so that Windows starts normally, insert the Windows 7 installation disc or USB flash drive, and then shut down your computer. 2.Restart your computer. 3.Press any key when prompted, and then follow the instructions that appear. -I would jump up in excitement if I saw the press any key prompt I do think my disk / drive are working but I am not positive. Cz - boot into your BIOS menu. Go to the boot option section. In there you'll have 4-6 options for boot devices / boot order. Disable ALL boot devices except for your CDROM drive (and I'm assuming that you mean your DVDROM drive). Reboot. Now your W7 installation disk should boot. Your hard drive will be visible, can be formatted and a fresh installation of Windows installed. This was a genius idea, I had not thought to disable all the other boot devices (I had even set 1-4 boot devices all being CD/DVD but I did not know there was a disable option). Unfortunately, it still gave me the "BOOT MGR is missing CTRL+ALT+DLT to restart" message. At some point in the future you might consider creating a bootable USB thumb drive with the W7 installation files on it. Much faster than reading from a disk -and I will definitely be doing this in the near future. I don't think I have any choice now but to take my computer to a repair shopl, don't know of anyone with a windows7 installation CD that is legit. I got the same error as well with my 32 bit CD, so perhaps it is my optical drive
  11. I haven't tried that no, but I fear that is no longer possible. wiped my windows installation and now when I try to boot via CD it just gives me a BOOTMGR is missing control+alt+delete to restart and I can't do anything.. I couldn't have really messed this up any worse
  12. Hello, I have been trying to reformat for a while with a frustrating problem. I am able to open the windows 7 (64bit) setup CD while running windows, but I cannot boot from it. The "press any key to boot from CD" prompt never appears. I am booting first from CD, then it boots straight to windows. I use F12 to select boot manager/boot from CD, it gives me the advanced options like system restore, etc, or boot from windows 7, but there are no options to setup windows, or wipe my partitions. I have three HDs, I tried to install windows on a seperate drive while inside of windows and it works fine, but I cannot wipe my other drives for a clean install now, windows is giving me the error message that the drive cannot be formatted/in use (whereI had my previous windows installation I would like to wipe now), even in safe mode. Now I have a mostly broken windows setup installed on two drives and neither can be formatted, what can I do? Thanks
  13. my CPU is at about 53C idle and goes up to 95C after 2 minutes load with OCCT even after cleaning+underclocking.. is it toast?
  14. can't buy things, try them, and return here like in the States. I have a pretty decent power supply as well so I am reluctant to purchase a better one. I think my problem might be my processor, OCCT psu test fails again after only 2 minutes when the processor reaches 95 degrees celcius. Idles at about 52 degrees as well even after cleaning it out and reattaching heatsink, and underclocking it.
  15. it is much cheaper to buy a PSU, a 1000 watt cheapo UPS is about $600 here. I still don't know whether the problem is my graphics card, PSU, grounded electricity (so i need a UPS) or processor. I guess only thing I am sure is not bad is the RAM =)
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