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Everything posted by Kash

  1. Kash

    Occ New Guy

    Nobody told the guy not to touch the llamas! And I would also like to agree with the guy that OCC seems to have the best forums out there. The people here are a lot more mature (generally) and MUCH more knowledgeable about various topics, including those not related to computers and technology. Let's hope we continue this trend (knocks on wood).
  2. Kinda off topic, but I noticed something really weird a week ago on a road trip down south (I'm from NJ). In Pennsylvania, on Rt. 81, I saw a bunch of signs one after another that were similar to AMDs core names. They started with Barton, then continued on to Newcastle, and finally, Winchester. It was just a bit odd to see these names one after another on highway signs out in the middle of nowhere.
  3. You think that's bad? I LIVE in Edison, NJ. Newegg has a distibution center here AND FedEx has a delivery center. Yet I still see them sending my stuff from Edison to Newark, waiting another day, and then they send it BACK to Edison, and then I have to wait till 4:30 (the latest possible time FedEx delivers) to get my stuff. The FedEx delivery center is literally 10 minutes from my house, yet it still takes 2 to 3 days to get something from Newegg's Edison distribution center. Of course, I shouldn't be complaining. There have been several occasions where I've ordered stuff late on a Wednesday night and I still got it on Friday even though the estimated delivery time was the following Monday. Plus, they're still a lot better than UPS, who take AT LEAST 4 or 5 days to get anything delivered. I remember ordering something from a website that shipped via UPS on a Friday and ordering something from Newegg on a Wednesday. The Newegg order came a day before the UPS one did, even though I placed the order 3 business days later! Oh yea, I hate how FedEx just leaves my stuff at the door without ringing a doorbell or anything. At least with UPS, they confirm delivery with a signature, or place a note telling you where they left the package (if they did). FedEx jus leaves the package and MAYBE will ring the doorbell. I remember waiting for a package (I was home all day). In the morning, the tracking site said the package was on "vehicle for delivery". I still hadn't gotten anything by 5 PM, so I decided to check the website. It said the package was delivered around 3:30. Now, I was home all day and I didn't hear the doorbell ring or the door being knocked. Also, my brother and sister were also home and downstairs, so it was impossible for anybody to miss a doorbeel or knock. I decided to check around the house, and lo and behold, it was sitting on my side door. I wasn't too worried since it was only a keyboard and a 50-pack of blank cds, but what if it had been a new $500 vid card or processor? The box also said Newegg really nice and big on it, so any idiot who knows what Newegg is could just pick up the box and get something techy for free!
  4. I love how people fall prey to such propaganda. Aluminum cases do NOT release heat 3 times faster than steel cases. It's true that aluminum has better thermal conducting properties than steel, but that alone does not cool a system better. In order for any metal to conduct heat, it must actually be in contact with the heat producing object in one form or another (direct touch, heatpipes, waterpipes to radiator). However, no case is directly in contact with every heat producing part within the computer (except for Zalman's noise-free case, where the case is a giant heatsink). We all know that air is a poor conductor of heat (hence why we put thermal grease on a CPU). So it would be impossible for an aluminum case to conduct heat better than a steel case. If it did, then the entire case would be very warm (even hot) to the touch. Most cases are generally warm toward the back and top, where the PSU resides (or bottom and back, if the case is designed that way). There have been a variety of sites that have tested this concept and found that aluminum cases (even those identical to their steel versions) do not release the case/processor faster than a steel case. The only reason aluminum cases may seem to cool a system better than a steel case is because it is much easier to manipulate aluminum than steel. This way, a case that allows for more airflow can be designed with much more ease and less cost to the manufacturer. So in effect, the aluminum itself does not cool a system better, but the design of the case does.
  5. I had a similar problem on a SFF box I built for my brother. I put a Sempron 2200 with PC2700 RAM, and the FSB was stuck at 100 MHz, and I knew it should be at least 166. When I tried to change it, it would only allow me to increase it to 132 MHz. Also, Windows told me that it was simply an Athlon processor at 900 MHz, when the Sempron was rated at 1.5 GHz. I then looked at the manual more in depth, and found that there was indeed a jumper that would allow me to change the starting FSB to the following speeds: 100 MHz, 133 MHz, 166 MHz, and 200 MHz. I simply switched the jumpers around and the computer booted to 166 MHz. Windows recognized a Sempron 2200 and PC2700 RAM. This computer used a Via chipset and it came out pretty recently (2 or 3 months ago). So I'm guessing that if you look through your manual, you might find something regarding this.
  6. I'm not telling the guy to buy Vantec Tornados. I use the Stealth ones from Vantec (~ 21 dba) and they do great. Plus, I also recommended a fan controller in case he wishes to keep noise levels down whenever he so wishes. Keep in mind that the decrease in temp that you saw could also be atttributed to the (possible) change in airflow within the case (possibly due to minor design changes) rather than the material. In order for a case to actually remove heat, it must first absorb it. Since air is such a poor conductor of heat, the case won't absorb it from the air (if that was the case, you would have a case very hot to the touch). Since no hot part actually touches the case, it can't draw heat away, hence, it doesn't cool any better than a steel case. There is a big difference in memory when it comes to AMD compared to Intel. In the past (and on current P4 chipsets), the memory controller resides on the motherboard itself (I think it's the southboard chip, but I could be wrong). However, for the AMD64, the memory controller resides on the processor itself. In the past, the memory latencies weren't very important since memory could only go as fast as the bus speed. Now with the controller residing on the processor, it can (theoretically) go as fast as the processor speed. This is why higher speed RAM is preferred for overclocking, since it can take the increase in FSB (or HT, in this matter). The lower latencies increase the speed the processor can access the information on the RAM. I can tell you for a fact that when I went from a Athlon XP 2800 (OCed to 2.4 GHz) with slow Kingston RAM to an AMD 64 3200 (OCed to 2.3 GHz) with OCZ RAM at 2-3-2-5 timings, there was a significant increase in not only benchmarks, but also in practical, everyday use. Also keep in mind that socket 939 is capable of dual-channel RAM, so that also increases throughput by twice as much, which also increases performance. Your comment on how drives usually wear out long before they are outdated is not really correct. I still have an old 20 GB Seagate drive from 4 to 5 years ago that still works to this day. I use it for backup purposes in case anything goes wrong with the drive in my current system. Recently, one of my WD drives died on me about a year and a half after I bought it, and I had a 3 year warranty on it. I RMAed the drive and got a replacement in a matter of days. Now, had I gone with Maxtor, I would have had to buy a brand new drive since my warranty would have been over. It's true that many people never use their warranties (I myself rarely have needed to use them), but it's nice to have it in case of situations like mine. Plus, you're more likely to replace a hard drive with a bigger one in 3 to 5 years than in 1 year, so that's also another reason to get a drive with the longer warranty.
  7. First off, good call sticking with AMD. You can find some really good AMD coolers out there, including ones from Thermalright and Swiftech. I personally use the Thermalright XP-90, and it works great for me. Also, the stock HSF wasn't that bad either, so if you're not going to overclock his rig, then you can keep the stock HSF (if you want to reduce noise, then you might want to change the HSF). Make sure you get RAM with good timings. Corsair and OCZ make some great DDR-400 (PC-3200) sticks at timings of 2-2-2-5. If you want to overclock, get faster RAM, like DDR-433 or DDR-466 (PC-3500 and PC-3700, respectively). Obviously, don't go for anything less than 1 GB of RAM. There are plenty of cases out there. Just find a bunch that you think would suit his taste (and match the monitor) and show them to him. He can pick one and you'll be set. BTW, the whole aluminum is better at thermal conductivity than steel is just a myth. The main benefits to an aluminum case are that they are lighter compared to steel, and they are much easier to mod. Oh, btw, most people don't need much more than a midtower case. Full tower cases are usually a waste of space unless you're into watercooling, massive mods, or if you have server applications. Plus, midtower cases are generally cheaper than towers, and there is a lot more variety. There are plenty of good motherboards out there for AMD processors. If you're going with socket 754, DFI and ASUS make great boards. If you're going with 939 (recommended), then Abit and ASUS make some great boards. Most boards come with onboard sound, so you're set there. One of the main differences that sets the boards apart is their stability when overclocked. If you're overclocking, read some reviews on the boards before buying to find out overclocking potential. If not, then most of the boards offered by Abit and ASUS work very well at stock speeds. Two 80 gigs should be fine for most people. Since Maxtor is your personal choice, then you should go for it. However, keep in mind that Seagate has a 5 year warranty compared to Maxtor's 1 year. As for optical drives, you can go for a good DVD burner from Plextor or NEC. Plextor is a bit on the pricier side. You should also get a second drive (DVD-ROM) in case he wants to copy CDs/DVDs. Another note, when you're looking at cases, make sure you look at the cooling capabilities. If the case has room for 5 fans, but it only comes with 1, it might be a good idea to get him 1 or 2 to help cool the case. If you want to get more, then I might suggest getting a fan controller so he can lower the volume if he so wishes. Other than that, good luck on the build.
  8. You have to keep in mind that retail stores sell media for A LOT more than online stores. For example, at Compusa, you can find a 50 pack of 4x/8x DVD-R media for $39.99. When you combine two of them, that makes $79.98, not far from the $80.00 that Circuit City charges. This isn't something new, of course. If you look at CD-R prices, they've always been higher at retail outlets than online. Compusa's most expensive brand costs more than $30, but the highest price at Newegg is $25. Of course, most people get the ones that cost in the $10 to $15 range, but the point is that those price ranges are hard to find at retail stores. You have to keep in mind that these stores have operating costs that online stores dont, so they need the higher markup on pretty much everything. These prices may look ridiculous for us, but most non-comp savvy people will find DVD-Rs at $40 a bargain.
  9. Found this on an Intel Hyperthreading review "Processors with HyperThreading enabled are recognised as two physical CPUs by the operational system, hence, only those system that support SMP configurations will also be able to support the HyperThreading technology. Intel itself recommends to use either Microsoft Windows XP Professional, or Linux OSs with the upcoming Pentium 4 chips. Definitely, the newcomers will be able to work under Windows 2000 as well, however, there will be no sense to use the CPUs with HyperThreading in Windows ME or Windows 98 systems." "According to Intel, the HyperThreading utilizes one physical and one "logical" processor and this is supported by Windows XP Home Edition. This also has been confirmed by Microsoft" So I'm guessing that you're fine.
  10. Oh right, sorry, I didn't read all the details. This is one that supports RAID Link Now, with SATA drives, each drive gets it's own channel, and you're not allowed to put more than one drive on that channel. With PATA, you're allowed to put up to two drives per channel. However, with a RAID configuration, it works a bit differently. If you only have two drives, you should put each drive on a separate channel, both set to Master. Now if you decide to use four drives, then you would use two drives per channel, one set to Master, and the other to Slave. One really important note. You said that you're only getting ONE of the 160GB drives. Now, with RAID, the two drives should be equal size, because the array sets up according to the smallest drive. If you have a 40GB and a 160GB, the array will only use 40GB of the 160GB drive. Also, the speed of the array is also directly related to the speed of the slowest drive. So if you have a 5400 RPM drive, the RAID array will force the faster 7200 RPM drive to run at 5400 RPM. There's a comprehensive guide to RAID arrays at PCMech.com RAID Guide
  11. The 53 number is MegaBITS per second. Now, when you convert it to the number normal human being use, MegaBYTES per second, you get 6.625. Since 8 bits = 1 byte, you have to divide any Mbit number by 8 to get Mbyte. It's pretty much a marketing tool cuz a lot of people dont realize they're advertising bits and not bytes. Think of it as if you were downloading something. Download speeds are also in bits. So when you're downloading at say 600 kb/s, you're actually downloading at 75 kB/s.
  12. In order to run two ATA drives in a RAID configuration on a mobo that doesn't support onboard RAID, you would have to buy a special PCI RAID controller. Promise usually makes pretty good ones. Promise RAID Controller The two drives you're looking at are exactly the same, except for the fact that one is an OEM drive and the other comes in a Retail box. If you want to pay a few more dollars for some "security software" then go ahead and buy the retail. Most people buy the OEM drives since it still has the warranty of the retail. Also, this way people can buy their own cables.
  13. My current setup has an 80GB (PATA) and a 120GB (PATA) hd. I wanna add some more hard drives to get up to around half a tera. Now my case only has room for 3 more drives, and I wanted to get SATA drives. I know that I can run two 80GB drives in a RAID configuration. I would then use the SATA drives for my OS and the 200GB in the PATA drives as storage space. Now, to get to half a tera, I want to add a 160GB SATA drive, putting me at 520GB. My mobo allows me to connect 4 SATA drives. I've always read people putting SATA drives in RAID configurations. My question is whether I would be allowed to run the two 80GB SATA drives in a RAID configuration, and run the single 160GB SATA drive by itself. Also, I shouldn't have to worry about the PATA drives booting rather than the SATA drives, right? If I decide to install another OS later on, would I be able to install it on one of the PATA drives and have it bootable? Sorry for all the questions, but I've never touched SATA before, and I would like to know my options before I buy anything, cuz if I can't run it the way I want, I would have to buy larger SATA drives, which I don't wanna do cuz I like having secondary drives for storage cuz in my experience, it's a good and easy way to backup my stuff and not have it all disappear if my main hd decides to die on me (jus had this experience recently, and my 120GB drive had everything I needed perfectly safe)
  14. Stacked, I have the same mobo Area51 does, and MBM5 doesn't have DFI's board listed. However, the driver cd the mobo came with has a monitoring program that you can use to monitor temps. As for Sandra reporting such a low temp, I found that it was actually reading the sensor for the case temp rather than the CPU temp. When you use some of the other modules in Sandra, it'll tell u that ur case temp is much higher than your cpu temp. Compare these numbers to the DFI monitoring program, and it'll be the other way around, or close enough to it. BTW, the Kool and Quiet thing is pretty much a thermal throttling option. If you want to OC, then you want this option turned OFF. It'll force your CPU to slow down if it gets past a certain temp (i think ~50C)
  15. There are plenty of guides on the Internet on how to build your own computer. With a little bit of research (and tips from the forum guys), you can be up and running within a matter of 2 to 3 hours. I remember my first build. I had a Dell for a few years, and when time came to upgrade, I decided to try my hand at building it myself. I used the following site http://www.pcmech.com/byopc/index.htm and I was pretty much set. It took me about 1 or 2 hours just to get everything into the case, and another hour later, I had my hard drive partitioned and Windows installed. I didn't know anything about burning in the parts, so I just went along and setup Windows as I liked it, left the computer on overnight, and I was pretty much set for about 2 years till my next build.
  16. I also had the same problem. I couldn't get the HTT frequency past 212 MHz, which would keep me stuck at 2.3 GHz, only a 100 MHz OC. I found that loosening the memory timings help the OC a lot. I have OCZ EL Edition PC-3200 RAM with timings of 2-3-2-5, which is relatively tight. Once I loosened the timings to somewhere around 2.5-3-3-8 or 2.5-3-3-10, I could get the HTT frequency up to 230 MHz. With an 11x multiplier, that gave me a clock speed of 2.5 GHz, a good 300 MHz OC over stock. If that doesn't work, you should see if ur mobo allows you to change the HTT multiplier down to 3x or 4x
  17. It's true that Intel has dual core processors in the works. The first revision of these processors will contain P4 cores with slower clock speeds, which makes sense since it'll allow for easy expandibility with existing architecture, and allow for lower thermal output. However, Intel dual core will not "own" AMD's line of processors since AMD also has a dual core project in the works. In fact, it has been speculated that AMD has already released preliminary specs for these new set of processors. It is also possible that AMD might come out with dual core processors prior to Intel's offering, and they might do it better. This has been proved several times already. AMD released a 64 bit architecture that was more quickly implemented compared to Intel's Itanium architecture. AMD also managed to control the thermal output on their Winchester 90nm processors compared to Intel's Prescott, known for it's high thermal output. Keep in mind that a lot of this is still speculation and it is possible that the dual core information may just be rumors. I am not an expert on the subject, I'm only stating what I have heard myself. I would post some links, but it has been a while since I read this information. Therefore, it may be possible that this information may have changed since last I checked.
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