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Ornlu

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  1. Yeah, I was a fraid that's what was happening.. Resonance is annoying. But I still want to reduce the vibrations transmitted.. So i figure I'll jsut try it. The sub is extremely tight and musical, it's less of a home theater sub, although it can drop into the low 20's no problem.
  2. It's not that... It's got a rubber seal and is air tight.., and the sub can handle extremely high currents I'm not even touching the excursion limitations. the sounds aren't coming from the sub, that's completely silent (mechanically). The sounds are coming from inside the floor behind the wall that the sub is 1 foot away from. Right now it's on a towel folded 4x, it's not bad.. I'd just rather isolate the sub from room vibrations entirely. And I don't think the wood will make more noise with a highly dampening material (bungie cord) inbetween it and the enclosure than the wood of the enclosure Directly on a tile floor.. Let's use common sense atleast. The vibrations are minimal and only emphasized by the fact that the whole thing weighs a hefty 65 lbs.. So every bit of that vibration is translated directly into the floor. Just to clarify, the sub enclosure will rest on the bungie cords ONLY it will not touch the wood of the bottom base shown in the pic above. So all vibrations will be translated to the bungie cords, with minimal vibrations being transfered to the wooden base.
  3. I don't see how it would mess up the transient response of the sub, The cone movement is of so little mass that it does not displace the near 60 lbs of the box in a horizontal motion parallel to cone movement. Most vibrations are unrelated to accoustical output and more related to mechanical vibrations of the structures resistance to the driver moving. the transient response shouldn't change as the accoustics of the box itself remain identical. It's like holding the sub in the air.. instead of mechanical energy being lost to the floor in the form of unwanted vibratings it's lost to bungie cords... There's really no difference. It's not like the cone's going to stay in one place and the box is going to move back and forth on the cords... Edit: The vibrations aren't due to the box's structural integrity. It's double braced inside and has a double thick front. It's sealed too, air tight. The vibrations only occur at > 105 ish db output Big explosions in movies.. the few instances when I have it turned way up. The vibrations only become AUDIBLE at this point. And it's not the box making noise but beams under the floor that aren't braced properly and are bothered by the small vibrations present when the box hits 100 dbs and up at 20-30 hz. I'd rather have these vibrations only be in the air than in the floor as well. Which might not be possible.. it might just be the waves themselves causing the vibrations. But I figure this should help. To sum it up, it's not a problem of the box as there is absolutely NO noise except for the bass if I'm holding it up in my hands. Which is quite the task.. lol..
  4. Ok, well I built a subwoofer enclosure recently and one of the only problems is my tile floor.. the sub doesn't like sitting on it.. And I'm too cheap to buy spikes / want to try my own solution. Basically, think those long cables used to tie crap down on the car roof... bungie cables or however it's spelled. Think it will work better ot worse than spikes? The whole sub (1.85 cubic foot exterior would basically just sit on that) It'd be pretty easy to build.. I have so much extra MDF sitting here..
  5. What amplifier is that markie. I like the look =).
  6. Hrmm, you'd have to check if your amp can handle a 2 ohm load. Don't want to fry it. you could always wire it for 8, but you'd probably need a lot more power.
  7. You might, but it's not going to hurt the sub. If it doesn't sound that great try moving it around the room. if it's still not working for you just put the old one back... One thing you do have to be careful of is the OHM rating on the sub, what's the resistance? 1 ohm 2 ohm 4 ohm? I know a lot of people run their kickers at 1 ohm. Your stereo might not be able to handle 1 ohm of resistance, this can do damage to the equipment.
  8. Absolutely. The only difference between car subwoofers and home audio subwoofers is that car subs are A) usually more rugged B) sometimes distort more, but that just depends on the sub... some do, some don't. and C) have box parameters designed for car-gain.
  9. Same way you'd use any unpowered speaker in any system. Get a 120v amplifier for it and plug it into the wall =). Or get a plate amp and fit it to the box. A car sub is no different from any regular subwoofer.
  10. I agree that they don't sound that great.. They're muddy... no high end. They probably won't sound as good as sennheisers. Realtek onboard's definitely not helping it though.
  11. Suprisingly, no. The sheer weight of the sub+box (about 60-65 lbs) keeps it in place nicely. Hmm, I think it just needs more light to get its auto focus going properly. I added another pic, it came out better.
  12. It's a 10" Phoenix Gold Xenon x10d2. A very tight musical sub. Anything bigger would have needed a rediculous box to get a nice flat response. And about the focusing, yeah, my camera just has trouble with incadescent lights. It's annoying.
  13. Sorry for the blurriness of the pic, i couldn't get it focussed for some reason. http://forums.overclockersclub.com/Subwoof...ics-t53428.html That post contains the original project / in progress pics. Update - put it in a big stack for now until I can get some spikes for the top sub, it was transfering too much vibration into the floor, probably because of the weight.
  14. Did you completely remove the old driver before installing the new one? uninstall the product and remove all creative entries from the registry / uninstall software. then try again. For better sound quality do all this then install the KX audio driver (google it) or PAX audio driver. KX if you listen to music, PAX if you game. If you listen to music get the Upsampling fix on the winamp site. http://winamp.com/plugins/details.php?id=144826 It fixes the scaling issue that the DAC's on the audigy 2 series have.
  15. I wish I still had a screenshot, but way back in the day my Thunderbird 1400 was clocked at 1337 mhz =). I was happy about that.
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